Guide Book and Standard, 1926 (2024)

The American Rabbit
Cavy Breeders Association
PRICE $3.00
Copies of This Book Can Be Secured by Mailing Above Amount to
A. WEYGANDT, Secretary
7408 Normal Ave.CHICAGO, ILL., U. S. A.
This book is published for the benefit of the members of our association and we hope you appreciate it and our efforts will not be in vain.
A book of this kind like our leading journals and newspapers cannot be made to suit all individuals for some prefer the “Sporting Page” others the “Society News” etc., but in publishing this book our object is to please the big majority of our members and believe we are successfully doing so.
We believe each member is entitled to a Look of this kind with his membership and while some information will not he of much interest to the Old Breeder we must bear in mind that we have many new members who will be benefitted by the simple instructions on breeding, care etc., and thus may be the means of starting them on the road to success.
We thank all who have given their support in the
publishing of this book as your good work is appreciated.
Very truly yours
The Officers

Associations Holding Charter with the A. R. & C. B. A._........-36
Breeding and Care of Rabbits ....................... ..........-.57
Breeding Cavies ..........................................—.... 99
Breeds of Rabbits ——...----------——----------------------------— 38
Cavy Standards ---------— —--------------——-------------------- 179
Constitution and By-Laws ...................-...-...— --------- 20
Diseases of Rabbits.......—.......... ..........- -- ----- 81
Feeding Rabbits .......... —.............-------------...... 65
Housing Cavies ----------- -.—..................—...----------- - 103
Housing Rabbits .............................— -----------—....68
Judges, List of —....... ....-...-.................. .......... 35
Membership List -----------—— -------------------- ---------- 116
Mice Farming......................- ............-.... .........- 113
Minutes of Annual Convention held Nov. 30th-Dec. 5th, 1925-6
Official Show Rules ..... . -.——.......—..-.......- -..—..... 27
Officers of the Association — ------------------— —— ---------- 5
Our Advertisers .............—..............-...—.............. 185
Rabbit Meat—Cooking and Canning __— ----------------------—----83
Rabbit Skins—Dressing and Tanning -------——---------——.......... 94
Rabbit Standards ---—---------------------—--------- 144
Ranching Fur Bearing Animals ................................... 105
Rat Farming ......................—......112
Registration Department—Rules For ........................ 26
Registrars—Instructions to...............— —............. -.-30
Registrars—List of — ------------------------------------- 34
Skinning and Dressing Rabbits ............................—.... 89
Specialty Clubs . .......................----------------------115
The American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association.....4
The A. R. & C. B. A. Registration System__________________ 32
The Cavy Industry __________________________—------------------95
The Chinchilla Animal (Langeri) ____________—_................. 111
What We Are Doing for the Breeders
A Central Bureau of Information for the Breeders: We maintain a bureau of Information for the benefits of all interested in our industry and in this manner get many interested and started into the Breeding of Rabbits, Cavies, etc. These beginners must purchase stock and in this manner the present Breeders who have stock to sell are benefitted.
A Registration System: We maintain a Registration System whereby you can have your Rabbits registered and a correct record kept of each animal indefinitely. We also have a staff of competent Registrars scattered throughout the country to handle this important work for the Breeders.
A Staff of Expert Judges: We also maintain a staff of expert Judges of Rabbits and Cavies to judge shows so the Breeder will know his stock is judged according to our Standard of Perfection when he sends his stock where one of these Licensed Judges are officiating.
We Revise and Make Standards: We revise and make new Standards from time to time covering all breeds of Rabbits and Cavies to guide the breeders in producing thoroughbred stock and a copy is furnished Free to Each member.
Markets for Meat Rabbits: We locate markets for meat Rabbits all over the U. S. and Canada and advise many new beginners daily where they can dispose of their meat rabbits.
Markets for Cavies: We have advised many the past year where they could dispose of their Cavies and while we advise all who can to build up a local market of their own in order to secure better prices but some are unable to do this and we are glad to help out when ever possible to do so.
Market for Rabbit Skins: We have a Special Representative, Mr. Kenneth P. Button. 65 Highland Parkway, Rochester, N. Y., who will maintain a receiving station in New York City, and will accept all rabbit skins forwarded to him and secure for you the best prices obtainable for same. Write him direct.
This Up to Date Rabbit Book and Standard Free: This book is furnished you free and I believe you will admit it is well worth the membership fee. We believe in giving our members full value for their money.
Edwin H. Stahl, Vice-Pres Holmes Park. Mo.
Ellis L. DeLancey, Pres. York. Pennsylvania
A. Weygandt. Sec. 7409 Normal Avc. Chicago, III.
H. B. Swalley, Director Nebraska City, Neb.
W. H. Blair Chairman of Board Lamoni. Iowa
Miss N. M. Flaherty, Treas. 3024 Calumet Ave. Chicago. Ill.
Lewis S. J. Griffin, Director 812 E. Costello St. Colorado Springs, Colo.
Mrs. F. N. Leach. Director 88 Spring St. Stoneham. Mass.
John C. Fehr. Director 1302 Woodlawn Ave. Indianapolis, Ind.
The 1925 convention of the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders association and affiliated specialty clubs held at Colorado Springs November 20 to December 5 was one of the best conventions ever held by the association in the way of constructive work being performed. One of the greatest pieces of business was the organization of a central receiving station for the raw pelts. This station will be in charge of Kenneth P. Button, Rochester, N. Y. Mr. Button is a hard worker and he expects to make this receiving station a success. To do this, however, he must have the whole-hearted support and cooperation of every breeder.
Another important piece of legislation was that of the New Zealand Federation when they discontinued their registration system and wholeheartedly endorsed the registration system of the American.
This is the first convention on record where we have had the national judges together. The judging at this convention was done by John C. Fehr, Indianapolis, Ind.; H. K. Carter, Tacoma, Wash.; Lewis Salisbury, Pasadena, Calif.; Oscar F. Schuktz, Norwalk, Conn.; Carl M. Frey, Pueblo, Colo.; Reed Storms, Welborn, Kan.; Marion Stoner, Wichita, Kan.; and Lewis S. J. Griffin, Colorado Springs, Colo.
Another point of great importance was that there were sixteen states represented by delegates as follows: Missouri 6, Iowa 1, Illinois 6, Pennsylvania 1, Washington 2, Indiana 1, California 3, Ohio 3, Connecticut 1, New York 1, Texas 1, Utah 2, Kansas 2, District of Columbia 1, Wisconsin 1, Colorado 101.
Mr. D. Monroe Green with the Biological Survey attended all the sessions and gave some helpful talks on what his department was contemplating in the way of survey and experiments on the Government experimental farm at Saratoga Springs, N. Y. We have been after government recognition for several years. The government is now taking an active interest in our industry and it is up to every one of us to help them out in their surveys and experimental work. If you should be asked to help in any of this work do so gladly as you will be helping yourself as well as the industry at large. Mr. Green left Colorado Springs in company with Secretary Weygandt for a tour of the Pacific coast investigating conditions out there and to get all the ideas he can that will be helpful in successfully carrying on their work at the experimental farm.
The Colorado Springs breeders have always had the reputation of doing things right and this year was no exception. The show room was ideal and while a little crowded for room everything went off successfully. All awards were paid before the show was over, which made quite a hit with the breeders.
Tuesday night was the big banquet served at the First Baptist church. The banquet was a wonderful stimulus for the business sessions that followed and started the week out right. The banquet was a real treat and the menu above anything ever served at any banquet before. Lewis S. J. Griffin acted as toastmaster of the interesting program that was provided.
The Colorado Springs breeders have the thanks of every breeder in attendance for the wonderful time shown them and we trust we may have the pleasure of returning to Colorado Springs some time in the future with the convention show.
Space will not permit of a detailed writeup of the various interesting sidelights of the convention as we are going to publish the convention minutes in full as well as the awards. Following will be found the minutes of the American as well as the specialty clubs:
Roll Call of Members Attending A. R. & C. B. Association Convention, Colorado Springs, 1925.
L. W. Milks, 1412 East Eighth street, Pueblo, Colo.
H.W, Platt, 1102 Euclid, Pueblo.
Mrs. H. W. Platt, 1102 Euclid, Pueblo.
Ed. S. Fowler, 612½ N. Main, Pueblo.
Mrs. T. Burnett, 612½ N. Main, Pueblo.
J. S. Bales, R. F. D. 9, Springfield, Ill.
H. C. Foltz, 516 Sippo St., Massillon, O.
W. B. Garland, North Canton, Ohio.
Mrs. W. B. Garland, North Canton.
Mr. and Mrs. C. R. Barrow, 417 N. Colorado St., Kansas City, Mo. Lewis S. J. Griffin, 812 East Costella, Colorado Springs, Colo.
Miss L. Griffin, 812 E. Costella, Colorado Springs.
Mr. and Mrs. R. W. Carlton, 2014 St. Clair, Pueblo
O.P. Jenson, 530 N. Nevada Ave., Colorado Springs.
Marion Summers, 1615 W. Pikes Peak Ave., Colorado Springs.
J. M. Kilgore, 1520 Cuchres, Colorado Springs.
Geo. H. Gillespie, 516 N. Cooper Ave., Colorado Springs.
C. P. Sharp, 409 Acero St., Pueblo.
Chas. E. Young, 3926 Tennyson St., Denver, Colo.
R.G. Finley, 1317 Benton St., Edgewater, Colo.
J. Kennedy 3513 Quitman, Denver.
Roy Radich, 2723 No. Cascade Ave., Colorado Springs.
E. I. Corrin, 2112 W. Kiowa, Colorado Springs.
Ellis L. De Lancey, York, Pa.
A1 W. Vance, Salt Lake City, Utah.
E. E. Kerr, Indepencence, Mo.
A.L. Lipke, Denver.
Thos. H. Wells, Denver.
L.N. Wells, Denver.
Clarence Smith, Denver.
S.H. Willis, Denver.
Etta E. Powers, Ontario, Calif.
Lewis H. Salisbury, Pasadena, Calif.
A.Weygandt, Chicago, Ill.
O.F. Schultze, Norwalk, Conn.
H. K. Carter, Tacoma, Wash.
M.Stoner, Wichita, Kan.
Reed Storms, Kansas City, Mo.
V.C. Reeder, Kansas City, Mo.
R. R. Sullivan, Springfield, I11.
Mrs. R. R. Sullivan, Springfield, I11.
W.A. Hannah, Ontario, Calif.
Edw. Stahl, Holmes Park, Mo.
W. H. Blair, Lamoni, Iowa.
Kenneth P. Button, Rochester, N. Y.
Hampton Ellis. Houston, Tex.
Mr. and Mrs. L. De Ford, Colorado Springs.
R. J. Bernhardt, St. Louis. Mo.
John C. Fehr, Indianapolis, Ind.
Edw. Gajafsky, Green Bay, Wis.
Bert Weaver, Colorado Springs.
Geo. E. De Valon, Golden, Colo.
Roy Crowden, Colorado Springs.
C. W. Andrews, Colorado Springs.
Geo. A. Hollan, Colorado Springs.
W. G. Murray, Colorado Springs.
First Session of Convention, American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association Inc., Held at Municipal Auditorium, Colorado Springs, Colo.,
2p. m., December 1, 1925.
President De Lancey stated this was not to be a formal meeting of the convention, but was called in order to do some preliminary work necessary before the regular work of the convention was done.
The chair appointed the following members to act as resolution committee: Mr. Blair of Iowa, chairman; Mr. Foltz of Ohio, Mr. Griffin of Colorado, Mr. Salisbury of California, and Mr. K. P. Button of New York.
The chair then appointed the following members to act as a committee to count the ballots for election of officers: Messers. H. Ellis of Texas, chairman, O. Schultze of Connecticut, and M. Stoner of Kansas
Report of Committees
Committee on Standards. President De Lancey advised the present committee would stand and asked that its members, and all the judges present get together and report at the last meeting of the convention.
Mr. Monroe Green representative of the Bureau of Biological Survey. U. S. government, Washington, D. C. was then presented to the con vention by President DeLancey.
Mr. Green gave a very interesting and educational talk to the convention members. Among other things Mr. Green suggested that a pool for rabbit furs be created, so that better prices might be obtained for rabbit furs. Mr. Green stated better prices could be obtained for the fur if offered to the furriers in large quantities, say in lots of 25,000 or more at one time. He was of the opinion that the furs should be shipped to one central point, when they should be sorted and graded and offered to the furriers when a sufficient number had been collected. Mr Green also laid stress on the fact that many of the American rabbit furs are not properly dried and not properly packed when shipped. Care should be taken to have them thoroughly dry before shipping.
Mr. Hannah of California gave some enlightening ideas on how furs should be treated.
The skins should be stretched with the fur inside. The leg pockets should be turned inside out so that they could dry thoroughly. The skins should then be allowed to dry thoroughly but not in the sunlight. When thoroughly dried and fat removed, they should be packed in sawdust when they are ready for shipping.
Several prominent members from various sections of the country then spoke of rabbit conditions in their sections of the country.
Mr. Blair, chairman of the Board of Directors advised that he had received many letters from members asking that a fur board be created to take care of many matters connected with the fur end of the industry. He confessed he did not know at this time just what should be done in connection with this matter. He stated that he was of the opinion some means could be advised to take care of the matter and thought with the help and cooperation of the breeders all over the country, a matter of pooling rabbit fur could be put over big.
Various members told the convention how they managed the fur end of their business. Many of them stated they had pelts tanned and had furriers make them up into coats and jackets, and in this manner managed to realize $3.00 per pelt. Others stated they tanned the pelts
and sold the to individuals who themselves made them up or had the garments prepared by furriers.
There being no further business at the time, the meeting adjourned.
Second Session, 2 p. m. Wednesday, December 2.
President De Lancey officially opened the Sixth Annual Convention of the A. R. & C. B. Association, Inc.
President De Lancey asked that a minute of silence be observed in memory and respect for the late Judge Bathel of Belleville, Ill., Judge Albert Sherwood of Nyack, N. Y., and other breeders and fanciers who had died during the previous year.
We were also reminded, when transacting business at this convention, of our duty to the breeders of the entire country, and were asked to give all matters our serious attention so that only such business that would be for the greatest benefit of all our members would be transacted.
Reading of Minutes
Inasmuch as the minutes of our previous convention were published in the rabbit journals and made known to all our members the reading of same was dispensed with.
Report of Ballot Committee
President: Ellis De Lancey 317 votes, Kenneth P. Button 83 votes.
Vice-president: Edw. Stahl, 255 votes, J. S. Bales. 146 votes.
Secretary: A. Weygandt, 398 votes, Robert Scott, 7 votes.
Treasurer: Miss N. M. Flaherty 323 votes, H. C. Batchellor 72 votes.
Board of Directors: W. H. Blair, chairman, 358 votes, L. S. J. Griffin 261 votes, Mrs. Leach 193 votes.
After the announcement of the election results President De Lancey announced that he positively would not be a candidate for re-election next year.
Annual Report of the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders’ Association given at the Convention at Colorado Springs, Colorado.
December 2, 1925, by A. Weygandt, Sec’y.
This Year of 1925 a Surprise
In making my third annual report to this association, I am pleased to announce that the past year has been a record-breaker, and our association and the industry have prospered and more advancement made than any previous year since I have had charge of the office.
Changing of Name
The first important event in our association for the year of 1925 was changing the name of the association and the name was changed from the National Breeders and Fanciers Association to the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, (Inc.) and charter taken out under the laws of the state of Illinois, under the new name January 20, 1925.
Specialty Clubs Take Out Charters
The next important work was the granting of charters to the specialty clubs, The Federation of Flemish, The Chinchilla, The Checkered Giants, and New Zealand clubs having taken out charters during the first quarter, and the Havana club which organized during the past summer applied for and was granted a charter in September. All of the above clubs, I am pleased to say, are holding their annual meetings here this week and we should all attend every one of these meetings we possibly can.
Fight on Express Rates
The next important item in our year’s work was the effort to get reduced rates on meat rabbits, and while this has not been settled definitely, we have not given up the fight and expect to get the required amount by January 1. I have to date $265.00 for this purpose and it is up to the breeders to put this over. I fully believe we can win the fight if we can raise the required amount; otherwise I would not have solicited the donations.
Recognition by the Government
The next important matter that will go down in history of rabbitdom is recognition by the Government of our industry and the work they started through the Biological Survey and through experiments to assist the rabbit and cavy breeders of the country to make our industry more successful. We are pleased to have Mr. Green of the survey with us and he will explain the work outlined in detail at one of the meetings before the close of the convention.
Locating Markets, Etc.
Our work in assisting beginners and correspondence connected with same has more than doubled the past year and this means more coming into our association and embarking in the industry which naturally creates more of a demand for breeding stock and the present breeders are reaping the benefits.
We have continued also to locate markets for meat rabbits and Cavies for laboratory purposes and this is a great help to the beginner, especially as all the old breeders usually have markets of their own.
We have also been able to advise all inquiring, where they could dispose of their rabbit skins, but I am sorry to say prices being paid are not what they should be.
Creating a Fur Board
Mr. Blair has been working during the year to create a Fur Board in order to help the breeders on this question, and I hope a successful plan will be worked out at this convention as something should be done if possible to get the breeders better prices for their skins.
However, I am looking for better markets and whenever you have skins for sale write me and I will gladly give you the best market I have located.
The Old Debt Paid
We have paid the old printing bill contracted by our former secretary and received receipt in full from the Review Press at Crawfordsville, Ind., and thereby relieving our association of all obligations and free of debt, and this is something we all appreciate, as it shows we are on a solid basis financially, which, any association must be in order to accomplish results.
Our Membership
Our membership has nearly doubled the past year and we now have 1821 members in good standing and I trust by the end of 1926 it will be again doubled, and there is no reason why it cannot.
Our New Guide Book
Ireceived permission from the board of directors last spring to start work on the new Guide Book, as I saw our supply of old books would be exhausted by fall.
Ihave ads, the membership list and most of the body ready for the printer but on account of new resolutions and changes in the standards it was necessary to hold the book up until after the convention. The book will be put out as soon as possible, and a copy mailed to all members in good standing, and I think you will appreciate it. Our supply of old books is exhausted.
Your Good Work Appreciated
In conclusion I wish to thank you all for your support and good work you have done for the association in various ways throughout the year. From the humblest member to the highest officer, it is your good work that has placed our association on the solid footing it is today.
The Journals Doing Good Work
The journals as usual have done their good work the past year and all should be supported by the breeders and while on the subject I am afraid many of our members do not even subscribe for a journal. If they do they fail to read them, for I receive many inquiries from secretaries of local associations asking questions about various matters connected with the American that have been published in my news items that very month.
Every rabbit and cavy breeder should subscribe for one or more of the journals and read every number and in this way you will be greatly benefitted and keep up to date on all important matters. By all means read the association news items as these are not written every month just to fill up space, but to keep you posted on the workings of the association.
1925 has been a banner year; let us make 1926 still better.
Report of Treasurer
Following is financial receipts and disbursem*nts for the year ending November 1, 1925;
Balance on hand November 1, 1924$ 28.50
Cash received;
Registration books Transfers Registrar licenses
Judges licenses ......
Rabbitry registrations Waxed wrappers
Old Year Book ads.....
New Guide Book ads
992.00 59.50
20.00 15.75 45.00
979.50 .26
Cash disbursed:
Stationery and stamps$ 703.99
Advertising ............................................-......... 44.44
Charter (Incorporating and rec.) .................................. 12.30
Membership commission94.75
Secretary’s commission1,253.55
Old printing bill (former sec.) .................................. 200.00
Balance on hand November 1, 1925 ................................. 482.98
Total ....................... .................—..$2,792.01
Motion made by Mr. Hannah, seconded by Mr. Carter the report of secretary and treasurer be accepted.
The chair appointed the following members to audit the books of the secretary and treasurer; Oscar Schultze, M. Stoner, and Hampton Ellis
Resolution No. 1. Resolved: That the registration system of the A. R. & C. B. Association Inc., be changed to do away with classes A, B, and breeders class; any rabbit eligible to be registered to be registered in one class. Submitted by J. C. Fehr.
Motion made by J. Fehr, seconded by O. Schultze, this resolution be adopted. Carried.
Resolution No. 2 withdrawn.
Resolution No. 3. Resolved: That the expenses of the president, vice president, secretary and chairman of board of directors be paid to the annual convention, such allowances, however, not to exceed the sum of $50.00 for each officer, and such allowances not to be granted except with the approval of the board of directors. This resolution to date from January 1, 1926. Submitted by Al Vance.
Motion made by Mr. Barrow seconded by J. C. Fehr, this resolution be adopted. Carried.
Resolution No. 4. Withdrawn, as same is covered by resolution No. 1.
Resolution No. 5. Resolved: That in the registration of rabbitries, if requested, a private mark (one only) will be allowed at no extra charge. Be it further resolved, that registration of rabbitries be allowed members of this association only and when membership expires, this will automatically cancel rabbitry registration and name can be used for a new rabbitry registration. Submitted by A. Weygandt.
Motion made by Mr. Foltz, seconded by W. B. Garland, this resolution be accepted. Carried.
Resolution No. 6. Resolved: That no breed of rabbit or cavy may be registered with the A. R. & C. B. Association, Inc., unless it has been recognized by this association and standard prepared to cover. Sub mitted by A. Weygandt.
Motion made by W. A. Hannah, seconded by W. B. Garland to adopt resolution. Carried.
Resolution No. 7. Resolved: That voting by proxy on questions coming up at the convention by one member for others not in attendance be not allowed for in this mnaner one man might control a convention. However, all local association holding a charter with the A. R. & C. B. Association, Inc., to be allowed to send one delegate to represent them at the convention. This delegate must present letter signed by the president and secretary of his local, showing he is their authorized representative, when he will be allowed to vote, on all questions coming up at the convention; one of himself and one for the local club he represents. Said delegate, however, must be a member of the A. R. & C. B. Association. Submitted by A. Weygandt.
Motion made by J. C. Fehr, seconded by W. B. Garland this resolution be accepted. Carried.
Resolution No. 8. Whereas, there is at the present time several systems of registration for rabbits and Cavies in existence, some being operated by specialty clubs and still others by individuals of questionable reputation and, Whereas, wre believe that this is confusing, especially to beginners in the industry and believe also that it lessens the value of registration, now be it therefore. Resolved: That this association be recorded as favoring one system of registration which is to be maintained by the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., and urge that the necessary steps be taken to consolidate all systems as above stated Submitted by the Colorado Rabbit Meat & Fur Association L. N. Wells, Secretary.
Motion made by R. R. Sullivan, seconded by O. Schultze, this resolution be adopted. Carried.
Resolution No. 9 Whereas, there is at the present time no import duty on rabbit hides shipped into the U. S. in great volume from foreign countries, and, Whereas, we feel that this works a hardship on all American rabbit breeders, therefore be it Resolved, that this association go on record as favoring an import duty on rabbit hides and urge that the A. R. & C. B. Association, Inc., all specialty clubs and local associations keep this question before their members in order that when the schedule of important tariff is up for adjustment by Congress, sufficient pressure may be brought to bear to have protection on rabbit hides established. Submitted by Colorado Meat & Fur Association, L. N. Wells, Secretary.
After much discussion it was decided to take no action on this resolution.
Resolution No. 10. Whereas, the rabbit industry is fast pushing to the front due to the efforts of the officers and members of the A. R. & C.
B.Association, Inc., and whereas, one of the features which draws the attention of many thousands of persons yearly is the shows and exhibitions throughout the country, and realizing that a large part of the success of each and every such fair or exhibition depends on the judge of that individual show, and that his actions reflect on the industry as a whole, causing either wide interest or manifest disgust on the part of the audience as well as the breeders, therefore, be it Resolved by the Spokane Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, a chartered local of the A. R. & C. B. Association Inc., that in such cases as where a local club shall have good and sufficient reason and cause, supported by poroper affidavits stating the facts in the case, and where three or more such local clubs shall have similar complaints affecting the same judge and shall submit such affidavits to the Secretary of the A. R. & C. B. Association, Inc., that the judge concerned shall have his license revoked forever, and that the fact be given the widest publicity without undue expense, and PROVIDED FURTHER, that the three chartered locals above mentioned shall be from three distinct and separate cities, towns and villages and that the by-laws be amended accordingly. Signed, A. E. Warsinski, President, Mrs. R. S. Ulrich, Secretary, Spokane Breeders Association.
Chairman of the Board Blair, advised that the present by-laws covered cases of this kind. He stated that the case this resolution is evidently aimed at had come to his attention two years ago but that up to the present time, no signed and sworn affidavits had been furnished. He stated that when same would be furnished the proper action would be taken as it would have been, had the proper affidavits been made two years ago.
As no motion was made for adoption of this resloution, same was killed.
Resolution No. 11. Whereas, the Spokane Rabbit Breeder's Asocia-tion. being a chartered local of the A. R. & C. B. Association, Inc., is very vitally interested in seeing the rabbit industry boosted nationally and is doing what work it can as an interested local toward this end, and W’hereas, we individually and singly have encountered cases where stock purchased from cities had been falsely and deliberately misrepresented for sale purposes, such animals having been unfit for even meat purposes, and Whereas, the owners of these rabbits were and are members of other rabbit clubs and are also, as far as we are able to determine at this time members of the A. R. & C. B. Association, Inc., Therefore, we the duly elected Officers of the Spokane Rabbit Breeder’s Association, do suggest and recommend and most earnestly urge that appropriate steps be taken by the officers of the said parent Associa-
tion to expose such members, to bar them from membership in said parent Association or in any local rabbit club chartered by the said parent Association. W. E. Warsinske, President, Mrs. R. S. Ulrich. Secretary, Spokane Rabbit Breeder’s Association.
As this is covered by our present by-laws, no action was taken on same.
Resolution No. 12. After discussion this was referred back to the Resolution Committee.
Resolution No. 13. Resolved: That the judgeship requirements, applicant must secure the indorsem*nt of local association, signed by President and Secretary, to the fact that they positively know applicant to be qualified to judge all breeds of rabbits. If no local association vouchers for him, ten American Association member’s signatures must be secured vouching for applicant’s qualifications. Besides requirements No. 1, applicant must furnish names of last five shows he has judged, also names of Secretaries of said five shows, this information to be furnished, A. R. & C. B. Association, Secretary, K. H. Carter.
No motion was made upon this motion so same was automatically defeated.
Resolution No. 14. Referred back to Resolution Committee to be brought up later.
Resolution No. 15. Resolved: That a judge shall not look in the ears of a rabbit until after he has placed the rabbit and that the show steward should loo kfor ear canker when the rabbit is cooped into the show. Submitted by Chas. Weirwick.
As no action was taken upon this matter in the form of a motion, same was automatically killed.
Resolution No. 16. Resolved: That the A. R. & C. B. Association, Inc., make it an order that no entries be accepted after dates closed for entries. This is an order to give the show secretary a chance to get his show lined up as it should be. Submitted by Chas. Weirwick.
Motion made by Chas. Garland, seconded by J. C. Fehr that same be adopted. Motion was defeated.
Resolution No. 17. Resolved: That all standards as adopted at this Convention shall remain in force for three years without change. Submitted by H. C. Foltz.
Motion made by Dr. Kerr, seconded by R. R. Sullivan that this resolution be adopted. Carried.
Resolution No. 18. Resolved: That Chapter 5, Section 3, of our by-laws be amended as follows: Any person (with the approval of the State Organization where one exists) Club or Association may become a member of this Association upon the payment of dues as follows: Individuals shall pay a fee of $2.00 per annum, said fee to accompany the application. Branch Association and Specialty Clubs shall receive a charter upon payment of a fee of $3.00 per annum, the same to accompany the applica- tion. Submitted by L. H. Salisbury.
Motion made by L. H. Salisbury, seconded by H. K. Carter this resolution be adopted. Motion carried unanimously.
Motion made to adjourn until 7 p. m., December 2. Carried.
Third Session, 7 p. m., December 2
Meeting was presided over by Vice-President J. S. Bales.
The auditing committe reported they had audited the books of the secretary and of the treasurer and found same to be O. K.
Motion made by W. A. Hannah, seconded by V. C. Reeder that the report of the committee be accepted and the committee discharged. Carried.
Resolution No. 12. Resolved: Whereas, the A. R. & C. B. Associa-
tion, Inc., is at this time giving as special premiums a very attractive and desirable certificate for rabbits that win honors in the show room, and Whereas, to avoid substitution and duplication, and eventual dishonesty on the part of some of the more unscrupulous persons who may perchance win this coveted certificate on stock owned and shown by them: to more fully protect the upright and the progressive breeders from the acts of such persons: and to make of this certificate a reward of value, won by merit alone and not by chance, therefore, we the members in good standing of the Spokane Rabbit Breeder’s Association, a local chartered by the A. R. & C. B. Association, Inc., do suggest, recommend and urge that the officers of the parent association make a rule and enforce same requiring every rabbit winning one of said certificates to be registered before the certificate is delivered to the owner, and further that under no circ*mstances whatsoever may this rule be disregarded. Signed, A. E. Warsinski, president; Mrs. R. S. Ulrich, secretary, Spokane Rabbit Breeder’s Association.
Motion made by H. C. Foltz, seconded by M. Stoner that the resolution be adopted. Carried.
Resolution No. 14. Resolved: That the Constitution and By-Laws be amended to call for the board of directors to be elected from the different sections of the U. S., as follows: One from west of the Rocky Mountains, one from the northern section, one from the southern section, one from the eastern section, and one from the central section. W. A. Hannah.
Afetr much discussion this resolution was withdrawn by W. A. Hannah.
Resolution No. 10. Resolved: That the president appoint a committee of three to draft a new Constitution and By-Laws and submit same to the board of directors for their approval, said proposed constitution to be printed and a copy mailed to each member by the secretary not later than February 1, 1926, the printed copy of the proposed Constitution and By-Laws to have a voting square marked yes and no for the adoption or rejection, of said constitution as the members see fit. Same to be returned to the secretary not later than February 15, 1926, the constitution if adopted to go into effect at this date. Signed W. H. Blair.
The chair appointed Meseers. Green, Salisbury and Foltz to act on this committee. After discussion where it was brought out that this committee would have to work hurriedly and it would take a committee more closely located, the members of this committee resigned. New committee to be appointed later.
Chairman of the board reported on the express case fight. Stated that $265 was in his hands and that when the sum of $500 was secured the matter would be taken up.
Under the good of the order, Mr. Hannah gave us quite a little talk on the matter of by-products of the rabbits. He stated the citrous and lemon growers of California found the rabbit fertilizer to be very good and preferred to that of other fertilizers. He stated that many of the rabbitries report sales of rabbit fertilizer at from $12 to $15 per ton, many rabbitries in small towns found a ready sale for it by the sack, often bringing 40 cents to 50 cents per sack, weighing probably 60 to 75 pounds.
Motion made and regularly seconded to adjourn. Carried.
Fourth Session, 8 p. m., December 3.
Meeting was called to order by President DeLancey.
Resolution No. 20. Resolved: That a telegram be sent to E. A. Enslen of Lima, Ohio, show secretary of the 1924 convention show, sending him our wishes for a speedy recovery, and expressing our regret of circ*mstances which make it impossible for him to be with us.
Motion to adopt resolution carried unanimously.
Resolution No. 21. Resolved: That if any specialty club registering rabbits in any other than the A. R. & C. B. Association, should affiliate with the A. R. & C. B. association, Inc., that specialty club shall furnish the board of directors a full list of registrars of the club. Be it further resolved, that the board be given the power to grant or refuse to grant a license to these registrars and any license granted by this board be for the unexpired term of the registrar in his specialty club. Be it further resolved, the secretary of the specialty club furnish the secretary of the
A.R. & C. B. Association all records of its registration system for the protection of the registrations now in force. L Salisbury.
Motion made by W. B. Garland, seconded by R. R. Sullivan that the resolution be adopted. Carried.
Resolution No. 22. Resolved: That a combination registration plan be created, whereby such specialty club affiliated with the A. R. & C.
B.Association, Inc., be able to issue for a fee of 25 cents registration certificates to those who desire them. Such certificates to be issued only on rabbits already registered by the A. R. & C. B. Association, Inc. Be it further resolved that the A. R. & C. B. Association, function through the secretary’s office issue with each registration certificate an application blank to be filled out by the owner of the rabbit. This application may be sent to the secretary of the specialty club sponsoring that particular breed of rabbit; who will issue the regular club registration certificate from the records appearing on the certificate issued by the A. R. & C. B. Association, Inc. Be it further resolved that on the back of the application blank it be suggested that the rabbit for which the original certificate is issued, be recorded with the specialty club sponsoring same and instructions given how to do so. Recommeneded by Ed Stahl. V. C. Reeder and John Fehr.
Note.—The resolution committee does not recommend this resolution as it feels that it is impractical and would entail useless expense.
Motion made by Mr. O. Schultze, seconded by W. B. Garland, that this resolution be rejected. Motion carried and resolution rejected.
Resolution No. 23. Resolved: That all charters be granted specialty clubs free, however, application should be made by the said club in the usual manner. A. Weygandt.
Motion made by K. P. Button, seconded by Mr. Foltz, this resolution be adopted. Carried.
Resolution No. 24. Whereas, a resolution having been adopted at this convention increasing the individual membership from $1.00 to $2.00 per annum, and, whereas, the present Constitution provides that the secretary retain 50 per cent of all money coming into his office, now therefore, be it resolved that the Constitution be amended to read that the secretary be allowed to retain 50 per cent of all moneys coming into his office with the exception of membership dues, of which he be allowed to retain 25 per cent. Signed Al Vance.
Motion made by K. P. Button, seconded by M. Stoner this resolution be adopted. Carried.
Resolution No. 25. Be it resolved: That all cash and merchandise specials offered at the national shows be forwarded to and received by the acting secretary of the show before being listed in the premium list, as a premium to be competed for. M. Stoner.
Resolution committe recommends matters of this kind be handled by local associations.
Motion by V. C. Reeder, seconded by R. R. Sullivan this resolution be rejected. Motion carried and resolution rejected.
Resolution No. 26. Resolved: That the A. R. & C. B. Association, Inc., through its secretary devise and cause to be printed, a standard judging
sheet for use by all shows governed by the rules of said association. Same to be furnished to the various local associations at cost. V. C. Reeder.
Motion made by Dr. Kerr, seconded by O. Schultze, this resolution be adopted. Motion defeated.
Resolution No. 27. Submitted by the standard committee:
Sec. 1, Resolved: That the registration weight on Flemish bucks and does be raised as follows: Steels, Grays, Blacks, Blues and Whites, bucks 11 pounds; does 12 pounds. Sandys, bucks 12 pounds; does 13 pounds.
Sec. 2. Resolved, that all foreign standard breeds be recognized and judged by the standard of their respective country, provided the A. R. &
C.B. Association has no standard to cover.
Sec. 3. Resolved, that the Blue and White Beveran rabbit standard as adopted by the English breeders be adopted by the A. R. & C. B. Association.
Sec. 4. Resolved: That the color of Red English Cavies be changed to read: Color deep rich red.
Sec. 5. Resolved, that the following standards be adopted for Silver Grey and Silver Blue Giant rabbits:
The Silver Giant rabbit resembles the English Silver rabbit in every way but size and length of fur. They are Silver Gray and Silver Blue.
Color. Undercoloring in Gray a rich deep, blue-black, in Blues a dark pearl gray. Points 20; cuts 1 to 10.
Silvering. Even throughout the entire body, head, ears, feet and tail. Points 20; cuts 1 to 8.
Ticking. Distinct, sharp, bright and evenly distributed throughout the entire body, head, ears, tail and feet. Points 5; cuts 1 to 5.
Eyes. A rich hazel brown in Grays, and a slaty blue in Blues. To be bolt and bright. Points 5; cuts 1 to 3.
Ears. Not under 5 inches and carried erect. Pints 5; cuts 1 to 3.
Fur. Thick, long, and even. Free from molt and hutch stains. Points 20; cuts 1 to 10.
Shape and Size. Neat, long, broad fore and hind quarters, back well arched from neck and exceptionally meaty shoulders. Weight, bucks 10 pounds; does 11 pounds. Points 20; cuts 1 to 10.
Condition. Neat and healthy appearance, Points, 5, Cuts, 1 to 3.
Disqualifications. Bucks weighing under 8 pounds and does weighing under 9 pounds. Eyes other than brown in Silver grays; eyes other than blue in Silver blues. White patches, crooked legs, drooped or fallen ears, putty nose and all general disqualifications.
Section 6. Resolved: That animals covered by proposed Standards be permitted to be classed as standard breeds in show rooms but that animals covered by these working standards not to be allowed to be registered until admitted to a standard. However, those animals covered by a proposed or working standard may be allowed to count for points in a show.
Each section of resolution No. 27 was voted on separately. A motion was made and properly seconded and carried, for each of the above sections.
Resolution No. 27. Resolved: That applicants for judge’s license be required to furnish the names of at least three shows at which he has assisted a national licensed judge. Be it further resolved, that said applicant secure the endorsem*nt of said national licensed judge or judges. Al Vance.
Motion made by Mr. Lipke, seconded by Mr. Schultze, this resolution be adopted. Carried.
Resolution No. 28. Resolved: That after this convention all resolutions proposed, be read at one meeting of the convention and there dis-
cussed, but shall not be acted upon until next meeting. Lewis S. J. Griffin.
Motion made by Mr. Foltz, seconded by Mr. Lipke, that this resolution be adopted. Carried.
Motion to adjourn till 9 a. m. Friday morning, December 4.
Fifth Session, 10 a. m. December 4
President DeLancey appointed the following members to act as a committee to revise the constitution and by-laws: Monroe D. Green. A. Weygandt, and J. S. Bales, Mr. DeLancey to act as chairman.
Motion made by K. P. Button, seconded by H. Foltz that a rising vote of confidence be given our president and the committee he had appointed.
Resolution No. 30. Resolved: That resolution No. 22 be again brought before the convention for discussion and action. Edw. Stahl.
Motion made by Mr. Foltz, seconded by Edw. Stahl, the resolution be adopted. Carried.
Resolution No. 22. Resolved: That a combination registration plan be created, whereby each specialty club affiliated with the A. R. & C. B, Association, Inc., be able to issue for a fee of fifty cents each, certificate to those who desire them, such certifiicates to be issued only on rabbits already registered by the A. R. & C. B. Association, Inc. Be it further resolved, that the A. R. & C. B. Association, Inc., through the secretary’s office issue with each registration certificate an application blank to be filled out by the owner of the rabbit. This application may be sent to the secretary of the specialty club sponsoring that particular breed of rabbit; who will issue the regular club certificate from the records appearing on the certificate issued by the A. R. & C. B. Association, Inc. Be it further resolved, that on the back of the application blank it be suggested that the rabbit for which the original certificate is issued, be recorded with the specialty club sponsoring same and instructions given how to do so. Edw. Stahl, V. C. Reeder, J. C. Fehr.
Motion made by Mr. Foltz, seconded by W. B. Garland that resolution be accepted. Carried.
Resolution No. 31. Resolved: That the A. R. & C. B. Association, Inc., through its secretary, draft a standard judging sheet (in duplicate form) for use in all shows under the rules of said association; a model of this judging sheet to be printed in the next year book. Signed V. C. Reeder.
Motion made by Mr. Foltz, seconded by A. Weygandt that resolution be adopted. Carried.
Motion made by Dr. Kerr, seconded by W. B. Garland, that the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., and affiliated organizations extend to the Pike’s Peak Rabbit Breeders Association a vote of thanks and appreciation for their hard work in staging the 1925 convention show and for the splendid time and amusem*nt afforded the delegates attending the convention in Colorado Springs. Motion carried unanimously.
Inasmuch as the standard committe completed its work, said committee was discharged.
New Business
Various delegates from different parts of the country spoke at great length on the fur proposition.
After much discussion, the following resolution was offered:
Resolution No. 32. Resolved: That the A. R. & C. B. Association, Inc., establish a receiving station for raw rabbit furs in the city of New York, where all rabbit breeders who so desire may ship their pelts, in any quantity, and have them sorted, graded and sold to the raw fur buyers at the best prevailing prices.
Be it further resolved, that the president appoint immediately, some one man from among the membership, to act as manager of such receiving station with authority to work out all details of operation. The manager thus appointed shall receive a commission of 5 per cent of the gross receipts for his services. He shall be bonded (at the expense of the A. R. & C. B. Association, Inc.) for such amount as board directors deem necessary and he shall be held responsible by the board. Signed L. S. J. Griffin, D. M. Green.
Motion made by Mr. W. A, Hannah, seconded by Mr. Lipke, that resolution be adopted. Carried.
President DeLancey appointed Kenneth P. Button of Rochester, N. Y., to act in the capacity of manager of fur receiving station.
Resolution No. 33. Resolved: That after receiving Mr. Button’s report and suggestions at the end of three months, that the board of directors be empowered to increase or decrease the commission on sales of raw furs specified in resolution No. 32, as may be deemed advisable. Signed L. S. J. Griffin.
Motion made by W. H. Blair, seconded by V. C. Reeder this resolution be adopted. Carried.
Mr. W. A. Hannah of California, invited the officers and members of the A. R. & C. B. Association and specialty clubs to meet and hold their 1926 convention in California.
Mrs. Rowene Ulrich, secretary of the Spokane Rabbit Breeder’s Association, sent as a delegate to bid for the 1926 convention withdrew in favor of California.
Kenneth P. Button of Rochester, N. Y., also withdrew Syracuse in favor of California.
J. S. Bales of Springfield, I11., stated that Springfield had withdrawn in 1925 in favor of Colorado Springs, and would cordially invite the 1926 convention.
Motion was made and properly seconded to adjourn, to meet at the time and place elected by the board of directors in 1926. Motion carried.
A. Weygandt, Secretary
1. To promote, encourage and develope the rabbit, cavy and other fur bearing animals industry, and for the purpose of establishing a well organized central body charged with the duties of carrying out this object.
2.To provide a center of information and advice on all matters pretaining to the above industry and to create markets for rabbit meat and skins as well as thoroughbred stock.
3.To promote by all possible means original investigation in the industry, and with that object in view to keep in touch with institutions of learning and men of science interested in the industry.
4.To co-6prate in securing national legislation and rules governing and regulating the industry and to aid by all means in the enforce ment of these rules and regulations.
5.To preserve the pedigrees and descriptions of these animals and to perfect and carry on a registration system for the same.
1. To provide all the literature available on the subject and the experience of practical men in the industry.
2.It furnishes at regular intervals a stud book containing information which is of inestimable value to those in the industry.
3.It organizes and carries out exhibitions from time to time.
4.It plans by all means possible to encourage its members and others to develope the industry and get others interested.
1. The officers of the Association shall be: President, Vice-President, Secretary, Treasurer, and a Board of Directors consisting of five members, all of whom shall be elected at the annual election of this Association, and by and from its membership. In the election of the Board of Directors, three to be elected for two years and two for one year. Each year thereafter the same number shall be elected as those whose terms shall expire.
2.The officers of the Association shall serve one year or until their successors are elected and qualified except the Board of Directors as hereinafter provided. They shall enter upon the discharge of their duties January 1, each year.
3.Vacancies in offices during term shall be filled by the Board of Directors.
4.That the expenses of the president, vice-president, secretary, and chairman of board of directors be paid to the annual convention, such allowances, however, not to exceed the sum of $50.00 for each officer, and such allowances not to be granted except with the approval of the board of directors.
President. The president shall preside at all the meetings of the Association, and act as Chairman of the Executive Board, appoint all committees, call special meetings of the Association, or of the Executive
Board in accordance with the By-Laws, and perform such other duties as usually pertain to his office. He shall have such other powers an may be conferred upon him by the Executive Board at any meeting of such Board.
Vice-President. The duties of the Vice-President shall be the same as those of the President in case of the absence or disability of the President.
Secretary. The Secretary shall devote sufficient time and attention to the duties of his office and to such other duties as the President and Executive Board may direct.
2.He shall collect and keep account of all moneys due to the Association, and pay all bills and make all reports of the same.
He shall also make report to Treasurer at end of each month and turn all moneys due the Association from the month’s receipts according to this report over to the Treasurer promptly.
3.He shall be the custodian of and keep well insured all the property of the Association. He shall have a bond in favor of the Association for a sum to be set by the Executive Board, said sum to be not less tha $3,000.00.
4.He shall keep a proper record of all registrations, make all certificates, compile a suitable stud book, make and order all forms needed in the work of the same and secure all necessary printed matter for the conducting of his office, with the approval of the Executive Board.
5.He shall have such other and further duties as shall be imposed upon him by the Executive Board or the President.
Treasurer. It will be the duty of the Treasurer to accept and keep correct record of all moneys turned over by Secretary at the end of each month and not to pay out any of this money only on a written order signed by the President of the Board and the Secretary. Treasurer’s bond to be $2,000.00.
Board of Directors. It shall be the duty of the Board of Directors to have charge of the various business transactions of the Association; to authorize the expenditure of moneys by and for the Association; to pass on any and all special legislative matters found desirable and not in conflict with or provided by this instrument; it shall have the power to make contracts in the name of the Association when so needed in the promotion of the work by any or all departments and to have a supervision over all special departments as may herein be provided for. And see that the Secretary and Treasurer books are audited at the annual meeting, prior to the annual business meeting, also upon retiring from office.
That the Secretary be allowed to retain 50% of all money coming into his office, that he shall from this amount defray all expenses connected with this office with the exception of stamps and stationery which shall be furnished by the Association. Further that the Board of Directors shall be empowered to grant any additional compensation as they may see fit. Resolution passed at convention held at Colorado Springs, Dec. 1-4, 1925 increasing membership to $2.00 also stipulates that Secretary's commission on those $2.00 membership shall be 25%.
The Secretary must make quarterly financial reports to the Board of Directors and an annual report at each Annual Convention. The Treasurer shall also make an annual report at the Annual Convention.
Chapter 1 MEETINGS
Section 1. The annual meeting of the Association shall be held in the city to be designated by the Board of Directors. Notice for the time and place for holding any such meeting must be sent by the Secretary to each member at least 30 days prior thereto. The President must call a Special Meeting of the Association when so requested to in writing, by at least twenty-five members in good standing. At such special meetings, there shall be considered only the special business for which the meeting was called and of which notice was included in the call sent the members.
Sec. 2. At all meetings twenty-five members shall constitute a quorum. No person not a member shall act as proxy for any member.
Sec. 3. If no quorum shall be present the presiding officer shall adjourn the meeting to a day and hour fixed by him.
Sec. 4. At all meetings of the Association the President shall preside and the Secretary of the Association shall act as Secretary. In the absence of the President the Vice-President shall preside. In the event of the absence of all officers, the majority of the members present shall, by majority vote, elect a presiding officer. In the event of the absence of the Secretary, th presiding officer shall appoint a Secretary for the meeting.
Sec. 5. At all meetings of the Association the presiding officer shall appoint three members present in person to act as inspectors and tellers of the meeting, whose duties shall be to receive, inspect, canvass and report all votes taken or cast at such meeting.
Sec. 6 At all meetings of the Association the order of business, except when otherwise determined by the majority vote of those present shall be:
1st. Reading and correction of minutes of last meeting.
2nd. Reports of Committees.
3rd. Report of Officers.
4th. Appointing of Committees.
5th. Unfinished Business.
6th. General Business.
7th. That voting by proxy on questions coming up at the convention by one member for others not in attendance be not allowed for in this manner one man might control a convention. However, all local association holding a charter with the A. R. & C. B. association, Inc., to be allowed to send one delegate to represent them at the convention. This delegate must present letter signed by the president and secretary of his local, showing he is their authorized representative, when he will be allowed two votes on all questions coming up at the convention; one for himself and one for the local club he represents. Said delegate, however, must be a member of the A. R. & C. B. asssocia-tion.
8th. Resolutions. That all resolutions proposed be read at one meeting of the convention and there discussed, but shall not be acted upon until next meeting.
Chapter 2
Sec. 1. State Associations—Officers of the Association shall consist of Governor, 1st and 2nd Lientenant Governor, Secretary-Treasurer and Board of Directors, who shall adopt this constitution.
Sec. 2. Meetings of the State Governors shall be held at such times and at such places as shall be determined by them.
Sec. 1. The Governors of the State Association shall be elected by the State Association. Where no State Organization shall exist the President shall appoint such Governor with the approval of the Executive Committee whose first duties are to effect a State Organization.
Sec. 2. The Secretary shall mail out Nomination Ballots at least Ninty Days before the Annual Election for the purpose of Nominating Officers, and at least Thirty Days before the time of Holding the Annual Convention, he shall mail out to every member in good standing a voting blank. The Voting Blank shall be mailed to the Election Commissioner named by Chairman of the Board who will count nominations and Advise Secretary results of Nomination then Secretary shall then take the two receiving the Highest votes for nomination on Election Ballot but if One is High in more than one Office Secretary shall take up with him and let him choose the office he wishes to be placed on. Taking the next highest Nominee for the other place on Election Ballot.
A self Addressed envelope shall accompany each election Ballott with Election Commissioners name and Address thereon and party voting shall seal same and mail direct to Election Commissioner. Election Commissioner shall leave same sealed and bring or send to the Convention where the President shall Appoint a Committee of three to open and count same, and Chairman of this Committee announce results of Election at Convention.
Sec. 3. Any member receiving Ten or more Nominations for an Office shall have his or her name placed on the election Ballot for the office Nominated.
In case no two members receive ten or more nomination votes the two receiving the highest votes shall be placed on the Ticket.
Sec. 1. The President with the approval of the Board of Directors shall appoint from time to time such standing committees as may be necessary and proper for the conduct of the affairs of the Association. Only members in good standing shall be appointed to such committees.
Sec. 2. The amount of indebtedness which may be incurred by any committee shall in no case exceed the amount appropriated for its use by the Board of Directors.
Sec. 3. The work of all Committees shall be subject to the approval of the Board of Directors, except as otherwise herein provided.
Sec. 1. The Board of Directors may elect as honorary members any person distinguished for his political, scientifical, industrial or administrative capacity. Honorary members shall be exempt from all dues, fees or subscriptions and shall have no right to vote at any meeting of the Association.
Sec. 2. Any person may become a life member by the payment of fifty dollars ($50.00), which shall be received in lieu of all annual dues or assessments.
Sec. 3. Any person (with the approval of the State Organization where one exists), Club or Association, may become members of this Association upon payment of dues as follows: Individuals shall pay a fee of $2.00 per annum, said fee to accompany the application. Local Associations shall receive a charter upon payment of a fee of $3.00
per annum, the same to accompany the application. Specialty Clubs furnished charter free on application.
Sec. 4. All members shall be entitled to all the information available in the industry and in possession of the Association and shall have a right to vote at meetings of the Association.
Chapter 6
Sec. 1. The interpretation by the Board of Directors of the Con-stitution, By-Laws, Rules, Regulations, Notices, Resolutions and of Club Documents and orders shall be binding upon all members and those enjoying any of the privileges of the Asoociation.
Sec. 2. The Board of Directors may suspend or expel any member of the Association for conduct which in its judgment warrants such punishment.
Sec.3.An appeal maybe taken from the ruling of theBoardof
Directorstothe membershipat the next annual election.
Chapter 7
Sec. 1. All notices required to be sent to any member shall be sent by mail prepaid to his residence or place of business as it appears on the Association books and such mailing shall be presumptive evidence of the service there of. Any change in the address must be sent promptly to the Secretary.
Chapter 8
Sec.1.The applicationfor all Judge’s License shall bemadeto
theSecretary of the Association on blanks supplied by himfor that
purpose. The said application shall bear the endorsem*nt of the President and Secretary of the Local and State Association under whose jurisdiction said applicant lives, also that he assist one of our licensed judges at least 3 shows and get said judge’s signature to application.
Sec. 2. The fee for Judge’s License shall be two dollars ($2.00) for one year. The fee shall accompany the application and shall be returned to applicant in case said applicant shall be rejected. In case any Judge fails to renew his license at the expiration of the year he shall be suspended until such a time as he renews the same. This renewal shall be made at the option of the Board of Directors.
Sec. 3. All foreign standard breeds be recognized and judged by the standard of their respective country, provided the A. R. & C. B. Association has no standard to cover.
Sec. 1. The application for all Registrar's Licenses shall be made to the Secretary of the Association on blanks furnished by him for that purpose. The said application shall bear the endorsem*nt of the President and Secretary of the Local and State Associations under whose jurisdiction said applicant lives, also the signature of one licensed judge.
( Sec. 2. The fee for Registrar’s License shall be two dollars (2.00) for one year and the said fee shall accompany the said application. In case said application is rejected the said fee shall be returned. If any Registrar fails to renew his license at the expiration of
the year he shall be suspended until such a time as he renews the same. This renewal shall be made at the option of the Board of Directors.
Sec. 3. In case the said applicant for said Judge’s and Registrar’s License lives in a state where there is no Association and in a community where there is no Local, he shall secure the endorsem*nt of five well known breeders and a Judge of this Association in addition to the other signatures.
Sec. 1. The By-Laws may be amended only by a two-thirds vote of the members of the Association present at a regular or special meeting of the Association, notice of the purport of the proposed amendment having been stated in the call for the meeting.
Chapter 11
Sec. 1. That the A. R. & C. B. association, Inc., establish a re ceiving station for raw rabbit furs in the city of New York, where all rabbit breeders who so desire may ship their pelts, in any quantity, and have them sorted, graded and sold to the raw fur buyers at the best prevailing prices.
That the president appoint some one man from among the membership, to act as manager of such receiving station with authority to work out all details of operation. The manager thus appointed shall receive a commission of 5 per cent of the gross receipts for his services. He shall be bonded (at the expense of the A. R. & C. B. association, Inc.) for such amount as the board of directors deem necessary and he shall be held responsible by the board, and the Board of Directors are empowered to increase or decrease the commission on sales of skins handled by said manager as they may deem advisable.
1.All rabbits shall be registered by Licensed Registrars of the Association and same must be a Standard Breed of this association.
2.Each registration shall be evidenced by a certificate of registration which shall be made in duplicate, original to be mailed owner of animal and duplicate to be placed in file in the Association Stud Book.
3.On and after Jan. 1, 1926 there will be no classes in registera-tions. All animals must be free from disqualifications, but no Class A -B-etc. In other words one registration certificate will cover all registered animals.
That the Secretary shall be empowered to register cavies. Application for registry shall be made on uniform blanks furnished by the Secretary. Said registration system shall be copied after that used by pure bred hog associations doing such a business.
All Standards as adopted at Colorado Springs, 1925 convention to remain in force for 3 years without change.
1.That fee for registration shall be $1.00 for each rabbit registered. One half of this fee shall go to the Association and the other half to the Registrar making the registration.
2.The fee for registering all Cavies shall be 50 cents; one-half of this fee shall go to the Association and the other half to the Registrar making the registration.
Application blanks shall be bound in sets of ten and registrars shall be requested to purchase these blanks at 50 cents each, paying in advance for the same for rabbits and 25 cents each for Cavies.
3.The fee for registering the names of rabbitries to be $1.00. There is a certificate issued for this registration and registry number is furnished applicant and also page on which registry appears in association record book given on said certificate. One private "trade mark" to be included in such registration but no more. Only members of the association to be allowed these registrations and same automatically expires at expiration of membership.
4.Combination Registrations.—That a combination registration plan be created, whereby each specialty club affiliated with the A. R. & C. B. association, Inc., be able to issue for a fee of fifty cents each, certificates to those who desire them, such certificate to be issued only on rabbits already registered by the A. R. & C. B. association, Inc. Be it further resolved, that the A. R. & C. B. association, Inc., through the secretary’s office issue with each registration certificate an application blank to be filled out by the owner of the rabbit. This application may be sent to the secretary of the specialty club sponsoring that particular breed of rabbit; who will issue the regular club certificate from the records appearing on the certificate issued by the A. R. & C. B. association, Inc. Be it further resolved, that on the back of the application blank it be suggested that the rabbit for which the original certificate is issued, be recorded with the specialty club sponsoring same and instructions given how to do so.
Official Show Rules
Branch Associations, Association members of the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders’ Association, Inc., holding exhibitions, governed by, and subject to the Association’s Rules and Regulations, must print in the Premium Lists or on their entry sheets in bold face type:
“The (full name of Association) being a member of the American
Rabbit and Cavy Breeders’ Association, their...................Annual Show
(dates here), will be governed by and run under the latest revised OFFICIAL SHOW RULES OF THE AMERICAN RABBIT AND CAVY BREEDERS ASSOCIATION (INC). All prizes will be awarded strictly in accordance with the National Standard of Perfection.’’
Section 1. Under normal conditions entries shall close the day advertised (entries bearing postmark of the date being eligible) and entry fees must be paid on or before that time, except when telegraphed and in such cases remittance must follow by first mail.
Sec. 2. Any person under disqualification by th American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., is ineligible to enter, to compete or to act as judge or in any capacity.
Sec. 3. All entries must be the bona fide property of the exhibitor. Otherwise he forfeits all entry fees, all prize money and all other premiums, as well as the right to have his stock remain in the show room. In cases of disqualification under this rule other exhibits shall, if qualified, be moved up in the list of winners, subject to the disqualified exhibitor’s right of appeal.
Sec. 4. In cases where it shall come to the knowledge of the management that disqualified parties have, unknown to them, succeeded in making an entry or entries, the right is reserved to cancel such entries, and such parties forfeit their entry fee. prize money and other premiums.
The Show Management reserves the right to refuse entries from exhibitors whose conduct in their opinion makes it desirable for the welfare of the show that their stock be debarred from competition.
Sec. 5. In cases where entries are made at shows where catalogues are issued and exhibits are not sent, entry fees will not be returned. Associations that do not issue catalogues may use their discretion in this matter.
Sec. 6. Exhibitors attempting to interfere with or influence the judge or judges shall have their stock disqualified and be barred from the show.
Sec. 7. Judges shall be required to sign the judge's book or card provided by the Show Association. An official record of these awards shall be preserved by the show secretary for reference.
Sec. 8. No specimen shall be removed from the show until after its close except upon the written consent of the Show Secretary, or Superintendent.
Sec. 9. All entries are entered and shown at the risk of owners and while associations are expected to exercise all reasonable care in the handling and protection of the exhibits, such associations will in no case be liable except as provided in Rule 10.
Sec. 10. Stock must be returned promptly at the close of the show, and any lost in the re-shipping through proven carelessness or negligence on the part of the show association, are to be paid for by such association at a value not to exceed $5.00 per specimen.
Sec. 11. Any exhibitors disqualified for fraudulent practices shall have the right of appeal to the Board of Directors of this Association, within one year from the date of his disqualification.
Sec. 12. Notice of a disqualification with a detailed statement shall be mailed by the show association, within ten days, to the Secre-tary of the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., and by registered mail to the disqualified party.
Sec. 13. In case of palpable error, or alleged fraudulent practice -on the part of any judge, any exhibitor shall have the right within twelve hours after the awards are posted, to make a written protest accompanied by a $5.00 deposit. The protest shall be passed upon by a committee of three, which shall consist of a representative of the Show Association, a judge, and a disinterested exhibitor, and if sustained the money shall be refunded.
Sec. 14. Notice of protests that are sustained shall be mailed within ten days to the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., to be brought by him before the Board of Directors, before whom an appeal ma ybe taken by the judge within one year.
Sec. 15. No judge shall exhibit in any class which he is judging and he shall refuse to consider any specimen that he may recognize as having been owned by him three months previous to the show, and no exhibitor or anyone interested in any exhibit that may be in the class shall act as assistant to the judge.
Sec. 16. Associations shall have the right to re-assign judges for cause or add to the list of judges as occasion may require, but all associations holding shows under Rules of the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., must secure licensed Judges of the association to judge show if possible to secure same.
Sec. 17. Show managements are compelled to refuse entry to the show room, and to remove from the same all diseased or unsightly specimens. Entry fees on such specimens shall be forfeited.
Sec. 18. All specimens must be exhibited in their natural condition Any violations of this rule shall exclude such premiums from competition and cause the withholding of all premiums awarded.
Sec. 19. Any matter not provided for in the foregoing rules and regulations will be referred to the Executive Committee of the local show for decision.
Sec. 20. Every exhibitor hereby agrees to submit to the jurisdiction of the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., and to abide by the rules, whether he is a member of the Association or not.
Sec. 21. Any Branch Association may make additional rules or regulations provided they do not conflict with these rules.
Sec. 22. All Branch Associations that are members of the Ameri- can Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association Inc., shall be permitted to designate their exhibition as official shows, and to advertise same as such, but must also be governed by Section 16.
Sec. 23. These Show Rules are official and are copyrighted and can be used only by Associations that are associate members of the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc.
Sec. 24. Branch Associations must offer premiums in all varieties of Standard bred stock.
Sec. 25. Special awards on sweepstakes shall be made on points: First prize to count as 6; second. 4; third, 3; fourth. 2, and fifth, 1. The total number of points won by an exhibitor to be multiplied by the number of specimens exhibited in his class; this grand total to be the number of points counted in the competition. Does and litters not to be counted in figuring sweepstakes for cups and specials outside of doe and litter classes.
Sec. 26. Champion Certificates. To avoid substitution and dup-lication, and eventual dishonesty on the part of some of the more un-
scrupulous persons who may perchance win this coveted certificate on stock owned and shown by them; to more fully protect the upright and the progressive breeder from the acts of such persons; and to make of this certificate a reward of value, won by merit alone and not by chance, therefore, do suggest, recommend and urge that the officers of the parent association make a rule and enforce same, requiring every rabbit winning one of said certificates to be registered before the certificate is delivered to the owner, and further that under no circ*mstance whatsoever may this rule be disregarded.
Sec. 27. Animals covered by proposed Standards be permitted to be classed as standard breeds in show rooms but that animals not be allowed to be registered until admitted to a standard. However, those animals covered by a proposed or working standard may be allowed to count for points in a show.
JUDGES SHOW REPORT Rabbits and Cavies
Los Angeles County Fair, Pomona. California
Class —........._..............____ Variety...
VF—Very Fine P—Poor VG—Very Good Sh—Short G—GoodD—Disqualified
(Original Sheets should be 8½ x 14 inches and space between columns ½ inch)

Instructions to Registrars
Many requests are received wanting to know the requirements or qualifications of one to be granted a Registrar’s licenses and whether or not registrars are wanted.
Registrars are wanted at all times but to qualify for this work one should be familiar with the Standard requirements of all breeds and all disqualifications for no animal that is disqualified can be given a Registration certificate. The following rules should be followed closely by Registrars as we wish to keep the Registration system on a sound basis so that when an animal is given a certificate it presents the true value of the individual it covers.
1—A uniform rate of One Dollar ($1.00) per head will be charged
on all rabbits, and fifty cents ($ .50) per head on all cavies registered.
2—Tattoo number as shown on Registration blank in right ear show-
ing the letter “A” or “B” after all numbers regardless of class, as this is only used to denote the series of registrations.
3—There are no classes provided for in Registrations of rabbits or
4—No rabbit not up to required weight should be given a certificate
but can be later on when up to required weight, provided they are otherwise qualified for registration.
5—All cavies to be registered at a charge of Fifty cents ($.50) each.
6—The registration application books containing Ten (10) dupli-
cate applications are sold to Registrar at Five Dollars ($5.00) each, for rabbits, and Two Dollars and Fifty Cents ($2.50) each for Cavies.
7—The Registrars should keep these duplicates so in case original
application is lost in mailing, he can furnish record for duplicate.
8—Animals whose sires and dams were not registered can be regis-
tered providing registrar finds them free from all disqualifications and possess quality sufficient to make them worthy of being regis-tered.
9—Never register an animal if disqualified in any section regardless
of quality in others.
10—Write out your applications plainly as a certificate is worthies*
unless correct and if names are not written distinctly, the party writing up the certificate cannot always “guess” correctly.
11—Mail applications in as soon as made out and do not hold in your
possession as this prevents me from keeping my records up to date.
12—Transfer of Ownership. Should an animal be sold that has been
registered the seller should mail Registration Certificate to buyer and request application for Transfer of Ownership blank to. the National office and fill out and mail in with fee of 25 cents. Cer-tificate of Transfer will then be issued and mailed to purchaser.
13—Rabbitry Registrations. Application should be mailed to Nation-
al Association giving name, owner, varieties, breed, etc., enclosing the regular fee of One Dollar ($1.00) and certificates for this purpose will be issued. One private trade mark to be included in such Registration but no more. Only members of the association allowed to register the names of their Rabbitry and same automatically expires at expiration of membership.
14—Registrars are requested to examine each animal carefully before
making out application for registration papers and see that no
disqualified animal is given a certificate; also that no animal under weight should be given a registration, but either can be registered Junior be given this registration, but either can be transferred later providing they come up to the requirements. In registering an animal first go over specimen carefully and look for disqualifications, then if free from any animal can be registered, USING GOOD JUDGMENT at all times.
9lbs...........American Blue Bucks........................ 8lbs.
10lbs................American Blue Does........................ 9lbs.
6lbs and over.......Angoras ..................-................... 5lbs.
7to 8 lbs...........Belgian Bucks ............Over8lbs.,under5½ lbs.noteligible
7 to 8 lbs.............Belgian Does .............Over8lbs.,under 6“““
9lbs and over ......Belgian Heavy-weightBucks .................. 8
10lbs.and over......Belbian Heavy-weightDoes .................. 9
7 to 9 lbs.............Champaingne de Argent ..................Under 6 lbs. not eligible
10 lbs.................Silver Giants Bucks .......................... 9 lbs.
11 lbs...................Silver Giants Does ......................... 10 lbs.
6 to 7 lbs.............-Chinchilla Does .........5 lbs and not over 8 lbs.
5½ to 6½ ................Chinchilla Bucks ...4½ lbs. and not over 7½ lbs.
11lbs..................Checkered Giants Bucks ...............Under 9 "“
13 lbs.................-Checkered Giants Does .................Under 10 “"
4lbs.................Dutch ..................................Over 5“""
6lbs................-English(spotsany color) ..............Over5“”
10lbs.(NOTE) .......English Lops Bucks .....................Under9“"“
11lbs.(NOTE) .......-EnglishLopsDoes ....................Under10“
13 lbs. and over ......-Flemish Steel Bucks ...................Under 11.....
15lbs.andover .-FlemishSteelDoes ...................Under12"
13 lbs.andover .Flemish Gray Bucks .....................Under11“""
15 lbs.andover .Flemish Gray Does ......................Under12
13 lbs.andover .Flemish White, Black andBlueBucks .Under11“
15 lbs.andover .Flemish White, Black andBlue Does .....Under12
15 lbs.andover .Flemish Sandy Bucks ....................Under12
17lbs.andover .-FlemishSandyDoes ...................Under13
4 lbs..................Goudas ................................ Over5“
6 lbs..................-.Havanas ............Under 4 lbs. and over 7“""
4lbs...................Himalayans .............Under 2½ or over 6“""
5to 6 lbs..............Imperial Blue ............Under 4 or over 7“
9 lbs..................New Zealand Bucks ......................Under8“"”
10lbs................New Zealand Does .......................Under9"
A Junior New Zealand to be eligible to Register must not be under 6 months old and not weigh less than 6 lbs.
3to 4 lbs............-Polish ..................4 lbs. and under not eligible
6 lbs..................-Silver Grays, Fawns, Browns....Under 4 or over 6½ lbs. not eligible
4 lbs....................Tans. Blacks and Blues ...Under 3 or over 5
English Lops. Earage, 18 in. to 26 in...Under 18 in. not eligible
7 lbs. and over........Beverens ...............................Under 7 lbs.
The National Registration System
By A. WEYGANDT, Secretary
The Registration System as adopted by the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., is one of the oldest in existance today devoted to the Registration of Rabbits.
Records of all registrations since the system was inaugurated are well preserved and carefully filed so that they can be referred to within a few minutes notice.
This means much to the careful breeders who may want information regarding a certain animal registered through this Association.
All that is required is to furnish the tattoo number in animal’s ear and papers covering can be easily located.
Kennel Clubs and others have started registering rabbits from time to time and breeders writing in to this Association for records of these registrations are disappointed as we have no record of them and know nothing as to where they originated.
We, therefore, request that all breeders having stock to register will see that they are registered in The American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, then later on should the animal be sold and papers become lost, the owner knows a copy of certificate showing breeding is located safely in the Association’s files and by writing to the Secretary a copy can be furnished at once. For this reason we request our members and others to register their stock with the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc so as to have the records of all registered animal kept in one office permanently, and not scattered all over the country with Kennel Clubs and other Associations.
Another object in having your animals registered with the American Rabbit and Cavy Association, Inc. As soon as possible we hope to have our Registration System on such a sound basis and established so thoroughly among the breeders throughout the country that no animal can be registered unless its parents are registered with the National Association, and this will be a great step toward a perfect registration system, and no doubt this would be the ruling now, we wish to give all a chance to have their breeding stock registered before putting this into effect.
Of course, this system could not be put in effect unless all the animals were registered in the American Rabbit and Cavy Breders As-sociation, Inc., as the papers of the parent of every animal registered 7 would have to be located in our files, and examined before certificate was issued. So please bear this in mind and have your rabbits registered with , the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc.
Many new members write in asking what steps should be taken to have animals registered, cost, etc.
An animal to be registered must be examined by one of our Licensed Registrars (see list of Registrars) and passed as to quality for no disqualified animal can be registered.
The application for registration contains a number. This number is then tattooed in the animal’s right ear and remains there per-manently.
The application is then filled out and mailed to the Secretary of the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc, who issues a certificate of registration in duplicate containing the same number tattooed in the animal’s ear.
The original certificate is then mailed to the owner and the duplicate is filed in the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., Stud Book, and kept for future reference.
Should the holder of this certificate sell the animal he should write in to the Secretary of the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders’ Associa-
tion, Inc., for an application for transfer of ownership. After receiving this application, fill out and mail to the Secretary with the usual fee of 25 cents, and certificate of transfer will be mailed to the party to whom animal was sold and records made accordingly, showing the transaction made in the Association Stud Book.
It is well worth One Dollar, the price of registration, to have your stock examined by licensed registrar to see that same is free from disqualifications, and to learn it is eligible to be registered. And besides you have a permanent mark of identification in the animal’s ear recorded in the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc., office, which in case of theft, etc., is very valuable.
Heretofore classes denoting quality have been given registrations and certificates issued accordingly but effective Jan. 1, 1926, all classes are dropped and a Standard Certificate issued to cover all registered animals. But Registrars are cautioned to see that no disqualified animal is registered by them.
Licensed Registrars of the A. R. C. B. A,
Ainscough, Jas., 979 E. 24th St.. Paterson, N. J.
Amend, N.. Rochester, N. Y.
Arnold, E. B., College Park, Georgia.
Ashton, V. M.. 744 So. Metcalf St.. Lima, Ohio.
Baker, Harry E., 1308 So. Monroe st., Muncie, Ind.
Barrett, R. J. First and Nebraska St., Sioux City, Ia.
Batcheller, H. C. 32 So. Main St., Gloversville, N. J.
Bender, Doe, 195 No. Ashley Ave.. Columbus, Ohio.
Blythe, Jas. 4401 Saline St., Pittsburgh, Pa.
Book, T. C.
Bradshaw, J. J., 715 1st Ave., Council Bluffs, Ia.
Brattain. H. L., R. R. 2, Dayton, Ohio.
Bruce, Ray V., Hood River, Oregon.
Burt, A. J. Enterprise, Oregon.
Button Kenneth P., 65 Highland Parkway, Rochester, N. Y. Carter, H. K., 7430 So. J. St., Box 174, Tacoma, Wash.
Cashman, Joseph, 35 By St., Lowell, Mass.
Clark, D. C., 926 E. 11th St., Hutchinson. Kansas.
Colvin, C. R., R. R. No. 5, Box 94, Lansing, Mich.
Conner. E. Raymond, 87 Kingston St.. Rochester, N. Y. Copeland, A. J.. 65 Butler St.. Etna, Pa.
Dean. Jas. N., Ontario, Cal.
Deichman. C. E., 1551 N. Church St., Decatur, Ill.
Dewberry, T. N., R. R. No. 1, Wichita Falls, Texas.
Dodge, W. F., 5201 South I St.. Tacoma, Wash.
Dotter, Arthur, Finch. Montana.
Douglas. Kay, Ashley, Ohio.
Fairchild, C. E., 1103 W. Douglas Ave.. Wichita. Kansas.
Fehr, John, 1302 Woodlawn Ave., Indianapolis, Ind.
Finley. A. M., Clarinda, Ia.
Flaherty. Miss N. M.. 3024 Calumet Ave., Chicago, Il1.
Foster, Frank C., Box 16, Randolph, Ohio.
Freeman, A. C. 527— Sierra Madra, Cal.
Fulk. W. H., 1115 3rd Ave., Huntington. W. Va.
f*ckia. S. J., Goodrich. No. Dakota.
Gannon. Mrs. N.. 2735 Stockton Blvd.. Sacramento, Cal.
Garfield. W. H., P. O. Box 1809, Tulsa. Okla.
Garland, W. B., R. D. No. 1, N. Canton, Ohio.
Gilbert, W. F., Maumee, Ohio.
Green, C. L., 130 Acme St.. Marrietta, Ohio.
Green, George, 1862 E. 66th St., Los Angeles, Cal.
Green, Roy A,, Warren, Ohio.
Greenwood, E., 1068 Bank St.. Victoria B. C.. Canada.
Griffin, Lewis S. J.. 812 E. Costello St., Colorado Springs, Colo. Hannah, W. A., Ontario, Cal.
Harper, Chas.. 6332 Surburban Ave., St. Louis, Mo.
Harmon, Delmar, Box 24, Napoleon, Ohio.
Hawkins, P. E., Box 544, Kerrville, Texas.
Henson, H. G., 1103 So. Marshfield Ave.. Chicago, Ill.
Hookway, George H., 7509 Osoge Ave., Cleveland, Ohio.
Howland. T. A., Route 2, Box 553, Seattle, Wash.
Hulburt, Wilson, Cooksburg. N. J.
Hustine, J. L., 2314 Pearl Ave., Fort Worth, Texas. Hutchinson. Fred, 1148 Cedar Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio.
Jayne, Geo. H.. Elmsford, N. Y.
Justus. J. H., 1020 So. La Fayette St., Fort Wayne, Ind.
Kerr, Dr. E., 210 Care Bldg.. Independence, Mo.
King, J. L., Ottumwa, Ia.
Leach, F. N., 88 Spring St., Stoneham, Mass.
Locke, Otto M., New Braumfels, Texas.
Loose. Geo. H., 35 Bond St., Astabula, Ohio.
MacDonald. E., 539 Cassiar St., Vancouver, B. C., Canada. Mackay, William, 269 4th Ave., Swift Current Sask, Canada. Marks, C. B., Grant’s Pass, Oregon.
Mayer. David L.. 578 8th Ave., New York, N. Y.
McCully, Jesse. North Lewisburg, Ohio.
McGee, B., 330 Powers Bldg.. Grand Rapids, Mich.
Mieras. Dennis. 119 Grove St.. N. E. Grand Rapids, Mich.
Mull. C. H., R. R. No. 1, Box 189, Redondo Beach, Cal.
Parry. Wm., 1041 Perre St.. Cincinnati, Ohio.
Petry, Geo. M.. 760 W. 97 St., Los Angeles, Cal.
Philpott, Roy S.. Newman, I11.
Pike, Mrs. Floyd R., 747 N . Clarinda St., Anahein, Cal.
Powell, Henry W., 923 Alaska Bldg., Seattle, Wash.
Powers, Senior P., Ontario, Cal.
Priest, R., La Villi, Wis.
Reeder V. C., Box 250, Fairmont. Mo.
Reid, J.. 44 No. 6 West Salt Lake City. Utah.
Reitz, Joseph. Dubois. Pa.
Renner. A. R., Box 595 Klamath Falls, Oregon.
Reynolds, H. W., 764 Lawrence St.. Eugene, Oregon.
Rice. H. S.. Hillyard, Wash.
Richmond. C. M., Shreveport, La.
Richter, John, 81 Main St., No. Plymouth, Mass.
Salisbury, Lewis H., 979 Marengo Ave., Pasadena. Cal. Scharf, J. Hathway, 74 Stager St., Nutley, N. J.
Schultz, W. F., 30 So. Newberry St., Cuyaboga Falls, Ohio. Scott, Robt. R., 4255 Roanin St.. Philadelphia. Pa.
Sharp Clarence P., 1522 Brogdon Ave., Pueblo, Colo.
Shrode, D. L. 705 So. 12th St., Salem, Oregon.
Simpson, J. E., 3525 W. 39 Ave., Denver, Colo.
Stahl. Ed. H., Holmes Park, Mo.
Steinkehler, Ed., 1228 N. 14 St. Springfield, I11.
Stockdale, Harry R., 301 E. Cross St.. Ypsilanto, Mich.
Storms, Reed, R . R. 4, Welloun, Kansas City. Kansas.
Stump, A. W., Red Hill. Pa.
Sudebotham. L. R., Iowa City. Ia.
Taylor, I. W., Station E., Box 3. Atlanta. Ga.
Vance, Al W., 2435 So. 5th, East Salt Lake City, Utah. VanSlyke, R. N.. Sioux Falls, S. D.
Wasche, J. A., Bluffton, Minn.
Weygandt, A., 7408, Normal Ave., Chicago. I11.
Wohlauf, E.. 1944 E. Muineba St., St. Paul, Minn. Woolly. C., 2895 Inlet Drive, Victoria B. C., Canada. Williamson, Paul, Albuqurque. N. M.
Witt. Fred. T., R. R. 1. Clintonville, Wis.
Yarberry. R. C., Guyman, Okla.
Zapusheck. John, 905 Humbolt St.. Peoria, I11.
Zimmerman. Alfred, P. O. Box 1332, Mobile. Ala.
Licensed Judges of the A. R. C. B . A.
Adams, Chas. J., 525 East Munsen St.. Dennison. Texas.
Ardrey, W. J., 5087 Arlington. St. Louis. Mo.
Ashton, V. N., 744 So. Metcalf St,, Lima, Ohio.
Barrett, R. J., 1st and Nebraska Sts. Sioux City, Ia.
Blythe, Jas, 4401, Saline St., Pittsburgh. Pa.
Boden, P. E.. 1108 No. 13th St., Springfield, I11.
Book. T. C., 425 W. 52 St.. Los Angeles. Cal.
Brattain, W. L., R. R. No. 2, Dayton, Ohio.
Carter. H. K., Box 174, Tacoma. Wash.
Colvin, C. R., R. R. No. 5, Box 94, Lansing, Michigan.
Conway, Joseph L., 441 No. Second St.. Allentown. Pa.
Copeland. J. A., 65, Butler St., Etna, Pa.
Dewberry, T. N., R. D. No. 1, Wichita Falls. Texas.
Dodge, W. ., 5201 So. I Street, Tacoma, Wash.
Fairchild, C. E,, 1103 W. Douglas Ave.. Wichita, Kansas.
Fehr. John C., 1302 Woodlawn Ave., Indianapolis, Ind.
Fletcher, R. L., 711 Daulphin St., Mobile, Ala.
Foster, F. C., Box 16, Randolph, Ohio.
French, W. A., 3628 Sannich Road. Victoria B. C., Canada.
Frey, Karl M.. 701 E. 4th St., Pueblo, Colo.
Garland. W. B. R„ D. No. 1, Canton, Ohio.
Gilbert. W. F., Maumee, Ohio.
Griffin, Louis S. J.. 812 East Costella St.. Colorado Springs, Colo. Harper, Chas.. 6332 Surburban Ave., St. Louis, Mo.
Hickford, John S.. Seven Oaks, Victoria B. C,, Canada.
Hookway, Geo. H., 7509 Osoge Ave., Cleveland, Ohio.
Kerr. C. W,, Dennison. Texas.
Loose, G. H., 35 Bond St., Astabula. Ohio.
Mack. Donald E., 3645 Dundee St., Vancouver, B. C., Canada. McCulIy, Jesse, North Lewisburg, Ohio.
Mieras, Dennis, 119 Grove St., N. E. Grand Rapids. Mich. Needham. John. 2606 Mayfair Ave.. Seattle, Wash.
Pinneo. C. R., 328 Lifelong Bldg.. Omaha Neb.
Renner. A. R. Klamath Falls, Oregon.
Richter. John, 81 Main St., N. Plymouth. Mass.
Salisburry, Lewis H., 979 Marengo Ave., Pasadena, Cal.
Schultz, W. F., 30 So. Newberry St., Cuyobogo Falls, Ohio.
Schultze, Oscar F., 39 Main St., Norwalk, Conn.
Scott. Robt., 4255 Roamin St., Philadelphia, Pa.
Sharp, C. P., 409 Acero St., Pueblo, Colo.
Stahl. Edwin H., Holmes Park, Mo.
Steitz, August, 625 N. 7th St,, Allentown. Pa.
Storms, Reed B., R. R. No. 4, Welbourn, Kansas City, Kansas. Stoner, M., Wichita, Kansas.
Stump, A. M., New Castle, Pa.
Vance, Al. W., 2435 So. 5th, East Salt Lake City, Utah. Weygandt. A., 7408 Normal Ave.. Chicago. I11.
Witt, Fred T., R. R. 1, Box 106, Clintonville, Wis. Woolly, Chas., 2895 Inlet Drive, Victoria B. C., Canada.
South Dakota Rabbit & Cavy Breeders’ Association. Dr. L. L. Dunn, Secretary, Harris-burg. So. Dakot.
St. Louis Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association. R. J. Bernhardt, Secretary, 5457 Claxon Ave., St. Louis, Mo.
National Rabbit Breeders Association of California. Mrs. N. Gannon, Secretary, 2785 Stockton Blvd., Sacremento, Cal.
Klamath Rabbit Breeders Association. H. R. Milner, Secretary, Box 614, Klamath Falls, Oregon.
Colorado Rabbit Meat & Fur Farm Association. Mrs. L. H. Wells, Secretary, 612 Mead St., Denver, Colorado.
Orange County Mutual Rabbit Breeders Association. Clyde S. Williams, Secretary, 331 So. Kroeger St., Anheim, California.
National Belgian Hare Club of America. P. E. Hawkins, Secretary. Box 544, Kerrville, Texas.
American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association of Puget Sound. W. S. Mix, Secretary, R. F. D. No. 1, Olympia, Washington.
Utah Rabbit Breeders Association. A. L. Vance, Secretary, 2435 So. 5 E. Salt Lake City, Utah.
The Boundry Rabbit & Pet Stock Association. S. B. Lawrence, Secretary, Grand Fork B. C., Canada.
The Alberta Rabbit Breeders Association. Mrs. R. H. Berry, Secretary, 1115 7th Ave., W. Calgary, Canada.
The Canton Rabbit & Cavy Club. H. C. Foltz, Secretary, 516 Sippo St., Massillion Ohio.
Capitol City Rabbit Breeders Association. Ed. Steinkuehler, Secretary, 1228 No. 14th St., Springfield, 111.
Maumee Poultry & Pet Stock Association. A. B. Metcalf, Secretary, Maumee. Ohio.
Spokane Rabbit Breeders Association. C. S. Norman, Secretary 2418 E. 3rd Ave., Spokane, Washington.
The Havana Club. C. H. Brown, Secretary, 1362 Getz St., South Akron, Ohio.
The Southwestern Domestic Rabbit Club. S. B. Miller, Secretary, 1009 E. Allen Ave., Fort Worth, Texas.
Midwest Rabbit & Cavy Club. V. C. Reeder, Secretary, 4234 Crittendon Ave., Kansas City, Mo.
Lorain County Rabbit & Cavy Association. J. C. Hazelton, Secretary, Elyvia, Ohio.
Greater Cincinnati Rabbit Breeders & Fanciers Association. Clyde Ousler, Secretary, Cambridge A Sutton Sts., Cincinnati. Ohio.
Associated Rabbit Breeders of Southern California. C. R. Conway. Secretary, 653 Pennsylvania Ave., Riverside, California.
Mid Columbian Branch American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association. R. V. Bruce, Secretary. Hood River, Oregon.
The Akron Rabbit & Cavy Club. F. C. Foster, Secretary, 514 Brown St., Akron, Ohio.
The B, C. Provincial Rabbit Breeders Association Victoria Local No. 11. F. P. Boucher, Secretary 627 Monterey Ave.. Victoria. Vancouver Island B. C., Canada.
San Diego County Rabbit Breeders Association. R. B. Whitcomb, Secretary, 667 Spre-ckels Building. San Diego, California.
Tacoma Branch of The American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association. W. M. Lewis, Secretary. Core of A. G. O. of Washington, Camp Lewis. Washington.
Fort Wayne Rabbit & Pet Stock Association. Henry Meuze, Secretary, Fort Wayne, Ind.
Syracuse Breeders Club. E. A. Hackford, Secretary, Marcellus, New York.
American Federation of New Zealand Breeders. V. C. Reeder, Secretary, 4234 Critter-don Ave., Kansas City, Mo.
Flint Poultry & Pet Stock Association. R, E. Wisler, Secretary, 1540 N. Saginaw St., Flint. Michigan.
Associated Rabbit Breeders of Southern California. W. H. Bixler, Secretary, Pomona, California.
American Rabbit A Cavy Breeders Association of Chicago. Mrs. Ethel Weygandt, S retary, 7408 Normal Ave., Chicago, 111.
National Federation of Flemish Giant Breeders. Lewis Griffin, Secretary, 812 E. Costello St., Colorado Springs. Colorado.
Great Lakes Rabbit & Pet Stock Club. John Welmers, Secretary. 820 Humboldt St., Grand Rapids. Michigan.
The American Checkered Giant Club. Chas. Weirick, Secretary. 711 Hazelett Ave., West Canton. Ohio.
The American Chinchilla Breeders Association. Ed. Stahl. Secretary. Holmes Park. Mo. Pikes Peak Rabbit & Cavy Association. W. C. Morray, Secretary. 2917 W. Platt Ave.. Colorado Springs. Colorado.
Pueblo Rabbit & Cavy Club. Clarence Sharp. Secretary, 1522 Bragdon Ave., Pueblo. Colo. Southern California Rabbit & Pet Stock Association. Geo. Green. Secretary. 1852 E. 69th. St., Los Angeles. California.
Wichita County Rabbit Breeders Association. W. L. Smith. Secretary, 103 Waco St,, Wichita Falls, Texas.
United Rabbit & Cavy Club of Mass.. Inc., Boston, Mass.
The National Rabbit Breeders & Fanciers Association of Sioux Falls, So. Dakota. R. N. Van Slyke, Secretary.
Huntington Poultry Exhibit Co. C. J. Gould, Secretary. P. O. Box 101, Huntington, W. Va. Northern California Rabbit Breeders Association. Evelyn C. Baker, Secretary, 2410 Weller Way, Sacramento, California.
Los Angeles County Fair Association. Geo. W. Cobb, Secretary, Pomona, California. National Breeders & Fanciers Association of Peoria. Earl Morrison, Secretary, 518 No. Perry Ave., Peoria.
Hasting Poultry & Pet Stock Association. L. H. Steinworth. Secretary, Ardsley on Hudson. New York.
Northern Jersey Rabbit Breeders Association. J. Aincough, Secretary, 919 E. St. Patterson, New Jersey.
Wolverine Rabbit & Cavy Association of Detroit. Geo. Rinke, Secretary. 1531 Jct. Ave., Detroit, Michigan.
Kalamazoo Rabbit & Pet Stock Association. L. Houtcamp, Secretary, 212 No. Rose St., Kalamazoo. Michigan.
By A. Weygandt
About the first question of importance that confronts the beginner when thinking of starting in the rabbit business is—“What Breed Shall I Select?” This is rather a perplexing question to many and is worthy of much thought and while one should consider the object for which he will breed rabbits, he should also remember that there is a possibility of success in any and all breeds if managed properly. I demonstrated this to my own satisfaction several years ago when I began breeding rabbits and know this to be a fact.
Usually the beginners first question is—What Breed is the Best, and Most Profitable?”
Being possessed of rather an inquisitive disposition and seeking a breed to experiment on, I visited several shows and my question was not what is the best breed, but the most unprofitable and poorest breed of rabbit in existance. From what I could learn from the various breeders the "Angora” was the breed I was looking for and they could not be sold or given away. (This was before angora wool became so valuable).
This was just what I wanted and purchased three does and a buck supposed to be fair specimens of the breed. But later on found they were far from being a Standard Bred Angora, and here is where I began to
“Get Busy."
One year went by and not much improvement, two and three and I began to find a decided improvement over my original stock and sales also were being made at a reasonable price and after five years I possessed stock that was a credit to the breed and a good demand for all produced.
So from the above experience, and the experience of others, I suggest that the beginner choose the breed which most appeals to him and he will make a success with it. Of course there are certain exceptions to this rule, but nine out of ten, in doing this will make no mistake.
Occasionally you will hear a breeder remark—this or that breed is “No Good,” but we have many cases of where one will drop a breed condemning it as unprofitable, while another will breed the same variety for years and find them a success in every particular and profitable. So our contention is that there is GOOD in ALL BREEDS and one must remember that the breed is not always at fault but success in rabbit raising not only depends on the BREED but the BREEDER, HOUSING and CARE of the rabbits.
A short description with illustrations of various breeds follows. See Standards for fuller description.
One of our most beautiful rabbits and until recent years considered a purely Fancy Variety, but now one of our leading commercial varieties account of the great value of the wool which it produces.
The Angora on this account should be classed as a “Wool Rabbit” and not a fur rabbit as referred to by some writers.
The rabbit originated in the early 50s in Persia, in the same district where the Angora goat made its appearance and was later imported

Angora Doe
to France and England and the United States. They are bred in white, blue, black or "smoke” and fawns.
The Angora is not only a beautiful exhibition rabbit, but a useful and profitable rabbit to raise on account of the valuable wool produced.
This is a new breed having just been admitted to our Standard at our last Convention held at Colorado Springs, Nov. 30, Dec. 5, 1925.
(Courtesy W. R. Garland) American Silver Giant
The Silver Giant was originated by that veteran Rabbit Breeder, Mr, W. B. Garland of N. Canton, Ohio, and promises to be one of the leading commercial breeds as they produce a beautiful fur of good quality and their size is sufficient to make them a good producer of meat at an early age. At present they are bred in Grays and Blues, but in time the other two colors will probably be perfected as I understand the originator has them well on the way to perfection at this writing.
Strictly an American production the American Blue might be termed the “Plymouth Rock” of the rabbit family.
The American Blue with its medium size and quick development along with its fur producing qualities makes it a good general purpose breed and also a profitable one.
(Courtesy Lewis H. Salisbury) American Blue Buck
They were first exhibited by Mr. Lewis H. Salisbury of Pasadena, Calif., about 1917, and have been bred quite extensively in the United States for several years past.
They are good breeders and the does make excellent mothers and this with their beautiful blue color make them an ideal meat and fur rabbit.
Generally speaking the name Belgian Hare is more generally known to the public than the name of any other rabbit and often applied to all breeds of domestic rabbits by many people who are not familiar with our domestic breeds.
This is due to it being an old variety and also the great publicity it received due to extensive advertising during the Belgian Hare boom several years ago.
The Belgian is a useful variety and also one of our leading exhibition rabbits. The Belgian Breeders being more liberal and giving us two types to breed from.
One the “Racy" fine boned exhibition type and the other the “Heavy Weight" or commercial type.
(Courtesy Fur and Feather) Belgian Hare Buck
The exhibition type has its many admirers and the Heavy Weight type are valuable for commercial purposes.
One of our most beautiful and useful varieties of rabbits having originated in Germany many years ago and while not as extensively bred as
Black Checkered Giant Buck
(Courtesy W. B. Garland)
same varieties it possesses the qualities to make it one of our leading com-mercial varieties as well as a beautiful exhibition rabbit.
While classed as a GIANT it is not as large as the FLEMISH GIANT, but large enough to be attractive and to produce youngsters at a remarkable weight at an early age.
Its beautiful color markings contrasting with its large white body make it very attractive and an exhibit at any show always attracts attention.
It also produces a beautiful fur and same can be used in its natural colors which makes it profitable as a fur rabbit. It is bred in the following colors, Black, Blue, Tortoise and Gray.
A self blue rabbit of the darker blue color and while not of large size, it is considered a good fur rabbit and the skin can be used in the natural color.
Blue Imperial Buck
The Imperials are about the size of the English but more of a Belgian type.
They are hardy and the does make good mothers and have a gentle disposition.
The Beverens are not only one of the leading Fur Rabbits, but large enough to make a good meat rabbit also placing them on a sound commercial basis.
Blue Beveren Buck
(Courtesy Edwin H. Stahl)
Imported White Beveren Doe
They are bred in Blues and Whites and their skins can be used in the natural state which is an important matter when selecting a fur rabbit.
The Blues also possess a beautiful shade of color that makes them very attractive and their skins with this color and their good quality of fur are quite valuable.
The Whites also possess the same quality of fur and their color make them equally attractive and valuable.
At the present time this rabbit is enjoying much publicity and the demand for breeding stock far exceeds the supply. Like many other breeds its origin seems to be clouded to a certain extent, but it appears
(Courtesy John C. Fehr)
Chinchilla Buck
to have originated in Serbia in the year 1917, then introduced into France and England and later many specimens have been imported to the United States and Canada.
One cause of its popularity is that it produces fur that is a good imitation of the real chinchilla fur, which is very scarce and valued very highly.
The original Chinchilla rabbit is rather small weighing from 5 to 7 lbs., but the breeders are perfecting a larger type. The Heavyweight
Chinchilla Buck (Courtesy Edwin H. Stahl)
Chinchillas weigh 9 to 10 lbs. in order to make them more profitable as a meat rabbit.
Whether or not this can be done and yet retain the valuable fur
American Giant Chinchilla 44
(Courtesy Edwin H. Stahl)
qualities of the smaller animal yet remains to be seen. The color of the Chinchilla Rabbit should be as near the original Chinchilla animal as possible.
Another of our fur breeds and also profitable as a meat rabbit account of size, mature specimens weighing from 7 to 9 pounds.
This variety also known as the “French Silver” originated in France over fifty years ago, and one of the oldest breeds and it is to be regretted that more of them are not bred in the United States as they are a
(Courtesy W. B. Garland) Champaign De Argent Buck
beautiful, as well as a useful animal for commercial purposes and are hardy and a good breeder. The skins can also be used and make beautiful furs in their natural state which is of a great advantage to any breed.
In color they are of a silver or to resemble an old silver coin and not the dark shade as some prefer to breed for.
One of our oldest breeds of domestic rabbits and for several years considered one of the leading fancy rabbits in England where competition at the leading shows was keen and individual specimens of exceptional quality sold at high prices.
Today there are not many of them bred in the United States but they are hardy and productive and the does make the best of mothers and might justly be called the “Jersey” of the rabbit family for they are producers of milk and make excellent nurse does.
(Courtesy Fur and Feather)
Dark Grey Dutch Buck
Dutch are not large and are bred in Black, Gray, Yellow and Tor-toise.
Black Dutch(Courtesy W. H. Blair)
One of the oldest breeds of rabbits and considered one of the most interesting to breed from a Fanciers standpoint as there is a fascination connected with the breeding of the English that is hard to overcome when one gets to breeding them.
To get the correct markings is no easy task and one can feel he has accomplished something when he produces a prize winner. The English skins make beautiful furs in natural colors as they are bred in Black Blue, Gray and Tortoise.
English Buck
Courtesy Fur and Feather)
The Flemish Giant as the name indicates is the largest breed of rabbit in existence and originated in the early Sixties and were bred from
(Courtesy Lewis S. J. Griffin) Gray Flemish Buck—Good Type
the Old Patigonian Rabbit originating in Flanders, a district in the Southern part of Belgium many years ago.
The first Flemish as bred in Flanders was a big loose built, big bellied rabbit with heavy slouching ears and differed very much from the present day Flemish, which is squarely and firmly built and a beautiful specimen to look upon.

The Old Patigonian Rabbit
Just where the Old Patigonian Rabbit received its name no one seems to know as it did not originate in Patigonia as many are led to believe. They were bred for market purposes for many years in the Flanders district and specimens can yet be found in this district, but generally show an improvement over the old type.
Dark Steel Flemish Doe—Good Type
The Dark Steel Grays and Blacks as a rule are not bred to produce their color but one can expect youngsters of all three colors in one litter.
Black Flemish Buck
The colors, of course, are a matter of choice and the Flemish furnish several for the breeder to select from.
White Flemish Doe—Good Type
They are a good meat and fur rabbit and also make a good exhibition rabbit and are bred in Steel, Sandy, and Light Gray, also Black, Whites, Blues and Silver Blacks or Silver Tips.
However, a few breeders have made good progress in building up a strain that will breed true to color and this is a step in the right direction.
Silver Tip Flemish Buck(Courtesy H. K. Carter)
The Silver Tip is not bred extensively in the U. S. but are a beautiful color if bred properly and produce a valuable pelt for fur.
This along with their meat production make them a good commercial rabbit. Most of the Silver Tip Flemish Breeders are found on the Northwest coast in Oregon and Washington.
Blue Flemish Doe—Good Type
The Blue and White Flemish breed true to color and make good commercial rabbits.
They are not quite as large as the Sandy Grays but large enough to produce youngsters for meat purposes at an early age and also make an attractive exhibition rabbit.
One of the most beautiful fur breeds and a very useful rabbit for their skins require no dying but can be used in the natural state as the rich Chocolate color is very attractive and there is a good demand for these skins at all times.
Havana Buck
The standard weight of the Havana was increased at our last Convention which is a step farther to make the breed a great commercial rabbit.
Havanas are bred in one color only but require skill in breeding to produce stock ideal in color, but it is well worth the breeders effort when he finds himself successful.
This attractive little rabbit is said to have originated in the Himalyan mountains hence its name, and is also called the Russian Rabbit at times.
Many are found in China and at present the Himalyan is bred in nearly all European countries and a few in the U. S. It’s white body with
Himalayan Buck and Doe
dense Black markings make it very attractive and its fur is valuable. Weight about 5 lbs.
Lilacs are one of our fur breeds and while not large are of a very attractive color and originated in England where they have been bred
Lilac Buck
since 1922. They are about the size of English and are of a pinky dove color.
Their coat is not a “fly back” coat but lies close to the body.
This breed can justly be called an American Rabbit and while its origin like most others is rather “clouded” there is no doubt but the
A Good New Zealand Red Doe
American Breeders made the rabbit what is today regardless of where the first specimens came from.
The New Zealands are bred in Reds and Whites and are a medium weight rabbit and a good commercial variety being a good meat producer and furnishing a pelt that is also valuable.
They are of an Orange Buff color and make a beautiful exhibition rabbit and their furs make up well in the natural color.
The White New Zealand is coming to the front as a Fur Rabbit and like their Red Cousins make a good meat rabbit.
(Courtesy T. A. Howland)
White New Zealand Buck
This is the "Bantam” of the rabbit family and a very attractive little rabbit with its short ears and short chubby body covered with its pure white coat of fur it always attracts the attention in the show room.
Polish Buck
There is very few of them bred in the United States at present but they should receive the breeder’s attention for they produce a fur of fine texture and good quality.
Another of the promising Fur Breeds but only a few in this country and Canada. The English Breeders in some sections are quite enthusias-tic over them claiming much for them as a fur breed.
(Courtesy Mrs. W. A. French
Argent Creme Buck
For many years the Lop was considered one of the leading fancy rabbits of England and several years ago quite a number were bred in
English Lop Buck
the United States but today the number of good Lops is limited.
One cannot help but admire a good animal, and they always attract attention wherever exhibited. They are bred in both solid and broken colors.
This wonderful little animal, though not as extensively bred in this country as in former years is a very valuable fur rabbit and there is a great demand for their skins in the natural colors.
The body or ground color being Black or Blue with tan markings makes them a very attractive rabbit and therefore are one of our leading breeds for exhibition purposes.
Black and Tan Buck
Their fine bone and also fine meat make them suitable for a meat rabbit, where ones requirements are for a small family.
Though called the Japanese there is no definite proof that this rabbit originated in Japan.
In conversation with a native last Fall he stated he never saw one in Japan.
Japanese Ruck
But regardless of where they originated they are a good fur and meat rabbit and its color gives it a striking appearance. The color is black and yellow running in stripes around the body, the brighter the colors the better.
This rabbit which is about the size of the Beveren promises to be one of the leading fur and meat rabbits and has been called by some a blac Beveren, but it is a distinct breed from the Beveren and its jet
Sitka Buck
(Courtesy Fur and Feather)
black Beveren, but it is a distinct breed from the Beveren and its jet large enough to make it a valuable meat producer.
They are bred in black only and the genuine Sitkas possess fur of one and one-half inches in length which easily distinguishes them from other black rabbits.
These beautiful little rabbits are one of the oldest breeds and are very attractive and a great fur rabbit producing furs that can be used in natural colors and very valuable.
Silver Gray Buck (Light Shade)
They are bred in Grays, Fawns and Browns. The grays come in dark medium and light colors and while the light grays are greatly admired, breeders should hold to the medium shade.
(Courtesy Fur and Feather)
Silver Fawn Doe
The Fawns are a beautiful and useful fur rabbit and the color should be a deep bright Orange shade extending as far down toward the skin as possible and color should be even all over the animal. Do not use an animal for breeding with a reddish or gray tinge for this is what the breeders must avoid in breeding for color.
(Courtesy W. G. Claypool)
Rabbit raising is one of the most wonderful opportunities for honest, live wire men, women, boys and girls to engage in. It is clean, profitable and permanent. The sales possibilities are great and unlimited. You don’t have to look for prospects, they are around you all the time. But you must start right—show that you mean business and do things to install public confidence. Please remember this.
No matter in what channel you desire to express your activities
you must recognize there are ESSENTIAL TO SUCCESS—they are known as FUNDAMENTALS which must be considered and acted upon at all times. Bear this also in mind as that will ensure a RIGHT BEGINNING which is of great importance.
What are these fundamentals or the corner stones of success?
To treat your customer as you would expect him to treat you
You may sum up these cardinal principles in the terms of HONESTY AND A SINCERE DESIRE FOR WORK plus determination to SUCCESS. If you do this YOU ARE BOUND TO SUCCEED. This is practical advice as it comes from ACTUAL EXPERIENCE.
It takes but a few dollars and a little space in your back yard Or lot, or on the farm, plus common sense to start this enterprise. If yon are not privileged to already have access to a barn or other small out-building, it will take but a few common boards, boxes and nails to construct a place suitable to house your rabbits, and, from time time, as the business grows you can build additions to your rabbitry and make whatever improvenemts you deem necessary. All this will come to you by reason of your growing experience. Do not make a mistake by trying to raise rabbits in small soap or apple boxes; cramped space will spell failure.
On account of the fact that a rabbit will eat anything a cow or sheep will eat, and that it is a small animal and is easily fed and cared for, you can see that it takes but a few minutes morning and evening to feed and water the stock, and say half an hour or so once or twice a week to do the cleaning. Your experience will prove that it is very easy and offers a great source of pleasure. This can be done in town or in the country since the rabbit is an animal very readily acclimatized to hot or cold climates.
Boys, and girls, as well as men and women, in all parts of the country are doing well in the raising of rabbits. This is just as much your opportunity as theirs. No matter what your occupation is, this offers you a profitable sideline. People in all walks of life are raising rabbits; doctors, lawyers, school teachers, ministers and other pro-fessional men and women, as well as farmers, poultrymen, mechanics, laborers, etc. IT IS EVERYBODY’S OPPORTUNITY—This means it is yours! Practically everybody loves some sort of animal; rabbits are usually loved, and that’s why people take to them so freely, and always find ready markets for the offspring. Women in particular make a success of the business; many of them do it because they raise the rabbit for its fur, and then make fur garments for themselves as well as to sell to their neighbors and friends.
Selecting the Stock
Having made up your mind in a definite way to raise rabbits, your next move is in the selection of stock. This is the second of the basic fundamentals. Our advice is GET THE BEST. It is far better to invest in one or two of the best specimens than a dozen common rabbits known as “scrubs.” It costs no more to raise the good ones. You will find it much more profitable to produce and sell stock raised from a few of the best kind, than you would if you were raising plenty of the common ones. PEOPLE ALWAYS WANT THE BEST their money can buy and that is where you will ALWAYS FIND A READY MARKET. In purchasing your stock, you will act wisely if you get them
from established breeders who sell registered stock, or those eligible to register. These breeders are always willing to help the novice with profitable advice, which means a whole lot to a new beginner. If possible, buy registered animals, as that kind of rabbit stands for quality and “quality always counts” in valuation, then your sales will be profitable in every instance because if your guarantee of “quality” backed up by registration certificates. If you are not sufficiently acquainted with the rabbit world to know who is raising registered stock and is reliable, an inquiry addressed to the Secretary of the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association will bring the necessary information to you. It is also well to bear in mind to buy rabbits from a breeder in good standing with one or more of the rabbit associations because in the case of dissatisfaction or an unfair dealing, it is much easier to remedy through an association’s secretary acting as intermediary than between the parties themselves when it looks like as if they cannot come to an agreement, or that one party has taken advantage of the other. Misunderstandings are cleared up that way, and it creates a better feeling between all interested parties and protects the welfare of the industry as well.
Let us agree that you have the best stock to start in with. Now we will proceed further.
You Must Have a Love for Rabbits
In other words, taking care of the stock must be a source of pleasure to you and not tiresome and boresome. If it does not afford joy and satisfaction, there is something wrong with YOU; for having the right kind of stock at the start there cannot be anything wrong with them. Then the fault is on YOUR side and it is time for you to ask yourself the question “Do I love rabbits?” Decide whether you do or do not. If you do, then it is all right—Go ahead! you’ll soon get to like it. But if you don’t love rabbits, then the sooner you get out of the business the better it will be for you and for the industry. Bear this in mind, as it is a lesson you should well learn. There is JUST ONE WAY in which to do a thing if you want to SUCCEED and that is THE RIGHT WAY. Carelessness and indifference are allied with failure. Take care you don’t ally yourself with these weaknesses.
A world of experience in the raising of rabbits could here be related showing many ups and downs. For your guidance, we will but mention one or two instances, thus you may profit by them and avoid such errors and failure. Hired help can not always be depended upon. Some of them are careless and indifferent, and we will tell you how these fellows place their jobs in jeopardy.
Cause of Failure. This is where a man is hired; he works like a machine He gos from hutch ti hutch and places the same quantity of feed and water in every hutch without the slightest consideration as to how many rabbits there are in each compartment. This man simply thinks of “feeding” and “watering” and he doesn’t stop to consider that two, three, four or more rabbits in a hutch should have more feed and water than where there is one rabbit only. Again, he treats a doe with a litter the same. All he knows and all he wants to know is that he is through with feeding and watering the stock and the quicker it is done, the better he is satisfied. He doesn’t love animals; he thinks to himself a rabbit is a rabbit, and that’s all he cares about. He fails to understand that a rabbit can get hungry and thirsty; he doesn’t think that a doe with a litter of youngsters needs extra care; he doesn’t think that a mother doe must have plenty of bedding, additional feed. etc. Oh no! that sort of attendant has his mind on quitting time and “pay day," and that day can never come soon enough for him. He thinks of the money, and never thinks of what service he has rendered for his pay and whether he earned it or not. That fellow would like to have
365 pay days every year and “everything else can go to the dogs,” it were. Can you imagine a fellow like that? We can—we not only imagine it, but we know there are such men. A good many of them wonder why they do not succeed. It takes but a little bit of common sense to know why, it is because they ignore the fundamentals of suc-cess and are always “laying down on their job.” These are the kind of fellows that rabbit industry can do without; they do more harm than good to the general well-being of the business. They are better “out" than “in.” Moral—Take heed of what this lesson teaches. It needs no further comment.
No doe should be bred until she is 8 months old, and no buck should be used for service till he is of the same age. This is the belief and practice generally in rabbitdom, though there are a few breeders here and there who believe that a doe can be bred at a younger age. That may be so, but if you want healthy and the best of stock, the best policy to pursue is the 8-months-old, so far as the breeding age of the rabbits is concerned. Few rabbits mature under 8 months of age. The smaller breeds can be bred at 4 to 6 months of age
After service, the doe is due to litter in thirty days. At the time she should have plenty of feed and water before her, also provide for her a nice warm box with plenty of hay or other nesting material. See that she is properly attended in this respect. Should the litter consist of more than six, it is advisable to give the surplus above six to nurse doe if you have so provided; if not, then it will pay you to see what kind of a litter there is, and cull out the weaklings and destroy them. If your doe has six youngsters to care for, that is plenty, as you can then expect her to raise them nicely and in healthy and growing condition. Don’t think you are losing money in getting rid of surplus. ‘You are not; it is much better to raise five or six good youngsters than to raise more than that of weaklings which will never amount to any-thing, and perhaps give you a lot of trouble. Moral—Raise few, the you raise the best.
You always like to see a dean home, don’t you? We all do. Well your rabbits also need a “clean home,” and as they are unable to do it themselves, that is YOUR JOB and it should be done at least once week, all the better if you can do it two or three times, It only takes a few minutes to do this each time; will not only be beneficial to the health of your stock, but will give you credit as well for attending such an important matter in the welfare of your business.
When one considers the tremendous importance of the rabbit relation to the commercial life of our nation, especially by way of food and for fur, THERE IS A BIG FUTURE FOR THE RABBIT. As you grow in the business you will learn more and more in this connection of the time, which should spur you on to greater ambition so as to help develope one of the BIGGEST COMMERCIAL ENTERPRISES IN THE FUTURE OF AMERICA. We refer to the RABBIT INDUSTRY. Space forbids us to go into the “why” and the “wherefore” of it at this time However, as we have said, every day you are in the business will give you a broader vision as to the potentialities of the enterprise. Stick it—in time, you’ll find it a bigger thing than you ever dreamed of.
A Very Good Shipping Crate
In seeking and working for success your mind should be centered on the industry; then you will be working for the interest of others as well as for your own—which makes it better for everybody. You should contribute an article once in a while to your local newspaper and other publications. Publicity in that connection will bear a whole lot of weight for the future success of the industry, and indirectly you benefit as well by reason of giving such publicity. This is an advertising age, and every well-written article telling of actual experiences with rabbits will do much to influence other people to raise rabbits.
Be fair, spuare, open and above board at all times; be true to yourself. The policy of success is one of right doing. You will find that the industry will offer its drawbacks, but that is not due to any wilful misconduct or such like on the part of some breeders, but rather due to ignorance or lack of knowledge as to the proper thing to do. If you
Chinchilla Buck Bred by John C. Fehr
do all you can to help others as well as look after your own interests you will be surprised at the wonderful progressive influence it bears, and being general in its application will mean a great deal for the welfare of the rabbit industry in general.
To the novice we repeat GET THE BEST THAT MONEY CAN BUY. Insist that you know the age, weight and quality of the stock you are buying. If you are not familiar with the standard requirements for proper specimens, all you have to do is to write to the Secertary of the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Association, who will supply you with necessary information as to Standards, etc., of each of the various breeds. A RIGHT START IS HALF WAY TO SUCCESS.
In all of your business dealings whether buying or selling, be true. Mis-statements lead to misunderstanding and sometimes lots of trouble All of this can be avoided by being true to yourself and true to the other fellow. Don’t forget to use the advertising columns of publications when you want to buy or sell stock. Publicity in that connection is worth lots to your business success. By advertising your name is known in all parts of the country, whereas, if you confine your business and your sales locally, you may not get so far ahead, so always figure to add some publicity to your business as occasion may require in branching out. Of course, you must not neglect to advertise in your own locals. Very often a breeder can establish a mighty fine business in his town and make the enterprise just as large as he wants to. THAT IS UP TO YOU. If at first you do not find ready sales in your city or town, or other place where you are located, don’t conclude hastily that people don’t want rabbits. The fact is, they need education up to the fact as to the UTILITY OF THE RABBIT. Your business is to do that educating. Before you started raising rabbits, others had to educate you to the possibilities of the business. Now it’s your turn to EDUCATE OTHER PEOPLE and thereby create your own markets, locally or otherwise. Tell the folk all about rabbits—what nice eating they make and what nice fur garments the skins can be used for. If you feel, like it, arrange to have space in one of the local stores, display some meat rabbits, offer some rabbit sandwitches; also display furs. In this way, you will surely create lots of local sentiment in favor of the rabbit, and you will be surprised how many sales you can make. It will keep you busy for quite a long while to raise the stock to take care of the demand. This is no idle fancy; this is REAL EXPERIENCE; THEY ARE FACTS, and we are telling them to you so that YOU CAN PROFIT THEREBY.
In selecting breeding stock, the beginner as well as the experienced breeder should consider the previous record of the rabbit to be bought. If the doe has a bad record, such as giving birth to only two or three young, or if she has failed or refused to breed as she should, she would be a poor doe to select to breed from. Some does may have several young and fail to raise them for some cause or other. They may form the habit of eating them when born, or may be careless and sit on them and kill them. It is not a question of how many young the doe may have, but how many she raises that counts. It is absolutely necessary to secure breeding stock that has a good previous record, in order to have any success in the rabbit industry.
Selecting the breeding stock for a rabbitry is a very interesting part of the business. One should know the different points of a rabbit according to the standard for the breed selected. If the beginner is not familiar with these different points, he should secure a grade card from some good authority and study the different points until he has learned them well and can recognize these different points, or qualifications when he sees them. He should be able to recognize the disqualifications as well. If the beginner does not think he is qualified to judge a rabbit, it is advisable for him to take someone with him that is qualified. There are many commercial breeders that are perfectly reliable and trustworthy, and will help the beginner to select just what he wants. Then there are others who will take advantage of the beginner’s inex-
perience and endeavor to sell him poor stock, the noes he doesn’t want to keep himself. There are probably as many dishonest and unscrupulous men in the rabbit industry as in any other line of business. Therefore it is advisable to investigate the refutation of the breeders before purchasing.
In selecting the breeding stock, always remember that “like begets like.” If one wants large bone ,then select the largest-boned rabbit available. If you want short, chunky bodies, then select one of that type. The different breeds have their different points of standard. So in selecting the breeding one should select for as near the standard as possible. The perfect rabbit has never been attained. In judging rabbits, 100 points is considered the ideal, the same as in larger animals. The grade card previously referred to will show you the number of points allowed for each qualification. These 'qualifications are only necessary in rabbits for show purposes, or fancy stock. In selecting for utility purposes, one needs to select only for the purpose desired, i. e., if you want meat rabbits, select for quick vigorous growth. One may want certain markings in the fur and this can sometimes be attained by line breeding. It is advisable for the beginner to start with only one breed and stick to it until he has learned how to raise that breed successfully.
A rabbit breeder should be familiar with the terms used in the rabbit industry. A pure bred rabbit is one that has been bred for at least eight generations in a definite line, and with a well kept record of its ancestors. Thorough-bred is sometimes used In live stock of all kinds, such as cattle sheep, hogs etc, but it really means a running horse, that is, a race horse, while standard bred means a race horse of trotting stock. Therefore neither of these words would be proper in speaking of rabbits. Pure bred is the better word. Cross breeding means the mating of two different breeds. This is often resorted to where the breder has some certain object in view, and sometimes results in very desirable characteristics. But the beginner is not advised to resort to cross breeding if he is after any definite results. Corsss bred rabbits are not eligible to registry.
In inbreeding, closely related individuals are mated. Such as father to daughter or mother to son. It is inadvisable to mate sister with brother as the offspring is liable to be weak, besides any defects are likely to be increased. Inbreeding is line breeding in the extreme.
“Line breeding is the mating of closely related lines of descent.” The object of line breeding is to establish a certain strain, better than their ancestors, if possible. This is the method used in improving all lines of animals, live stock, poultry etc. Individuals are mated to atain certain points or characteristics, with the object of obtaining a better strain of that particular breed. The points desired are to be selected for, and the undesirable points are to be bred out. Always select strong, healthy stock for line breeding, as weak stock, whic hi snever desirable, will manifest itself in line breeding, or inbreeding much more rapidly than in stock that are not related.
It is advisable for one starting in the rabbit industry to visit shows and all the different rabbitries he can. He will learn many things in regard to breeding, selecting for different points and the care and feeding of rabbits.
In breeding rabbits, it is necessary to know when the doe is ready for service. This can generally be known by the doe stamping the floor, jumping about the hutch in a restless manner and the sexual organs become swollen and reddish in color.
The larger breeds should not be bred under 7 to 8 months of age, 8 is better. It is not advisable to breed young does the first few times they come in. As some will take the buch at a very early age, sometimes as early as four or five months. Better wait until they have attained their maturity if you expect the best results from them. The
smaller breeds can be safely bred at from 6 to7 months of age. The buck should not be used until he is 6 or 7 months old. In breeding rabbits two young the offspring are likely to be weaklings. Besides in breeding does too young you are likely to have trouble in getting them to conceive. The young buck should not be used more than two or three times the first month. Then not oftener than once a week for a month or so. After this he should never be used oftener than three times a week. Always take the doe to the buck’s hutch. Never take the buck to the doe’s hutch. She is more likely to fight in her own hutch than in others. When taking the doe to the buck's hutch, place her on the floor and watch her closely. If she runs about and tries to get away from the buck or hugs the floor remove her at once and try her again the next day and the next if necessary. Some bucks are mean to fight the doe if they are not ready for service and some does will fight the buck. For this reason it is necessary to watch them both to prevent injury. The per-iodic interval for breeding is from three to five days. If the doe is in heat, service will take place immediately, the buck will fall over on his side or back. The doe should be removed at once. One service is suffici-ent. Rabbits should not be bred during the hot summer months. Very hot weather affects rabbits especially when bred. Never have more than six young to the doe. She has only eight teats and can not nurse but eight. If she has more than this number some of them will have to go without their dinner, consequently will not be strong and vigorous as they should. They will also fail to grow as rapidly as they should at this time. If they are stunted for lack of nourishment at first, they will never attain the size and strength that they would if given a good start in life at first. Four young are better than six for most does. Some does, like cows, give more milk than others. For this reason some does will nurse eight young and bring them through in good shape while others will do better with four.
The period of gestation is 30 or 31 days. The doe should not be allowed to get too fat and shuld be kept quiet after breeding. Do not allow anything near her hutch that will frighten her. Children romp-ing and playing should never be allowed near the hutch. Dogs especially, should never be allowed near a rabbit hutch. The rabbit is a very timid animal and dogs are their natural enemy. Even though the dog be a pet, the rabbit doesn’t know it and is naturally afraid of them. If you have a doe that has more than six, and one that kindles about the same time that has less than six you can use her as a foster mother If one is raising pedigreed rabbits, he will have to keep track of the little ones so distributed. Some times it pays to kill all the young from In handling the young for any reason, one should always rub his hands In handling the young for any reason, oe should always rub his hands on the fur of the mother or the foster mother, as the case may be, to get her scent, before touching the young. The young begin to nibble the feed with their mother at about one month of age and may be placed in the weaning pen at 7 to 8 weeks of age. It is not advisable to wean the rabbits too soon after breeding the doe. Wait six or seven days before taking them from her. If taken away too soon, it tends to upset her at this time, which should be avoided.
A well kept record should be kept of every breeding rabbit and those you intend to sell as breeding stock. One can secure pedigree blanks from any rabbit publishing house for this purpose. A hutch record should be kept on every doe’s hutch. These record cards have columns for, the buck served, date served, date tested, date kindled number of young, date weaned and remarks, as well as the hutch number, ear number, name size, dam, date born, and breed of the doe It is necessary to keep these Hutch Record Cards on every hutch ant mark them properly at the proper time if you expect to make a success of the rabbit industry.
By A. Wygandt Green Food
There is so much said and written on the subject of Feeding Rabbits it often is very confusing to the beginner as the more he reads on the subject, the more confusing statements he will see and all from seemingly well experienced breeders.
One will suggest green food another states he would feed green food under no conditions, etc.
When we find conflicting statements like the above the beginner should just go “fifty fifty’ and feed a little green food, but feed sparingly. Do not throw enough green food in the hutch to do for three or four days and think your rabbits will thrive on this system of feeding for they will not.
A little green food or roots two or three times a week is very beneficial to either breeding stock or growing youngsters, but should be given in quantities that they can clean up in 15 or 20 minutes and it should be fresh and not frosted or frozen. Dandelions are fine in early spring and summer and the Giant variety can be grown and cultivated and a large amount of feed can be produced on a small plot of ground.
Giant Chickory is another valuable green food which can be cultivated and can be grown from the seed and is a Brennial plant and hardy.
From early fall on through the winter carrots both tops and roots are a valuable food and those two can be grown by the breeder. Sow in rows very thick and after tops get up eight or ten inches high commence to pull and feed, thinning your rows until a suitable number of plants are left to produce good sized carrots for winter feeding. Cauliflower leaves are also good, but cabbage leaves a very offensive smell in the hutches.
Hay and Grain
Hay and oats if obtainable should be your main feed for breeders and youngsters after three or four months of age and if oats cannot be secured barley is the next best grain food and can be fed either whole or crushed, but prefer the crushed for growing youngsters.
The great mistake most beginners make in feeding grain is that they feed too heavily getting their breeding does too fat resulting in a disappointment in expected litters. Many producing no youngsters
and those that do only a few in a litter and not possessing the strength and vigor they should, resulting in a large percentage of losses and the beginner naturally gets discouraged blaming the rabbits, when in fact the cause is his, “over kindness” in his feeding.
No definite rule can be laid down as to the amount of grain to feed, as individuals of the same breed differ so much in their requirements.
When you place grain in your feed crocks and it is not all consumed at the next feeding time, pass this crock up until the next time. If grain is untouched you had better stop and examine the animal carefully for the chances are “something is wrong.”
Iprefer feeding breeding and matured stock once a day preferably in the evening as the rabbit is a nocturnal animal and is more active during the night and will enjoy its feed at this time and naturally the results will be better than if fed during the day as this is when rabbits enjoy their rest.
Breeding does and youngsters require more feed and should be fed night and morning. Hay can be kept before them all the time.
A balanced ration consists of five main compounds, Protein, Carbol-hydrates, Fat, Mineral Salts and the important Vitamlnes. The carbol-hydrates contain the carbon and hydrogen and hydrogen is one of the two parts of water. Two parts Hydrogen and one part oxygen mixed together is what you have in water.
This is the reason you should give your rabbits plenty of pure fresh water. The oxygen in the water is used by the body and helps to maintain the necessary heat. The proteins are the muscle builders. The fats help to make tissue and keep the machinery oiled. The mineral matter also goes to all parts of th body being carried by the blood to the nerves, muscles and bones, etc.
There are three kinds of vitamines. One is dissolvable in water, one in oil, and the other is dissolvable in either water or oil or both. They are necessary to assimulate the food eaten and to eliminate the waste matter thrown off.
If the organs of the body are in a healthy condition they will get rid of all poisonous waste and they will be in a healthy condition if the animal is fed and cared for properly. So the way to keep your stock healthy is to feed good wholesome grain and hay and give plenty of fresh pure water.
Oats comes nearer than any other grain in furnishing a perfect diet for rabbits according to the analysis, but rabbits like a change as well as ourselves.
Following is the analysis of good oats:
Protein or Flesh Formers_______________________15.1%
Fat or Oil..................................... 5.9%
Heat formers......................... _...46.9%
Bone formers................................. 1.9%
Husk or fibre----------------_-----------------20.4%
Water _______________________________________ 9.8%
As I stated before if you cannot secure oats, barley will make a good substitute but if both can be had it is well to feed alternately, thus giving a change.
Analysis of Barley:
Protein or Flesh former..—----------------10.9%
Fat and Oil....—........................... 1.9%
Heat former.............................. 60.2%
Bone former............................ 19%
Husk and Fibre ___________________________14.2%
Water __________________________________ 10.9%
In regard to hay the main object in securing hay for your stock is to see that it is sweet and free from must or mold and keep this in mind rather than the kind you use. Good sweet green alfalfa or clover is to be chosen if same can be secured but I would prefer plain timothy if good rather than musty alfalfa or clover.
Feeding Breeding Does
As I stated before, keep your breeding does in a good healthy condition but do not get them over fat. About a week before time to kindle give them a "milk sop’’ once a day if available, (break a little bread in a dish and pour a little sweet milk over it) then after the youngsters are born keep this up along with the other feed and when the youngsters commence to leave the nest set a crock of rolled oats in the hutch for their little stomaches are not capable of digesting hard grains yet and if allowed to eat solid foods too early Indigestion will result and your trouble begins.
If you cannot furnish your doe milk sops commence about a week before time to kindle and give a little green food each day or carrots so as to have the milk ready for the youngstrs when they arrive.
Now that the doe has her litter feed her twice daily and keep oatmeal before the youngsters at all times and at weaning time continue to feed the youngsters twice daily giving either rolled oats or crushed barley or better both alternately along with good alfalfa and roots or green food if available, also whole oats can be given at this time as a change occassionally.

Mashes are fed by many rabbit breeders who care to take the time and trouble to mix them up and should not be made the same at all times as there is several different methods of making a mash.
Brand and Barley meal, Brand and Middlings, Brand and Clover meal and house scraps and ground oats may be included for a variety. Clean household scraps included in the mash are relished by the stock and gives them a change, potato peelings etc.
Following is a good mash formula.
Two quarts ground alfalfa place in bucket and cover with boiling water, (not too much water) Let set for three or four hours. Then stir in to a (crumbly mass) the following:
1hand full Beet Pulp
2hands full Wheat Bran
3hands full Rolled oats or (ground oats)
1hand full Oil Meal.
If too dry add a little more water but aim to feed in a dry crumbly mass just so it will stick together (not wet).
Here is another successful mash:
Ground corn..........................—........251bs
Ground oats .............-...............-....251bs.
Ground Barley ...........—...........-........151bs.
Bran ............ ....... —................—201bs.
Shorts .......................................151bs.
Horse alfalfa .. .. - . ---- -------------151bs.
Oil meal ............ ........................31bs.
If stock is not accustomed to mashes it is necessary to feed sparingly at the start or looseness of the bowels will result.
In conclusion I wish to say that if your stock is healthy and in good condition do not worry about changing your feed. Let good enough alone. One section of the country may have a certain grain or hay in quantity and about all there is available for the breeder to secure for his stock. If your stock thrives on this by all means do not go to the expense and trouble of having food shipped in from outside points.
By Edw. H. Stahl and James Bunt
There are many things that enter into the success of any and every kind of enterprise—no matter what it is—and, when it comes to rabbits it has precisely the same bearing.
Unquestionably one of the foremost thoughts entering the mind of the prospective rabbit breeder—as well as most every rabbit breeder of the present, is the matter of good stock. That appears to be a most salient consideration—and, rightly so. However, that’s but one only of the success essentials.
What’s another important one you may ask? RIGHT HOUSING of course. Yes, it’s mighty important—and just as necessary as it is for a human being to live out of the slums and an unhealthy neighborhood, into some worth-while healthy quarter, WHERE THERE IS PLENTY OF ROOM and AN OPEN AVENUE OF FRESH AIR and of that MASTERPIECE OF SANITATION—namely, SUNSHINE. Good stock with every chance of MAKING THE BEST accompanied by the above mentioned FEATURES OF IMPORTANCE will give the rabbit breeder every opportunity of MAKING GOOD.
Well! You may say it’s all very well to talk about it—but TELL us waht you mean by THE PROPER HOUSING OF RABBITS.
That’s what we’ll start in doing—right now, because it is the chief aim of this article to not only give you our opinion, but to tell you of our experiences after years of actual daily contact with rabbits.
Do you get that? If not, read that headline over again. We want to convert you one that proposition—then we’ll know that you’ll read the following with eagerness and with a desire to learn what is meant by PROPER HOUSING, so that you may benefit therefrom. At least, we hope so.
For years, the question of GOOD STOCK has been the prime consideration of animal breeders—but, let us assure you that the ONE GREAT THING to go HAND IN HAND with GOOD STOCK is PROPER HOUSING. Pardon us using that term so often, but— it is done for the sole purpose of DRIVING THAT IMPORTANT THOUGHT INTO YOUR
MIND so that it will remain there and cause you to actuate your muscular powers into building PROPER HOUSES if your stock are not already in effective health-giving-kind of hutches. Get that? We hope so.
There are some breeders who commence with GOOD STOCK but use POOR HOUSING—while there are others who have GOOD HOUSING but start in with POOR STOCK. No matter which way it is in either of these connections—BOTH ARE WRONG—and there’s but ONE WAY and ONE WAY ONLY to start raising rabbits and to CONTINUE in the business—that is, START WITH GOOD STOCK and HAVE GOOD HOUSING—then YOU’VE STARTED RIGHT on the ROAD TO SUCCESS in the RABBIT BUSINESS.
In a letter recently received at our office from one of the oldest and authoritative rabbit judges in the United States— he says:
“There are people who do not hesitate to pay $25.00 each for their breeding stock—who, on the other hand do not think to spend enough to house the stock as it should be housed.”
Get the point? It’s just as unwise to invest in good stock and have poor housing accomodation for your rabbits, as it is to start in with poor stock and to house them in good hutches. GOOD STOCK AND GOOD HOUSING MUST GO HAND IN HAND TO MAKE HEADWAY IN THE BUSINESS. Spend good money for good stock and spend good money for good hutches, then you’re wise.
The comments made by the said judge are true. We know of a good many cases where we have seen good stock housed in small makeshift hutches—dry goods boxes, as it were—too small to afford proper exercising for the stock. Under such poor housing conditions, there's but one result—that is, the running down of stock in health in a very short time—stunted stock so far as growth is concerned—runty—diseased—lopped eared, crippled rabbits. Some breeders, housing their rabbits under these undesirable conditions wonder why they fail to make a success in the business—wonder why their stock doesn’t “make good”. Why wonder, when the fault is the faulty housing? It couldn’s be otherwise. IMPROPER HOUSING IS THE CHIEF CAUSE OF THESE FAILURES—and, we regret to say so, nevertheless it’s a fact, that there are TOO MANY rabbit breeders today who come under the above category—shame to say it—but FACTS ARE FACTS, and we must speak of them as we find them, what say you? The truth shouldn’t hurt anybody, should it? POOR HOUSING is one of the chief reasons why there are so many failures in the rabbit business. If these breeders housed their rabbits in proper quarters, they would HIT THE TRAIL OF SUCCESS and positively succeed. Read on! because we are going to tell you what we mean by PROPER HOUSING OF RABBITS—then you can measure your own rabbitry about such ESSENTIAL requirements—and, if yours do not correspond therewith—or, approximately so, that may be the real reason why some of you are failing to produce the stock that should make you money. If you have stock of pro-
per breeding-—if you give the rabbits the proper care and attention-then, if you fail, more than likely the hutches are wrongly constructed —or, there’s something wrong with them, somehow, somewhere.
Take particular note of the measurements—as they play an important part in this consideration.
In making these suggestions we wish to state, the more room you can give your rabbits—the better.
For the smaller breeds such as the Havanas—Chinchillas—Dutch Himalayan—and such like, the SMALLEST HUTCH should be 2 1/2 feet deep—3 1/2 feet long—and, 18 inches high; for New Zealand Reds— American Blues—White Beverens and other breeds of MEDIUM size, the hutch should be not under 2 1/2 feet deep—4 feet long—and 20 inches high; for Flemish Giants and other large breeds the hutch should be not less than 3 feet deep—5 feet long and 24 inches high.
The above dimensions offord the smallest measurements for hutch construction—but, it would be far better if you made them two feet longer (according to breed) it would have its advantages, which will be explained in the next section.
Hutches constructed as per above sizes afford ample room for breeding does—and for bucks. However, for does with young and which are kept with the mother till the youngsters are 8 weeks old or older, we would suggest larger size hutches than above described, so as to give the young plenty of scope for exercise—as, we must remember, that given the facility for growing while in their youth period—as it were, the youngsters will grow mighty fast; give insufficient space, they will get stunted right at the start, and fail to make even an average specimen. Bear these things in mind.
There’s no question about it—that, the bigger the hutches the better it will be for the rabbits. What we mean is this. Rabbits kept in hutches as above described will do all right still, experience has taught us, that even larger quarters will enable the rabbits to do all the better. In other words. YOU GET BEST RESULTS FROM LARGE ACCOMODATING HUTCHES.
There are times when breeders observe that their rabbits lose their appetite,—the stock won’t eat, or fail to eat the quantity of food that is necessary to their well-being. You begin to wonder why. You think of everything else but forget about “cramped housing quarters’’. In nine case out of ten, a rabbit that falls down on eating ability is due to the fact of acute indigestion, due to inefficient housing— failure of the necessary room for proper exercise so as to allow of the food to properly assimilate and digest in the rabbit. In order to get best results from any ond every food (whether with man or beast) there must (at least) be a certain amount of NECESSARY physical exercise to help the food to properly function in the body. If you find your stock “out of condition” at times failing to eat the grain or hay, or other tempting feed, remember it is quite likely to be due to “improper housing”. Look into it for it’s worth an investigation, to say the least, as it may solve your problem.
Most of our breeding hutches are 30 x 48 inches and 20 inches high. On the average, rabbits do well in such quarters—still, constipation occurs at times with the stock in these hutches—but, when the rabbits are weaned they are out into hutches 3 feet by 6 feet, and 24 inches high. Here is where they make rapid growth. In fact, after weaning they grow very fast because they have AMPLE ROOM for exercise—they LENGTHEN OUT and PUT ON WEIGHT quite RAPIDLY and RETAIN HEALTH AND VIGOR—and THRIVE—therefore making the BEST OF RABBITS. Why? Simply because we HOUSE THEM PROPERLY, especially AFTER THEY ARE WEANED. Get the point? If you are not succeeding in bringing up your young rabbits to efficinecy—THERE’S A REASON—maybe, faulty hutches—INVESTIGATE!
There are many different kinds and types of hutches ’tis true, perhaps we don’t see two alike, when it comes to visiting different rab-biteries—that is, the physical appearance, as it were—After all, when it comes to dimensions, we find so many so nearly alike in size. Hence, it is hard to describe one hutch that will meet all requirements in all sections of the country, and in all climates. All one can do, is to afford information as to dimensions of “roomingspace”—then with
regard to contending against the factors of weather elements, the breeder will have to look into that part of it for himself.
In recent years we have noted that more hutches have been built in tiers of two and three high—usually, facing south with the three other sides closed. This has become very popular with breeders especially by those who have raised rabbits for years. Taking all in all—and with our years of experience, we do believe that the tier system of hutching rabbits is one of the best—if not the best, and will meet with the requirements in all sections of the country—also in Canada. Of course, roofs—shade—and such other factors against direct sun rays— rains—storms, etc, have to have local solution by the breeder himself. However, he’ll soon solve that part of the housing once he gets settled down on the matter of dimensions of each hutch, the tier proposition, and other such important factors covered in this writing.
The reason for facing hutches to the south is because it admits of the best kind of ventilation—which is HEALTH GIVING at all times of the year. In the summer, the sun is a most wonderful disinfectant. This does not mean that your hutches should be so located that the hot sun’s rays should shine directly in them—not so—but the effect of the rays, as the air that strikes and enters the hutches should be the air that passes “through” the sun’s rays, thereby modified temperature—pure warm air, yet not too hot—simply a wave of fresh— breezy—health-giving atmosphere. Of course, this refers to hutches that are on the outside—as this condition cannot obtain where hutched are kept inside of a building. Therefore, we recommend, that as far as possible (consistent with the usual weather elements of the locality) that you build your rabbit hutches on the outside—facing south— per-ferably two or three tiers high—shaded from the direct rays of the sun.
Yes—the tier system of rabbit housing affords the breeder with small space to make it possible for him to raise lots of rabbits. Having the hutches two or three high, enables him to raise three rabbits to the other’s one, who as a single tier and the same amount of ground used for the hutches. Therefore, bear this tier system in mind, and you’ll then raise more rabbits than you otherwise would (in a limited
space ) you have but one tier of hutches only. Build three high where you can.
There are a few features that should not be overlooked in the building of hutches. For instance, presuming you are interested in the hutch described, there are some things that might enter into it which would make it uncomfortable for stock at certain times of the year. This is what we mean—consider the top row of hutches—those right under the roof. When it is really hot, rabbits cannot exist under those conditions in the said top tier of hutches—BUT—this is overcome and you can keep the rabbits in the top hutch all year round—IF you will build your roof about 8 to 12 inches above the top (roof) of the top tier of hutches. That is, there should be an air space of about 8 to 12 inches between the top tier of hutches and the roof. Get the point? The air coming in this space VENTILATES AND COOLS the top tier of hutches and you are safe in keeping your rabbits there throughout the year— BUT, if you fail to make this air space between the top of the highest tier and the roof, you will have to take the rabbits out of the top tier of hutches, otherwise your stock will die. While you are building your hutches bear this IMPORTANT FEATURE in mind and build the air-space. It won’t take you any longer—will cost no more and it will permit you to keep your stock safely in the top hutches throughout the year without any fear of stock dying during hot weather. YOU MUST CONSIDER PROPER VENTILATION OF HUTCHES IF YOU WANT TO SUCCEED IN THE RABBIT BUSINESS. Don’t overlook that point.
There are quite a number of types of self-cleaning hutches in use —many of them seem to give entire satisfaction. These hutches are built in a number of different ways. We will try to explain some of them.
First: There is one kind where the floors are built sloping towards the front—a fall of about one inch to the foot will carry off the refuse that collects in the hutches. Then there is the style that slopes toward the back for 24 inches—then a screen netting is used (1/2 inch mesh) which is right at the back about the length of the hutch and 8 to 12 inches in width. Underneath there is galvanized metal sloping—thus, the refuse falling between the netting—falls on the slope, and from the slope falls out on the ground at the back of the hutch. Of course, this means that there is an opening at the back to allow of the waste to fall off on the ground. Some people are inclined to believe that this causes a draft to go up through the netting into the hutch. Our experience has found this not to be so—but, after all, it is always safe to play “safety first’’ whenever and wherever possible, so for those who “fear” this draft entering the hutch from underneath the netting, we suggest that you close up the back opening by a piece of board—same size as the opening—hinged to the hutch, which would be swung open at the time you want to clean out the refuse which has fallen through the netting on to the galvanized metal. In summer this back opening can be kept open by hooking the traphatch or door—then, in winter, release the hook and the door will close up the opening where the refuse comes through.
Where rabbits are raised in this kind of hutch we believe it is advisable to clean the floors at least twice a week. If you can get sawdust from a nearby planing mill or other place—do so, spread it on the floor of the hutch—it will absorbe the moisture and make the clean-
ing all the easier. Hutch floors of this kind should be cleaned at least twice a week. Dirty hutch floors means accumulation of filth—a nesting place for germs—consequently infected animals with ear canker—footrot—sore hock, and so many of the other diseases found in some rabbitries. A WELL BRUSHED OUT—WELL SCRAPED— WELL CLEANED—WELL VENTILATED and WELL DISINFECTED HUTCH will keep your STOCK HEALTHY three hundred and sisty-five days in the year—plus one extra day, every fourth year. Some use the slat Bottom for self cleaning hutches which does very nicely. Slats are 1 1/2 inches wide and set 3/8 to½ inch apart leaving there openings for the droppings to fall through.
Each hutch should have a nest box. This should be not less than 10 inches wide—12 inches high— and 16 inches long— for all breeds of rabbits, except the giants. Those who are raising the latter breed should use nest boxes of about 14 inches wide— 14 inches high—by about 20 inches long. In building, it is well to arrange them so that you can very easily get to the young from the door of the hutch. A very satisfactory nest box is one with a hole in one side—8 inches square for a passage for the does. The lid should be made portable, so that it can be raised and you can then look into the box (from the top) and see how many young there are, and do this at any time you wish, without even handling the young at all, unless you want to.
While it is true that rabbits can be raised successfully on the inside of buildings as well as in outside rabbitries, we believe that the outdoor raised rabbits on the whole make the best specimens, and are getting more into favor all the time. There is no question in our mind that the outdoor raised specimens are the most hardy—have a better coat—are much healthier—and remain so under all conditions. This same finding is also arrived at by many other breeders of experience who have raised rabbits on the inside and on the outside. Again, outdoor raised stock is all the better for sale purposes, as most people who start raising rabbits keep the stock on the outside, and, if they have outdoor raised stock to start in with, and keep the rabbits that way, they are in for success—whereas, if they buy rabbits that are raised on the inside, and keep the stock on the outside, there is every likeli-hood of the stock dying, thus a disappointed breeder who quits the rabbit business for good. However, we do not say that rabbits should not be raised indoors—but, if they are be sure to see that the stock has plenty of ventilation—that there are open windows and doors—and lots of fresh air—with the chance of sunshine able to peep in to greet the rabbits once in a while. They’ll appreciate it, sure enough as you will see them back in the rays of the little sunshine they are able to get that way. However, do not make the mistake of raising rabbits in an artificially heated building. If you do, you make hot-house stock out of them, and they will not survive in any other atmospheric condition. Taking all in all we are strong believers and advocates in the outdoor raised rabbits. This animal is a natural outdoor animal, anyway —and nature has endowed the rabbit with one of the best comforts there is to give warmth—that is fur. hence this hardy animal can stand all sorts of cold weather, and do well under such conditions. Of course, in extremely cold weather, you could place a nest-box in the hutch with some bedding (prairie-hay or some such stuff) so that the rabbit can get away from the extreme cold once in a while, and perhaps take its “forty wink's” when it feels like resting.
There are a few breeders who raise rabbits by turning them loose
on the ground—which is commonly known as “Pastured Rabbits” or the “Yard System”. We do not think this is a successful method at all, and do not advise that stock be raised that way unless one is raising them for meat only. This is perhaps well in dry climates, but it is impractical and well nigh impossible to make a success of this system of rabbit raising where the country is damp, as your stock is bound to have colds—snuffles—pneumonia, and hosts of other trouble. Of course, it can be done and carried out successfully in dry climates— and those who are so located and wish to raise rabbits in quantity for meat purposes can do so, and stand a chance for success. However, even if you do adopt this system, we would suggest that you use slatted floors, so as to keep the rabbits from off the ground—these kind of floors also allow of waste to fall through on to the ground, thus keeping the rabbits free from becoming dirty and invested with filth and dirt which would germinate disease. To sum it up, we don’t advocate the Yard System unless you are truly converted to it, and are so established and located and really know how to take care of the stock under such difficult raising conditions.
Yard System
When building hutches, consider the point of having built in feed racks. A good one can be made by using two 10 inch boards between hutches cut a round hole in it near the top of each hutch, and on the inside provide a pocket made out of one inch mesh poultry wire. In this way, you can feed your stock hay or alfalfa from the outside— feeding two hutches at the same time, and it’s a feed saver too.
Never raise rabbits unless you have them protected against dogs, who seem to be the natural enemies of rabbits. Many breeders have had the sad exprience of dogs visiting their rabbitries and losing valuable stock thereby. It is well to construct your hutches so that they are protected against dogs—and, as an extra precaution build a guard fence around the buildings that house your stock. This is an added expense,
of course, but it may mean the salvation of your rabbits— because dogs will ferret out rabbits, and unless you have your stock proof against dog invasion, you may regret it some day. “Prevention is better than cure” even if it means a little added expense.
Furthermore, a fence is quite useful and practical in the case of a rabbit getting out of the hutches, which will happen once in a while, but one forgetting to put over the fastener on the door, or for some other
cause. Thus, if your rabbit should get out while you are away, there is no fear of it being lost, as it is within the confines of the fence, and naturally, you will be able to catch it, whereas, if you don’t have a fence, you stand the chance of losing rabbits that accidently get out while you are absent from the rabbitry. Get the point? And again, a fence—while it may not be burglar proof, is at least a little less at-
(Courtesy Ed H. Stahl)
Hutches Under Construction Showing Boards Placed for Feed Racks
tractive for thieves to enter your rabbitry, what say you? Did you ever consider these things that MIGHT happen in your rabbitry? They have with others, and maybe with you, unless you guard against such preventive losses.
Remember— good stock deserves good hutches. One is just as important as the other. If you have both, there is no reason in the world why you should not MAKE A SUCCESS OF THE RABBIT BUSINESS.
The above shows the Tier idea in hutches construction, many old time breeders are using these hutches, they should be roofed and the roof should cover the hutch as well as four feet in front of it, post should be set with wire protection against dogs.
(Courtesy F. G. Harris)
This is a very good hutch for young after they are weaned or can be used for bred does, there is ample room in either case for the stock to develop, the floor n the utside runs can be slatted making this style hutch practically self cleaning. See Drawing Below.
Above is a side view of hutches constructed out of cheap ends
of lumber or scraps, it is movable and may be made self cleaning by slatted floors.
Hutches constructed along these lines give entire satisfaction, it can be used for bucks, does and young after weaning in the kind of hutch that can be constructed cheaply, and when built side by side make a fine small rabbitry especially when there are shade trees under which they can be put.
nest box - showing
Good Individual Outdoor Hutch, for Bucks or Breeding Does
(Courtesy W. G. Claypool)
System of Housing and Hutches used much in California. Slat Bottom—Self cleaning Hutches.
While none of us hope to have anything of the kind infest our rabbitry, at times these unwelcome visitors will appear and while by proper care and feeding we can keep them to a minimum, nevertheless, we should be prepared to handle them should they make their appearance.
First—Your hutches should be dry and comfortable, allowing plenty of room for each specimen and keeping same clean and sanitary at all times. By comfortable, I do not infer that they should be supplied with heat, but free from draughts, cold, damp winds, etc.
Good roomy hutches are very essential to the health of your stock and much better results and more profit will be derived from less stock in roomy comfortable quarters, than by trying to keep more than your space should permit by over-crowding.
Feed also plays an important part in keeping your stock healthy, and often over-feeding will bring as disasterous results as over-crowding.
Feed pure wholesome food and about what will be consumed in a reasonable length of time, and if food is found in the feed crocks at feeding time skip this individual until the next time. Following are the diseases most common among rabbits.
Ear canker is caused by one of the mange mites. It is infectious and fatal when neglected. Rabbits having ear mange, or “canker,’ shake their heads, flap their ears, and try to scratch inside their ears with their hind feet. Inspection shows the ear to be more or less covered by a scab This trouble can be corrected by softening the scab with soap and water and then applying a mixture of 20 parts olive oil and 1 part carbolic acid or cresol. Several treatments are necessary to effect a cure.
A Healthy Pair
Disorders of the digestive organs come from feeding young rabbits too freely on wet and juicy greens, or from too radically changing their diet. Intestinal troubles may usually be corrected by a change of feed. For constipation, rabbits should have more greens and bran mash, and, if possible, more exercise. Castor oil may be administered if necessary. In a case of diarrhoea, green feed should be entirely replaced by dry
hay and rolled oats or barley meal. Dandelion leaves are recommended as a remedy for a disease of the kidneys evidenced by reddish-colored urine.
Mange is due to minute parasites which burrow into the skin, causing loss of hair and the formation of a scab. Treatment consists of cutting the hair around the scab, softening the scab with warm water and soap, and applying an ointment made by mixing 1 part sulphur with 3 parts pure lard. This ointment should be applied two or three times daily until a cure is effected. After handling a mangy animal, it is advisable to rub the hands with the ointment to prevent their becoming infected.
When rabbits eat too much green stuff they often have indigestion, accompanied by an excessive flow of saliva running down over the chin and throat. A cure can be effected by rubbing fine salt or alum over the wet parts or by bathing them with a solution of boracic acid after they have been washed and wiped, and withholding all food for 12 hours. Milk, grain mash, and rolled oats are suitable for animals re covering from an attack of slobbers. Rabbits fed judiciously are not likely to have this diesase.
The cause is too well known to need any explanation. The remedy: Change method of feeding, give a little natural greens, and cut down on the amount of oats and dry feeds usually given, feed a good mash in which there is plenty of bran and a little salt. Give at evening one teaspoonful of castor oil, and if one dose is not sufficient repeat the next evening, although as a rule the first dose is sufficient. This I personally consider a better remedy than the use of Buckthorn.
Snuffles is a very contagious germ disease resembling catarrh, which in the acute form is quickly fatal, and in the chronic form, though less maligant, seems to be well-nigh incurable. The noticeable symptoms are weakness, sneezing, and running at the nose. The nasal secretions are at first watery, then thick. At the first indications of this disease, steps should be taken to segregate the sick from the healthy animals. If it is necessary that one keeper care for both the sick and the healthy, he should change his clothes and disinfect his hands before attending the latter.
It is better to kill rabbits having snuffles and to burn or deeply bury the carcasses than to risk their spreading the disease through a rabbitry. It should be remembered, however, that the early symptoms of the disease are much like those of a common cold, and while rabbits having these symptoms should be isolated immediately, extreme meas-ures should not be taken while there is any doubt as to the identity of the disease.
Affected animals should always be placed in dry, well-lighted, and well-ventilated hutches, yet where they will be protected from sudden changes of temperature. They should be fed with care; dusty hay should especially be avoided. Every possible precaution should be taken to keep the hutch clean and the feed and water dishes sterlized. If the malady turns out to be only a cold the animals that have been affected may be returned to their regular quarters when fully recovered. Hutches and buildings occupied by rabbits having snuffles must be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected.
Young rabbits are sometimes affected with sore eyes, a disease due entirely to unsanitary conditions, and not found in clean, well-ventilated hutches. When adverse conditions are removed, it can be cured by using a solution made by dissolving 1 teaspoon of boracic acid in one gill of boiling water, applied cold. Young rabbits should be inspected daily, and the boracic acid solution applied with a small swab of sterlized cotton at the first appearance of pus in their eyes.
sore; hocks
Sore hocks may be cured by treatment with a 1 per cent solution of cresol, comphorated oil. or iodoform, and by keeping the affected animals in clean dry earth, saw dust or straw, until the sores are healed. This treatment is suitable for other sores and also for wounds. The hind feet of rabbits kept on hard floors should be examined once a week. If they become bare, the soles should be greased daily with carbolated
oil.petrolatum, or mutton tallow to prevent sores.
An infectious disease of the external genital organs, known as vent disease, may be recognized by a swelling of the affected parts and a discharge of mucus. Rabbits having the disease should be isolated in clean, dry hutches and treated until cured by bathing with a 2 per cent solution of copper sulphate or by applying zinc ointment or mercurial ointment.
Incurable, better kill the animal and relieve it of its suffering.
Found mostly in youngsters and caused by numerous things mainly feeding too much greens, change in weather and also poor milk supply from the motherig doe. Remedy: Cut out all greens; do not give bran in mash, and place animal in good, dry, clean coop. I usually give animals one half teaspoon castor oil to clean out their systems before giving further treatmnet. Feed animals entirely on dry food, giving plenty of stale bread and if mash is used add to same a little flowers of sulphur and cream of tartar.
By J. Hathaway Scharff
Meats which form one of the principal parts of our meals and furnish our body with proper nourishment to build us up and keep our strength along with other foods. Man is an animal and animals must eat; and although it is written of him, “Thou shalt not live by bread alone". There are several meats to use and the meats are being used up very fast too, and they are becoming less in supply on the markets as the population and advancement of civilization is becoming more in numbers than the supply can be raised or bred to stock up a substan-cial reserve supply. Poultry has become a large part of the meat supply. Why? Because the poultry breeders and dealers have organized and co-operated among themselves and have educated the public as to the usefulness and pleasure and profit that there is in chickens and have also kept up the supply strong enough to easily supply the demands as are made on them for their products.
Therefore, rabbits can and will become more used in the American homes and markets eventually as fast as the American breeders will organize and give out publicity and back it up with good clean rabbit meat at a fair profit to the breeder and consumer. Publicity and fair play
Dressed Rabbit
will play a large part in this work, each and every one of the rabbit breeders can do their share and thereby gain in the success that is bound to come to this wonderful little animal for food.
Seventy-five per cent of the average men and women of today have a misconception of the value of rabbits as to meat.
There are several successful breeders and Associations that are real valuable to the rabbit industry and are affiliated with the parent Association, The American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, which is doing such wonderful work in bringing out the Government and Public realization that the rabbit is coming into its own. Let us all keep up the good work and success will be ours.
Many tasty and useful dishes can be made up from the rabbit.
Recipes made up for the preparation and cooking of rabbit meat are made up for the average family and are usually subject to change or corrections to suit your own taste as individual taste differs all over. But the recipes will give a foundation from which to work by. So being usually made up for the average small family and can be easily multiplied to suit the number of persons to be served, etc. All rabbits are about the same as far as the grain of the meat or the taste is concerned at a given age. Young rabbits from two to four months of age of course are better and more tender for frying, etc., than older ones. But older ones that are cooked properly and not too fast are very tasty. The older ones are very well suitable for salads and sandwiches, etc. An old rabbit roasted is fine, too.
Boost the rabbit for meat as much as possible, the Fur and Fancy ones will take care of themselves. Take a couple of good rabbit magazines and join your local Association as well as the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association and you will do your share in giving the rabbit Publicity for this and further generations.
Selection, Killing and Preparation of Rabbit for Food
Selection: If to be used for food, a rabbit should be selected that is healthy and plump. For fry or broil a young one from six weeks to three months is the best age (any breed).
For Stew, Fricassee or Roast from four months up. The older it is the more it will need to be cooked.
If to be sold for meat, it is neat and more business like to take a piece of cheese cloth to wrap around the carcass, most large rabbitries do this, it costs about a cent or so per rabbit, but is well worth the investment, as it will make a good impression on the customer.
Whom to Sell To: There are several means and ways that rabbits can be marketed and sold. First usually the home trade is considered as that is the most profitable per pound. Then the Butcher’s by contract, Hotels, Restaurants, Industrial Cafeterias, Steamships, College and Camp Kitchens, etc.
If you only have a few rabbits you can build up a very profitable business with the home or family trade, if you have a large amount of meat stock on hand most of the year you can sell by contract to the larger consumers as spoken of above. You will have to do the work of getting up trade and holding it as it is like every other business, it will not grow by itself, but if you do try and build up a nice meat trade in any of the above ways you will be well repaid for the time you put into this business.
Herewith are a few ways and uses that can me made up with the meat of the useful animal called ’’Rabbit”. These recipes are for the average family, taste and customs vary all over, but they can be used as a foundation from which to work on.
Rabbit Sandwich: One of the best ways to prepare the meat for sandwiches, is to blanch a good sized rabbit. That is put in cold water until it comes to a boil. Pour off water. Cover over again with cold water with the following.
One six to ten or more pound rabbit (dressed) in six or eight pieces, salt and peper to taste, cup carrots
½ cup onion
½ cup celery
1 tomato or ½ cup tomato puree.
Let simmer on stove slowly until meat is ready to fall from the bone (If young rabbit is used be careful not to cook too long. Skim off the impurities as fast as they raise, when cooked as the above drain off stock, let meat stand until cool enough to handle, remove all meat from the bones in large pieces as possible, except hind legs which can be sliced with a knife, other parts can be diced with a knife.
Have the lettuce cleaned and in cold or iced water to make it crisp then butter bread and place a piece of lettuce on bread with some rabbit meat then another layer of lettuce then top piece of bread, mayonaise dressing can be added if desired. Season all sandwiches with salt and pepper also.
Same as above can be made adding Mayonaise with chopped celery, onion and permento or tomato sliced, wrap them up in waxed paper if they are made up ahead of time to be eaten as that keeps them fresh and tasty.
Rabbit Club Sandwich: Toast three pieces of bread nice and brown On first piece of toast place, lettuce leaves, sliced tomato, onion, sliced thin, little spoon of mayonaise dressing, place second piece of toast on another lettuce leaf sliced and chopped rabbit meat seasoned, two small slices of fried cooked bacon put a little more mayonaise dressing it desired, then the third piece of toast. Put a couple of tooth picks in the toast to help hold them together and put an olive on top of each tooth pick if desired, cut from one corner to other making the sandwich into two triangle pieces.
Plain Rabbit Salad: Three cups of cold diced rabbit meat.
One cup chopped celery.
One half cup chopped onion.
One half cup chopped green peppers.
Two tablespoons chopped parsley.
Two cups vinegar.
One cup salad or olive oil.
One tablespoon mustard.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Mix the above in a large bowl, serve on a plate or platter with plenty of lettuce leaves, mayonaise dressing can be served with it.
Potted Rabbit: Cut up in small pieces a large rabbit of six or eight pounds (dressed weight) put into a small bake pan with a little fat and the following:
One cup sliced carrots.
One cup onions sliced.
Two tomatoes sliced or a small can of tomatoes.
One teaspoon pickling spice, salt and pepper to taste.
Let this brown well in oven then add water enough to barely cover, stir around well, let bake until tender. Just before removing from oven, mix one cupful of flour with three cups of cold water strain this into pan and let cook about ten minutes stiring often. Remove from oven and serve with mashed potatoes if desired.
Rabbit Omlette. Plain: This is for a family of four to six. If smaller omelette is desired use less of each in proportion.
Heat a couple of ounces of butter in a frying pan, a French omelette pan is best that has round edges.
Mix the following:
Twelve eggs.
Two ounces bread crumbs (White bread).
Two cups diced rabbit meat.
One-fourth cup chopped onion.
Tablespoon chopped parsley.
Salt and pepper to taste.
Mix all the above, rapidly cook on stove, turning at intervals, place in oven for two minutes and remove to serve on plate.
French fried potatoes are nice with above.
Rabbit Soup: 1 cup concentrated rabbit broth
3cups milk
4tablespoons flour 1 teaspoon salt Few grains pepper
1 tablespoon onion juice
Add the milk to a broth made from rabbit bones (see rabbit pie

recipe) and season with onion juice, salt, pepper, and parsley or celery leaves if desired. When it is almost boiling, stir in carefully the flour which has been moistened with part of the cold milk or with water. Stir until the soup is of a creamy consistency and serve at once.
Fried Rabbit:Dress rabbit,cutin pieces,dredge with flour, salt
and pepper. Heat4 tablespoonsoffat in a frying pan, drop in the
rabbit, and fry slowly for 30 to 45 minutes, depending upon age of animal. Serve with a cream gravy, using the fat in which the rabbit was fried.
Fricassee of Rabbit; Skin, draw and wash rabbit and cut in into pieces. Dredge with flour, salt and pepper. Brown in 4 tablespoons of fat. Change from frying pan to stewpan, cover with boiling water and cook slowlv untiltender. Removemeat frombroth. Thicken broth
with 1 tablespoonof flour to 1cup of broth.Boil vigorously for a
minute or two, then add dumplings; cover closely and allow to steam 15 to 20 minutes. Pour dumplings and gravy on hot serving platter.
Dumplings: 2 cups flour 4 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup milk
2tablespoons fat
Sift together flour, baking powder, and salt. Cut in fat. Beat egg well and add milk. Combine the two mixtures. Drop by spoonfuls into slowly boiling gravy. Cover closely and allow to steam 15 to 20 minutes.
Spiced Rabbit: 1 rabbit 6 slices bacon
1medium-sized onion
2teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper 1 tablespoon cloves Brown Sauce—
1 tablespoon sugar ½ cup water l tablespoon flour
Skin draw, and wash rabbit and cut it into pieces. Put it into stewpan with bacon cut into small pieces, onion cut fine, salt, pepper, and whole cloves in a bag. Cover with boiling water and cook slowly until tender.
Carmelize the sugar and add water thickened with flour well blended with 2 tablespoons of water. Pour this brown sauce over the spiced rabbit and allow the whole to simmer 2 hours.
Casserole Rabbit: 8 slices bacon
1large rabbit cut into pieces
2medium-sized potatoes 2 small onions
2cups hot water 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon pepper
Fry the bacon until 1ight brown and remove it from the fat. Use this bacon fat to brown the rabbit, which has been dipped in flour. Arrange in a casserole the pieces of rabbit, the strips of bacon, and slice onions and potatoes, and dredge lightly with flour. Pour water over all. Cover and Cook slowly 2 hours.
Bake Rabbit: 1 rabbit
3cups cream or thin white sauce
6 slices bacon Flour for dredging
Skin, clean and wash the rabbit, and split it into two pieces, cut-ting along backbone. Rub with salt and a little pepper, place in a roasting pan, and dredge with flour. Lay strips of bacon across the rabbit. Pour over and around it 3 cups of the white sauce or 3 cups of cream. Bake 1½ hours, basting frequently. Serve hot with the cream gravy. The liver may be boiled until tender, chopped, and added to the gravy before serving.
Rabbit in Tomato Sauce: 2 tablespoons lard or butter
3tablespoons flour
1½ cups tomato pulp and juice
1large onion (chopped fine)
2teaspoons salt
teaspoon pepper
3cups water
1 large rabbit
Skin, cl an, and wash the rabbit and cut it into pieces at the joints. Dip in flour and brown in a little fat.
Put the lard or butter in a deep skillet or a roasting pan, and stir in the flour. Add the chopped onion and the tomato juice with the seasonings and the boiling water and cook for 5 minutes. When this is boiling put in the browned rabbit. Cover and let simmer on top of the stove or in the oven for one hour. The tomato sauce cooks down and gives a very good flavor to the rabbit.
In canning of rabbit meat it is advisable not to try it unless you are more or less familiar with the canning of fruits and vegetables, as this process requires more or less experience.
Recipe No. 1.
Take a nice plump rabbit of any age. Kill in usual manner, 1et it hang up to cool off for a while then wash in clean cool water. Cut into quarter sections or more depending on size of rabbit. The meat should be placed in cheese cloth and boil until the meat can be removed from the bones easily; remove from boiling liquid and remove meat from bones.
Pack closely into glass jars; fill jars with pot liquid, after it has has been concentrated one half; add a level teaspoon of salt per quart of meat, for seasoning; put rubbers and caps on jars into position, not tight. Sterilize for the length of time given below for the par
ticular type of outfit used:
Water bath, homemade or commercial................3 hours
Water seal, 214 degrees ..........................3 hours
Steam canner, 5 pounds pressure ..................1 hour
Steam canner, 10 to 15 pounds pressure.............1 hour
Remove jars: tighten covers; invert to cool, and test joints, wrap jars with paper to prevent bleaching.
Recipe No. 2.
Kill, clean and cut up, as above recipe; scald in boiling water and dip at once into cold water. Pack immediately into glass jars; fill
with boiling water; add level teaspoon of salt per quart, put rubbers and caps of jars into position, not tight. Sterilize for the length of time given below for the particular type of outfit used:
Water bath, homemade or commercial --------------3 hours
Water seal, 214 degrees..........................3 hours
Steam canner, 5 pounds pressure ........_........2 hours
Steam canner, 10 to 15 pounds pressure...........1 hour
Remove jars; tighten covers; invert to cool, and test joints. Wrap jars with paper to prevent bleaching.
Young Rabbit Meat—Fried.
After cleaning and preparing the rabbit for frying, season and fry as though preparing for serving directly on the table.
Cook until the meat is about three-fourths done. If a wholesome fat rabbit is used it will be a fine dish. When done about three-fourths, drop this hot, fried rabbit into a hot glass jar large enough to hold same without crowding. Pour liquid from pan or griddle into the jar over the rabbit. Place rubbers and cap of jars into postion, not tight. Sterilize for length of time given below for the particular type of out-
fit used:
Water bath, homemade or commercial90Minutes
Water seal, 214degrees...................60Minutes
Steam canner, 5pounds pressure ......... 40Minutes
Steam canner, 10to 15 pounds pressure......30Minutes
Tighten jars to test joints.
Should you be unsuccessful at first time, try again as it seems more complicated than it is. after you once do it you will want to can all your surplus rabbit meat as you need it.
By Harry G. Herrlein
It has been my desire for some time to state a few words to my fellow breeders on the matter of taking pelts and dressing the carcass for market. As the pioneer in establishing the largest Rabbit farm in the world I find it interesting to quote from my personal experience in handling over three thousand head of pedigreed stock at one time, housed in individual hutches.
In summing up an animal’s qualifications, the condition of the fur is an important factor. Let us assume that we are selecting an animal for market. Prime fur, sound health, perfect color and standard in size and weight constitutes the features to be given first consideration.
PRIMENESS—By running the finger lightly and slowly over the hair toward the head, the density of the fur at the base is seen. The hair at the base should be thick, running uniform over the entire pelt. A rubbed or empty spot on the pelt immediately lowers its value unless the rubbed spot appears near the edge. In that case it can easily be cut away.
MOULTING—This can easily be determined by the slight difference in color at various stages. As a rule the moult begins at the head and nape, gradually following over the back to the tail. The moult is easily followed as the new hair will have a tendency to show up brighter and at the junction of the new and old hair there is usually a break in the ticking resembling a line over the body.
The above cut shows a beautiful fur coat made from Chinchilla Rabbit skins in their natural state. No dying or clipping and nothing in the fur line could be neater or more attractive.
(Courtesy K. P. Button)
COLOR—In the Chinchilla the body or base fur is slate blue, graduating into pale gray, pearl gray, white and finally tipped with silver black. The color effect in general should resemble as near as possible the real Chinchilla Lanigeria. A light, rusty or off-colored pelt is usually graded as a cull or throw-out. In the Havana a dark chocolate brown will be given preference in grading over the rusty-yellow-brown. The base fur of the Havana should show silver gray with a tint of brown, graduating into blue brown. In all solid colors, such as Blue Beveren, Blue Flemish, American Blue, Lilac, Gouda, Sitka, and all varieties of White, the color condition should be uniform without a break to indicate a moult spot.
PHYSICAL CONDITION—In safe guarding the future possibilities of the individual breeder and the industry itself, it is only fair that an animal with the slightest indication of unsound health should be passed up in selecting stock for market. A beginner will be more likely to pay no attention to a slight cold or a mild case of ear canker. This is dangerous business for all concerned.
Let us now assume that Mr. Bunny has come up to the foregoing Qualifications and some portion of the building is screened off against flies, and equipped with such minor facilities as a pair of heavy, headless nails sharpened to a point and driven into the wall about eight inches apart and about five and a half feet from the floor, fresh running water at hand, a small chopping block, pelt stretchers, a solution of one part alum, one part borax, one part sal-amoniac, two parts table salt thoroughly dissolved in water, and last a good sharp pelting knife.
KILLING—The most effective method for killing, is to take a firm hold of the hind legs with your left hand so that the head hangs down and the animals back is toward your right. Either with a blunt stick or the edge of your right hand, strike a hard blow behind the ears, breaking the neck if possible.
SKINNING—Hang the animal, back to the wall, on the two nails, by piercing the skin between the tendons and leg bone above the juncture of the hock and hind legs. Your knife can be none too sharp and pointed. The first incision should be made beginning as near to the foo das possible and cut downward and along the center of each leg. Both incisions of the legs should meet about one inch under the tail. It is assumed that the incisions are not deeper than the skin. Both hind legs of the skin are now free from the body except at the feet. Cut the leg bone as near to the foot as possible leaving the claws on the pelt. Both legs are now free. At the tail cut the pelt free from the body, leaving the tail on the pelt. Holding the skin of both legs and back in the left hand and cutting away the body tissues with your right, the pelt is drawn from the body in glove form, until the ears and front paws are reached. Cut the frontlegs as near to the foot as possible, leaving the claws on the pelt. The head is not removed until the pelt is completely drawn. Ears should be left on the pelt. You now have a pelt with all characteristics, only eyes, nose and mouth holes showing. It is put to one side until the dressing of the carcass is completed.
DRESSING—One incision, from tail to breast should suffice, exercising care against opening the intestines. Beginning at the tail, remove all loose particles except heart and liver. These should remain intact, removing the gall with care. The carcass is now placed on the block and with a small cleaver or sharp knife remove the head. Place the carcass back on a hook suspended from one hind leg and allow to bleed for about one half hour. In the meantime prepare your plain cold water for washing carcass. After the carcass has bled, wash it thoroughly and rinse several times. It should then be dried with a
clean cloth. In preparing for market, the carcass wrapped in waxed paper gives an attractive and appetizing appearance. In wrapping, place carcass on a table, back down, hind legs toward you on a piece of butcher twine about twelve inches long. The hind legs are forced in to the body and toward the neck, with precaution against tearing the flesh at the rump. Front legs straightened alongside the breast. The twine is brought around the shoulders and to the breast where all four legs are securely tied. For packing in quantity this method will be found most suitable.
STRETCHING AND DRYING—A wood pelt stretcher made of most any scrap material should measure about two feet long, or a stretcher made from No. 9 wire graduating from one end for a distance of eighteen inches and the balance of the six inches to a point. The wide end to measure nine inches. Furriers prefer the pelts stretched the long way, glove fashion. After the pelt is drawn taut over the board, hide side out, fasten the legs and tail with small nails or tacks to the board. It is now ready for the salt bath. With a stiff brush apply the foregoing solution thoroughly, covering only the surface of the hide. Care should be taken against allowing the solution to run beneath the hide through the end. It is not injurious to the fur but will take longer to dry properly. When hanging the pelt to dry, the head end of the pelt should be at the top, and select a cool dry place free from flies. After about the third day, it is well to lay the pelt while still on the stretcher, in the sun for several hours guarding against “blow-flies.” When satisfied that the pelt is thoroughly dry, remove from stretcher and beat it thoroughly with a thin stick or bamboo rod. This is done to remove all possible traces of “blow-fly” eggs. Using a stiff straw brush the pelt should be brushed thoroughly. It is now ready for storage or shipping to market. If stored on the breeders premises, precaution should be taken to select an air-tight box, lined with tar-paper. Each pelt is wrapped in newspaper and camphor flakes sprinkled in box between pelts.
Rabbit Pelts Ready for the Furrier
PELT GRADING—In grading pelts the following table will be found most convenient to the beginner, and judgment should only be passed after the closest examination, using the color standards as a guide:
No. 1No. 2No. 3No. 8
Color Size HairperfectGoodPerfectPerfect
Full & DenseFull & DenseLess DenseFull & Dense
No. 5No. 6No. 7No. 4
ColorSlightly offOffGoodOff
HairFull & DenseFull & DenseMoultingSmall
Finished Product. Coat from Rabbit Skins
The foregoing suggestions contained in this article are based strictly upon practical experiences and are being applied with the most satisfaction by the larger breeder of rabbits in America. The writer shall be pleased to try and answer any difficulties encountered and not covered herein.
Rabbit skins should always be saved, as they have a value, depending on their condition, and are regularly in demand. A skin may be prepared for market with less trouble than is required to bury it. It has only to be drawn, flesh side out, over a piece of thin board or No. 9 gauge galvanized wire, shaped to give it a uniform tension, and hung in a shady, well ventilated place, as under an open shed, until it becomes bone dry. Artificial heat should not be used to dry skins if it is possible to dry them otherwise before there is danger of their becoming sour or mouldy.
Usually after hanging a week or ten days skins may be removed from the stretchers.
Unless one is killing a great many rabbits, it is usually preferable to sell the dry skins to a local fur buyer, who will bale and ship for several producers. When there are a large number of skins they may be piled between upright scantlings as stove wood is piled and kept thus until enough have accumulated to make a bale. They should then be baled under lever or screw pressure, securely bound and covered with burlap before being shipped.
If rabbit skins are intended for home use and not for sale, they may be tanned by anyone. However, amateur tanners are seldom able to secure as good results as can professional fur dressers, for the pliability of a pelt depends largely upon the amount of labor put upon it, and the furrier does his labor by the aid of modern machinery.
For home tanning, skins should be taken off “open” instead of “cased”; or, if cased skins are to be tanned they may be split down the median line of the belly. The skin should be scraped on the flesh side to remove all adhering bits of flesh. Many amateur tanners are accustomed to use alum to fix the hair, but this is not recommended, as alum hardens the skin and adds to the labor required to make it pliable.
A good tanning liquor is composed of one quart of salt and one-half ounce of sulphuric acid to each gallon of water. As the acid corrodes metal, this liquid should be kept in a glass or a wooden container. Rabbit skins will be tanned in this mixture in from 3 to 4 days, but they may be kept in it for any length of time without injury.
When removed from the tanning liquor skins should be washed several times in soapy water, wrung as dry as possible, thoroughly rubbed on the flesh side with a cake of hard soap, folded in the middle lengthwise over a line, hair side out, and left to dry. When both outer surfaces are barely dry and the interior is still moist, the skins should be laid over a smooth, rounded board or plank and scraped on the flesh side with the edge of a worn flat file or other blunt-edged tool. In this way an inner layer of tissue is removed and the skins become nearly white in color. They should then be stretched, rubbed and twisted until quite dry. If parts of the skin are still hard or stiff it should be returned to the tanning solution and the process repeated until the entire skin is soft. Fresh butter or other animal fat worked into skins while they are warm and then worked out again in dry hardwood sawdust, or extracted by a hasty bath in gasoline, increases their softness Home-dressed skins should be matched for color before being made up into garments.
Courtesy F. T. Witt Dutch Marked Cavy
By FRED T. WITT, Cavy Judge.
The Cavy, commonly known as “Guinea Pigs,’’ are not really pigs at all; their proper name is Cavy. They weigh two pounds or more when grown. They are born with their eyes open and fully furred and take food the same day. Cavies are very interesting and at the same time, profitable. Cavies are so interesting and fascinating that they appeal to anyone who sees them, and become more interesting when one learns of their usefulness and the profit that can be made raising them.
Courtesy Fur & Feather
Cream Cavy HOUSING
Proper housing for cavies is very essential in order to be successful. The main thing is to have it free from drafts, dogs, rats, and cats. Nothing will kill a cavy quicker than draft from which it cannot get away. Drafts develop colds, and colds into pneumonia, and then your cavy is gone. Therefore, provide good housing, free from drafts, and plenty of sunshine. Clean hutches once a week. Disinfect hutches after cleaning once a week; use plenty of shavings or straw for bedding.
Cavies are clean and there is no odor connected with them. Cavies do best where temparature is even and does not fall below 40 degrees above zero, but will do best if above.
If Cavies are properly fed, you will have no trouble raising them successfully. Proper attention should be paid to the feeding. Be regular, not any old time you happen to think of them. They are just like us humans when meal time comes—they are waiting. Give your Cavies a virety of feed as they like a change as well as we do. During the summer feed them dandelions, lawn-clippings, clover, celery, alfalfa, Swiss-chard, and most any kind of grass or weeds, but avoid poisonous weeds. In addition to green food, they should have clean oats fed either whole or rolled. In winter feed hay, such as lafalfa, timothy, clover or Prairie hay and oats. Carrots, mangolds, beets, cabbage or sprouted oats is good green feed. They should have salt. They can do without water if plenty of roots are fed but should have water if fed on dry ration but do best with green food. A bran mash
Courtesy W. H. Blair Silver Agouti
of two parts bran and one part rolled oats, a little oil meal and salt to taste, just wet enough to mix so it will crumble. Alfalfa is the best hay as it builds bone and supplies lime which is necessary for health.
Careful atention should be paid to breeding. Do not breed cavies in poor condition. If in poor condition, inferior stock is the result. So make your start with a few or as many tested breeders of the best quality as you can afford, old enough to produce strength, size, and vigor whether the long, silky-haired Peruvian, the Rosetted curled Abyssinian, or sleek, smooth-coated English, Do not breed females under six months old and don’t use males under five months old. Cavies carry their young from sixty to seventy days; they produce from one to six young at a time; three is a good average.
When more females are in one hutch, one will help nurse the other’s young, but it is better to have each female separated if anyone has room; better cavies is the result. One male and five females make a good pen. When females show signs of being with young, separate from male. Leave female with young four or five weeks, then separate, placing females and males by themselves as they become sexually mature when six to seven weeks old. After weaning the young, give
the female a week's rest and then place them again with males. By so doing you can get four litters a year from each female without injuring her and your females will be good for four or five years or longer.
White CaviesCourtesy Fred T. Witt
COMMERCIAL USE OF CAVIES Cavies are useful for medical and research work as well as for food, fur and fancy. Most laboratories use them from eight to twelve ounces in weight; others want them of larger size. The Cavy is known as the Human Life Saver because it gives its own life to let others live. Cavies are used in the testing and standardizing of serums and antitoxins; in the Wasserman test, in the preparation of Black leg, Tenan-tus, diptheria, yellow fever, and other serums, guinea pigs are needed. The Cavy, like all the other animals has its place in the show world. Every Live Stock Show has an exhibit of Cavies. They are on display from c oast to coast at the shows. A visit to one of these shows will convince one of the popularity of the Cavy and the demand that exists for fancy, well-bred Cavies.
Cream Cavy
Cavies are really not subject to many diseases. Their susceptibility to ailment is closely related to quality, quantity and kind of food eaten. Feeding Cavies at irregular times and in improper amounts are generally the sources of the common causes of inflammation affecting the stomach digestive tract, from which losses among the animals may occur. Too sudden changes in temparature in localities where the freezing point varies considerably and aslo having insufficient and improper vent-lation are common causes of pneumonia. Direct drafts will also cause this disease. If you will take due precautions as to feeding, cleanliness of surroundings, pure water, abundant room and reasonable even temperature and proper ventilation, you will prevent almost any of the
diseases Cavies are subject to. Some authorities state that Cavies are practically immune from disease; however, this is not correct. In caring for your cavies they should not be subject to wet hutches or dampness, which is generally the common cause of fatalities among them.
The following diseases as listed with their symptoms and treatments, will be of great service in caring for the ailments of the cavies if followed carefully.
Colds and Pneumonia—Symptoms: Cavy breathes fast, sides work in and out, hair stands up, animal is in dumpish condition and sits in the corner of the hutch, eats but little. You can generally detect a cavy well developed with this disease by mucus rails obstructing the breathing of the animal, which causes a slight roaring.
Causes: Caused from drafts, sudden change in temperature, overfeeding of green food and keeping them in wet hutches. Sometimes contracted by Cavies being placed in a crowded express car and express piled on top of the boxes they are shipped in, causing the Cavies to sweat and become overheated. In this condition they are placed in cold express office where there is considerable draft. Cavies will contract an acute cold in six hours, which generally kills them inside of twelve hours. However, if they pass over the acute condition, which is up to twelve hours, then they pass into the chronic stage, and they will prolong a considerable time either showing improvement or death.
Treatment: Separate sick cavies from the healthy stock. Give one teaspoonful of castor oil at night after feeding. Begin next morning with Cavy Cold Cure placing in Cavies mouth with dropper morning and night until cured. Cut down on green food one-half.
Tortocolis—Symptoms: The animal holds head to one side and goes around in a circle.
Causes: Caused by drafts and catching cold, which affects the muscles of the neck, causing the muscles affected most to give the neck a curved appearance. Some animals recover from this although their neck is turned, they make very good breeders.
Treatment: Massage the neck of the animal with any good liniment and give Cavy Cold Cure as directions state morning and night. This generally relieves them and often cures.
Watery Eyes—Symptoms: Watery discharge from the eyes and sometimes from the nostrils, caused by a cold and sometimes the ammonia given off from unclean hutches. If caused from colds follow the same treatment as for colds and pneumonia.
Paralysis—Symptoms: Hind quarters drag, weak back, lower extremities of the cavy immovable. Caused from feeding too much alfalfa or over feeding them with green food; also damp hutches.
Treatment: Give cavy 18 drops of Cavy Cold Cure twice a day. Rub the limbs and loin with some good liniment. Feed carefully for a few days and they will generally recover.
This article will be continued next month. We are always glad to favor our brother cavy breeders in answering their questions if they will be so kind as to inclose four cents in stamps to cover all costs.
Lice—Sumptoms: Animal becomes thin, do not seem to eat, scratch themelves considerably, hair sometimes stands up and the cavy has sort of dull appearance. Always look your cavy over about once or twice a month for nits and lice, for these pests hinder the growth and breeding of the stock and keep them in a poor condition.
Treatment: If the weather Is warm, it is well that you dip them, and you can generally get an animal dip that is prepared especially
for this, as per directions from the manufacturer. You can dip the entire animal in the fluid and place him in the sun where it is warm so that he will dry rapidly, or near a stove if you wish. Dipping cavies really is the sure method of destroying lice. However, if the weather is to cold for dipping, then use a good lice powder and dust same into the hair of the cavy and about the hutch. Do not be afraid of using too much.
By E. D. Corron, Colorado Springs, Colo.
Before commencing to get together your breeding stock, the beginner should carefully study the show reports in our fancier papers to see who are the successful breeders on the show bench and have stock for sale.
Having done this, the next thing to do is to decide which variety he wants to take up. In deciding on the variety, space, time and cash at disposal must be considered. The room required for 20 English will only accommodate 8 Peruvians. The time required to look after Peruvians is much greater than that needed to care for a stud of English.
In selecting stock a great point is the perfect healthfulness of each one selected. The future success of a caviary depends in a great measure on the condition of the original stock. It is impossible to breed exhibition stock from unhealthy parents. All that you do is to propagate disease and eventually death. A good test as to health and vigor is the condition of the eye and coat. A cavy in good health is sleek and glossy in coat, while the eyes are bold, bright and glistening. A healthy cavy is active and fast in its movements. An unhealthy cavy is dull in eye, open in coat and is slow and dull in its movements.
Having selected your cavies, they should be placed in nice, comfortable hutches, free from droughts and dampness, with about two inches of sawdust to absorb the moisture; thus the risks of colds, paralysis, rheumatism, etc., are considered reduced. One boar and three or four sows may be run together.
In selecting sows for breeding you should always give the preference to young sows as it is an acknowledged fact among many of our leading scientific naturalists, that the best results in breeding are obtained from young dams. In using young sows, care must be taken to have a boar at least 15 months old or over. This is most important. I am strictly opposed to the use of stock before the age of 7 months at the youngest.
If used earlier, the young are not so strong or so finely developed as when bred from matured specimens. Sulky disposed sows should not be chosen. The best mothers are found among those bright, happy individuals who know their masters step, listen for the sound of his voice, love the stroke of his hand and always greet his coming with joy and gladness being expressed by their coming to the front of the cage and trying to converse with you in their own language, doing their best to thank you for your attention and care bestowed upon them. Young cavies intended for breeding should be allowed plenty of room for exercise, so that when required for breeding their bodies are well developed and their constitution strong and healthy in every respect. Sows go with young 65 to 70 days. Some a little before and some a little later. Sows that are coming with young should be well fed. Personally, I like to feed soft food during this period; warm mashes composed of one part crushed oats, one part short, two parts good bran; should be fed every evening. In the morning good, sound, clean oats with a dish of water or milk should be given them.
Toward the close of the pregnacy period, a feed of warm bread and
milk should be given every morning. Plenty of green food or roots should be given during the whole period. Carrots are much better than beets at this time; they are sweeter and more conducive to a good milk flow. Breeding sows should never be without liquid or green food in their pens. About a week before you expect young the pens should be cleaned out thoroughly and well bedded with sawdust and bay. The young should run with their mother until five weeks old, and during the whole time they should have bread and milk, night and morning. At this time hay and green food should not be forgotten. A sufficient supply of both should be given twice a day. When the young are taken from their mother the sexes should be separated; it is not safe to leave them together after that age. If they are well developed (and they should be) they are very likely to get with young, and if that takes place all your labor to ever raise a good, strong show specimen has been in vain. The individuals that look like developing into winners should be kept separate from ordinary stock and fed on a more luxurious diet, size being a big factor on the show bench.
The young should be pushed as fast as possible from the day o' their birth until the date at which they make their “debut” on the show bench. They should be fed liberally upon bread and milk mashes, good sound oats, hay, carrots and green food. What you put into them at this age will be returned to you when you put them into the breeding pen.
It sometimes happens that a sow does not nurse her young well. This condition may arise from several causes. Should this occur the young should be transferred to another sow that has recently had young. In moving the young to the foster mother, you should see that she is a quiet lovable mother, and not liable to harm the little ones committed to her care.
Cavies, as a rule, are very good in this way; they have no objection to a stranger or two among their own babies. If a foster mother is not available, the young must be kept well supplied with new milk, thickened with fine oatmeal.
Although some fanciers run one boar with four or five sows all the time, I think it is not advisable to do so. When the sows are seen to be with young the boar should be removed. As to whether it is best to let the sows remain together is a much debated point. If the sows are littered together, it might be advantageous to do so, if they are peaceable bunch. But it sometimes happens that they are not; even some of the best are at this time inclined to be snappy and irritable. When this is the case, trouble naturally follows and in the scramble some of the young are apt to be injured. To avoid this, it is advisable to remove the sows to separate pens a week or so before the young are expected. It is a great advantage however, to have several sows lit-ered about the same time, for this reason; if one mother goes wrong in any way, her young may be divided among the others; or if one has a large litter and another a small litter,the mothering duties may be divided, to the benefit of all concerned. There has been much argument as to when is the best time to mate sows. One thing is certain. They will move rapidly, respond to the advantage of the boar a day or two after they have had their young than at any other time. This however, seems cruel and unnatural, to say nothing of the exhausting effect it must have on the sow’s condition and loss in size and stamina in her pregancy.. Personally I do not believe in such a practice of breeding. It is not right that while she is suckling one litter she should be called upon to carry another. Both the born and unborn must naturally suffer, to say nothing of the strain upon the mother.
If, however, she is well fed for four or five weeks after the young are taken from her, she will generally respond to the advances of the boar in a few days from the time of being introudced to him and breed strong, healthy young.
Three litters a year is the most I take from one sow, and oftimes only two. What you don’t get in numbers you get in quality.
One good one is much better than a dozen poor ones. In all your breeding operations, remember that the great essentials to success are cleanliness, purity of food, regularity in feeding, roomy and well-ventilated pens and the selection of strong, healthy stock. It is useless expecting to become a successful breeder unless these points are well observed. Neglect them and failure is sure to overtake you. Observe them and if you do not succeed you will at least have the satisfaction of knowing that failure has not come from any fault of your own.
This knowledge will spur you on to greater effects, and success is bound to sooner or later put you on the list with the best breeders.
To the true fancier, breeding is the most enjoyable and interesting branch of his hobby. The thoughtful breeder will spend months, working out in his mind the different matings of his caviary. He pairs his stock as experience and knowledge prompts him. Sometimes the results are what he expects, at other times what he does not want. But it is not in vain as you are obtaining valuable information as you go along, and you will get there if you give it your best thought. In purchasing stock it is well to remember that the best is the cheapest. If you have $40. or $50. to put into cavies, buy a trio rather than a large number. Young fanciers too often make the mistake of purchasing quantity rather than quality. It is not absolutely necessary that the stock Cavies should be show cavies. It is a fact that most of our greatest winners are not bred from exhibition specimens, but from their close relatives, from this it does not follow that tip-top specimens are not good breeders, the reason that exhibition specimens do not, as a rule prove the best breeders is on account of the long journeys and banging about which they get in connection with their show life takes a great deal of their strength and enfeebles their nervous system. No such drawbacks effects their faulty brothers and sisters who are left at home to bloom unseen and build up their constitution and transmit it to their young. The individual that goes here and there purchasing his stock will never make a successful breeder, as every new cross he makes only puts him back instead of helping him to reach the goal of perfection. A great many beginners go their own way and select their own stock instead of seeking the advice of the fancier that knows. However, there are some who like to select their own cavies from the pure love of the thing. To them a few words of advice may not be out of place. There is a great deal in the judicious mating of a pair of cavies, far more than meets the eye. In mating we want not only to pair two animals together, but they want to be so mated that the good and bad points of each, will blend into one, if not perfect, almost, whole. It is not simply putting a male and female together. Mating animals of any kind successfully is the outcome of long years of actual experience. Our most successful breeders mate their stock to produce results which experience has taught them they may expect. They breed for results and generally get them. They weigh up carefully all the little differences in shape, size, coat, color, etc., and then pair them so as to get as many good points, and as few bad ones as possible. They do not always get what they want, owing to nature “butting in” and causing them to throw back to some ill-formed ancestor. Although the power of reversion is so strong, it must not be forgotten that like produces like, especially when a certain line of breeding is followed from year to year. This is how the careful breeders get satisfactory results. It sometimes happens that you will find poor looking animals matched together producing first class specimens. Why is this? Knowledge and experience taught him and he put it to work. The sire generally speaking, will influence color and
coat, while the dam will control constitution, size and shape of body, these rules however, are open to many exceptions, due to special prepotency on the part of one or the other, or when there is much difference in the ages. Some Cavies mark their young with personal features that seem fixed in the blood so strongly as to overcome all opposing forces. Sometimes they will breed qualities that lie latent, and are not visible in the immediate parent. Properties which you have to go back three or four generations to find. In mating it is not wise to put together two, possessing the same faults, there are times when it is not needful to stick rigidly to this, but as a general principle it is a good one to work on. The question of relative age is another factor that often puts to naught, a carefully thought out mating. Given two cavies of apparently equal strength and vigor, the younger will usually have more than his or her half the say as to what will appear in the young. At times the result seems simply ruled by the law of average, and a vigorous yearling throws stock that show no points in common with a mate three or four times as old. Stranger still, some aged Cavies duplicate excellent qualities, even if paired to younger ones of less merit. Most successful matings consist in systematically setting weak points against strong ones and trying to produce the best properties of the parents upon one or more of the young. All around quality is what is desired in the high class exhibition specimen. This can best be obtained by building up a little at a time, here a little, there a little. It is impossible to get all the properties at once. And he who expects to do so will meet with disappointment. The true breeder seeks to improve his stock year by year in some particular point, by each breeding, and he goes on in this way each season until he at last possesses Cavies that can hold their own with the best of the fancy. If, in his first year, the young beginners has managed to breed a few nice youngsters, he should, if possible ask the advice of an older fancier as to their mating for the second year. If this cannot be and the parents have not been closely related, he should breed some of the young back to their sire and dam. This line, or in-breeding, some argue, is unnatural. They say it weakens the constitution, breeds disease and is the forerunner of all ills. I do not believe it. Its use is correct and proper, but its abuse does mean ruination and in quick order. It must not be carried too far, but carried out on careful lines, with patience and care it is the sure road to the breeding of winners that you will not be ashamed of. Some breeders are so constituted that they must carry every thing to excess. In their hands in-breeding will result in everything but what they are after. If the old original dam is of correct shape, color and coat, he should pair her to the one particular son most like her father. And the old sire should be mated with the daughter which is most like the mother. Such mating as this is simply rolling all the good points of your original stock together. It sometimes happens that a breeder puts together two animals which excel in some particular point, yet not one of their young are as high in quality as he expected. This often proves a stumbling-block to the novice as he has imagined that two Cavies extra good in some points would breed marvels in that respect. He finds it is not so, and in his disappointment discards both old and young, and starts afresh. He throws away valuable animals. The old breeder does not act thus, he knows that the point he is after are in the young, altho it has not come out at the first mating. His plan is the opposite. He pairs the sire to one of his daughters, and the dam to one of her sons, the others to brother and sister, and the next year doubtless puts him a long way up the ladder he is climbing. This is one of the points where experience often keeps a breeder from making a false step. Of course this close breeding must not be continued or disaster swift and sure will overtake you. Before I leave this question of establishing a strain I must strongly urge upon the breeder the necessity of keeping his best sows. Some think more of their boars than they do of the sows. In my judgment this is a big mistake. Over and over again you will
find breeders spending big money on high class boars and mating them with inferior sows. I fully believe that good dams have far more to do with the success of a strain, than good sires. Type comes from the mother and the fancier who is continually introducing strange dams into his caviary will never have a type of his own. We want cavies of a fixed type, no matter what variety we are breeding. Individual excellence and ancestry are the two most important considerations in breeding them. Individual merit alone cannot be relied upon always, for from animals of nearly perfect standard requirements we often get many poor specimens. A chance good cavy with poor breeding behind him, is one which should never be used, on the other hand a moderate-looking cavy whose lineage is good, will in most cases, prove a valuable breeder. You should keep a careful record of the breeding of your stock, and then you know the relationship of any pair you wish to put together. Let me say again never part with your best sows. And keep a faithful record of your breeding. If you act on these lines you will in a few years establish a strain that will bring you not only fame but a great deal of pleasure.
By M. Stoner
Interior view of Cavy house showing well arranged hutches. (Courtesy M. Stoner)
Being a breeder of Cavies for the past twenty-one years I think I have used most every kind and type of hutches, ranging from a store box with wire netting nailed on the front, to large pen in the yard enclosed with wire netting. I have also used pens in the basem*nt, but
the picture above shows an interior view of one room of my cavy house which I believe to be the most convenient of any that I have ever seen.
This building, which I designed and built a few years ago, is of the following dimensions. Length, 64 ft., width, 10 ft., height in front, 12 ft. and height at back, 10 ft. The roof slants to the north and has a 2 ft slope. On the front and both ends I used drop siding, while on the back I used shiplap and covered it with rubberoid roofing with all seams sealed tight. The roof, which extends 1 ft. over on each side, is also made of shiplap covered with rubberoid roofing. The entire floor is of concrete, however, in a cold climate I would suggest that the floor be made of good flooring lumber with the exception of the feed room, which should be of concrete.
The interior of this building consists of two 27 ft. rooms, one at each end of the building, leaving a 10 ft. room in the center for a feed room. A large door in the end of each room and one in the front of the feed room allows good ventilation from any direction.
ft. above the floor is a loft floor of good flooring lunmber. This makes a loft 4½ ft. high for hay and several tons can be stored there. This loft breaks the force of the hot sun in the summer and helps to keep it warmer in the winter. The loft floor opens down into the feed room, making it very handy to get hay down, while the hay may be stored in at a door at either end of the loft.
Now the picture above shows the interior of one of the two 27 ft. breeding rooms. The hutches are at the back and are 3 ft. deep, giving 7 ft. aisle in front where I use a two wheel cart that carries a bale of hay and a small feed box. The front of each of these rooms has four large windows 2½ by 3½ ft. These windows provide plenty of sun light and fresh air.
The hutches are 3 ft. square and 18 inches high. There are four rows of hutches nine in each row, making thirty-six hutches in the room. The floor of the bottom row of hutches is 14 inches above the floor of the room, making it easy to reach any part of the hutch without getting down on the floor. To reach the top row of hutches I use a small set of steps which may be moved along on the floor to any hutch you wish. The hutch floors are all made of good flooring lumber fit tight. The doors are full size 3 ft. long and 18 inches high, made of a 1 by 4 on the bottom and 1 by 2 on the top and ends. The doors are covered with 1 inch mesh wire netting and swing by hinges on the end and fastened with a small hook at the other end.
The partitions between the hutches are another feature of this building. They are made just the same as the doors, a 1 by 4 at the bottom and a 1 by 2 at the top and ends, and are covered with 1 inch mesh wire netting for summer, while in winter I insert a heavy piece of cardboard in the frame against the wire netting making it a solid partition. These partitions are fastened in place by a cleat at the back and a button at the front edge, and may be removed at any time by turning the button at the front edge and slipping the partition out.
By these removable partitions any sized hutch may be made in a few minutes, or they may all be removed and have one long hutch 3 ft. wide by 27 ft. long with nine door in the front.
For the top row r made nine extra partitions and by putting two strips of quarter round 1 inch apart on the floor from the front edge to the back of the hutch I can slip in these extra partitions making eighteen hutches 1½ by 3 ft. deep in the row. In these I place my extra males while not in breeding pens.
This room will easily accomodate 250 matured Cavies.
Ranching Fur-Bearing Animals
BY HARRY J. LaDUE Editor—American Fox and Fur Farmer
Valuable fur-bearing animals are decreasing rapidly in the wild, due to excessive trapping, destruction of forests, drainage of marshes and lowlands and increasing cultivation of the soil. Fur garments have always been in demand by mankind, and so long as Dame Fashion so decrees, and as long as people living in cold or temperate climates need proection from the cold, that demand will probably exist.
The rapid increase in population, the growing use of the automobile and the habit of living outdoors have not only made furs a necessity but have contributed to their scarcity. At the present time, the demand exceeds the supply, and the world is being combed in a vain endeavor to maintain the supply. There seems to be but one solution of the problem. That is the domestication and rearing of fur-bearing animals in captivity.
Fur ranching has attracted men from a wide field. Trappers, furriers, farmers, professional and business men, women and, in fact, persons from every walk of life have ventured into this new and fascinating outdoor pursuit. Since the world war, the industry has progressed with leaps and bounds in Canada and the United States. A deep interest has also developed in foreign countries and fur ranches stocked with North American fur animals are now in operation in England, Scotland, Norway, Sweden, Russia, Germany, Switzerland, France, Japan. Austria and Czheko Slovakia.
The most popular fur naimal amongst the breeders is the silver fox. Other animals have not been neglected however, and many ranches devoted to the rearing of mink, muskrat, beaver, marten, fisher, raccoon and skunk are in operation Beaver are being ranched in a semi-wild state in ponds and streams surrouded with retaining fences. Marten and fisher have presented a problem but there are a few breeders who have been highly successful propagating them in captivity.
This interesting North American fur-bearer has won world-wild fame in the last decade. It possesses a fairly tough hide and a soft, silky underfur that lends itself admirably to the new art of fur dressing and dyeing, It is probably the most widely used fur in the world and millions of dollars are invested in dyeing, dressing and tailoring plants devoted exclusively to the pelt product of the muskrat. With this increased popularity and demand has come a very noticeable reduction of the muskrat in the wild. This fact together with the utility of the muskrat pelt offers a splendid opportunity to the fur rancher.

Trappers are yearly reducing the available supply of wild fur-bearing animals.

A muskrat fence should have an over-hang on the the inside of five inches and on the outside of seven inches.

Muskrat farming is really a mis-nomer. It would be impracticable to raise this fur-bearer in close confinement as they require considerable range, a large quantity and variety of water plants, marshy and lake environment and must be raised in large numbers to insure profitable returns. Successful muskrat farming therefore, consists of guarding and caring for the animals in their natural environment, the preserva-tion of a breeding nucleus and the pelting of the surplus.
Profitable returns from muskrat farming depend principally upon the area of marshy, shallow lakes available for the use of the prospec-tive fur farmer.
Absolute control of your stock can be obtained by erecting a three or four foot small mesh wire around the marsh. This fence should be set in a plow furrow and several rods back from the shore, so as to give the animals the ready access to the roots and plant life surrounding tb marsh. Muskrats dig innumerable burrows into lake and marsh bant and in the nests at the end of these burrow's the young are usually born.
If a large number of muskrats are reared in a small marsh the natural food supply will have to be augmented by coarse vegetables. The important natural root plants should be studied and replaced when-ever possible. Cattails, sweet flag, lilies, rushes and other aqua plants can be easily ransplanted into your marsh, provided a little stud is given to their seeding and germinating habits.
It should be the aim of the muskrat farmer to gradually reduce the low grade animals in a marsh and to replace them with healthy, large. dark specimens. The most valuable pelts in North America come from Atlantic coast salt water marshes along the shores of New Jersey, Mary-land, Virginia and North Carolina, The muskrats from this region ar small but possess a pelage, almost black in color, that command to prices in the fur marts. Next in value may be listed the muskrats from Minnesota, Wisconsin and Michigan. This muskrat is larger and posses ses a rich dark brown pelage.
The material for the popular coon skin coats can be reared in small patch of woodland through which a brook runs or on the border of a marsh or lake. Motoring and outdoor enthusiasts have found the pelt of this animal peculiarly adapted to their requirements.
The northern raccoon is by far the most valuable, possessing, as rule, a rich, mahogany-colored pelt hat usually brings top prices in t fur market. There is a black color phase of the ordinary raccoon that has been highly developed by a few breeders and sold as black raccoon.
Raccoons breed once a year and the young average from three
six. They are omnivorous by nature and can be fed a variety of food. Fresh meat, frogs, fish, fruits, cornmeal and eggs are eaten with avidity. As a rule they are economical feeders and may be especially considered so when the fact is taken into consideraion that they hibernate for long periods during the winter months. Their diet just prior to the advent of cold weather should provide the necessary elements to carry them through the winter.
One fur-bearer whose pelt has gained favor in late years is the skunk. High prices together with ignorance on the part of the public will undoubtedly operate to seriously reduce the wild supply in the future. The average farmer looks on the skunk as a pestiferous species of vermin responsible for bad odors and raided chicken coops. As a matter of fact the skunk is an important economic asset to the farm. His principle food consists of injurious insects, such as crickets, grasshoppers, beetles, grubs, worms, bugs of all varieties, frogs and wild vegetation. A goodly percentage of poultry depredations if run to earth can be traced to the weasel, mink and fox.
The skunk easily adapts itself to domestication, given proper quarters and food, and it develops into a most interesting animal in captivity, losing much of its objectionable characteristics. Some breeders remove the scent sac from young skunks while others claim that if the animals are handled gently this is entirely unnecessary.
There is no reason why domesticated skunks cannot be raised in such a manner as to produce the finest grade pelts. In order to accomplish this the breeder must 1ay out his pens with care and forethought. They must include well drained lands with both sunny and open places as well as underbrush and timber and the water supply must be pure and fresh. In fact, if a pond is included in the runs so much the better. The insect life and the frogs, snails, etc., found around marsh borders form an important and highly necessary part of the skunk’s diet.
Insects are featured so strongly on the animal’s bill of fare in the wild that there is no doubt that the lack of them is largely responsible for the lusterless pelts produced on some fur farms. An eastern breeder has adopted the ingenius scheme of stringing several strong electric lights a few inches above the ground throughout his pens The lights are turned on for a period every night during the summer and attract a myriad of insects, great number of which perish underneath the light, thus supplying an ample quantity of natural skunk food.
Skunks breed usually in March and April, and the young, numbering from six to twelve in a litter, are born in May or June. They mature rapidly and have prime fur in December.
The mink has been successfully reared in captivity. The pelage of the mink is dense and when prepared by the furrier soft and beautiful in color. This fur is somewhat subject to the whims of fashion, still as evidenced by average prices quoted, it manages to hold its own. Mink pelts are especially adapted for use in making up small neckpieces so poplar amongst the motoring public. They are also made up into beautiful capes and wraps
Water is a prime necessity on a mink ranch; therefore land through which a small brook flows or a site along a lake or pond will prove the most suitable. The pens should be well shaded by trees and shrubs, as protection from a blistering sun is necessary in order to produce dark, lustrous fur.
Mink revel in fresh-fallen snow.
Mink thrive on a diet of bread and milk, fresh meat, fish and frogs. Milk should be a prominent feature of the diet of females with young. In addition to cheap fresh meats and fish some breeders have fed English sparrows and tame or wild rabbits. The fur farmer raising natural meat eaters can economize on meat rations by raising rabbits for that purpose.
Modern Type Minkery. Outside runs and nest boxes under cover.
Mink raise one litter of young a year, consisting of five young on the average. The parents require careful handling during the breeding and rearing season. The male shows cannibalistic; tendencies toward his offspring and must be separated from his family. Likewise the females must be separated from each other lest they kill their respec-tive young.
Silver, Blue and Cross Fox
The fox is being reared in all its color phases. The most valuable is the silver fox, that rare, aristocrat of the fox family that has been so highly developed through the selective breeding of the descendants of wild foxes captured by the early pioneers in the fox ranching industry.
The pioneers were faced with seemingly insurmountable obstacles. In the first place they were dealing with a wild, furtive and somewhat savage animal. In the second place they were faced with the genetic problems surrounding the retention of the rare silver phase. It took
A high-grade silver fox.
long, tedious years but the concentrating of many brilliant minds soon solved the major problems.
That the industry survived this period together with a wild-cat era, during which live foxes sold for fabulous sums, furnishes good proof of its stability. Since the world war progress has been made at an astonishing rate. The care and housing of foxes has been practically standardized. The breeders have been stimulated through keen competition in the pelt markets and at live fox shows to constantly improve the silver fox pelt and are now on the road to perfection in this art.
There are but two accredited and recognized fox herds in the world today. The Canadian Government has provided a Canadian National Record for foxes, under the Canadian National Live Stock Records. Every silver fox offered for sale by members of the Canadian National Silver Fox Breeders’ Association is inspected and passed by officials of the Canadian Department of Agriculture and must pass this inspection to be eligible for registration.
During the formative period in the United States two breeders’ associations sprung up. Each maintained a sparate herd book. In 1924 these two associations amalgamated and formed the American National Fox Breeders’ Association. This association is recognized by the Canadian Government and as far as possible by the U. S. Department of Agriculture. It is a mutual, non-profit sharing association, owned, controlled and operated by its members and was organized to establish and maintain a herd book of registration for the protection of fox breeders in recording and determining the breeding, blood-lines and pedigrees of the fox. This association has enjoyed a phenomenal growth and most of the fox breeders in the United States today are members and breed and sell only pedigreed, registered breeding stock.
The blue fox is a color phase of the Arctic or white fox and in this particular occupies the same relative position as the silver fox does to the red. Isolation on Alaskan coastal islands together with artificial selection by natives and white fur ranchers is largely responsible for the development of a distinct blue fox type.
So rapid has been the development of interest in this valuable little fur-bearer that practically every island off the Alaskan cost can now boast of a fox ranch. On most of these islands the animals are permitted to roam at large and their breeding and the rearing of young takes place under natural conditions.
Within the last few years, however, many ranchers have experimented with and succeeded in propagating blue foxes in individual pens. As a result the blue is now reared in most of the Pacific Northwest states and numerous ranches devoted to this phase are scattered throughout the northern tier of states.
Full-grown blue fox.
The blue fox is noted for its prolificness, litters from five to eleven. This fox is quite docile, hardy and once acclimated an extremely profitable fur animal to rear in close confinement.
Blue foxes at large on Alaskan island.
The cross fox is a beautiful animal and is easily produced by crossing the silver phase with the ordinary red. Many ranchers are raising cross faxes for their pelts and the product finds a ready and profitable market. There is also considerable demand for breeding stock. Only silver and blue foxes are registered in the herd books of the American National Fox Breeders’ Association.
Another small fur bearing animalofmuch value hasbeen added
toour list and we are pleased to produceherewith a likness of two of
these little animals so that our members can have an idea of how they look for there has been very few photos published of them to date.
The original Chinchilla (Langeri) animal is nearly extinct and valued so highly in its native country, South America that the Govern-ment has forbid the exporting of them and it is almost impossible to secure any of their skins.
Mr. P. McKnab who has chargeofthe dressmakingdepartment
ofMarshall and Fields Great StoreatChicago, advisesthe writer
that there has been a standing order on file with a prominent New York Furrier for over two years for a coat made from Chinchilla skins at the price of $50,000.00 but as yet there has not been enough of these skins secured to make the garment.
These little animals can be domesticated and some are being bred in captivity in England but I know of only one breeder in the U. S. and this party is located in Los Angeles. California and at present time has about 100 head, all healthy and breeding and I rather envied this gentleman of his little herd when I saw them for he certainly has a “Gold Mine” in his chinchillas. I admire him though for he spent considerable time and money in getting his start having spent two years in South America and with the help of natives succeeded in getting his start and getting them to the U. S. and acclimated after losing some of the original stock. I presume in a few years chinchilla farms will be as numerous as our rabbit and fox farms.
The length of this little animal is about 9 inches and tail about 5 inches, its proportions close set and limbs rather short. It lives in burrows in its native country and feeds on roots and nuts of various kinds and is very gentle.
Philadelphia’s Wister Institute, part of the University of Pennsylvania, specializes in breeding white rats, cousin of the gray rat, not ordinary sewer rats, that carried plague.
The rats live and breed in a special rat establishment costing $60,000 and are shipped to scientific bodies all over the world, including Japan, that scientists may work on “standardized rats,” and compare results satisfactorily.
The rats live, die and submit to disease infection, knowing as little as human beings about the why or wherefore. Little do they dream that their tissues, structure, growth and digestive processes happen to resemble those of men, and that they breed, live, die only to save a higher race from death. Even so, they know as much as we do about primal causes and final purposes.
Many do not realize the good these animals do for the human race and I am pleased to give my method of care and feeding.
I find sugar cases make ideal breeding cages for Rats, and I make them on the same design as the rabbit hutch. I make the front to take out in one piece, the bottom board being 4 in. to 5 in. deep, and to this is hinged a framework 2 x ½ in., which is covered with perforated tin or zinc, which I consider is warmer than wire netting. When complete, the whole can be taken out for cleaning, also at feeding time the bottom board keeps the youngsters from falling out of the box. I fix a shelf 4 inches wide across the box at the back, about 4 inches from top. This I find gives the stock exercise, also they like to lie on it when resting.
I also put in a few ventilation holes, inches in diameter, covered with zinc, they being at the back, near the top. These give the air a free circulation. I do not favor nest boxes, for the reason that if there is a scarcity of ventilation the Rats’ breath condenses, with the result the bedding becomes wet, and this causes rough ears and tails; for this reason also, I do not give any bedding unless the doe is ready to kindle. I give plenty of clean dry sawdust and clean out twice a week. Where there is bedding given I find the Rats carry all their soft food into this and it becomes wet, the result being rough ears and tail. Another cause of rough ears is the want of cooling food for the blood, the blood
being overheated. Give plenty of green food, dandeloins, carrots, turnips, broccoli leaves, new grass, any of which are readily eaten up and the Rats seem to enjoy them. When such are not available, a little flowers of sulphur mixed in the soft food is very beneficial.
I feed my Rats exactly the same as my Mice, viz., best whole white oats and wheat equal parts for corn, stale bread soaked in cold water, then squeeze out most of the water and dry off with a little Poultry Meal, making it crumbly moist and not too sticky, or it soon becomes sour, and injurious if eaten. There is nothing like handling the stock. I handle the babies as soon as they run about, and they soon get to know that I do not intend to do them any harm. This gains their confidence, with the result that they look for it each feeding time and never get wild or shy. Where many make the mistake, is that they put them in a box and then throw in the food and bang the door to lest they should escape. The result is that a few days the Rats, instead of looking for you and hearing your cherry voice at feeding time, dash about and try to get as far away as possible; thus the budding novice gets fed up and clears out, the fault being all his own, through mismanagement.
Visitors who see my stock invariably say: “Oh! how beautifully clean and tame they are, I thought they were like the wild rats.” The chief point to watch is cleanliness, free from damp and draught, and not kept in too exposed a position. If the Rats should develop a slight cold, which is noticed by the peculiar whistling and wheezing, especially in damp, foggy weather, a few drops of eucalyptus oil and spirits of camphor, mixed and put in the corners of the box, will soon effect a cure. Should the rough ears and tails turn up, make an ointment from a bit of leaf fat (pork) without salt, rendered down and dried off with a little flowers of sulphur. A few dressings will effect a cure, and if they eat any of it, it will do them no harm. I find rats very immune from disease, and the death rate is not one per cent.
One very good feature is you can keep any number of adult bucks together as they will agree, and you can add to or reduce the number any time, and they do not fight. This also applies to the does, whereas with adult buck Mice it is murder to put strange adults together. A Rat can be trained by a child to become a most interesting and intelligent pet, to my personal knowledge.
Raising Mice for the fancy as well as commercial purposes can be made a paying proposition and there is a great demand for them for experimental work in laboratories at present, and considering space required are profitable.
Another advantage over other animals is that Mice can be kept almost anywhere, so long as they are free from draught, which is their worst enemy. If you have an outhouse of any description, so much the better; if not, they can be kept in the cellar, the attic, a spare bedroom, or even in the coal-place. When the prospective breeder has settled where he or she is going to keep the stock, he must decide as to the kind of breeding cage he is going to use. I favour a box 18 ins. long, 9 ins. deep, and 9 ins. wide, with a partition 6 ins. from one end to provide a nest box, and two holes cut in the lid, as per sketch, for ventilation, and covered with gauze.
It is not even essential to go to such an expense as this, for a common dry soap box with lid, a hole cut in each end and covered with

gauze, and partitioned for nest box, will do just as well, although it does not look so workmanlike.
The care of your stock is very simple, but they must receive regular attention. Clean the cages and give fresh hay at least once every week, twice if possible. Feed regularly, as the Mice get to know when they should be fed, and regular feeding goes a long way towards keeping them in condition. It does not really matter whether you feed twice or once daily, but if you feed twice give them good sound oats and a little canary or millet seed at morning, and at night a little soaked bread, squeezed almost dry. If you are out at business all day, you may feed them at night only, giving them all their food at one time, but which ever way you start, continue in the same way.
Don’t keep too many Mice in one cage, as this not only causes a disagreeable smell, but soon puts the Mice out of condition. An adult buck a d two does are quite sufficient for a cage of the size mentioned above. When the does show signs of pregnancy take the buck away, and see that the does have an extra bit of soft food when you feed them. About five or six days after the youngsters arrive, they may be examined, and their number reduced to four or five i order that they may obtain proper nourishment from the mother, otherwise they will be weaklings when they mature and of very little use for breeding. Don’t in-breed too much, as this tends to reduce the size and quality of the stock.
Every Breeder should join the Specialty Club representing his breed, as these clubs are doing much good and are well worthy of your support.
The following Specialty Clubs are affiliated with the A. R. & C. B. A. and working in harmony with each other and hold their annual conventions together:
The Federation of Flemish Giant Breeders. Lewis S. J. Griffin. Sec., 812 East Costella St., Colorado Springs, Colo.
The American Federation of New Zeland Breeders. V. C. Reeder, Sec., 4234 Crittenden, Kansas City, Mo.
The Natural Belgian Hare Club of America. P. E. Hawkins, Sec., Kerrville, Texas.
The American Chinchilla Rabbit Breeders Association. Edwin H. Stahl, Sec., Holmes Park, Mo.
The American Checkered Giant Club. Chas. Weirick, Sec., 711 Hazlett Avenue N. W., Canton, Ohio.
The Havana Club. C. H. Brown, Sec., 1362 Getz St., South Akron, Ohio.
Allen, J. W., Box B, Tarrant, Ala., New Zealands and Belgians.
Denio, S. B., Box 720, Mobile Ala., New Zealand Reds.
Fletcher, R. L., 711 Dauphin St., Mobile, Ala., Hims., New Zealands and Am. Blues. Harrub, C. J., 110 No. Hallett, Mobile, Ala., New Zeland Reds.
Harvard, J. W., Government Street Loop. Moblie, Ala., New Zealands, Am. Blues.
Kortt, M. J., 131 Pike St.. Huntsville, Ala., Flemish. Havanas, Chinchillas.
Quimm, Raymond. 1015 McMillan Ave., Birmingham, Ala., Flemish, N. Z. Dutch.
Schwartz, Miss Christine, R. R. No. 1, Citronelle, Ala., New Zealands.
Zimmern, Alfred, P. O. Box 1332, Mobile, Ala., New Zealand Reds and Cavies.
Campen, W., Box 441, Wrangell, Alaska.
Banto, Oliver W., Wickenburgh, Arizona, New Zealand Reds.
Palmer, Thorton E., Box No. 52, Skull Valley, Arizona, New Zealand. Checkered Giants. Snell, Mrs. Grace, Fort Defiance. Arizona, New Zealands.
Wight, Wm., Box 966 Phoenix, Arizona.
Barre, N. R., R. R. No. 1, Mena, Ark., Belgians and New Zealands.
Dodson, Dr. C. A., Little Rock, Ark., Flemish Giants, New Zealand, Belgians.
Dupuy, L. I., Marianna, Ark., Flemish and Chins.
Goodell, Nan Patterson, Melrose, Ark., Flemish Giants.
Lloyd, Joe. H., 1220 Welch St., Little Rock, Ark., Flemish and others Mashow, Geo. M.. Paris, Ark., Flemish Giants.
Roberts, Henry, Sepanto, Ark., Flemish Giants.
Tune. Mrs. H. A., 1700 Broadway, Little Rock, Ark., Chinchillas.
Youngberg, H. A., R. R. No. 1, Hot Springs, Ark., White Angoras and Chinchillas.
Adams, J. G., Box 635 Hawthorne, Cal., Flemish.
Allen, C. J., Box 345, Pasadena, Calif., Gray and White Flemish.
Alcorn, W. D., R. R. No. 2, Box 860, Burbank, Calif.
Alien, Walter C., R. R. No. 1, Box 545, Hawthorne, Calif., All Breeds.
Anderson, A. G., 6829 Mera Dr., Los Angeles, Calif., New Nealand, Flemish Giants. Armes, Arthur, Route No. 7, Box 685, No. Sacramento, Calif. N. Z. Red and Am. Blues. Armstrong, S. G. F., Box 256, Petaluma, Calif.. New Zealands.
Atkinson, Wm. C., 2314 Budlong Ave,, Los Angeles, Calif.
Bacon, Frank, Box 15, Sebastopol, Calif., Am. Blues. Havanas.
Baker, F. W., 129 Melrose, Anaheim, Calif., N. Z. Reds, Am. Blues.
Banks, L. J., 2803 Chester Lane, Bakersfield, Calif., Chinchillas.
Barnhill, Sherman, Baldwin Park, Calif., Am. Blues and Chinchillas.
Barrett, S. E., 1718 Vine St. Hollywood, Calif., Flemish.
Barron, J. H. & Son, 1914 Hawthorne Blvd., Inglewood, Calif.
Barrow, Harry C., 29 Terracina Blvd., Red Lands, Calif., New Zealand Reds.
Bayard, Dr. C. E., Box 33, Temple, Calif.
Beaudette, J. N., 1601 San Anders St., Santa Barber. Calif.
Beery, B. H., 819 Alta St., Monrovia, Calif., Chins. Silvers, Blues, Himalayans, W. Flem. Bell, H. H., 374 Riverside Ave., Los Angeles, Calif., White Flemish.
Bell, L. C., Marysville, Calif., New Zealand Reds.
Biggs, H. St. J., 605 3rd St., Arcadia, Calif., Glavcots, Sable, lilac Him. S. Blue. Billings, L. M., Box 620, N. Alameda Blvd., Watts, Calif., New Zealands.
Binkley, Sam, Route 1, Box 155-C Arcadia, Calif., Chinchillas and New Zealand.
Bixler, Wm. A., 1170 W. Tenth St., Pomona, Calif., White New Zealands.
Bonzell, O. W., Box 167, Venice, Calif.
Book, T. C., 425 West 52 St., Los Angeles. Calif., Flemish.
Boss, Howard R., 222 N. Newline St., Whittier, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Bouquet, Irma, Box 361. St. Henena, Calif., New Zealand Reds.
Branson, H. C., 916 W. Huttington Dr., Arcadia. Calif., White Flemish.
Breeding, Ben G., 301 A, Bakersfield, Calif., Chinchilla, American Blue.
Brockett, W. G., 635 N. Menter Ave., Pasadena, Calif., Flemish.
Brown, F. A., R. R. 1. Box 12, Petaluma, Calif., Himalayas.
Brown, Gordon D., 1348 Howard St., Santa Monica, Calif., All Breeds.
Brown, H. G., 915 S. White St., Pomona, Calif., American Blues. New Zealand Reds. Brown, Mrs. H. L., 4455 Montalvo St., Ocean Beach, Calif., New Zealands, Am. Blues Havanas. Black Siberian, Hares, and White Flemish.
Burns, T. G., Box 156, Brea, Calif.. New Zealand.
Button, Walter H., 3rd Ave., Los Angeles, Calif., Flemish.
Carpenter, A. L., 1037 S. Figueroa St., Los Angeles, Calif., Steel and Gray Flemish. Carpenter, Thomas, 1025-I, St.. Bakersfield, Calif.
Chapin, Mrs. Donald, R. R. 1, Box 276, Arcadia, Calif., Am. Blues and New Zealand Reds. Chester, H. D.. 641 N. Azusa Ave., Azusa, Calif., Flemish.
Claypool, W. G., Box No.114, Altadena, Calif.. Am. Blues, Flemish. New Zealand.
Coleman, H. M., 2011 South Sixth St., Alhambra, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Conaway, C. R., 653 Pennsylvania Ave., Riverside, Calif., Flemish and New Zealand. Cousins, J. S.. 535 Lemon Ave.. Arcadia, Calif., White New Zealand.
Crarv, P Noarco. Calif.. New Zealand Reds. American Blues, Flemish Giants.
Cross, J M., Box 826, Modesto, Calif., New Zelands.
Cross. Rob Chas., 731 Second St., Santa Rosa, Calif., New Zealand Reds and Am. Blues. Crumm, J. J.. 1319-l0th St,, Oakland. Calif., Rabbits.
Currier, N. B., Gen. Del., Torrance, Calif., Flemish Giants.
urtis, B. C.. 4103 Rosewood Ave., Los Angeles, Calif., White Flemish.
Daily, H. C., 151 E. 117th St., Los Angeles, Calif., Flemish Giants, N. Z. Reds, and American Blues.
Dean, Jas. N., E. 7th & Euclid Ave., Ontario. Calif., Red and White N. Z. & Am. Blues. DeWitt, T. L., 4058 Cherokee St., San Diego, Calif., New Zealand Reds. American Blues.
New Zealand Whites, Angoras Steel and Gray Giants.
DeWolfe, Fred M., 1650 W. 79th St., Los Angles, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Dickenson, A. G., R. R. No. 1, Riverside, Calif.
Ditzel. Michael A., 1458 Rose St., Los Angeles, Calif., Flemish.
Dolan, John K., Box 1677, Los Angeles. Calif., Rabbit Hutches.
Dutton, H. W., 594 S. Fair Oaks Ave.. Pasadena, Calif., Chinchillas.
Duffy, W. B., 620 South St.. Paul Ave., Los Angeles Calif.
Eckler, C. H., Motor Rd. A, Box 150, Rialto, Calif., Am. Blue, N. Z. and Flem. Giants. Edwards, J. E., R. R. No 1, Box 501-H, San Gabriel, Calif.
Eggers. W. J., 257 West Stocker St., Glendale. Calif., New Zealand Reds.
Elliott & Cunningham, R. D. No. 1, Box 210-A, Santa Rosa, Calif., N. Z. and Flem. Evans, J. F., Baldwin Park. Calif R. D. No. 1, American Blue.
Evans, J. H.. 705 Wash. St., Santa Rosa, Calif., New Zealands.
Ewing. A. L., 42nd St., 1450 East, Los Angeles, Calif., Flemish.
Ferrell, Fred, 1360 Jefferson St., Santa Clara, Calif.
Ferrand, A. E. 5th & Palmetto Ave., Ontario, Calif., White Flemish.
Fitzgerald, R. J., Route 1 Box 22 K, Arcadia, Calif., Chins, and French Silvers.
Floyd. Russell, 809 No. Spadra Rd., Fullerton, Calif.
Fowler. F. Ward, Orange Grove & Vinton, Pomona, Calif., New Zealand Reds.
Freeman, A. C., 527 Monzaneta St., Sierra Madre, Calif.
French. E. A.. R. R. No. 427, San Jose, Calif.
Fritchman. Jas. M., 1335 Wash. St., San Francisco. Calif., Flemish.
Ganon, Mrs. N., 2735 Stockton Blvd., Sacramento, Calif., New Zealands and Am. Blues. Garbutt, R. P., 403 West F St., Ontario, Calif., New Zealand.
Garrison, Orville, 1212 Keniston Ave., Los Angeles, Calif., New Zealand and Am. Blues. Gemmel, Louella Marie, Box No. 145, Dunsmuir, Calif., American Blues.
Gillice, Pratt, Route 2. Box 310-F. Torrance, Calif., White Flemish.
Gibson. L. A., Sanitarium Napa Co., Calif., Chinchillas.
Glazier, Bertha L., 5th and Huntington Drive. Monrovia, Calif.
Goodro, C. H., 726 W. California Ave., Ontario, Calif., New Zealand, and Flemish. Gorman. Wm O., 1303 Ocean Front, Venice, Calif., Flemish.
Graham, Mrs. Earnest, Castella, Calif.
Green, Geo., 1862 E. 66th St., Los Angeles, Calif.
Gregerson. Mrs. Hackett. 11 Castro St., Hayward, Calif., Himalayans, N. Z., Cavies and Japanese Silkies.
Griffin. Cal., 6217 La Mirada St., Hollywood, Calif., Steel and Gray Flemish.
Guthrie. S. W., Box 1338, Taft. Calif.
Haalck. R., Box 190 R. D.. Bakersfield, Calif.
Haney. B. W., Box 489 R. R. 1, Rendondo. Calif., Flemish Giants.
Hannah. W. A., 1238 E. A. St., Box 183, Ontario, Calif.. New Zelands.
Hanson, Harry C., 609 Fremont Place, Santa Barbara, Calif.. New Zealand Reds.
Harry. J. C., 546 Willow St.. Long Beach, Calif., Flemish.
Hathaway, C. F.,BoxNo. 2, Cor.Waterloo & Effie St.. LosAngeles, Calif., Gray
Flemish Giants.
Haverwale, D. G., R. R. 1, Owensmouth, Calif., White and Nat’l Gray Flemish.
Hayes. Harry, R. R. 2, Box 457-A, Van Nuys. Calif., New Zealand Reds.
Hays. Geo. A., 425 Bradbury Drive, Monrovia, Calif.
Heffner. Geo., R.R.2,Box135, Arcadia, Calif., Am. Blues, Chin. Black, Steel and
Gray Flemish.
Henry. M. Wm., R. R. 1, Box 124, Whittier, Calif., Gray Giants.
Hertrich, Elmer, 2006 S. Garey St., Pomona, Calif.
Hess, Martin, R.F.D.No.1, Box154, National City, Calif.,Black Flemish Giants
and American Checkered Giants.
Heyking, R. A., R. F. No. 2, Auburn. Calif., New Zealand and American Blues.
Hibbard, Chas. W., Galt. Calif., Rabbits.
Holbrook. G. R., R. R. No. 2, Box 569, San Gabriel, Calif.
Holmes, W. N., Chamber Commerce Bldg., Pasadena, Calif.
Hovley. Peter P.,R.R.No.1, Box176, Arcadia, Calif., Am.Blue, Am. Checkered,
Flemish, Gray, White and Blue
Hunt, James J., 1606 N. Spring St., Box 1511, Compton, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Hunter, J. B., 826 Stevens Place, Los Angeles. Calif., Belgian Hares.
Hunter, O. W., 1906 Hillcrest Rd., Hollywood. Calif.
Ingham, Geo. L., Box 55. Bakersfield, Calif., Station A.
Irving, T. J., 609 S. Electric Ave., Alhambra, Calif.
Jones, S. R., 1161 Pine Ave., Long Beach. Calif., White Flemish. New Zealand, Am. Blues. Kalthoff, C. W. and M. R., 127 A, Rialto, Calif., New Zealands.
Kearns. Thos. J., Box 141, Chino, Calif., American Blues and New Zealands.
Kelley, L. T., 600 Metropolitan Bldg., Los Angeles. Calif.. White Flemish.
Kiler, W. L., Ontario, Calif., Reds and Blues.
Krouse, B. F., 4941 Saugus Ave., Van Nuys, Calif., New Zealand Reds.
King, Wm. M., R. R. 1 Box 174-A, Compton, Calif., Flemish.
Kinkade, J. B., Box No. 254, East San Diego, Calif., American Blues and Various. Krick, P. H., 313 No. Los Angeles, Anaheim Calif., Chinchilla.
Kittle, Pearl M., Camp Rancho, Perris, Calif., American Blues and various.
Lane, H. H., 640 S. Center St.. Turlock. Calif., New Zealand and Flemish.
Langevin, Victor N., 8918 Cedar St., Graham Dis’t., Los Angeles, Calif., Flem. Giants Ledlutter, Guy, R. R. 1, Box 160, Placentia, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Lloyd, Prof. W. E., University Farm, Davis, Calif., New Zealand and Himalayans.
Row, J. M., Box 218, Loma Linda, Calif.
Lynch, Mrs. Elizabeth, 737 W. 107th St., Los Angeles, Calif., Flemish.
Mardis, O. V., Gen. Del., Inglewood, Calif., Sta. Chinchillas.
McMullen, Mrs. Fred, 1843 3rd Ave., Upland, Calif., New Zealand Reds.
Meeks, Mrs. E., 809 E. Washington St., Petaluma, Calif.
Mensch, L. C., 656 Naomi Dr., R. R. 1, Box 203-C, Arcadia, Calif., Am. Blues, New Zealand and Flemish.
Merrill, J. C., 644 Jackson St., Pasadena, Calif.
Migeot, Peter, Monrovia, Calif.
Miller, Hugh, 105 W. Wilshire, Fullerton, Calif., Flemish.
Mills Rabbitry, 516 S. 2nd Ave., R. 2, Box 15, Arcadia, Calif.
Mills, T. W., R. R. 1, Box 65-A, 835 Fairview Ave., Arcadia, Calif.
Mitchell, J. W., 233 No. Arden Blvd., Los Angeles, Calif., White Flemish.
Moats, L. C. Jr., 1504 Golden Gate Ave., Los Angeles, Calif.
Mull, S. C. A., R. R. No. 1. Box 189, Redondo Beach, Calif., Flemish.
Newman, J. W., R. R. 2, Box 202, C 2, Van Nuys, Calif., Am. Blues.
Nogues, Jack, Gen. Del. Bakersfield, Calif., New Zealand, All varieties.
Olson, Mrs. Nels, Las Palmas Ave., Patterson, Calif., New Zealands.
Ormes, E. J., Los Robles and Benito St., Monrovia, Calif., Flem and New Zealands. Palms Rabbitry, 283 Bay St., Santa Cruz, Calif., Flemish Giants, New Zealand Reds, and Black Siberian Hares.
Parker, Floyd W., R. R. 2, Box 187, Arcadia, Calif., New Zealand Reds.
Pedley, F. B., Pomona, Calif., Reds and Blues.
Petry, Geo. M., 760 W. 97th St., Los Angeles, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Petty, Judge, Chas., 3357 Missouri Drive, San Diego, Calif.
Pierce, L. P., 1928 Del Mar Ave., Wilmar, Calif.
Pike, Mrs. Floyd R., 747 N. Claudina St., Anaheim, Calif.
Pluneda, Jesse S., Box 127, Tustin Calif.
Pooler, E. F., 212 W. Palm Ave., Monrovia. Calif., White Flemish Giants.
Powers, Etta E., Ontario, Calif., Reds and Blues Powers, Simon P., Ontario, Calif., Reds and Blues.
Pratt, B., 1135 McCadden Hollywood, Los Angeles, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Prosser, H. C., Box 432, Vallejo, Calif., New Zealands,
Rankin John F., 661 Ellsworth St., San Francisco, Calif.
Renna, Ralph, 1608-C, Fresno, Calif., Flemish and New Zealands.
Rieley, E. J., 914 G St., San Diego, Calif. American Blues.
Ripshiski, J. F., 345 W. Kelso St., Inglewood, Calif.
Roberts, J. B., 514 Mountia Sister, Glendail, Calif., White Flemish.
Roche, E. W., R. No. 1, Box No. 381, Van Nuys, Calif., New Zealand Reds.
Rockhill, C. C., R. R. No. 1, Box 527, Gardena, Calif.
Ronk, J. H., Gen. Del., Palo Alto. Calif,
Rothacke, C. F. 10747 Hortense St., Lankershim, Calif., N. Z. Reds, Blk. Flem. Giants. Russell, H. R., 185 Wapello Lane, Altedena, Calif., Flemish and New Zealand.
Salisbury, E. M., 979 North Maringo Ave., Pasadena, Calif., American Blues.
Schocher, Christ, Box 166, Newman, Calif.
Seguine, E. G., R. R. 1, Box 155, Placentia, Calif., Flemish.
Seven Palms Rabbitry, 14 San Mateo St., Redlands, Calif., New Zealands, Lormore and Parkes Prop.
Shaw, R. C., Route 3, Box 280, Pasadena. Calif., American Blues.
Shnriteff, Chas., R. R. A, Rialto, Calif., New Zealands, American Blues.
Smith, Otto, R. R. 1, Box 137, Arcadia, Calif., Chins. Blue and White Flemish.
Smith, Robert E., 546 East E. St., Ontario, Calif., New Zealand Reds and Am. Blues. Sohr, Jack, R. R. 2, Box 222, Compton, Calif.
Sovereign. Oral H., 2726 Cunard St., Los Angeles, Calif., Am. Blues.
Stanton, B. T., 1602 Cambden Court, South Pasadena, Calif,, N. Z. White and Reds. Steel, Lester M., Wilsona, Calif.
Stevens, Geo. B., R. R. 1. Box 339, Arcadia, Calif., N. Z., Flem., and Blues.
Stevens, Wm. R., 1178 W. 5th St., Pomona, Calif.
Talmage, C. Forest, R. D. No. 1, Box 129, Orange, Calif., New Zealand Reds.
Thayer, M. L., 3431 Garnet St., Los Angeles, Calif., Flem. Gi., Am. Blues, and French Silvers.
Thompson, C. W., 14603 Greenleaf St., Van Nuys, Calif., New Zealands and Chinchillas Thurston, M. L. 728 Chapman Ave., Orange, Calif., New Zealand Reds and Flemish. Tinklepaugh, A. D.. 2519 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, Calif.
Toland, Harry A., 1103 Kenzie Ave., Los Angeles, Calif., New Zealands.
Turlis, W. H., 1871 Hanford Dr. Pasadena. Calif., White Flemish.
Tuley, G. B., 2115 12th Ave., Oakland, Calif.. Meat Rabbits, New Zealand Reds.
Turley, Earnest J., 3117 Cottage Ave., San Diego, Calif.
Upham, H. G., R. R. 1. Box 84, Covina, Calif., New Zealands.
Utman, Geo., Gen. Del. Etiwanda, Calif., Flemish.
Van Dorn, Truman C., R. F. D. No .1, Box 63, Riverside, Calif., Checkers and Checkers crossed with Flemish.
Walbudge, T. A., 225 Columbia St., Wilmar, Calif., Flemish.
Walters, Mrs. E. J., R. R. 2, Box 80 A, Vacaville, Calif., New Zealand Reds.
Washburn, C. W., 602 Leesdale, Van Nuys, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Waters, A. E., 1098 W. Phillips St., Pomona, Calif., Chinchilla, White Giants. Waterhouse, R. E., 1183 S. White Ave., Pomona, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Waters, John D., R. F. D. No. 1, Box No. 346, National City, Calif. Stahl's G. C. Registered Belgians.
Waugh. F. A., 1216 N. New Hampshire Ave., Hollywood, Calif., Flemish.
Wells, W. A., 1345 E. 56th St., Los Angeles, Calif., Flemish Gray and Sandy.
Welp, Timothy P., Mount Shasta City, Calif.
West, Mark, R .R. No. 2, Box 25, Lankershin, Calif., Flemish Giants.
West, Geo. S., 5828 S. Flower St., Los Angeles, Calif.
Weston, D. C., 501 Imperial Ave., Los Angeles, Calif., Flemish Giants.
Westor, R. S., 218 W. Burton St., Lynwood, Calif., Flemish.
Whitaker’s Mountain Fur Farm, 889 Geary St., San Francisco, Calif.
Whitcomb, R. B., La Mesa. Calif.
Wisel, R. F., R. R. 3, Box 1591, 9926 Helen Ave.. Roscoe, Calif., N. Z. Reds & Am. Blues. Wood, Walter A., 3675 McClintock Ave., Los Angeles, Calif., Flemish Woodworth, M. P., 217 Leadora St., Glendora, Calif.
Zwissig, A. A., 9031 Hillside St., Oakland. Calif.
Aherns, Fred L., 1711 E. Platt, Colorado Springs, Colo., Belgians.
Albers, Mrs. Mary, Brush, Colo., Chinchillas.
Backus, Fred H.. 441 S. Ogden Ave., Denver, Colo., Flemish Giants.
Barton, Philip, 610 Broadway, Sterling, Colo., Flemish Giants.
Boni, Joseph A., Box 75. Stock Yards Station, Denver, Colo., Black Flemish.
Burt, W. B., 1116 E. Boulder St., Colo Springs, Colo., Flemish Giants.
Carlson, Vernon E., Box 216 Boulder, Colo., New Zealands.
Calhoun, M. A., 510 Dodge St., Salida, Colo.
Canfield, E. H., 410 W. 3rd St., Florence, Colo., Flemish and Chinchillas.
Carl, J. E., 2217 Irving St., Denver, Colo., Flemish Giants, Chinchilla & Havannas. Carlton, R. W., 2014 St. Clair, Pueblo, Colo. Flemish and Belgians.
Clinton, Jas. F., 118 Lowell Blvd., Denver, Colo., Checker Giants.
Cochran, Elbert O., 31 So. Lincoln St., Denver, Colo., New Zealand and Chinchillas. Collins, Lawrence, Box 233, Golden, Colo., Chinchillas. Chin Giant, New Zealand Reds and Silver Foxes.
Cooley, Victor W. Jr., R. R. 1, Carbondale, Colo., Belgians and Chinchillas.
Corrin, E. D., 2112 W. Kiowa St., Colo. Springs, Colo., Cavies and Lilac Rabbits.
Coulsin, Louis W., Box 134, Hartman, Colo.. New Zealand Reds.
Crane, Wilfred, 1452 Elizabeth St., Denver Colo.
De Ford. L., 307 N. 22nd St., Colo. Springs, Colo., Flemish Giants.
Eddington, John, 2706 Cedar St., Pueblo, Colo., New Zealand Reds.
Finley, Robt. S., 2621 Curtis St., Denver, Colo., Flemish.
Fowler, E. S., 2317 Santa Fe Ave., Pueblo, Colo., Flemish, Dutch, Belgians, Havanas and American Blues.
DeValon, Geo. C., Golden, Colo.
Frey, Karl M., 701 East Fourth St., Pueblo, Colo.
Gallispie, Geo. H., 516 N. Cooper, Colo. Springs, Colo., Dutch, Havanas, Hvy. Wt., Belgians, American Blues, White Flemish.
Griffin, Lewis J., 812 East Costello St., Colo. Springs, Colo., Flemish.
Hanshaw, A., Box 161, Laird, Colo., New Zealand Reds.
Harris, F. C., 821 S. Cascade Ave., Colo. Springs, Colo., Chinchillas.
Hawkins, Jas. P., Box 258, Boulder, olo., New Zealands.
Hollan, Geo. A., 2427 N. Nevada Ave., Colo. Springs, Colo., Heavy Weight Belgians and Havanas.
Honeyman, L. C., 416 N. Main St., Pueblo, Colo., Chinchillas.
Imherr, Geo., Julesburg, Colo., Belgian Hares.
Jagger, Theo., Box 1061. Pueblo, Colo., Chinchillas.
Johnson, E. S., 1481 S. Vine St.. Denver, Colo., Chinchillas.
Joyce, R. E., Gen. Del., Hot Sulphur Springs, Colo., New Zealand Reds and Flem. Giants. Kasik, Robert E., 1480 Jersey St., Denver, Colo., All breeds.
Kennedy, Joseph, Xaver St., 4586 Denver, Colo., Flemish.
Klumker, D., Hydrate, Colo.
Lee, Thos., 2113 E. Evans, Pueblo, Colo., Chinchillas.
Lipke, G. L., 2309 S. Rice St., Denver, Colo., New Zealand Whites.
Mallory, Jack, 3116 West Pikes Peak, Colorado Springs. Colo., Flemish Giants. McDowell. John A. Jr., 207 N. 8th St., Lamar, Colo.. New Zealand Reds.
Milke, Laurence W., 1412 E. 8th St., Pueblo, Colo., Flemish Giants.
Moninger, L. M., 110 Central Bldg., Pueblo, Colo., Chinchillas.
Murray, W. G.. 2917 W. Platte Ave., Colo. Springs. Colo., Hvy. Wt. Bel., Chinchillas, Norton, B. F., 3337 W. 33rd Ave., Denver, Colo., Flemish.
Peach, Harry J., 2635 Race St., Denver Colo., Flemish Giants.
Platt, H. W., 1102 Euclid Ave., Pueblo, Colo.
Ranke, Chas., Matheson, Colo., Chinchillas.
Riley, Francis. Fowler, Colo., Flemish and Chinchilla.
Reeves, W. H., Penrose, Colo., Flemish, Chinchilla.
Rocky Mountain Fur Farms, Lock Box No. 1281, Denver Colo., Chinchillas. White Flemish, French Silver, Angoras.
Rumohr, Chas. G., 268 Inca St., Denver Colo., Chinchillas.
Sachers, H. H., 1519 Ash St., Box 145, Pueblo, Colo.. Chinchillas.
Sharp, Clarence P., 409 Acero St., Pueblo, Colo.. Rabbits and Cavies.
Shepler, C. J., 1513 Claremont St.. Pueblo. Colo., Flemish, Belgians & English Cavies Silver State Fox Ranch, 900 St. Paul St., Denver, Colo., Chins, Black and Tan, Blue and Tan, Champ' DeArgent.
Simpson. Jno E., 3525 W. 39th Ave., Denver. Colo.
Smith, Alex, 4915 W. 36th Ave., Denver, Colo., Cavies.
Smith, C., 3115 Newton St., Denver, Colo., Flemish and Havanas.
Smith, Calrence, 4949 Raleigh St., Denver, Colo., Flemish and American Blue.
Summers, Marion, 1615 W. P. P. Ave., Colo. Springs, Colo., New Zealand Reds. Thomas. K. H., R. R. No. 1, Box 28, Pueblo, Colo., English and Abysinnian Cavies. Waldron. Maud W., 1421 N. Corona Ave., Colo. Springs. Colo., New Zealands.
Waters. Chas., 825 N. Walnut St., Colo. Springs, Colo., Gray, Am. Ch. Gi. Bl. & White. Weaver, Bert, 1434 N. Walnut St., Colo. Springs. Colo., Dutch and Himalayans. Western Cavy Farm, The, Wheeler, E. D. Prop., 1024 E. Costello St., Colo. Springs, Colo Cavies of all kinds.
Williams, E. S., 2117 Arroya St., Pueblo, Colo., Flemish and Chinchillas.
Williams, Marion, 2117 Arroya St., Pueblo, Colo., Flemish and Chinchillas.
Willis, Sumner, H., 2732 Dunkeld Place, Denver, Colo., Chinchillas, American Blue, Flemish Giants, and Cavies.
Young, Chas E., 8926 Tennyson St., Denver, Colo., Flemish Giants, Havanas and Chins
Brainerd, Miss Annie, 204 State St., Meridian, Conn.
Eldridge, Allan E., East Canaan, Conn., Chinchillas and New Zealands.
Glenn, Francis, A. D. V., 148 Williams St., New London, Conn., Chinchillas.
Pine View Rabbitry, Abington, Conn., New Zealand Reds.
Rechin. Mrs. Josie, Box 86-A, Mount Carmel, Conn., Rabbits and Cavies.
Sage, Walter F., 270 Blohn St., West Haven, Conn., Black Cavies.
Schultze, Oscar F., 39 Main St., Norwalk, Conn., Flemish, Belgians, and New Zealands. Schultz, Theo., Shuttle Meadow Ave., New Britian, Conn., Chinchillas.
Shaw, Alfred W., Maplehurst St., No. Haven, Conn., Belgian Hares.
Tarby, John, 48 New St., Seymour, Conn,, Rabbits and Cavies.
Baugham, Mrs. Frank C., Bridgeville, Delaware.
Cogswell, Chester, 3020 M. St., Washington, D. C., New Zealand Reds.
Green, D. Monroe, Bureau of Biological Survey, Washington, D. C.
Halefr, Anna, 2334 Mars Ave., Washington, D. C.
Alleman, Geo. N., Oneco. Fla.
Buchli, Daniel, Box 773, Vero. Fla.
Clayden, Harold, Gen. Del. Sanford, Fla., New Zealand Reds.
Fetty, J. C., Holly Hill, Fla.
Larrabee, Chas. M. D., Bradentown, Fla.
Peppercorn, Earl, 319 E. Church St., Orlando, Fla.
Tinker. Roland. 437 Ruth St., Orlando, Fla., Rabbits.
Wheatley, W. N., Box 1475. Buena Vista, Fla.
Wilhite, Allen, Box No. 6, Cantonment, Fla., White Angora.
Arnold, E. B., 214 S. Main St.. College Park. Ga., Rufus Red Belgians.
Clark, E. G., Fort Valley, Ga., New Zealand Reds.
Derst, J. W., Chamber of Commerce Bldg., Atlanta, Ga.
Hall, A. E., Box 178, Cordele, Ga., Chinchillas
Harris, Wyatt O., 502 Gaskin Ave., Douglas, Ga.. New Zealand Reds and Whites. Holcomb, Hugh P., 301 4th Nat’l Bank Bldg., Atlanta, Ga., Rufus Red Belgians, N. Z. Jones, D., 403 Merritt, Hawkinsville, Ga., New Zealands.
Palmisano, Leonard, 198 Barber St., Athens, Ga., New Zealand Reds and Belgian Hares. Miller, H. M., 112 1-2 Park Ave.. East Savannah, Ga., Rufus Red and Belgian Hares. Longino, Lester, 42 St. Charles Ave., Atlanta, Ga., Flemish Giants and New Zealands. Knowles, Dr. Leonard, Masonic Temple, Augusta, Ga., Belgians.
Patterson, Roger, 104 E. Hull St., Savannah, Ga.
Taylor, I. W., Station E. Box 3, Atlanta, Ga., New Zealands.
Tucker, H. B., 304 N. Troup St., Valdosta, Ga., New Zealands.
Werber, C. A., 21 Dunn St., Atlanta, Ga., New Zealand Reds.
Byrne, C. R., Dudley, Idaho, Chinchillas, Flemish Giants. Silver Tips.
Crea, J. B., Grangeville, Idaho, Chinchillas.
Gaiser, J. J., R. R. 1, Moscow. Idaho, Chinchillas.
Harman, L.. 317 Indiana Ave., Coeur D’Alene, Idaho. New Zealand Reds.
Harris, Marion, R. R. 1, Emmett, Idaho, Chinchillas.
Kalk, Albert G., Vay, Idaho, Chinchillas.
Howells, Bernie, Box 292, Oakley, Idaho, Flemish Giants.
Kintrsley & Rouinsky, St. Maries, Idaho, Chinchillas.
Land, Mrs. W. M., McCall, Idaho, Chinchillas.
Moats, A. L., Box No. 1219, Boise, Idaho.
Shelby. F. B., 2200 Fairview Ave., Boise, Idaho.
Peterson, Lyle, R. R. No. 2, Parma, Idaho, Chinchillas.
Adams, W. W., 195 N. Dearborn St., Kankakee, I11.. New Zealands.
Aldrich, E. D., 624 16th Ave., East Moline, I11., Chinchillas.
Baldwin, A. E., 1709 Crilly & Court. Chicago, I11., Flemish and New Zealands.
Bales, J. S., Route 9, Springfield, I11.
Bauer, Chas. E., 737 So. 2nd St., Watseka, I11., Steel and Grey Flemish.
Barthel, Wm., 570 W .Madison St., Chicago, I11.
Boden. P. A., 1108 N. 13th St., Springfield, I11., Flemish.
Berndt, Alfred C., 1207 N. 17th St., Melrose Park, I11., Flemish Giants and New Zealands. Bowes, Micheal, 6008 So. Peoria St., Chicago, I11., Rabbits and Cavies.
Brackman, Henry, 1203 Calhoun St., Peru, Ill., New Zealands Bruington, R. M., 800 Aiken St., Peoria, Ill., Flemish.
Cann. Clare, Peotone, I11.
Cass, B. C., Box 552, Chenoa, I11.
Cejna, John, 1809 So. 56th Ave., Cicero, I11., Rabbits.
Chamberlin, B. S. & Son, 1503 S. Roosevelt St., Bloomington, I11.
Cox, Edwin J., Big Rock, I11., New Zealands.
Davids, A., 1522 West 15th St., Chicago, I11., Checkered Giants.
Deichman, C. E., 1551 N. Church St., Decatur, I11., Flemish, Himalayans and Cavies. Edwards, J. B„ Buffalo. I11.
Erickson, Silas E.. 601 E. Benton St., Morris I11., New Zealand and Belgians.
Estill, Benj. D., 1004 Hobbs Ae., Johnson City, I11., Belgian Hares.
Evely, C. J., Harvey, I11., New Zealand Reds.
Fanchier, V. M., 7342 So. May St.,Chicago, I11., American Blues.
Fitterer, George, Box 464, Chicago, I11.
Flaherty, Miss N. M., 3024 Calumet Ave., Chicago, I11., Flemish and Cavies, Rats.
Getz, E. P., Box 187, Morton, I11.
Gomes, Earl, 817 1st St., Peoria, I11., Flemish.
Hagel, Howard, 331 Livingston St., Peoria, I11., Flemish.
Hensen, H. G., 1103 So. Marshfield Ave., Chicago. I11., Checkered Giants.
Hill. Gale E., 134 Cedar St., Galesburg. I11., Belgians and New Zealands.
Hodina, Frank, 1930 So. Racine Ave., Chicago, I11., Checkered Giants.
Hopkins, Harry, 804 Wabash Ave.. Mattoon, I11.. New Zealands.
Hunzicker, Mrs. E. F., Altamont, I11., Flemish Giants.
Insko, J. W., Donovan, I11., Cavies, Pure Whites and Utility Stock.
Isom, Dr. W. C., 327 Missouri Ave., East St. Louis, I11., New Zealand Reds.
Janson, Harry, 153 Cochran St., Blue Island I11., Belgian Hares.
Jones, L. B., 1546 E. Williams St., Decatur, I11.
Kelly, Walter R., 207 Rose Ave., Rockford, I11., New Zealand.
Ketcham, P. H. Jr., Box 42, Hinsdale, Ill., Laboratory Stock.
Key. Chas., 2244 E. Prairie Ave., Decatur, I11.
Kolian, Frank E., 2236 N. Parkside Ave., Chicago, I11., Flemish Giants.
Krunfuss, Fred, 101 S. Liberty St., Elgin, I11., Checkered Giants.
Lambert, Oscar J., Box 215. Bensenville, I11., Flemish.
Lawler, R. C., 317 S. Central Ave., Chicago, I11., Rabbits and Foxes.
Lister, Ben H., Toulon, I11., Flemish.
Mayo, Wiley, 1122 Illinois Ave., East St. Louis, I11., Flemish Giants.
McCoy, Maggie Mrs., Box 62, Glasford, I11., N. Z. Reds and Am. Blues and Guinea Pigs. Morrison, Earl, 518 N. Perry St., Peoria, I11., Checkered Giants.
Neitzer, Stephen, 2335 W. 71st St., Chicago, I11., Belgian Hares.
Nelson, John T., 20 N. Ashland Ave., Chicago, I11.
Oakley, F. A., 126 So. Stone Ave., LaGrange, I11., Natural Gray Flemish.
Parkman, L. Macy, 107 College Ave., Aledo, I11.
Patton, Geo., 1022 W. Prairie Ave., Des Plaines, I11., Cavies.
Penkava, Robt., 5925 W, Grand Ave.. Chicago, I11., Flemish Giants.
Penrod, Henry, Farmington, Rd.. R. R. No. 8, Peoria, I11., Reg. Rufus Red Belgian Hare and Commercial Flemish Giant.
Philpott, Ray S.. Newman, I11.
Piper, Arthur, 316 North Fairfield Ave., Chicago, I11., Cavies, red and Broken Colors. Probst, E. A., 935 W. Van Buren St., Chicago, I11., Flemish.
Probst, E. E., 935 W. Van Buren St., Chicago, I11., Flemish.
Ravens, Geo. P., 531 W. Mertans. St., Kankakee, I11., Checkers and Flemish Giants. Reinhart, C. L., 78 Chicago Ave., Naperville, I11.
Rogers, J. F., 1216 Maywood St., Peoria, I11., Flemish Giants.
Rollean, A. S.. 1700 Sagamon Ave., Springfield, I11., Flemish.
Rollenas, A. S., 2720 Peoria Rd.. Springfield, I11., Flemish.
Roozee, P., 7144 Emerald Ave., Chicago I11.
S lor, Amos, Glasford, I11., New Zealand, Am. Blues. Flemish and Cavies.
Schill, S. E.. 311 Johnson St., Peoria, I11., Gray Flemish.
Seipert. A. F.. 405 Laura St., Peoria, I11.. Black, White. Steel, and Gray Flemish.
Shell, S. E.. 502 Cedar St., Peoria. Il1., Flemish. Gray, Black, and Steels.
Shinkle, Harry, 1106 N. 13th St., Springfield. I11., Flemish.
Smith, G. E., 610 E. Jefferson St., Clinton, I11., American Blues.
Snell, C. P., 602 Leafland Ave., Decatur, I11., American Blues and New Zealand.
Staley, Geo. V., Modesto, I11., Flemish and New Zealands.
Steinkuehler, Ed., 1228 N. 14th St., Springfield, I11., Flemish Giants.
Stubenvoll, Rudolph, Des Plaines, I11., New Zealand Reds.
Sullivan, R. R., 1015 N. 14th St., Springfield, I11., Flemish and Himalayans.
Sullivan Ralph, 1015 N. 14th St., Springfield, I11., Flemish, New Zealands and Am. Blues. Thompson, T. P., Box 168, Harrisburg, I11.
Timmons, P. A., 2508 Richmond Ave., Mattoon, I11., Flemish.
Tipton, Roy, 708 E. Madison, Danville, I11.
Van Rissegham, Cyril J. Wheaton, I11., (Green Valley Farms, Chinchillas, White Polish Rabbits, Gold and silver Aongtis, Cavies.
Voyzey, Geo., R. R. 5, Box 45, Springfield, I11., Angoras.
Van, Der Horst, Assumption, I11.
Walsh, Nathan, 1240 Massasoit St., Chicago. Ill., New Zealand Reds.
Weygandt, Arthur, 7408 Normal Ave., Chicago, I11,.Blue Flemish.
Wirth, Cris, 213 Arogo St., Peoria, I11., Steel Gray Flemish, Natural Gray Flemish. Wolfe, Leonard B„ 4421 N. Lincoln St., Chicago, I11.
Wolff, Joseph, 8106, Marquette Ave., Chicago, I11.
Worthey, Roy F., West Elm St., Le Roy, Ill., Rufus Red Belgians.
Wright, Ernest B., Box 194, Alton, I11.
Zapushek, John, 905 Humbolt St., Peoria, I11., Flemish Giants.
Baker, H. E., 1308 S. Monroe St., Muncie. Ind., Havanas,
Baird, Oscar S., R. R. 3, Delphi, Ind., Flemish.
Bashore, J. D., 2310 W. Smith Ave., So. Bend, Ind., New Zealand Reds and Am. Blues. Beaman, Luther, 2202 Tippecanoe St., Terre Haute, Ind., Flemish Giants.
Beauchle, Richard, 734 Cottage Ave., Indianapolis, Ind., Flemish and N. Z. Reds.
Bedell, Geo. V., 17 Aetna Trust Bldg., Indianapolis, Ind., N. Z. Reds.
Bell, Louis C., 910 W. Division St., South Bend, Ind., New Zealand Reds and Flem. Gi. Bates. C. D., Beremen, Ind.
Bowman, Frank, 1830 E. Bowman Ave., So. Bend, Ind., Flemish Giants.
Bowman, J. C., 414 Greenwood Ave., Ft. Wayne, Ind., Flemish.
Bullerdick, Mrs. R. G., R. R. D. Richmond, Ind., Chinchillas and Flemish.
Bullerdick, R. G.. R. R. D., Richmond, Ind., Flemish and Chinchilla.
Burcham, H. B., 42 So 15th St., Terre Haute, Ind., Flemish Giants.
Carl, J. D., 805 Mechanic St., Ft. Wayne, Ind., Flemish.
Casady, Elmer, 1026 N. Dearborn St., Indianapolis, Ind.
Clark, Albert, Crawfordsville, Ind., New Zealand.
Compton, Edwin, 900 West Lexington Ave., Elkhart, Ind., Rabbits and Cavies.
Coovert, John L., R. R. 7, Box 42, Muncie, Ind., New Zealand Reds.
Cress, Sydney, 823 W. 6th St., Marion, Ind.
Dager, Geo., 1316 Maumee Ave., Ft. Wayne, Ind., Blue Flemish.
Dare, Wm., South Bend, Ind., Osborn St.
Darnell, Carl, 809 S. East St., Richmond, Ind., Chinchillas.
Eikenberry, Rev. J. K., Delphi, Ind., Flemish Giants.
Farver, Chas. E., Box 107, Lapaz, Ind., Flemish Giants.
Fehr, John C., 1302 Woodlawn Ave., Indianapolis. Ind., Flemish and Chinchillas.
Flora, Morris. Crawfordsville, Ind., New Zealands, Chins, and Flemish.
Fullois, Ed., 1209 Evision St., Indianapolis, Ind., Dutch, Eng., Silvery Gray R., Red
Black and Tan, Blue and Tan.
Gillespie, G. H., Monticello, Ind., Flemish and Am. Blues.
Goddard, Roy R.. 1032 S. Mecan, Kokomo, Ind.
Goodman, Ed., Route B, Gary, Ind., American, Checkered Giants.
Green, C. E., Parker, Ind., American Blue, Belgian Hare Meat.
Hartman, Walter, R. R. D., Box 284, Indianapolis, Ind., Flemish, Golden Agonti and Red Cavies.
Head, I. A., Attica, Ind., Chinchillas, American Blues, Dutch.
Hoffman, Karl E., 2134 Eby Ave., Fort Wayne, Ind., Flemish Giants.
Hunt, Lewis, 136 So. Collier St., Indianapolis, Ind., New Zealands.
Jetmore, J. I. & L., Turpin St., R. R. No. 13. Ft. Wayne, Ind., N. Z. Reds & Bl. Flem Judy, J. F., 2440 W. Michigan, Indianapolis, Ind., Rufus Red and Flem. Cavies Lab. Justus, J. H., 1020 LaFayette, St., Fort Wayne, Ind., Blue Flemish.
Kenwood Rabbitry, 3428 Kenwood Ave., Indianapolis, Ind., N. Z. Reds and Chinchillas Kunkel's Woodlawn Rabbitry, 1119 Olive St., Indianapolis, Ind., N. Z. Reds. R. R. B. 28B Lodell, John E., Hobart, Ind.
Long, Geo. A., R. R. 4, Crawfordsville, Ind., Flem. Giants and New Zealand Reds. Lowry, Elmer, 724 N. Bellview Pl., Indianapolis, Ind., New Zealand Reds.
Lowry, Fred, 908 N. Tremont Ave., Indianapolis. Ind., New Zealand Reds.
Luper, Chas. C., 1209 E. Taylor St., Kokomo, Ind., Rabbits and Cavies.
Martin, Frank, 2221 Brown St., Ft. Wayne, Ind., Flemish Giants.
McCormick, W. M., 1022 Sthoplet St., Ft. Wayne, Ind., Light Greys, Steel and Bl. Flem McIntosh, Geo. A., 700 Sherman St., Hammond, Ind., New Zealand Reds.
Metcalf, F. R.. R. No. 10, Ft. Wayne, Ind., New Zealand.
Parker, V. F., R. R. No. 3, Box 58, Mishawaka, Ind., All breeds.
Peters, W. H. 827 Walnut St., Mt. Vernon, Ind., New Zealand Reds.
Peterson, Chester, R. R., Delphi, Ind., Flemish Giants.
Pinkerton, Ross, 812 So. Bend Ave., So. Bend, Ind., Flem., Am. Blues, and Blk Siberians.

Potts, F. M., 716 N. Meridian St., Lebanon, Ind.
Poyser, S. B., 2119 Locust St., Anderson. Ind.
Reed. J. M., R. D. No. 1, Box 155-B, Michigan City, Ind., Belgians.
Reppert, A.. R. R. 1, N. Manchester, Ind., Flemish Giants.
St Mary’s Convent, Flank, Carl, Notre Dame, Ind.
Schnepp, Lennord, Colbern, Ind., Flemish Giants, Gray and Steel Gray.
Schultz, Wm., 527 Cottage St., Indianapolis, Ind., New Zealand Reds.
Ceifert, Geo. J.. R. R. 1, Mt. Cernon, Ind., New Zealand Reds.
Shaw, I. W., R. R. 2,Mishawaka, Ind., Box 81.
Sloat, Eugene, 606 N. Belville Ave., Indianapolis, Ind., New Zealand.
Smith, F. C., 209 Hiawatha St., Indianapolis, Ind., Flemish.
Snyder, Raymond, 611 West Conwell, R. R. 3, Dillsboro, Ind., Flem. Gi. and Am. Blues, Speedway Rabbitry, Speedway City, Ind., New Zealand Reds.
Swank, H. Ray, 1614 E. Main St., Muncie. Ind., Chinchillas, mainly and N. Z. Reds. Swey, Albert M., 500 S. 14th St., Terre Haute, Ind., New Zealand Reds.
Wallingford, L. B., 1603 W. Adams St, Muncie Ind.
Washburn, E. L. 1314 Ringgold, Ave., Indianapolis, Ind., Flem., N. Z., Dutch & Him. Washburn, Harry, 1314 Ringgold Ave., Indianapolis, Ind.. Most all standard breeds. Weidlinger, Geo. & Son, R. R. 5, Lebanon, Ind., R. R. Belgians.
Williams, Eugene R., Grabill, Ind., Flemish, New Zealand and Cavies.
Zuber, John J., 522 Kinsmoor Ave., Ft. Wayne, Ind. Flemish.
Ackerman, H. L., Bedford, Ia.
Allen, L. J., R. R. 3, Indianola, Ia., New Zealand Reds.
Barrett, R. J., 1st & Nebraska Sts., Sioux City, Ia., Nat. Gray Flem. Giants.
Bedard, ., Morningside Sta., Sioux City, Ia., Flemish Giants and New Zealands.
Berhow, Seward, care of County Farm, Nevada, Ia., Flemish Giants.
Blair, W. H., Lamoni, Ia.
Boardway, C. J., Manchester, Ia.
Bradshaw, J. J., 715 First Ave., Council Bluffs. Ia., Dutch.
Cherniss, Fred K., 1019 4th Ave., Council Bluffs, Ia., Flemish.
Christian, Mrs. George W., 1130 N. Fifth St., West, Cedar Rapids, Ia., Guinea Pigs and Rabbits.
Carpenter, W. I., 214 E. Logan St., Clarinda, Ia., New Zealand Reds.
Dickman, G. R., 1509 Harrison St., Des Moines, Ia.
Drumm, Miss Margaret, 2000 Grand Ave., Des Moines, Ia.
Drushella, John, Dakota City, Ia., American Blues.
Durr, W. E., Williamsburg, Ia.
Eastman, F. H., Bode, Ia.
Findlay, A. M., Clarinda, Ia.
Fricke, Adelbert, R ,R. 1, State Center, Ia.
Gallaher, E. E., 910 20th Ave., Council Bluffs, Ia.
Garrison, Paul, 1121 W. 11th St., Cedar Falls, Ia.
Hass, Geo., Cananche, Ia., Chinchillas.
Jungers, Henry, R. R. 1, Hospers, Ia.
Kelly, J. J., 807 4th Ave.. Council Bluffs, Ia.
King, J. L., 829 W. Main St., Ottumwa, Ia., N. Z. Reds Solid & Broken Color, Cavies,. Knoles, Harold, Box 134, Blue Grass, Ia., New Zealand Reds.
Madden, T. E. Jr., 409 Hammond, Red Oak, Ia., Skunk, Cavies.
Maxon, M. A., 218-c-4th Ave. N., Oelwein, Ia.
Nourse, G.R., Minburn, Ia.
O’Neal, C. W., 2440 ”G” Ave., Council Bluffs, Ia., New Zealands.
Pickwick Rabbitry, 231 N. Moore St., Ottumwa, Iowa, New Zealands.
Rathburn, R. E., 208 W. 15th St., Sioux City, Ia., Flemish Giants.
Ridley, W. H., W. Emory St., Estherville, Ia., Chinchillas.
Sawin, Paul B., 1422 Elm St., Grinnell, Ia.
Sissel, Mrs. W. F., 1008 Iowa St., Cedar Falls. Ia.. New Zealand Reds.
Steffen, J. P., 9 N. 12th St., Council Bluffs, Ia., New Zealand Reds.
Sulzer, Harry B., 1830 E. 11th St., Davenport, Ia., New Zealand.
Sydebotham, L. R., 918 N. Dodge St., Iowa City, Ia., Flemish and New Zealand Reds. Toedt, Carl, Kingsley, Ia., Flemish Giants.
Van Sickle, Harold G., 801 S. E. 27th St., Des Moines, Ia., New Zealands.
Walls, R. W., Turner, Ia., New Zealand Reds.
Walters, Paul S., 1020 4th Ave., Council Bluffs, Ia.
Bailey, A. A., 820 W. Walnut St., Salina. Kan.
Bolyard, Ernest, 1501 East 4th St., Hutchinson, Kan., Eng. and Broken and Solid colors, Cavies.
Bofinger, Otto, Lawrence, Kan., Chinchillas.
Bronson, W. F., 918 Louisana St., Lawrence, Kan., New Zealand Reds.
Clark, D. C., 936 East 11th St., Hutchinson, Kan., All Flemish, Dutch, and Checkers. Cox S. G., Pomona, Kans., Flemish Giants.
Delano. A. M., 1437 Otis Ave., Wichita, Kans., American Blue. Belgian, and N. Z. Fairchild, C. E., 1103 West Douglas Ave., Wichita, Kan., All breeds.
Fisk, L. D., Ellis, Kan., English Cavies and Cochin Bantams.
Goettner, Louis, R. R. 1, Box 1, Hutchinson, Kan.
Gordon. C. E., P. O. 42, Caney, Kan., New Zealand Reds.
Herb, Coffeen, 401 New York St„, Holton, Kan., New Zealand Reds and Am. Blues.
Holmes, C. C., Goff, Kan.. Flemish.
Ibsen, Prof. Herman L.. Kan.. State Agriculture College, Man Hatton, Kan.
Keck, J. A., Merriam, Kan., New Zealand and Flemish.
Kopp, rancis, Robinson, Kan.
Lefever, Ed. Jr., 1333 Fannie, Wichita, Kan., Cavies.
Mackey, D. J., 912 N. Sonse St., Pittsburg, Kan.
McKee, F. E., 126 N. Estelle, Wichata, Kan., American Blues.
Morehead, Joh, Robinson, Kan., New Zealand Reds.
Munneke. Mrs. E., 412 W. Fifth St., Holton, Kan., American Blues and N. Z. Reds. Potter, Amos M.. Riley, Kan., New Zealand Reds.
Publes. J. E., 1013 Jefferson St., Topeka. Kan., New Zealand.
Richardson, Carl, Route No. 9, Ottawa, Kan.
Root, Phares, Independence, Kan., New Zealand Reds.
Sawiu. Paul B., 1123, Poyutz. St., Manhattan, Kan.
Schoeff, Richard M., Haven, Kan., Flemish Giants.
Schroeder, J. H., Colby, Kan.
Security Benefit Home and Hospital Association, The, R. F. D. No. 8,Topeka,Kan. Shafer, F. M., R. R. 6, Holton, Kan., American Blues.
Shantz, Clyde, Box 355, Goodland, Kan., Flemish Giants.
Siebert, Kate, Box 64, Girard, Kan., Checkered Giants.
Slabach, M. D., Conway, Kan., Chinchillas, New Zealand, and Flemish Giants.
Smith, W. A., 1800 Clay St., Topeka, Kan., New Zealand Reds.
Stevens, Harry, R. R. 4, Girard, Kan., New Zealands.
Stine, Mrs. Inez, Little Rock, Kan.
Stoner, M., 1134 S. Seneca St., Wichata, Kan., Cavies.
Storms, Reed, Welborn Route 4, Kan. City, Kas., Belgian Hares.
Sunset Heights Fur Farm (G. H. Bruington, of Cameron, I11.) Lenexa, Kan., Chins. Swisher, Mrs. Lena, Nickerson, Kan., New Zealand.
Tabler, R. C., Cedar Vale, Kan., New Zealand Reds.
Tate, O. V., 918 Osage St., Leavenworth, Kan., New Zealand DeLux.
Westerman, Harold, L., Belpre, Kan.
Wilson, C. E., Box 300, Frontenac, Kan., Flemish Giants.
Davis, Claude. Box 14, Harrodsburg, Ky.. Blue Flemish.
Gilchrist, Winnie, 815 So. 19th St.. Louisville, Ky., Belgians.
Lippert, Peter C., 133 1-2 East Jefferson St., Louisville, Ky.. Chinchillas.
Lowder, Rowland O., Quincy, Ky., Himalayans, and Flemish Giants.
Richards, J. Leslie, 150 Seminary Ave., Madisonville Ky.
Allgood, D. S., Box 592, Antioch, La., Black Siberians, Flemish.
Bowen, R. M. & Son, Caddo Rabbitry & Cavery, Gen. Del. Shreveport, La., White Angoras, New Zealands and Red Cavies.
Delchamps, Julius, 2832 No. Tonti, 2573 N. Tonti, New Orleans, La., Flem. and N. Z. Stinson, T. A., Box 682, Haynesville, La., New Zealand Reds.
Bernard, J. N. G., Waterville, Me.
Burke, Paul, Weeks Mills, R. F. D. 52, China. Me., Chinchillas.
Cuozzo, R. Franklin, 719 Main St., Bangor, Me., Am., Checker Giants New Zealands Harris. J. B., Box 53, Salem, Me.. New Zealand Reds.
Hyde, Harold. Vassalboro. Me., Belgian Hares.
Levesque, A. F., New Sweden, Me., Belgians, New Zealand Reds, Flemish.
Reynolds, Rufus, Lisbon St., Falls, Me.. Guinea Pigs.
Smith, Gladys, Mt. Vernon, Me., Belgian Hares.
Speck, William, Richmond, Me., Chinchillas, Am. Blues and Silver Blacks.
Stetson, G. H., Monmouth, Me., Flemish and New Zealands.
Stiles, Lizzie J. Mrs., Smyrna Mills, Me., Flemish Giants.
Eakle, Roy S., Hagerstown, Md.
Kelly, Jas. A., R. R. 2, Harford Co., Darlington, Md.
Landis, John C., 820 West Washington St., Hagerstown, Md., Chinchillas.
Lovell, J. J., 3231 Strickland St., Baltimore. Md., Rabbits.
Mahoney, Lieut. John, U. S. N., Box 165, Raymond Ave., Indain Head. Md.. Flemish. New Zealands and Chinchillas.
Rank, William. 26 Lena St., Cumberland. Md., Flemish Giants.
Straitz, Fredrick G., 2877 Kinsey Ave., Baltimore, Md., English.
Stultz, Chas., 911 Chestnut St., Hagerstown, Md., Flemish Giant. Cavies.
Tate, John, 2621 Dulancy, Baltimore, Md., English.
Twentey, Louis, Middletown, Md.
Van Hoy, J. H., Silver Spring, Md., Flemish Giants and New Zealands.
Van Ness. E. M.. 213 Holly Ave.. Takoma Park. Md., Nat’l Light Steel Flem., Cavies Whitehead, Walter, Sunbrook Lane. Pikesville. Md., Belgian Hares and New Zealands Wilson, C. J., Harney, Md., Flem. Giants, Dutch and N. Z. Reds and Chinchillas.
Zeigler, Harvey F.. 64 E. Washington St., Hagerstown. Md.. Flemish Giants. Zimmerman, Mrs. L. C., 37 Wayside Ave., Hagerstown, Md., Eng. and Peruvian Cavies.
Alpert, Simpson, Pleasant St., Attleboro, Mass., Meat Rabbits.
Babbitt. Earl S., 36 Barnum St., Taunton, Mass., New Zealand Reds and Flem. Giants. Baben or Bahen, Paul, 1288 St. James Ave., Chiciopee Falls, Mass., Chinchillas.
Banks, Gilbert, Holliston, Mass.
Barnes, H. J., Acushnet Sta. R. R. Freetown, New Bedford, Mass.
Bartequ, O .D., Prospect St., Westfield, Mass., Flemish Giants and New Zealand Red3. Casserly, Paul W., Box 86, Topsfield, Mass.
Crouch, Chas. W., 7 Ernest St., Cliftondale, Mass.
Dunlop, Porter, 55 Teel St., Arlington, Mass., Flemish. Am. Blues and New Zealands. Finch, Job H., 2 Frost St., Marblehead, Mass. English Cavies.
Gandrean, Jos., Box 53, North Dartmouth, Mass.. Flem. Black, Steel Sandy Gray Flem. Green, Louis M.. R. R. 1, Vineyard Haven, Mass., New Zealand, White.
Green, Everett D., 14 Green St., Taunton. Mass.
Herman, Freeman A., 33 Nye Ave., Brocton, Mass.
Hubbard, Eliot Jr. M. D., 29 Highland St., Cambridge, Mass.. English Cavies,
Hansen, Alfred, 196 Chestnut Ave., Jamaica Plains, Mass.
Jenkins, Burnham H., Main St., West Newbury, Mass.
Kendale Caviary, 32 Euans St., Dorchester, Mass., English Cavies.
Lataille. Jos., 472 Front St., Chicopee, Mass., New Zealands.
Leach, Mrs. F. N., 88 Spring St., Stoneham, Mass., Flemish and New Zealands.
Leach, Fred N., 88 Spring St., Stoneham, Mass., Flemish and New Zealands.
Leonard. Ralph J., 11 Chester St., Taunton, Mass., Flem, Giants, N. Z., Belgian Hares. Lowell, Ralph S., 239 Auburn St., Auburndale, Mass.
Luce, Stanford, 19 Nepomset Ave., Quincy, Mass., Flemish.
Lunt, W. W., 1 Frost St., Marblehead, Mass., English Cavies.
Lurvey, F. J., 258 Broadway, Somerville, Mass., English Cavies.
Mandigo, Hobart E., 11 Chester, Taunton, Mass., Flemish Giants of all kinds.
Martin, Alfred, Box 53, North Dartmouth, Mass., Flemish, Olimpia Rabbitry.
McCarthy Bros., 109 Thompson St., Middleboro, Mass., Lyndhurst Rabbitry, Belgian Hares and Flemish Giants.
Mendel, Henry G., 94 Bay State Rd., Pittsfield, Mass., English Cavies.
Moreley, Mrs. Ben, Spring St., Ipswich, Mass., New Zealand Red.
Morse, Edward L,, Concord Rd„ Box 79, South Sudbury, Mass., Cavies.
Nunan, Arthur E., 81 Middle St., Lexington, Mass., New Zealand Reds, Rufus Red Belg. Packard, Fred Geo., 57 Beacon St., No. Adams, Mass., Smooth Haired English Cavies. Parker. John F., 924 Bellville Ave., New Bedford, Mass., Belgian Hares, N. Z., Flem. G. Peck, Warren H., 139 Standish Ave., Plymouth, Mass., Eteel, Black, and Gray Flemish. Purington, Robt. F., Box 126, Concord, Mass., Belgian Hares.
Ramsey, Chas. B., Box 4, East Haverhill, Mass.
Raplus. Harry E., Meadow St., Agawam, Mass., Rufus Red Belgians.
Rebstad, L. M., 175 Clover St., Worcester, Mass.
Rezendes, M. F., 45 Middle Rd., Acushnet, Mass.
Rice, Samuel, Ella St., East Saugus, Mass. Dutch.
Richards, Elias E., 4 Ellen St., Worcester, Mass., Eng. Silvers, Chine. Dutch, Himalayans. Richter, John, 81 Main St., North Plymouth, Mass., Flemish.
Sylvester, Albert, 165 Forsyth St., Roxbury, Mass., Cavies and Rabbits.
Rothwekl, Geo. 342, Warre St., Waltham, Mass., Cavies and Rabbits.
Saarm. Henry, Main St., Medfield, Mass.
Schneider, T. L., 84 Pearson Rd., West Somerville, Mass., New Zealands.
Seigel, Fred, 124 Main St., North Plymouth, Mass., American Checkers, Black.
Smith, Alfred M., 38 Prospect St., Whitinsville, Mass.
Swope, Dr. Oscar C., Main St., Kingston, Mass., Flemish Giants.
Taylor Robt. N., Columbus Ave., North Easton. Mass.
Wildes, Theodore B., Allen St., So. Dartmouth, Mass., Gray, Black and Steel Gray Flemish Giants.
Williams, Carl, North Reading, Mass., Flemish.
Wilson, A. K., 16 Dumore St., Roxbury, Mass., New Zealand Red.
Wilson, Geo. Ho., Route 1, Peakham Rd., So. Sudbury, Mass., Flem. Gi., White Pink eye. Wollrath, Albert J., 139 Beaver St., Waltham, Mass., Rabbits and Cavies.
Anderson, Fred, 460 N. Saginaw St., Pontiac, Mich.
Arends, G. D., 313 N. Dartmouth, Kalamazoo, Mich., Belgians, N. Z. Reds and Dutch. Armstrong, A. A., Edmore, Mich.
Ashley, Jos. S., 6523 Athens Ave.. Detroit. Mich.. Rufus Red. Belgian Hares.
Bachelor, J. W., 4009 Buick St., Flint, Mich., R. R. Belgian and New Zealands.
Bailey, R. W.. Roscommon, Mich., American Blues.
Bamm, Ed., R. R. 2, Flushing, Mich.
Bender, Matthew F., Box 15, Mancelona, Mich.
Berry, Luther M., Belding, Mich.
Bieniek. Paul, 1794 E. Gd. Blvd., Detroit, Mich.
Bingham, F. E., Farwell, Mich., Argent De Champagne.
Briggs, Leon, W. 2650 Jefferson Ave., Police Dept., Detroit, Mich.
Brown, J. W., 406 W. Maple St., Lansing. Mich.. Flemish and Eng. Spots.
Caselton, Wm., 1073 Lansing Ave., Detroit, Mich., Flemish and New Zealands.
Chambers, Theordore L., 1124 Lane Blvd., Kalamazoo, Mich., Rabbits, Flem. Giants, and New Zealand Reds.
Clark, A. B., 1658 Madison Ave., S. E.. Grand Rapids. Mich., New Zealands.
Colvin, C. R., R. R. 5, Box 94, Lansing, Mich.. Flemish Giants, Cavies.
Coon, Byron, 1637 Junction Ave., Detroit, Mich., New Zealand Reds.
Davis, Louis E., 1226 West Ottowa St.. Lansing, Mich., Rabbits.
Eggert, W. H„ Morley, Mich., Rufus Red Belgians.
Ericsson, Edgar, 604 Wetmore St., Howell, Mich.
Floyd, C, Gibbs, 742 Lane Ave., Kalamazoo, Mich., American Blues.
Garrett, Geo. R., 7724 E. Ferry, Detroit, Mich., New Zealands.
Glesner, F. W., Lake Linden, Mich., Silver Foxes, Mink and Rabbits.
Grandy, C. K., Drummond, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Grant, Sam, 54 Lincoln St., Battle Creek, Mich. Flemish.
Gross, Clinton E., R. F. D. No. 1, Gladstone, Mich., New Zealands.
Gunn, Irwin S., Hopkins, Mich.
Hagerdorn, F. A., 892 N. Leroy St., Fenton, Mich.
Hecox, John B., Portland, Mich.
Harris, Roy E., 161 Albertson St., Rochester, Mich., N, Z. Black and Blue Dutch. Henning, Chas., R. R. 5, Lansing, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Heuck, Henry N., Cornell Ave., R. No. 7, Flint, Mich., Flem., Chin., and New Z. Reds. Hyde, C. M., 14111 Appolene, Detroit. Mich.
Jankowski, Cass J., 4809 11 Chene St., Detroit, Mich.
Jesse, Arthur, Box 127, Alpena, Mich., Belgian Hares.
Jungel, Gust, 1536 Morell St., Detroit, Mich., American Blues, Flemish.
Kerner, Harry G., 140 Davison Ave., Highland Park, Mich.
Kilbourn, E. G., Flint. Mich.
Klalin, Theo., Royal Oak, Mich. R. R. No. 7, Box 838-E, New Zealands and Belgians. Krueger, John, R. R. 2, Flint, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Langdon, Laurence, Clio, Mich., New Zealands Rabbits.
Landgren, J. F., R. R. 4, Box 157, Birmingham, Mich.
Lange, Wm. F., 4061 Scotten Ave., Detriot, Mich.
Lee, Arthur H., 535 S. Warren Ave., Sanginaw, Mich., American Blues.
Links, Y., 306 Wall St., Kalamazoo, Mich., Flemish and Belgians.
Lucas. Judson F., 103 Morse St., Coldwater, Mich.
Mangold, Wm. F., R. F. D. No. 2, Farmington, Mich.
Marslek, L. R., Clarion, Mich., R. Red Belgian Hares.
Martell, Herbert A., R. D. No. 6, Box 77 F, Royal Oakes, Mich., Flemish.
McGee, B., 330 Powers Bldg., Grand Rapids, Mich., Silver Foxes and Chinchilla Rabbits. McGee, Wm., 20044 Coventry St., Detroit, Mich., Chinchillas.
Meiers, J. L., Howard City, Mich., Flemish.
Metz, Albery E., R. R. 3, Evart, Mich.
Mieras, D., 119 Grove St., N. E., Grand Rapids, Mich., Champ. De Argents, Flemish. Milbourn, Don, Lansing, St., Charlotte, Mich., New Zealand Reds.
Moll, Paul M., 4825 Dix Ave., Detroit, Mich., New Zealand Reds and American Blues. Morrow, J. L. Jr., Box 265, Lake Odessa, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Neddemeyer, W. R., 203 New Port Ave,, Detroit, Mich., New Zealands.
Nelson, Walter, RF. R. 1, Box 93, Rosecommon, Mich., Belgians.
Nicholas, William, 906 Franklin St., Grand Haven, Mich., Rufus Reds.
Norton, A., R.R. No. 1, Box No. 1265, Half Way, Mich., Chin, and New Zealand Reds. Norton, Leonard, R. R. 3, Three Rivers, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Nostrand, L. R., R. R. 3, Redford, Mich.
Parisian. Cecil, R. R. 3, Box 151, Lansing, Mich.
Peter, H. S., R. R. 1, Burt, Mich., Siberians.
Reynolds, Oscar, Dimondale, Mich.
Rinke, Geo., 1531, Junct Ave., Detroit, Mich., Am. Blues and New Zealands.
Sage, George J., 3116 Malbrough Ave., Detroit, Mich., New Zealands.
Sanford, H. H., 121 N. Garfield Ave., Traverse City, Mich., Flem. Giants & Chinchillas. Schwarz, Richard, Box 41, Pearl Beach, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Schmeling, Robt., Cassapolis, Mich.
Scholtens, J., 1180 William St., Muskegon, Mich.
Scribner, Dr. Geo. H., R. R. No. 3, Dexter, Mich., Chinchillas and Flemish.
Sherwood, Wallace, 672 North Front Ave., Grand Rapids, Mich., N. Z. and Champ. De Argents.
Silva, John R., R. R. St., Kearsarge, Mich., New Zealand Red.
Smith, Clyde, 1018 Crawford Ave., Detroit, Mich., New Zealands and B. and Tans. Smith, Harold E., Lock Box 103, Constantine, Mich.
Smoke, Gordon, 806 East Dayton St., Flint, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Southwick, B. A., 2226 Bancroft, St., Port Huron, Mich., Belgian Hares.
Spinck, Gust A., R. R. No. Box 130-A, Muskegan, Mich., Flem. Giants and Checkers. Spires. C. G., 10449 Sterritt, Detroit, Mich., New Zealand.
Stebbins, Dr. L. A., 106 Monroe St., Grand Rapids, Mich.
Stockdale, Harry, 301 E. Cross St., Ypsilanti, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Szalankiewics, Paul, 4738 McDougall Ave., Detroit, Mich., American Blues.
Teeter, Wm. S., 114 E. 5th St., Clare, Mich., Am. Blues and Chinchillas.
Thompson, E. W., Ironton, Mich.
Tyler. E. E., Box 96, Novi, Mich.
Valley Farms, R. R. 5, Lansing, Mich., Blue Flemish.
Viles, Alex G., Wolverine, Mich., Foxes and Chinchillas.
Vogt, Jos., New Boston, Mich., Chinchillas, Flemish Black and Tan Checkers.
Ward, Jas. W., 357 Emmett St., Battle Creek, Mich.
Watson, Ivan B., 915 Lincoln St., Traverse City, Mich., Flemish Giants.
Weinman, Fred, R. R. 5, Lansing, Mich., Flemish.
Wolf, Geo., Comstock, Mich.
Wilkinson, McGee Co., 330 Powers Bldg., Grand Rapids, Mich., Silver ox, Deer, Elk, and Chinchilla Rabbits.
Williams, F. I., North Adams, Mich.
Williams, H. A., North Adams, Mich., French Silvers and Chinchillas.
Anderson, John, North St. Paul, Minn., Flemish.
Biebighauser, Corwin G., R. R. 1, Box 75, Newport, Minn., New Zealands.
Bracket, Russell, 1915 James Ave., South, Minneapolis, Minn., New Zealand Reds. Corcoran, Bernard J.. Hokah, Minn., Rabbits.
Craig, Wm., Aitkin, Minn.
Engelhart, Leo A., Mound, Minn., New Zealands.
Erdahl, Engvald, R. R. 1, Box 30, Frost, Minn., Chinchillas.
Esplan, Carl, Cold Springs, Minn., Silver Flemish Giants.
Golden, S. P., Roseau, Minn., Chinchillas.
Gudim, A. J., Sta Louis Park, Minn., Chinchillas.
Jahn, C. A., 5201 4th Ave., Minneapolis, Minn.
Jorgestr, Frank F.. 714 N. 10th St., Brainard, Minn., New Zealand Reds.
J. G. Rabbitry, 3240 3rd Ave., So. Minneapolis, Minneapolis, Minn., Flemish Giants. Kenyon, Carl R., 2900 12th Ave., South, Minneapolis, Minn.
LaDue, Harry J., St. Peter, Minn.
McBride, Douglas, Box No. 187, Deerwood, Minn., Flemish and New Zealands.
Nelson, Richard A.. R. D. 1, Box 16-A, Deerwood, Minn., Flemish and New Zealands. Neuberger, J. F., St. Louis Park, Minn.
Nilson, Robt., Ah Gwah Ching, Minn., Belgian Hares.
Oxtra, A. F., Ponsford, Minn., Flem., New Zealands, Am. Blues, and Hims.
Palms, Vernon A., Lakewood, Minn., New Zealand Reds.
Rest Island Silver Fox Farms, White Bear Lake, Minn., Silver Foxes and Minks. Reidhead, J. M., Camden Sta. Minneapolis, Minn.
Robbins, C. L., St. Peter, Minn., Silver Fox.
Saterlie, Arthur, Pillager, Minn., Chinchillas.
Suk-Loddie, Denham. Minn., Rufus Red.
Thompson, Paul J., 905 W. Franklin Aev., Minneapolis, Minn., Chinchillas.
Thompson, Theo. P., 5309 Bryant Ave., No. Minneapolis, Minn.
Van Zantan, P., 3504 Minnehaha Ave., Minneapolis, Minn., Flemish Giants.
Wasche, J. A., Box 10, Bluffton, Minn., New Zealands, Chinchillas, Hims. and Cavies. Winkler, W. H., Luverne, Minn., Chinchilla Giants, Am. Blues, Havanas.
Wohlauf, E.. 1944 Minnehaha St., St. Paul, Minn.
Zenith Rabbitries, 1335 Minn. Ave., Duluth, Minn., Chin., R. R. Belgians and Am. Blues. Zierman, G. A., Mayer, Minn., Flemish Giants.
Halbert, W. P., Caledonia, Miss., Flemish Giants.
Hean, G. H., Box 200. Ellisville, Miss., Belgians.
Liddell, Jas. T., Learned, Miss., New Zealand Reds.
McCollum, Jno. A., 678 S. President St., Jackson, Miss.
McMillan, Horace, Box 33, Meridian, Miss., American Blues.
Barrow, C. R., 417 N. Colorado St., Kansas City, Mo., New Zealands.
Bartle, H. Roe, 11 Fidelity Trust Bldg., St. Joseph, Mo.
Beers, Wm. A. F., 907 Walton Ave., St. Louis, Mo., Reg. Fancy and Commercial. Benson, F. W„ 128 N. Johnson St., Memphis, Mo., Belgian.
Bernhardt, R. J., 5457 Claxton Ave., St. Louis, Mo.
Bird, F. C., 1334 Buchanan Ave., St. Joseph, Mo., New Zealands.
Brubaker, R. R., R. R. 1, Box 185, Fairmount, Mo.
Bunt, Jas., 1403 W. Kensington Ave., Independence, Mo., Chinchillas.
Bush, Lote, 5611 E. 23rd St., Kansas City, Mo., English Cavies.
Buss, Ruth, 1636 McLaren Ave., St. Louis, Mo.
Caldwell, Robt. J., R. R. a 5, Box 58, Independence, Mo.
Cook, Rex V., Plattsburg, Mo., Flemish Giants.
Dale, Jas. R., 407 Thompson Ave., Excelsior Springs, Mo., White Flemish.
DeYoung, Nathan R., 707 N. Kansas Ave., Marceline, Mo., New Zealand Reds.
Ditto, Wm., Iatan, Mo ..New Zealands.
Doile, H. I., 320 Cedar St., Fairmount, Mo., Flemish.
Donnel, Andrew J., Box 135, North Kansas City, Mo., New Zealands.
Everett, R. C., Osborn, Mo., New Zealands.
Friend, Jess H., R. . D. 2 Box 66, Independence, Mo.
Hake, Victor R., Pleasant Hill, Mo., New Zealands.
Harper. Chas., 6332 Suburban Ave., St. Louis, Mo.
Hartwig, H. A., 314 Wainwright Bldg., St. Louis, Mo., New Zealand Reds, White Mice. Haynes, F. A., 620 McKinely Ave., Kirkwood, Mo., Flemish Giants.
Hunter, W. A., Bonne Terre, Mo.
Jones, Roy B., 4904 East 24th St., Kansas City, Mo., Cavies,
Kerr, Ernest E. Dr., 217 N. Pleasant St., Independence, Mo.
Keys, T. R., 1305 Micheal Ave., St. Louis, Mo., Belgians.
I.each, Ike, 1043 S. 4th St. Charles, Mo.
Michel, Robt. L., R. R. 9, Box 45, Jefferson Barracks, Mo.
Morris, Ella, Holmes Park, Mo.
Paseo Rabbitry & Caviary, 4234 Crittendar, Kansas City, Mo., Rabbits and Cavies. Pierson, P. A., 5608 E. 11th St., Kansas ity. Mo.
Porter, Roy A., 426 East Alton, Independence, Mo., New Zealands.
Reichers, W. O., 2014 N. Market St., St. Louis, Mo.
Rhodes, E. L., Box No. 133, Litzinger Rd. Clayton, St. Louis. Mo.
Ruesche, T., 4323 New Stead St.. St. Louis, Mo., Flemish.
Sipps, Jos. W. Jr., Box 18, High Ridge, Mo., Meat Rabbits.
Stahl's Mrs. Edw. H., Holmes Park, Mo., Persian Cats.
Stahl, Edw. H., Holmes Park, Mo., All breeds of rabbits.
Starke, Mrs. E. D., 4650 Elmwood Ave., Kansas City, Mo., American Blues, Cavy Club, Stoddard, Mrs. C. E., 9 W. Hawthorne St., Aurora, Mo., Cavies and Mice.
Stoll, Gus, 4423 Beethoven W., St. Louis, Mo., Flemish.
Weickert, Alf., 3042 New Ashland Place, St., Louis, Mo.
Wuench, Melvin, 3808 Oakwood Ave., Pine Lawn, Mo., Flemish.
Yates, Harry M., Agency, Mo., Flemish Giants.
Young, Virgil B., Box 154, Rock Port, Mo., Flemish and New Zealands.
Christefferson, N., Paxton, Mont., Chinchillas.
Dirkes, Bernard, 812 N. 24th St.. Billings Mont., Chinchillas.
Dotter, Arthur, Finch, Mont., New Zealands, Flemish, and Chinchillas.
Fitzgerald, Jay, Lodge Grass, Mont., Rabbits and Foxes.
Freeman, Richard, Great Falls, Mont., Flemish Giants, 815 8th Ave.
Garrison, J. H., Box 1338, Missoula, Mont.
Goldman Mrs. Geo. L., Shepherd, Mont., Flemish Giants.
Hanson, H. C., Dooley, Mont., American Blues, Black Siberians, Flemish and Cavies. Hanson, Robert, Sapphire Ranch, Utica, Mont.
Mai-Ishmael, R. R. Box 53. Bridger, Mont., New Zealand Reds.
Ruetten, Peter G., Cut Bank, Mont.
Smit, Fred L., Lima. Mont.
Vickers, L. N., Hardin, Mont., Chickens, Turkeys, Ducks, Guineas, Bantams, Etc., Fox Terrier dogs, Angora Cats, rabbits and Cavies.
Temin, Ben Zion, Cultey on De Crista, Gayocan, Mexico, Rabbits.
Armbright, Warren, 300 E. Palmer, So. Sioux City, Nebr., Rufus Red Belgians.
Barrie, A. S., Park St., Campbell, Nebr., Flemish Giants.
Behrens, Melvin E., R. 2, Shelby, Neb., Rufus Red.
Carlson, A. C., Box 283, Elgin, Neb.
Colglazier, L. A., 2107 Lane St., Falls City, Neb., Flemish Giants.
Cordes. E., Orleans, Neb., Belgians and Poultry.
Girl, G. A., Rockford, Neb., New Zealands.
Hill, Dr D. T., Syracuse, Neb.
Jones, W. S., 408 West Eleventh St., North Platte, Neb., Chinchillas and Checkers. Kamarad, Frank E., Ord, Neb., Flemish Giants and Chinchillas.
Kier, W. J., 3 St.. 12 Corso, Neb. City, Neb. New Zealand Reds and Chinchillas.
Mills, R. M., North Platte, Neb.
Moul, Miss Jane, Ord, Neb.
Parker, H. K.. 3033 Burdette Ave., Omaha. Neb.
Phillips, B., Arapahoe, Neb., New Zealand Reds and White Flemish Giants.
Quick, S. R., Morrill, Neb.
Rabel, W. J., 2236 S. 9th St., Lincoln, Neb.
Reddington, R. R., 706 South 30th St., Omaha, Neb.
Rogers, M. C., North Platte, Neb., All varieties Flemish, Belgians, Etc.
Swalley, H. B., Neb. City. Neb., White and Gray Flemish.
Thingan, Matthew, Murdock, Neb., New Zealand Reds.
Wells, T. H., Sidney, Neb., Flemish.
Whitney, C. F. W., 2123 Douglis St., Omaha, Neb.
Wiig, G. P., 1810 Vinton St., Omaha, Neb., Rabbits, Hims. and Flemish.
Allen.James, 1558 G. St.. Sparks, Nev., New Zealands.
Bell, P. W., Winnemucca, Nev., Chinchilla and American Blues.
Hooten, J. F., Reno, Nev., American Blues.
King & Hollan, Battle Mountain, Nev., Chinchillas.
Pieh, J. H., Box 98, Reno, Nev., Flemish Giants.
Travis, J. A., Box No. 644, Fallon, Nev.
Wade, Kenneth, Dyer, Nev., Chinchillas.
Carney, John J., R. R. 1, Hudson, N. H.. New Zealand. Am. Blues, Chins., and Argent D’ Christian, Alfred J., East Jaffrey, N. H., New Zealand Reds and Cavies.
Young, C. H., Wilton, N. H., Flemish Giants.
Aardema, Sam, 335 East 18th St., Paterson, N. J.
Ainscough, James, 919 East 24th St., Paterson, N. J.
Bohren, John, Belmont Ave., North Haledon, N. J.
Bosloper, Jacob, 283 North 14th St., Paterson, N. J.
Burkhardt, Fred, R. R. Johnson Ave., Rutherford, N. J.
Church, Hugh, 462 Division St., Perth Amboy, N. J., American Blues.
Crockett, Chas., 12 Stockton St., Nutley, N. J., New Zealands and Checkered Giants. Dietrich, Fred R., Newark, N. J..Rabbits, White Mice, White Rats.
Doran, Peter. R. R. 2, Ridgewood, N. J.
Drada, Charles, 42 Van Winkle Ave., Garfield, N. J.
Eccles, Mary E., Morris Turnpike, Short Hills, N. J., New Zealand Whites.
Engelsman, Jacob, Oakwood Ave., North Haledon, N. J., Rabbits.
Fiedler, Ernest C., Main Rd., Mellville, N. J.
Fischbeck, Geo., 18 Mt. Pleasant Ave., East Rutherford, N. J.
Harris, William, R. R. 19, Red Cloud Rabbitry, New Brunswick, N. J.
Jeshke, Max, 148 Woodlawn Ave., Pleasantville, N. J.
Kramer, Gotthiff. John, 38 Orchard St.. Garfield, N. J., Rabbits.
Kroeze, R. J., Oakwood Ave.. North Haledon, (PO) Paterson, N. J., Flemish Giants. I.icht, Peter, 229 Park Ave., Nutley, N. J.
Lockwood A. N., 476 Cenvoer Terrace, Orange. N. J.
Lovett. Frank 167 12th Ave., Patterson, N. J., Flemish and New Zealands.
Matsinger, Jacob, 11 Virginia Ave., Paterson, N. J.
Miller, Robt., 5-13 Ida St., Paterson, N. J.
Molema, S. & Son, 83 Forest Ave., Hawthorne, N. J.
Murr, Chas., Vineland, N. J.
Nicholas, Robt. C., Bishop Place, New Brunswick, N. J., Chinchillas.
Nissen, Richard, 611 Jefferson St., Carlstadt, N. J.
O’Rourke, J. C., 100 Trask, Bayonne. N. J.
Osenga, William, Franklin Turnpike. Mahwah, N. J., New Zealands and Cavies.
Parrish, U. R., Pleasantville, N. J., New Zealands.
Rivollier, Mrs. Eugnie, 394 Central Ave., Hawthorne, N. J., Chinc, and Blue Viennas. Ross, F. R. W., 38 Berwyn St., Orange, N. J., Flemish.
Sargent, E. L., 85 Adealide Ave., New Brunswick, N. J. .Chin., Am. Blues, Flem., N. Z. and Rufus Red.
Saylimbene, Frank, Pennington, N. J., Flemish Giants.
Scharff, J. H., 74 Stager St., Nutley, N. J., Flemish and Checkers.
Scheffer, Herbert F., Annandale, N. J., Flemish and Now Zealand Reds.
Schlenker, Geo., 683 Hackensack Plank Rd., North Bergen, N. J.. Flemish.
Sellner, Thos., L. LaRue, Oakwood Ave., North Haledon (PO) Paterson, N. J., Am. Blues. Seyfried, W. J., 397 Center St., Phillipsburg, N. J., English Rabbits.
Stickler, Burton, R. R. 2, Vineland, N. J.
Stong, Krine, 122 6th Ave., Paterson, N. J., Flemish Giants.
Talbot, Richard B., Box No. 326, Mendhan, N. J.
Trauwborst, G. C. Sr., Oakwood Ave., N. Haledon (PO) Paterson, N. J. Flem. Giants. Verhasselt, Gus, 26 Hillman St., Paterson, N. J.
Wiersing, Wm., 84 Cortland St., Belleville, N. J.
Wilkes, James H.. Somerville Rd., Pluckemin, N. J., Chins., Flemish and Skunks. Wright, C. W., (Mercer Rabbitry) 220 Stockton St., Hightstown, N. J., N. Z., Chins.
Adams, John Q.. 720 E. Manhattan, Box No. 404. Santa Fe, New Mex. N. Z. Reds. B. & B. Rabbitry, 815 S. Edith St., Albuquerque, N. M.
McCombs, Paul, R. R. 1, Box 141, Roswell. N. M., New Zealand Reds.
Savage, Harry, Box 291, Albuquerque, N. M., Gray Flemish.
Strutz, J. O.. Soccoro County, Magdalena, N. M., Flemish Giants.
Williamson, M. Paul, Ideal Theatre. Albuquerque, N. M., Flemish.
Arnold, F. Cameron, Babylon, N. Y., Cavies, Angoras.
Arnold, Richard, Babylon, N. Y., Cavies, Angoras.
Baggerly, Guy C., Avoca, N. Y.
Raker, Claude E., Box 198, Mannsville, N. Y.
Barton. Geo., 83 Garfield St., Rochester, N. Y.
Batcheller, H. C., 32 S. Main St., Gloerville, N. Y., Flemish and French Havanas. Blanchard, F. A., R. R. 6, Cortland, N. Y., Eleven varieties.
Bates, W. C., Sag Harbor, N. Y. All varieties.
Branson, Russell, 36 E. 72d St., New York, N. Y., New Zealands.
Bowen, Royal F., 15 So. Main St., Franklinville, N. Y., Chinchillas.
Buckmaster, John, 528 Albert St., Levanna On Hudson, N. Y.
Bucoro Fur Farm, Henderson, N. Y.
Button, Kenneth P., 65 Highland Drive, Rochester, N. Y., Chinchillas.
Clare, W. M. C., 165 W. Utica St., Oswego, N. Y., Belgian Hares, N. Zealands.
Conner, E. Raymond, 124 Averill Ave., Rochester, N. Y., Chins. Giants, Eng. Cavies. Colombo, O.. 57 John St., New Rochelle, N. Y.
Clarke, J. Rowley, Jr., 579 Wellington, Ave., Rochester, N. Y., Chinchillas.
Conner. J. H., 87 Kingston St., Rochester, N. Y.
Couch, V. M., 508 So. Aurora, Ithaca, N. Y., Columbian Wyandotte fowls. New Zealand Reds, and Flemish Giants.
Cox, Albert B., 1560 Main St., East Rochester, N. Y„ English, Abyssinians and Peruvians. Cavies, in nearly all varieties.
Czerhak. Frank, R. R. 13, North Tinawanda, N. Y., Chinchillas.
Daily, Thos., Sherburn, N. Y.
Dampier. Fred, 7 Chase Park Ave., Batavia, N. Y., Giants.
Daum, Carl J., Westchester Co.. Box 256, Hawthorne, N. Y., New Zealands.
DeLano, Warren, 179 S. Main St., Batavia. N. Y., Chinchillas.
Deyo, C. A., Schoharie, N. Y., Flemish Giants and Belgian Hares.
Diehl, John, 246 Winfred Ave., Yonkers, N. Y., Belgian Hares.
Downing, Arthur, R. F. D. No. 1, Gouverneur, N. Y., Flemish Giants.
Downs, Clifford. Main St., Aquebogne, Long Island, N. Y., Chinchillas.
Drake, S. A., 273 S. Main St., Jamestown, N. Y.
Drushler, H. P., Willow St., East Aurora, N. Y., Chinchillas.
Durban, P. M., DeKalb Junction, N. Y., Rufus Red. (?????)
Edwards, E. M., 43 Love St., Rochester, N. Y.
Eltman, Wm., 299 Ainslie St., Brooklyn, N. Y,, Flemish Giants and New Zealands. Erbse, Chas., R. R. 1, Long Eddy, N. Y.
Gaydou, Adolph, 1847 Barnes Ave., Bronx. N. Y.
Gerlach, Geo. W., Waterloo, N. Y., Flemish, R. R. Belgians and Dutch.
Gilbert, H. C., 187 Shotwell Park, Syracuse, N. Y., Dutch and English.
Goubeaud, John R., 8832 Barrett St., Jamaica, N. Y.
Greenwood, William A., 87 George St., Green Island. Albany Co., N. Y., Flem. Giants. Gumtow, C. H., 24 Grove St., Silver Creek, N.Y., Flemish Giants.
Hackford, E. A., South St., Marcellus, N. Y., New Zealand and Flemish Giants. Hampson, Sydney, 274 Mt. Hope Ave., Rochester, N. Y.
Harradane, Wilbur, Hilton, N. Y.
Harrlein, Harry G., 9106-102d St., New City, Rockland, Co., N. Y.. Chins, and Goudas. Hartz, Clifford F., E. Windsor, N. Y., Siberians, Giants, Chinchillas.
Hatmaker, Albert H., 1053 Main St., Rochester N. Y., English Cavies, Black, Red Tortoise, White Etc.
Hendrickson, J. M., 24 Windsor Ave., Rockville Center, N. Y., Silvers.
Hepp. Leroy. 151 Emma St., Syracuse. N. Y.
Hildreth, C. H., 55 Sixth Ave., Gloversville, N. Y., White and Blue Flemish and American Checkered Giants.
Hitchco*ck, E. B., Box 45, Levanna, N. Y., White N. Z., White Flem. and Cavies. Holm, Harold, R. R. 4, Charlotte Sta., Rochester, N. Y., Chins, and New Zealands. Holzwarth, H. J., 2097 Culver Rd., Rochester, N. Y.
Howe, C. P., 40 Thurston Dr., Rochester, N. Y., Chinchillas and Cavies.
Hunt, G. D., Port Chester, N. Y.
Jayne, Geo. H., Lawn Ave., Elmsford, N. Y., Rufus Red Belgian and Am. Blues. Johnson, Alonzo, Akron, N. Y.
Karle, L. A., 157, Benton St., Rochester, N. Y., Flemish Giants.
Kenyon, V. S., North St., Marcellus, N. Y., Chins., New Zealands, and Eng. Cavies. Knapp, Charles, East Seatauket, Long Island, N. Y., Rabbits.
Knapp, F. W., 149 Genesee St., 307 Arcade Bldg., Utica, N. Y.
Kniffin, J. F., Box 1022, Waterloo, N. Y., Giant Rabbits all colors.
Kruetzfeldt, Wm., Glenmont, N. Y.
Lesser, Burton D., 10 Akin St., Johnstown, N. Y.
Lowthian. Robert, 8557 143rd St., Jamaica, N. Y., Chinchillas.
Luce, Roy, 107 Abell Ave., Solvy, N. Y., Am. Checkered Giants, Chinchillas. MacDougall, E. G., Box 330, Washingtonville, N. Y., New Zealand Reds.
Mairs, Mrs. O. B., Briarcliff Manor, N. Y.
Malay, Wm., R. R. 7, Batavia, N. Y.
Mayer, David, 578 Eighth Ave., New York, N. Y., Guinea Pigs and Rabbits.
McCrevel, Lansing J., 48 North Blvd., Gloversville, N. Y., French Havanas and Dutch. Murphy, Richardson, 107 Park Ave., Saranac Lake, N. Y., Belgians, N. Z., Chins, etc. Nebrich, Henry J., Box 682, Buffalo, N. Y., Champaigns and Flem. Giants and Cavies. Nesbitt, G. S., Paulina Farms, Staatsburg, N. Y.
Nolan. Chris. J., 127 Milton St., Rochester, N. Y.
Ott, George, Holland Ave., Batavia, N. Y., Flemish and Checkered Giants.
Patterson, E. H., Marietta, N. Y., New Zealand Reds and Cavies.
Perry, L. H., Perry Poultry, Clay, N. Y.
Peterson, Ernest, Box 3, Sayville.N. Y.
Plunkett, Charles J., 495 E. 13th St., Brooklyn, N. Y., Dutch.
Powers, Joan, Babylon, N. Y., All varieties.
Powers, Mary, Babylon, N. Y., All varieties.
Remhardt, Otto, 254 Saherick St., Brooklyn, N. Y., Flemish and Checkered Giants. Reynolds, Platt A., Pine Plaines,Dutchess Co., N .Y.
Rose, Jos., 504 W. Ostrander Ave., Syracuse, N. Y., Cavies.
Rush, Martin L.. Box 261, Hawthorne, N. Y., New Zealand Reds.
Sanborn, Alfred, Phelps St., Gloversville, N. Y.
Searles Rabbitry, Stafford Ave., Syracuse, N. Y., New Zealands.
Schiffert, C. J., 71 Saxton St., Lockport, N. Y., Chocolate, Black, Cream and Him. Eng
Schmidt, John F., 138 E. Main St., Hornell, N. Y., Am. Blues and Eng. Spots.
Schmidt, Sylvester, West Falls, N. Y.
Schoenheit, H. C., 55 Dix St., Rochester, N. Y., Ail varieties.
Seggett, Arthur G.. Corinth, N. Y.
Senfeit. Julius, North Boston, N. Y., New Zealand Reds.
Smith, E. Clayton, Babylon, N. Y., New Zealands.
Smith, Paul, North Chili. N. Y.
Smith, Wm. T., Box 866, Babylon. N. Y., All varieties.
Snyder, Sadie, R. R. 1, Stone Ridge, N. Y., Chinchillas, Flemish and Angoras.
Staines, E. T., North Chili, N. Y.
Steinworth, T. H., Ardsley-on-Hudson,N . Y., Belgian Hares, Chinchillas.
Sugrue. John J., 500 West 171 St., N. Y„ N. Y.
Sullivan Wm.. 26 Genesee St., N. Y., New Zealands, Chinchillas.
Taylor, Timothy R. E., 245 Birmred Heights, Elmira. N. Y.
Van Dyke, H. H., Box 4, Lake Clear Junction, N. Y., Rabbits and Cavies.
Van Gieson, Elmer, Hilton, N. Y.
Van Slyke, F. L., Clinton Rd., New Hartford, N. Y., Flemish Giants.
Vergason, W. E., Trogo Co., Box 83, Spencer, N. Y.
Waldron, R. D., 1912 1-2 Genesee St., Syracuse.N . Y.
Weber, W., 15 Waverly Park, Patchogue, Long Island, N. Y., New Zealands.
Weaver, Mrs. V. J., 528 N. Market St., Johnstown, N. Y.
Whitlock, Jesse B., 1525 Clinton Ave„ North, Rochester, N. Y.
Williams, David, 210 Globe St., Johnstown, N. Y,, Flemish Giants.
Wilson. Hulbert, Cooksburg, N. Y., Belgian Hares.
Carter.A . P., Oteen, N. C., Chinchillas.
Carpenter, J. W., 308 Forest Drive, Raleigh, N.C.
Frankosky, Mack, 138 Boulevard St., High Point, N. C., New Zealand Reds
Powur, B. F., Wake Forest, N. C., Rabbits.
Sloane, Chas. A., Oteen, N. C.
Smith, W. F., R.R . 2, Cameron, N. C., Flemish.
Chapman, Dr. C. R., Hazen, N. D.
Flaugher, E. W., Heaton, N. D.
Foell, Fred J., Temvik, N. D.
f*cka, Rev. S. J., Goodrich, N. D., New Zealand Reds.
Schulz, Rev. A. P., Cathay. N.D ., Chinchilla.
Strokel, Wm. F., Box 398. Goodrich, N. D., Chinchillas.
Adney & Cole, Suffield, O., Chinchillas, Foxes.
Ahlering. Walter, R. R. 3, Greenville, O.
Almendinger, Rock Ridge, O.
Banchet, Albert B., 88 Massilon Rd.. R. R. 1, Akron, O.. Champagne, DeArgents. Albertson, Wm., 2563 Blain Ave., Toledo, O., Flemish.
Amstutz, John 465 Cherry St., Bluffton, O.
Anderson, H. E., 2024 W. Main St., Massillon, O., Nat. Grays.
Armstrong. Geo., Ellis & Delancey, West Liberty. O., Havanas.
Ashgrove Caviary, 124 N. Perry St., Lima. O., Eng. Cavies, Mr. Z. J. Belles, Prop Ashton, V. N., 744 So. Metcalf St., Lima, O., Flemish.
Barhite, Dell, 1017 Avondale, Ave., Toledo, O., Flemish.
Bausman, Robt. E., Savona, O., Flemish Steels and Nat'l Grays.
Beach, Thos., 3401 E. 132nd St., Cleveland, O., Flemish.
Bechtel, F., 804 S. Erie St.. Toledo, O., Chinchillas.
Berry, Robt. J., 320 S. Kenilworth Ave., Lima, O., Eng. Cavies and Flem. Giants. Belles, Z. J., 124 N. Perry St., Lima, O., Cavies.
Bender, Doc., 225 S. Eureka, Columbus, O., Checker Giants.
Beutz & Son, 212 Myrtle St.. Akron, O.. Havanas, Tans.
Boerner, H. A., 1437 Lexington. Ave., Massillon, O., Chinchillas and Flemish. Bookinbyr, Martin, 310 E. 5th St., Perrysburg, O., New Zealand.
Botzman, John R., 616 Blance St., Akron, O., Blue and Black Dutch.
Bouersox, Rev J. F. D., Adamsville, O., Flemish Giants, New Zealand Reds.
Bracy, Jesse, 269 Iowa Ave., Bluffton, O., New Zealand Reds and Cavies.
Brattain, W. L., R. R. 2, Dayton, O.
Brinkley, D. F., 17-8th St., Kenmore, O., Chincillas, N. Z., Am. B. Champ., Havanas, Silver Grays,R.R.
Brown, C. H., 1362 Getz St., Akron, O., New Zealand Reds, Havanas.
Brown, Geo. R., R. R. 3, Millersburg, O.
Brunner, Paul L., 313 Main St., Hamilton, O., New Zealands.
Buchanan, Claude, R. R. No. 1, Wiltshire. O., Flemish Giants and New Zealands. Buckmaster, John, 528 Albert St., Lima, O.
Burrell Bros., Sparta, O.
Cady, W. H., 2522 Cleveland Ave., Columbus, O., Flemish.
Carberry, J. R., Lock Box 223, London, O., Flemish and New Zealand.
Carpenter, L. E., Sta. C., Toledo, O.. Am. Blues.
Cline, Glen L., Marysville, O., Flemish Giants, Gray. Black and White.
Close’s Rabbit Farm, H. Close, Tiffin, O., Flemish Giants.
Copas, J. S., The Old Reliable Rabbitry, R. R., Elyria. O., Lops, Hims., and Cavies. Crane, John, 533 Albert St., Lima, O.
Cranz, Hubert W., 692 Elma St., Akron, O., Cavies and Mice.
Davis, Earl, Convoy, O.
Diener, A. D., R. D. 7, Bellefontaine, O.
Dinard, I. J., 24 Lizzie St., Girard, O., Cavies, White Mice and Poultry.
Dingman, H. V., 1195 Cleveland Heights Blvd., Cleveland, O.
Douglas, Kay, Ashley, O., Flemish Giants.
Draper, H. F., Box 202 Oviatte St., Hudson, O., Flem. Giants, Checkers, Blue, Dutch Cavies.
Duncan, J. H., Clogue Rd., R.R . No. 2, North Olmstead, O., Nat. Gray and Flemish Giants.
Eisenecker, Otto, R. R. No. 2, Columbus, O., Flemish.
Ellis, Clark, 104 Garfield Ave., Columbus, O., New Zealands.
Eltzrth, Ernest, 112 W. Mulberry, Lebanon, O'., New Zealand Reds.
Enslin, E. A., 405 S. Jamerson Ave., Lima. O., Dutch.
Faysey, F. K., 145 Commercial St., Wauseon, O., Nat. Gray Flemish Giants.
Fitch, Eugene, 317 East 5th St., Perrysburg, O., New Zealands.
Foltz, H. C., 516 Sipp St., Massillon, O., Rabbits and Cavies, various breeds.
Foor, Erwin, 603 N. Perry St., Napoleon, O., Flemish Giants.
Foor, Leonard, R. R. 1, Curtice, O., Blues, Flemish, N. Z. Reds,and Checkered Giants. Ford, Leo A., Fayette, O., New Zealand Reds and White Giants.
Foster, Frank, Box 16, Randolph, O., Black and Blue Dutch.
Foster, John R. A., Box 16, Randolph. O., Black and Blue Dutch and Silver Gray.
Fraks, P. A., R. R. No. 5, Dayton, O., Cavies
Frantz, S. H., Beach 310, Rossford, O., New Zealand Reds and Flemish.
Garland, W. B., R. R. 1, No. Canton, O., Checkered Giants.
Gastinger, S. C., R. F. D. 3, Ashtabula, O., Flemish and Cavies.
Gates, David A., 518 Summer St., Akron, O., Blue and Black Dutch, New Zealand Reds and Flemish.
Gilbert, W. F., R. R. 1, Maumee, O., New Zealand Reds, Flemish Giants, R. R., R. Cavies. Glick, G. A., Gahanna, O.
Goodman, C. W., 1164 Atchison St., Columbus, O., Checker Giants.
Grebus, Peter, 875 Wager St., Columbus, O., Blue Flemish.
Green, C. L., 130 Acme St., Marietta, O.
Green Chas., 145 E. Front St., New Philadelphia, O.
Green, Roy A., R. 6, Warren, O., Gray Flemish.
Greuter, Elmer B., R. D. No. 4, Defiance, O., Flem. Giants, New Zealand Reds. Griffith, F. A., 1228 W. North St., Lima. O., Flemish and Dutch.
Handgren. W. B., Little York Rabbitry, Macedonia, O., Flemish Giants and Blue. Harnis, Jack, 527 Perkins St., Akron, O., Chinchilla.
Harding, C. C., 2435 Blain Ave., Toledo, O., Chinchilla and Black and Blue Dutch. Harmon, Delmer, Box 24, Napoleon, O., Gray and Steel Flemish.
Harmon, Thomas, Wayneburgh Rd., Canton O., Champagne.
Harper, Z. Q.. 2609 Detroit Ave., Toledo,O .. New Zealand Red and Flemish Giants Hazelton, J. C., Elyria, O., 247 Ohio St., New Zealand, Flemish Giants.
Hebenstreit, R. W„ 628 S. .Garden Ave.. Warren, O.
Heber, Benjamin O., 1886 N. Fourth St., Columbus, O., Flemish Giants, Steel, Black, and Natural.
Heinemann, F. H., 2219 7th S. W. Canton, O.
Herron, Homer L., R. R. 2, Carrollton, O., Flemish Giants.
Higgins, A. B„ 1097 Dodd St. Napoleon, O.
Hinkey, W. C„ Bov 274, Greenville, O., Pet Stock.
Hoelech. Adolph, R. R. 3, Bremen, O., Allfur breeds(ForestRoseFurFarm)
Hogue, D. B., 3335 N. High St., Columbus O., Checker Giants.
Hommel, Wm. H , Sandusky, O., Chinchillas.
Hookway, Geo., 4159 E. 108th St., Cleveland, O., Silver Gray, N. Z. Reds, Am. Blues. Hoodacre, Chas. H., P. O. Box No. 323, Greenwich, O.
Houser, Robert Dr., 1226 Manor Park, Lakewood. O.
Hukel, Elmer, 247 Steel St., Toledo, O., American Blue.
Hush, Jack, 700 3rd St., N. E., Canton. O., Flemish.
Hutchinson, Fred, 1148 Cedar Ave., Cincinnati,O., Flemishand Chinchillas.
Ingle, H. L., 346 College St., Covington, O.,Rabbits.
Johnson. Gerald W., 778 Upson St., Akron, O.,Black. Blue,NaturalandSandyFlem.
Jones, R. A., 1330 W. 11th St., Lorain, O., Flemish and Cavies.
Julian, Wm., 2115 Maple Ave., Norwood, O.. Dutch.
K. & K. Rabbitry, The, 458 Waynesburgh Rd., Canton. O., Flemish.
Kabealo, Berlin, Center, o.. Checkers.
Kaufman, C. A., 1319 3rd N. E., Canton, O., Gray Flemish.
Keef, E. O., 908 W. North St.. Lima, O.
Kelso, J. R., 404 N. Mantau St., Kent. O., New Zealand Reds.
Ketes, R. H., Adamsville, O., Flemish Giants, White and Nat l New Zealand Reds. Kimball, Harry, 1112 Peters Ave., Columbus, O., Flemish and Fancy.
King, Chas. F., 638 Cherry St., Galion, O., New Zealand and Flemish.
Kirwin, James, 662 N. Elizabeth St., Lima, O.
Koppelberger, L. E., R. R.7, Medina,O.
Lenert, John J., 316 Main Ave., Elmood Place, Cincinnati. O., New Zealand.
Loose, G. H., 35 Bond St., Ashtabula, O., Flemish and Havanas.
Marshall, Jas. W., R. R. 4, Coshocton. O., Belgians.
Martin, John R., 810 Clinton Court, Box 458, Findlay, O.
McCombs, W. E. Jr., Scenic Hill Poultry and Rabbit Farm, Canton, O.
McClure, P. E., Lock Box 136, Willshire.O .
McCreary, R. P., Leesville, O., Belgians, Flemish, and New Zealands.
McCulley, Jess, North Lewisburg. O., Havanas, Chins., Flemish White and Blue.
McNeal, Rev. Ross, R.R . No. 5, Dayton, O., Chinchillas.
Meister, John, 1444 Oakwood Ave., Toledo, O., New Zealands.
Metcalf, A. B., Maumee, O., New Zealands and Blue Dutch.
Metcalf, F. R., R. R. 3, Perrysburgh, O., New Zealand, Blue, Dutch, and Havanas. Miles, P. B., Maumee, O., Flemish, New Zealand Reds.
Miller, Chas. F., Bluffton, O.
Miller, E., 40 S. Main St., Germantown, O., F., Rufus Red Belgians.
Miller, Harry, Route 2, New Weston, O., Flemish and New Zealand Reds.
Miller, H. H., Box 47, Ansonia, O.
Miller, Ira M., 217 Summit Ave., Galion, O., Flemish Giants.
Miller, John, R. R. 3, Greenville, O., Flemish and New Zealands.
Muckle, R. D., 49 Palmetto Ave., Bedford. O., Flemish Giants.
Norwalk Animal Industry, R. R. 1, Box 22, Norwalk, O.
Nunn, Dr. C. R., Alexandria, O.
Orphey, Chas. J., 33 Spring St., Norwalk, O., Steel Gray Flem., Cavies, G. & S. Agouti. Ousler, Clyde, Cambridge and Sutton, Cincinnati, O., New Zealand, Chinchillas. Ostrander, Thomas, 350 North Front, Cuyahoga Falls, O., Belgian Hares.
Parry, William, 1041 Pine St., Cincinnati, O., Flemish.
Padgett, Wm. B., Mt. Washington, Cincinnati, O., Dutch, Havanas, Am. Blues, Champ. De Argent.
Payne, Trollie, 122 Sheffield Ave., Napoleon, O., Natural Gray Flemish.
Peterson, B., 627 Talmadge Ave., Cuyahoga Falls, O., R. R., Belgian and Dutch.
Pfaff, Carl, Delta, O., New Zealand Reds.
Phillips, C. B., R. R. No. 7, Lima, O., Flemish.
Pifer, Wm., R. No. 1, Ashville, O. New Zealands.
Plottner, W. N. Sons, West Mansfield, O., All varieties.
Portmann, Henry H., 4237 Franklin St., Norwood, O., Flemish and Chinchillas.
Prey, John, Ottawa, O., Flemish Giants.
Price, Chas.R ., Kenton, O., Kenton Fur Farm (P. E. I., Strain Silver Black Fox, Mink, Fisher, Raccoon, Muskrat, Skunk, Rabbit and other fur bearing animals. Pringle, Jacob, Perrysburg, O.
Rhinehart, R. E., 262 E. George St., Marion, O.
Richards, W. E., 8 N. McKinley Ave., N. W., Canton, O., English Spots.
Ricketts, King, 6211 Bona Vista Pl., Cincinnati, O., New Zealands.
Rosenberg, Jos. T., 1780 Taft Rd., Cincinnati, O., Flemish Giants.
Rohrer, Dayton B., R. D. No. 1, Seville, O ..Chinchillas.
Ruckman, C. D., R.R . No. 6, Box 5, Toledo, O.
Saudey, F. G., Box 38, Baltimore, O., Natural Gray Flemish Giants.
Sautlers, Karl, 1020 Roslyn Ave., Canton, O., Dutch, Blue, Black, and Tortoise Chins., American Blues and Blue Beverens.
Schlaback, Eli C., Berlin Sta. Millersburg, O., Chinchillas.
Schryver, M. W., 85 North Ohio Ave., Columbus, O., New Zealands and Cavies.
Schultz, Adam, 197 E. Center St., Akron, O., B W. Checker Giants, Flemish Giants, New Zealand, English Lop., B & W., Dutch.
Schultz, W. F., 30 S. Newberry St., Cuyahoga Falls, O., New Zealand Reds.
Sessions, D. L., Twin Lakes Silver Fox Farms Co., Kent, O.
Channaberger, Edw. J., Route 2, Ravenna, O.
Shiken, Ralph, 209 W. Cherry St., Massillon, O., American Blues and Flemish.
Shrider, V. B., 454 E. Cherry St., Bluffton, O.
Silvius, Chas. F., 620 S. Walnut St., Bryan, O., New Zealands
Slater, E. J., 1973 East 105th St., Cleveland, O., New Zealand Reds and English.
Smith, C. L., 576 N. Union St., Galion, O., Flemish Giants.
Smith, C. R., 294 Talbot Ave., Akron, O.
Smith, F.E ., 738 S. Main St., Kenton, O., New Zealand.
Snyder, Earl B., 1241 Summit Ave., Barberton, O.
Soale, Delbert S., Box 106 R. R. 4, Peebles, O., New Zealand Reds and Flemish Giants. Stadtler, H. G , 2087 W. 14th St., Cleveland, O.. Flemish Giants.
Stentz. Mrs. Edw., 29 Forest St., Norwalk, O.
Strassman, Otto A., 231 Oak Park Blvd., Cuyahoga Falls, O., Flemish.
Strassner, Eugene, 496 E. Market, Akron, O., Cavies Stratton, E. A., 921 W. Main St., Kent, O., Flemish.
Swank, Ira, R. R. 1, Greenville, O., Chinchillas, English Cavies.
Swart, Paul, R. R. 1, Wauseon, O., Flemish.
Throne, John H., Pioneer, O., Flemish.
Throne, John & Bro., Pioneer, O., Flemish Giant.
Tietje, Adolph, Malinta, O.. Heavy light Gray and Natural Gray Flemish.
Tripp, Wilbur, R. D. 2, Bowerstown, O.. New Zealand Reds.
Uncle Bros., R. D. No. 3, Box No. 7B, Sandusky, O., Cavies.
Ungarhick, F. J., 1421 Homer Ave., N. W., Canton, O., Belgian.
Vaughters, T. H., Rushtown, O., Flemish Giants, New Zealand, Chinchillas.
Vail, Jacob, 1111 Second St., S. W., Canton, O., Dutch Etc.
Viall, Clyde, 8 E. Main St., New London, O., Chinchillas. New Zealand.
Wagner, D. W., 402 Euclid Ave., Toledo, O., Flemish and New Zealands.
Wamser, Geo., 240 Kolbe, Ave., Napoleon, O.
Warrener, R. H., 1339 Orr St., Toledo, O.. Flemish and Checker Giants.
Watershed Rabbitry, 932-40 Amelia St., Akron, O., New Zealand. Chinchillas, Steel and Gray. Dutch Silver Agoutas.
Weirick, Chas., 711 Hazlett Ave., Canton, O., Checkered Giants.
Wertz, Irvin, R. F. D. 2, Osborn, O.
Weygandt, C. A., 999 Lexington Ave., Akron, O., Rabbits.
Whipple, Dr. R. A., Box 188, Ashley, O.. Flemish Silver Gray and Chinchillas.
Will, J. C., 1671 Oakwood Ave., Toledo. O., Nat. Gray Flemish, and American Blues. Willey, L. E., R. R. 3, Copley, O., Havanas and English Cavies.
Wilson, G. W., Signal. O.
Wojcik, Jos. A., R. R. 1, Elyria, O., Flemish Giants.
Wolcott, Al., 347 High St., Kent, O., Gray Flemish.
Worbois, Holmer L., R. R. 11, Dayton, O.
Wright, S. B., 21 Walnut St., Cincinnati, O.
Wyeth, Dr. C. L., 707-708 Trust Bldg.. Newark, O., American Blues and Flemish Giants Wyss, Carl E., 465 S. 3rd St., New Philadelphia, O., Flemish Giants.
Zajdowicz, Ed., R. No. 2, Jacobsburg, O.
Batchelder, W. W., 220 W. Grand, Oklahoma City, Okla., Am. Blues, New Zealands. Denton, R. L., Blanco, Okla., Cavies.
Collins, J. W., 1232-E. 25th St., Tulsa, Okla., New Zealands.
Garfield, W. H., Box 1809, Tulsa, Okla., New Zealand Reds.
Hartman, D. A., Stecker, Okla., Flemish Giant Hares.
Hawkins, J. T., 1325 E. 12th St., Okla. City, Okla., New Zealands.
Irick, F.O ., Lindsy, Okla.
Jones, John C., Box 248, Cushing, Okla., Chinchillas.
Mayton, Allen, Wilson, Okla.
McDowell, Ora J., Box 283, Enid, Okla., New Zealand Reds, Chinchilla.
Michel, Mrs. Ava., 1811 E. 24th, Okla. City, Okla., R. R. 1, New Zealand Reds, Am. Blues. Munneke, Mrs. E., 504 9th St., Clinton, Okla., American Blues and New Zealand Reds. Murphy, Newton E., Box 487 Care Sinclair Oil Co., Shidler, Okla., Flemish Giants. Neal, J. P.. 610 S. Demey, Okla. City, Okla., Flemish Giants.
Poyer, R. V., 615 N. Broadway, Walters. Okla., Flemish Giants.
Reaves, J. B., 122 S. Dixon, Shawnee, Okla.
Riddle, C. P., Box 644, Wilson, Okla., New Zealand.
Slagel, Chas., 811 Pine St,, Enid, Okla., New Zealands.
Stokes, Chas., North Noble St., Box 356, Watonga, Okla., Checkered Gi. and N. Z. Reds Terrell, Mrs. R. H., Box 711, Yales. Okla., New Zealand Reds.
Turney, E., Wilson, Okla., S. 2nd 1005, Box 661, New Zealands.
Ward, W. G., Box 293, Wagoner, Okla., New Zealands.
Way, T. C., 2011 W. 41st St., Okla. City, Okla., Am. Blues and New Zealands. Yarberry, R. C., 317 N. K. St., Guymon, Okla., Flemish Giants.
Ackley, Eugene M., R. B. Box No. 129, Bend, Ore., Chinchillas.
Baird, J. A., Vale, Ore., Chinchillas.
Bradford, C. S., R. R. 1, Box 102, Linnton, Ore.
Barnes, Bert, 713 N. 5th, Grants Pass, Ore., Chinchillas.
Barnett, Ira F., 1745 Olive, Eugene, Ore., Chinchillas.
Wooley, Lewis L„ 39-L & Ash St., Cottage Grove, Ore., Flemish Gi., New Zealand Reds. Bauman, Fred T., Box 541, Westport, Ore.
Beck, Gus, Talent, Ore., Chinchillas.
Burt, A. J., Enterprise, Ore., Chinchilla.
Bottemiller, E. H.. 34 E. 57th St., Portland, Ore., Chinchillas.
Carruther, H. J., Box 361. R. R. 7, Portland, Ore., Silver Giants.
Zeek, T F., R. R. No. L, Dundee, Ore., Chinchillas.
Cascade Fox Farm, R. R. 4, Hood River, Ore., Silver Fox and Chinchilla Rabbit3.
Collier, Arnold D., Eugene, Ore.
Chapman, H. S., Enterprise, Ore.
Cummings, Lester, R. F. D. No. 1. Klamath Falls, Ore. Chinchilla. Gray Flemish.
Davis. L. M. Mrs., 860 Commercial, Portland, Ore., Chinchilla Rabbits.
Ehrnborg, E., R. F. D. 1, Antlers Grants Pass, Ore., Rufus Red Belgian.
Gatch, Theodoras B., Motor Route C., Eugene. Ore., New Zealands.
Gates, R. D., 218 S. 4th St., Corwallis, Ore., Chinchillas.
Gibson, R. D., R. F. D., 127, Salem, Ore.
Gladwyor, Cecil E., Huber, Ore., Chinchillas and 50 other breeds.
Grabel, A. F., Box 272, Toledo, Ore.
Groebel, F. G., 1409 Park St., Enterprise, Ore.
Hakanson, A. E., Rocky Point, Ore., Chinchillas and New Zealands.
Hanson, H., Enal Heights, Box 153, Milwaukee, Ore., Chinchilla Rabbits.
Halsey, Eva, 697 E. 69th St., Portland, Ore., Chinchillas.
Herren, Mrs. L. G., Heppner, Ore.
Hansberry, H. E., Rocky Point, Ore., Chinchilla and New Zealand Red.
Howe, B., Grants Pass, Ore.
Harrison, Myron, Ashwood, Ore.
Harper, H. J. 1272 Simpson St., Portland, Ore., Chinchillas.
Haskins, Mrs. W. R., Star Route, Merrill, Ore., Flemish. Black and Steel.
Lawson, Chas. G., R. R. 1, Box 67, Oswego, Ore., Chinchillas.
Haverstick, Russell N., R. R. No. 3, Box No. 144. Oregon City. Ore., Chinchillas.
Hughes, E. P.. Talent. Ore. Blue Flemish, Chinchillas and New Zealands.
Imperial Fox & Fur Farm, Molalla, Ore., Chinchillas.
Jaeger, Mrs. Fred, 1743 Lawrence, Eugene, Ore., Belgians and Chinchillas.
Kaser, E. N., East A St., Grants Pass, Ore., Chinchillas.
Larkin, Mrs. Elsie, 171 E. 34th St.. Portland, Ore., Chinchillas.
Larson, H. A., 201 W. Farracut St.. Portland, Ore., Chinchillas.
Laurent, Geo., R. R. 3, Box No. 477, Laurent, Ore.
Livermore & Rekestraw, Pendleton, Ore.
Marks, Dr. C. B.. Grand Pass, Ore., Chinchillas.
McArtor, C. J. Mrs., Lostine, Ore., Chinchilla Rabbits.
McCoul, Alfred, Box 391, Lakeview, Ore., Chinchillas.
McDermott, Eugene, J. Bend, Ore., Chinchillas and Flemish.
McRobert, Arthur, Ukiah, Ore., Chinchillas.
Metzger, J, E., Multnomah Co., Gresham, Ore., Flemish Giants and New Zealand. Morrison, L. S., Box 624, Grant Pass, Ore.
Murdock, R. B., R. F. D. No. 4, Junction City, Ore., New Zealand Reds.
Nelson. Miss Wanda C., McMinnville, Ore., Chinchillas.
Newbry, E. L., R. R. No. 1, Box No. 77, Talent, Ore., Chinchillas.
Orr, T. B„ R. R. No. 3, Medford, Ore., New Zealands.
Pardon, H. J., Box No. 111, Cherry Grove, Ore.
Pollack, L., 5220 63rd St., Portland, Ore., Flemish Giants. Quivey, W. V., R. R. No. 7, Box No. 86, Portland, Ore., Chinchillas, Renner, A. R., Box 595, Klamath Falls, Ore.
Reynolds, Hugh W., 764 Lawrence St., Eugene, Ore., Chinchilla.
Riedel, P. F., Upriver Route, Bend, Ore., Chinchillas.
Rowland, Otto A., 32 West 13th St., Eugene. Ore., Chinchillas.
Rowley, Geo. W., Box No. 1, Talent, Ore., American Blues.
Rowland, V. H., 136 11th Ave., East, Eugene. Ore., Chinchillas.
Russell, F. W., 328 E. Fessenden, Portland, Ore.
Stacey. C. W., R. R. 1, Vale, Ore., Chinchillas.
Schmidt, Hans, 3624 42nd St., S. E. Portland, Ore., Chinchillas and White N.Z.
Selder, F. H., Motor Route C., Eugene, Ore., New Zealand Reds.
Shrode, D. L., 705 Sp. 12, Salem, Ore., Chinchilla Rabbits.
Smithers, Burr, Union, Ore.
Stanley, Oscar D., R. R. 3, Box C 15, Milwaukee, Ore.
Swan, W. S., Oak Grove, Ore., Chinchillas.
Swayzee, Levi, Enterprise, Ore., Chinchillas, French Silvers.
Tangermann, Otto C., Slayton, Ore., New Zealand Reds.
Tomkins, W. C., 1185 Bybee Ave., Portland, Ore., Chinchillas
Tualatin Fur & Pet Farms, Box No. 114, R. R. No. 5, Oregon City, Ore., Chinchillas. Walker, W. W., 302 Crater Lake Ave., Medford, Ore.
Wallace, C. F„ 106 Greenwood Ave., La Grande, Ore.
Watson, A. B., Gearhart, Ore., Chinchillas.
Walters, Alex, Motor Rd. A-Box No. 87, Bend, Ore., Chinchillas.
White, N. I., 1003 W. Jersey, Portland, Ore., Chinchillas and Am. Blues.
West, J. S., Box 6, Hermiston, Ore.
Zuren, Stanley T., 792 Melrose Drive, Portland, Ore.
Abbey, Lloyd E., Harrison Valley Pa., Belgian.
Allen, E. R., Cheswick, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Acorn Cavy Farm, Box 281, Lemoyne, Pa.. Cavies of all virieties. Chinchilla Rabbits, J. M. Sheehan.
Adams, S. G., 3818 Bates St., Pittsburg, Pa., Flemish.
Ambler, W. W., Plymouth, Meeting, Pa., Blue and Flemish Giants.
Ardle, Nathan J., R. R. 2, Allentown, Pa.
Balay, Phil F., 6355 Jefferson St., Germantown, Phila., Pa., Flemish Giants.
Barkman, Victor E. P., 609 S. Julian St., Bedford. Pa., Flemish Giants.
Basehore, Oscar, 119 S. East, Carlisle, Pa.. New Zealand Red (Exhibition) Rabbits. Bean, D. A., 2121 N. Queen St.. Shippensburgh, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Benavage, Adam, 113 Hudson St., (Plains) Parsons, Pa.. New Zealand Red.
Blyth, Jas., 4401 Saline St., Pittsburg. Pa.. Eng. Spotted and Flemish Giants.
Bower, S. H., 515 S. Cherry, Myerstown. Pa., Flemish.
Brenneroas, H. Clair, Main St.. Dover, Pa., American Blues.
Brown, Nevin, 306 S. High St., Selinsgrove, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Buffard, Elie J., Box 253, Knoxville, Pa., Blue Flemish, Havanas and Hims.
Burnhan, P. L., R. F. D. 4, Hirshey Rd., Erie, Pa.
Carl, Hugo, 30 Soffel St., Pittsburgh, Pa., Flemish Giants and Chinchillas.
Chapman, John, Tremont, Pa.. Flemish.
Charlton, J. B., 70 East Chestnut St., Washington, Pa., New Zealand Reds and Am. Blues. Clark, Mrs. Fred L., Burtville, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Clayton. John, Boothwyn, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Consley, H. L., 140 So., Denaver St., York, Pa., New Zealand.
Conway, Joseph L., 441 N. Second St., Allentown, Pa.
Cook, Louis, R. D. No. 5, Corry, Pa.
Copeland, Joel, A., 65 Butler St., Etna, Pa., Flemish Giants and Belgian Hares.
Curl, Lewis A., 5760 Hunter Ave., Philadelphia, Pa.
Daley, Mrs. Betty F., 223 Congress Ave., Lansdowne, Pa., Rabbits.
DeLancey, Ellis L., York, Pa.
Druck. William M., Route 1, Mt. Wolf, Pa., American Blues. Gi. and White Gi., Eng.
Cavies, All colors and Poultry, etc.
Durfos, John, Box 318, Expedit, Pa., Chinchilla.
Dynes, Fred H., 321 Janeway St., Kane, Pa., Cavies.
Eaby, Wm. D., R. D. 2, Gap, Pa., New Zealand Reds.
Faith. Harry I., Box 67, Manorville, Pa., Flemish Giant.
Fishers Rabbit Farm, Rices Landing. Pa., Flemish Giant and Chinchillas.
Flexer, John R., R. R. 2, Barto, Pa., Flemish.
Franklin, James Chas., Whiteley, Pa.
Fritz, Harrison E.. Penn. Ave., Krutztown, Pa., Flemish Giant.
Frost, W. E., R. R. 1, Harbor Creek, Pa., New Zealand Reds and Himalayas.
Gaines, C. M., 301 N. Highland Ave., (Rear) E. Pittsburgh, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Gerver, Samuel, New Freedom, Pa., American Blues and Chinchillas.
Godfrey, E. J., Elfenwild Rd., R. D. 1, Glenshaw, Pa.
Godfrey, E. J., 3790 Biglow Blvd., Pittsburgh. Pa.. Flemish Giants.
Gollub, Eberhard T., Route 2, Birdsboro, Pa.. Belgian and New Zealands.
Hardcastle, W. B., Box 77, Centre Valley, Pa., Eng. Cavies.
Hart, Lawrence, 43 King St., Pottstown, Pa.
Hartline, E. P., Neffs, Pa. Flemish Giants.
Hixon, A. G.. R. R. 1, Scottdale, Pa., Black and Steel and Gray Flemish.
Hoover, Allen D., R. R. 1. Mt. Wolf. Pa., Belgian Hare.
Hoover, S. L., Box 32, Franklin Co., Marion, Pa.. Flemish Giant.
House, Jos., 3344 Filbert St., Philadelphia, Pa.
Howsare, Ira C., 414 5th Ave., Altoona. Pa., Flemish Giants.
Reinsmith, R. A. & Jobst C. L., 724 S. 5th St., Allentown, Pa., (Utility Heavy Type Belgian. Ang.
Johnson, James S., 158 Washington Ave., Bethlehem City, Pa., New Zealand Reds. Kamble, Rev. W. L., 314 Spring Ave., Hanover, Pa., Flemish and Cavies.
Keller, D. C., Barto. Pa.. Belgians and Flemish.
Kriner, John C., Sellersville, Pa., Checkered Giants, Havanas and Hims.
Lehigh, Melvin. R. R. 1, East Berlin, Pa., Belgian Hares.
Lindemuth, W. J., Hamburg, Pa., Checkered Giants.
Mason, G. C., Colegrove, Pa., Rufus Red Belgians.
McFox, F., Cherry St., East Greenville, Pa.
Mille, Christain G., 821 Flemington St., Pittsburgh, Pa., New Zealand.
Miller, D. S., E. Greenville, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Miller, Frank J., 797 12th St., McKees Rocks, Pa., Flemish Gi., and French Lops Blacks, Steel gray Flemish, English Lop.
Moyer, Allen I., 21 Reading Ave., Wyomissing, Pa.
Munce, R. J., 171 Allison St., Washington, Pa., Rabbits.
Plath. L. G., R. R., Manchester, Pa., Flemish Giant.
Newport, Norman F., Erie, Pa.
Price, J. Harry., 118 S. 8th St., Columbia, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Olin, R. L., 51 Jackson St.. Montrose, Pa.
Priest, Clyde R.. Tremont. Pa., Flemish Giant.
Phil, Emmanuel, 394 Bedford St., Johnstown, Pa., Guinea Pigs.
Pritchard. C. H., 837 E. Price St., Philadelphia, Pa.
Neubert, E. O., Saxonburg, Pa.
Reitz, Jos. E., 210 E. Washington Ave., Dubois, Pa., Rose Manor Caviary, Black White, Cream, Red, Silver Agouti, and Golden Agouti.
Pugh, C. D., 607 S. Main St., Dubois, Pa., Chinchillas
Rennoll, Stewart R., R. R. 2, Glen Rock, Pa., All classes of rabbits, cavies, mice and pet stock.
Riley, James R., 336 Parker St., Chester, Pa., Abyssinians, Angoras & Peruvian Cavies. Ritter, H. E., Middleburg. Pa., Chinchilla.
Schramm, Arthur E., 2905 Plum St., Erie, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Schleicher, Raymond, Bethlehem, Phila., Pa., Flemish Giants.
Schoenly, Abraham W., Red Hill. Pa., Flemish Giants.
Scott, Robt., 4255 Romaine St., Philadelphia, Pa., Dutch and English.
Smith, Albert H., R. R. No. 7, Wellsboro, Pa., Chinchillas.
Snover. Cecil L., 218 New York St.. Scranton, Pa.
Snyder, Elmer A., R. R. No. 6, Gettysburg, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Sollenberger, O. F., Ralston. Pa., Flemish Giants.
Soldner. G. T., 205 E. Broad, Souderton, Pa., Chinchillas.
Stark, H. E., Main St., Box 93, Tremont, Pa., Flemish.
Staudt, Ammon C., Bechtelville, Pa., Flemish Giants. N. Z. Reds, Chinchillas.
Steitz, Gus, 625 N. Seventh St., Allentown, Pa., Flemish.
Stump. A. W., 301 N. Jefferson St., New Castle, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Stutzman, I. H., 127 Lehigh Ave., Allentown, Pa., Eng. Cavies.
Suplee, F. P., Gwynedd, Pa., Flemish.
Trexler, Phaor H., 143 Court St., Allentown, Pa.
Trutman, H. E., 2532 N. 8th St., Phila., Pa.
Tyler, Vern E., Box 326, Kane, Pa., Chinchilla and New Zealand Reds.
Verner, F. S., 2135 Edgbrook Ave., Pittsburgh, Pa., Flemish Giants.
Wamstedt, Martins, Anita, Pa., New Zealand Red.
Weaver, Roland D., Cranberry, Pa., New Zealands.
Weikel, A. L., Coopersburgh, Pa.
Wertz, Roy, R. R. 7, Johnstown. Pa., Chinchillas.
Winkel, Fredrick W., 756 Brooklyn St., West Phila.. Pa., Him. and Silver Grays. Zimmerman, Frank, Box 186, Wilson, Pa., Checker Giants.
Barnicoat, John, 384 Montgomery Ave., Providence, R. I., Am. Blues and N. Z. Reds. Fischesser, Robert, 27 Monroe St., Woonsocket, R. I.. Checks and Flemish Giants.
Murat, Chas., 758 N. Main St., Woonsocket, R. I., Flemish Gi. and Check. Giants. Nicholson, Ernest. 1676 Main St., Crompton, West Warrick, R, I., New Zealand. Saunders, F. E., 638 Public St., Providence, R. 1., Flemish.
Vaughn, C. A., Queen & Logan Sts., Charleston, S. C.
Anderson, Emil G., McIntosh, S. D.. Flemish Giants.
Anderson, Niels, Peter, Yankton, S. D.
Bates, Mark Jr., Letcher, S. D.
Barrey, R. H., 1533 S. Minn. Ave., Sioux Falls So. Dakota.
Burch, F. L., Box 76, Sioux Falls, S. D., Giants, Havanas, Am. Blues. New Zealands D’Argents, Lilacs, Blue, Black and Tortoise, Dutch.
Clark, J. A., 12th & Holly Ave., Sioux Falls, S. D., N. Zealand. Bel., Am. Blues, Cavies. Elliott. W. H., 1630 N. Grange Ave., Sioux Falls, S. D., Black Flemish, American Blues. New Zealand, Rufus Red Belgians.
Cosgrove, David, R. R. No. 4, Platte, S. D., Himalayans, Rufus Red, Bel. White Eng. Dunn. L. L., Harrisburg, S. D.. Chinchillas and Blue Fox.
Fischer. Frederick, R. R. 2, Madison, S. D.. Flemish.
Larsen, Valdemar, Viborg. S. D., New Zealand.
Mellon. C., Burdette, Canova, S. D., Belgian Hares.
Grotjohn, Harry, R. No. 14, Flandreau, So. D., New Zealands.
O’Kane, John Jr., Box 690 11th and Hesack St., Huron. S. D., Belgians & New Zealands.
Hansen, Emil, 295 W. 4th St., Sioux Falls, S. D., American Blues.
Rodemeyer, Mrs. J. H., Box 476, Mobridge, S. D., New Zealands.
Peterson, K. C., Colton, S. D., Flemish Giants.
Sommer, Chas. P., Sommer’s Poultry Yards, Parkston, S. D.
Reid, A. J., 211 French, Sioux Falls, S. D., Chinchillas and Havanas.
Tallman, H. J.. Stiblar Rabbitry, Watertown, S. D„ American Blues and Belgian Hares. Rickmeyer, H. M., P. O. Box No. 105, Aberdeen S. D., Chinchillas.
Van Slyke, R. N., 1419 East 4th St.. Sioux Falls. S. D., Rabbits, Flemish. Checks. Am.
Skordahl, B. V. Box No. 277, Vermillion, S. D., Checkered Giants, Chinchillas. Wheeler, M., 1101 S. 2nd Ave., Sioux Falls. S. D., Checkered Giants and Belgians. Whitehead, Mayme, Care W. H. Elliott, 1630 N. Grange Ave., Sioux Falls, S. D.
Ainslie, Geo. G., R. R. Knoxville, Tenn., Guinea Pigs, White Mice, Rats.
Butcher, W. N., 910 Broadway, Knoxville, Tenn., Flemish Giants.
Arndt, Frank, Care J. S. Hayes, R. R. No. 12, Knoxville, Tenn. Rabbits.
Gibbins, A. A., 720 E. Main St., Maryville, Tenn.
Davenport. Mrs. Addie, R. R. No. 8, Box No. 184, Knoxville. Tenn., Cavies.
Haney, Geo. W., 127 Davant Ave., Memphis, Tenn.. New Zealands.
McNeil. Mar. T. S., 223 Taylor St., Box 44, Bristol, Tenn.
Mills, Rev. J. E., Martin, Tenn., Chinchillas.
Adams. Chas. J., 525 E. Munson St., Denison. Tex., New Zealands.
Akin. J. W., 1205 Burnett St., Wichita Falls, Tex., New Zealands.
Anderson. J. W.. 519 San Pedro Ave.. San Antonio. Tex.
Bachman. Jas. R., 1204 Holliday St., Wichita Falls. Tex., Flemish Giants.
Brown, Joe C., 802 Chestnut St.. Bonham, Tex., Cavies.
Carson. Ben. R. R. 6, Box 91 B.. Ft. Worth. Tex.. Checkered Gi. & N. Z. & Am. Blues. DeMontel, Elmer C., 1011 City Nat'l Bank. Wichita Falls, Tex., Rufus Red Belgians. Dewberry, T. N., 3229 Avenue I.. Fort Worth. Tex.. Belgians. New Zealands and Giants. Dewees, R. L.. Box 373 Sta. A.. Ft. Worth. Tex.. Flemish Chinchillas. New Zealand. Downs. Lee. 2206 Grant St., R. 3, Box 42. Wichita Falls. Tex., New Zealand Reds. Ellis, Hampton. 1203 McGovern St., Houston. Tex.. New Zealands.
Farmer. Ward Care Vick & Farmer Corn Co., North Ft. Worth. Tex.. Am. Blues & Hims. Geers, O. G., Wichita Falls, Tex.
Gibson. M. J.. 111 E. Exchange. Ave., Ft. Worth. Tex.
Hall, J. H., R. 5. Box 159. Wichita Falls. Tex.. American Blues and New Zealand Reds. Harris. A. L.. Box 521, Childress, Tex., New Zealand Reds.
Haskell, Dr. W. H., 892 Broadway. Beaumont. Tex., Chins.. White N. Z. (Contemplated) Hawkins. P. E.. Box 544, Kerrville. Tex., Belgian Hares.
Heitman, H. T.. Tomball, Tex., New Zealand Reds.
Hirstine. J. L.. 2314 Pearl Ave., Ft. Worth, Tex., New Zealands.
Hollis, Giles. Pineland, Tex.
Howard. R. O.. Izoro, Tex.
Kerr, C. W., Denison. Tex.. New Zealands.
Law, Rob’t., R. R. 5, Box 369, Houston. Tex.. Chinchillas.
Locke. Otto Martin, Jr., Drawer 731, New Braunfels, Tex., All fancy breeds of rabbits, Cavies etc.
Lowry. A. W.. Stop 3. Dallas Iterurban, Ft. Worth, Tex.. Am. Blues. Chins. White Giants. New Zealand Reds.
May. Jack, Care Bridgeport Machine Co.. Panhandle, Tex.
Miller, S. B., 1008 Allen St.. Ft. Worth. Tex., New Zealands. Flemish, Am. Blues. Niceswanger, M. A.. 1847 7th Ave., Port Arthur, Tex., New Zealands.
Philbrick. Arthur. Clear Lake Farm. Kemah. Tex., New Zealands, and Blues.
Sawyers. E. B.. 3027 Findlay. El Paso, Tex.
Schulte, Walter G., Box 1003, Houston. Tex.. Cavies.
Smith, Wm. L., 103 Waco St., Wichita Falls, Tex.
Taylor, H. H., Box 246, Denison, Tex., New Zealands.
Ware, John B., Box 27, Bonham, Tex., New Zealands Wilhite, R. M„ Wichita Falls, Tex., 1309 8th St., Steel Gray.
Wolff, R. A., 1616 Ave. F., Beaumont, Tex., Flemish Giants.
Youngblood, S. A.. 1509-11 St., Wichita Falls. Tex., Champaign. De Argents.
Aintoft, Wallie P., 424 W. 6th So., Salt Lake City, Utah.
Anderson. Gustaf, 5470 S. State St., Murray,Utah.
Bigler, Mark, Nephi, Utah.
Crookston, Geo., 38 North 1st East, Logan, Utah.
Crump, Orin L., Riverton, Utah, New Zealands.
Curtis. Doyle, 410 S. 1st West, Provo, Utah, Flemish Giants.
Day, J. V., 4256 Hyland Drive, Salt Lake City, Utah. New Zealand Reds.
Dean. H. F., R. F. D. 4, Box 161, Sandy, Utah, Flemish Giants.
Denhalter, H., 1968 S. Main St., Salt Lake City, Utah, Gray & Sandy Gray Flem. Gi. Durfee, Edmond F.. 1610 Redwood Rd., Salt Lake City, Utah.
Elmo, Morgan. 3600 Hy. Drive, Salt Lake City, Utah.
Froiseth, J. H.. R. R. 3, Box 224, Murray, Utah.
Garrison, Adrian, 677 So. 9th West, Salt Lake City, Utah, Flemish Giants.
Hansen, LeRoy, 317 W. 9 W, Provo, Utah.
Hudson. L. J.. 3800 Hyland Drive, Salt Lake City, Utah, Flemish.
Hart, Wm. Glenn, 467 Goshen St.. Salt Lake City, Utah.
Huff, S. E., Draper, Utah, Flemish Giants.
Johnson, Byron C., 366 West 6th St., Salt Lake City, Utah., N. Z. Reds and French Hav. Jessup, Mrs. S. G., 1859 W-l So. Salt Lake City, Utah, Flemish.
Johnson, Vearl, 755 W. 3rd So., Provo, Utah.
Jones, R. J., R. F. D. No. 4, Ogden, Utah.
McCann, J. W., 3484 S. 11 East, Salt Lake City, Utah.
Louper, Emil, Delta, Utah.
McCoaid, Chas. N., 290 N. University Ave., Provo, Utah, New Zealands.
McGhan. C. A., 39th S. & Hyland Drive, Salt Lake City, Utah.
Merklyohn, Wm.. R. R. 2, Brigham City, Utah, Flemish.
Meiling, Jack, 155 E. 1st South, Spanish Fork, Utah, Flemish Gi., and Steels and Chins. Meister, F, P.. Tremonton, Utah, White Flemish Giants.
Meseroy, Edw. S., Provo, Utah.
Miller, Carlos D., 978 W. 1st St., Provo, Utah.
Miller, Karl A., 720 West 4th St., Provo, Utah.
Ottley, W. Gail., 1147 Ramona Ave., Salt Lake City, Utah.
Owen, W. H., Lemay, Utah, American Blues.
Rhode, Chas. C., Ogden, Utah, Belgian Hares.
Reid, J., 44 No. 6 West, Salt Lake City, Utah, Gray Flemish.
Rolls, Mrs. H., 2484 South 6th E., Salt Lake City, Utah.
Ruch, Ben, 4th E. 3rd N. American Fork, Utah, Flemish and New Zealand.
Schramm, Stephen R., 275 E. 3 So., Salt Lake City, Utah.
Sessions. J. E., Box 234, Eureka, Utah, Angoras.
Shipley, W. A., Riverdale, Utah.
Simono, R. E., 1510 Red Wood Rd., Salt Lake City, Utah, Flemish.
Stanbridge, A. T., 741 South 2nd West. Salt Lake City. Utah, Flemish.
Starbuck, I. J., 972 S. Eighth St., Salt Lake City, Utah, White Flemish Giants. Stephenson, S. F., Riverton, Utah, Flemish.
Stevens, Clarence E., Holden, Utah.
Tucker, Clarence, 312 S. 3rd W. Provo, Utah.
Tucker, Kirtley, E., 174 W. Angelo Ave., Salt Lake City, Utah.
Vance, Arthur, 156 W. 3rd N., Provo, Utah.
Vance, Al W., 2435 So. 5 E„ Salt Lake City, Utah, Flemish.
Vance, L. H., 1344 Wasatch, Ave,, Salt Lake City, Utah, Flemish.
Walters, O. E., Bacchus, Utah.
Wiart. M. J., 764 29th, Ogden, Utah, New Zealand Reds.
Woodall, D. A., 117 N. Main St., Logan, Utah, Belgian Hares.
Gardyne, C. H., Montgomery Center, Vt., Chinchillas.
Greengrass, Robt. Geo.. Fales St., Box 266, Randolph, Vt., All breeds except Chins. Hyman, Wilie, W., Lowell, Vt., Flemish Giant and Belgian Hares.
Pratt, Lawrence M., Gayville, Vt., Flemish Giants.
Sharrow, R. H., Morrisville, Vt., Chinchilla Rabbits.
Travers, Henry, 24 Highland Ave., Rutland, Vt., Flemish and New Zealand.
Adams, Mrs. Walter E., Gainesboro, Va., New Zealand Reds.
Alford, Mrs. R. V., 232 42 St., Newport News, Va., New Zealand Reds.
Abraham, B., 727 Church St., Norfolk, Va., Chinchillas.
Ballentine, C. Roland, Box 264, Portsmouth, Va., Havanas.
Ballentine. Mrs. C. Roland, Box 264, Portsmouth, Va., Havanas.
Burton, Mrs. G. B., Troutsville, Va., Rufus Red Belgians.
Carr, Mary Alice, R, R. 1, Box 43, Vienna. Va., New Zealand. Red and Util., Belg.

Clark, Thos. A., R. R. 2, Box 267, Norfolk, Va.
Clay, Walter W., R. R. 1, Box 136. Norfolk, Va., Flemish Giants.
DeBusk, Claude T., R. F. D. No. 1, Saltville, Va., Flemish Giants.
Goldenberg, Carl Th., 412 Cabell St., Lynchburg, Va., Belgian Hares.
Gravatt, John Jr. Rev., Church St.. Staunton, Va., Flem. Giants and Guinea Pigs. Hagood, H. O., Schoolfield, Va., New Zealands.
Hanco*ck, M. L., R. 1. Hampton, Va.. New Zealand.
Hodkins, R. S., Gen. Del., Ocean View, Va., New Zealand Reds.
Howell, Geo. W., 417 Albemarle S. W., Roanoke. Va., English Cavies.
Jefferson, T. J., York Haven Rabbitry, Cappahosic, Va.
Laurel Rabbitry, The, 128 So. Laurel St., Richmond. Va., Chins, Flem., New Zealands. Price, R. E., Box 74, Phenix, Va., New Zealands.
Smith, Mrs. C. W., Haymarket, Va., New Zealand Reds.
Spessard, H, E., Schoolfield, Va., Flemish and English' Spots.
Trau.x, Calvin (Roger and Elmer), Montvale, Va.
Turner, T. A., R. F. D. 3, Ridgeway, Va., New Zealands.
Allison. T, B., Portage, Wash., French Silvers.
Armstrong, E. K., Auburn, Wash., Chinchillas, Silver Tips, N. Z., Whites, Blue Flem. Bald. J„ Kent, R.R. I. Wash.
Beatite, David G.. R. F. D. 1. Sumner, Wash., French Silver and American Blues. Berg, Roger J., Burlington, Wash., Flemish Giants.
Brinkman, C. F., 418 Lanson Ave., Hillyard, Wash.
Bettens, Sam., R. No. L., Box No. 29, Kent, Wash., Chinchillas.
Brislin. J. P., 302 6th St., N. W., Puyallup, Wash.
Brown, A. O.. R. R. 7, Box 80. Spokane, Wash.
Burkhart. Herbert, East 1128 Princeton. Spokane, Wash.. Flem.. Angoras. New Z. Bushnell, C. A., 1813 Railroad St., Aberdeen. Wash., Flemish Giants and Blue Flemish. Carter, H. K.. 7439 S. J. St., Box 174, Tacoma. Wash.
Case. M. O., 603-06 Seaboard Bldg., Seattle. Wash.
Chain. C. F., 5522-21st South, Seattle, Wash., White and Red N. Z. and Hims.
Chinchilla Rabbitry. Chehalis, Wash., Box 164.
Claypool, W. M., 930 Cecil Ave., Columbia Sta., Seattle, Wash.
Cooper, E. E., McCleary, Wash,. Chinchillas,
DeVries, Jack, 3403 E. 32nd Ave., Spokane, Wash., New Zealand (White and Red). Dickerson, J. B., Box No. 52, R. R. A.. Elmo, Wash., Muskrats, Skunks, Rufus Reds. Dodge, W. F. 5201 S. Eye St.. Tacoma. Wash., Blue Flem., French Silver, Am., Blue, Gray and Steel Flemish.
Elliott. E. H., R. F. D. No. 1, Olympia, Wash.. Chinchillas.
Gerber, R. E., 3411 E. 18th St., Box 243, Spokane, Wash., Flem. Giant and N. Z. White. Fenton. W. E., Burlington, Wash., Flemish Giants.
Frye, Marion, E. 1010 Brawns Ave., Olympia. Wash., Flem., N. Z., Dutch, Him. Check. Goodwin, J. J. Mrs.. W. 727 Cleveland, Spokane, Wash., Flem., N. Z., Dutch, Him. Check. Gregory, Alton, 322 Cherry St., Federal Distributing Co., Seattle, Wash., Chinchillas. Gunstone, John, R. R. No. 4, Olympia. Wash., Chinchillas and Guinea Pigs.
Gutman, Geo., R. R. 1, Boz 49 A, Ferndale. Wash.
Hall. E. W.. 921 Second Ave., Seattle, Wash., Chinchilla Rabbits.
Harris, Geo. A., Route 3, Box 293. Puyallup. Wash.. Flemish.
Harris, W. H., Box 281, Puyallup. Wash., Several Breeds.
Hatcher, Albert, 3330 Rockfeller, Everett, Wash.
Helme, J. S., Box 72, Washtucna, Wash.. Chinchilla.
Hewitt. T. W.. R. R. No. 1, Spanaway, Wash.
Howland, T. A., R. R. No. 6, Box 553. Seattle, Wash.. Flemish Giants, New Zealands and Chinchillas.
Hutchison, Florence. 3214 Lacey St., Spokane. Wash.. Flemish Silver Tops.
Jensen, Sam, Yelm, Wash., New Zealand and Blue Flemish.
Johnson, C. G.. 2820 Rockfeller Ave., Everett, Wash.. Chinchillas.
Jones, J.. 1022 W. Nora Ave.. Spokane, Wash., New Zealand Reds.
Kearns, Mrs. F., 434 So. Magnolia St.. Spokane, Wash.. Flemish and Checkered Giants. Keenan, Helen, Mrs., East 1514 Queen, Spokane. Wash., Checks Giants and New Z. Kinney's Golden Rule Rabbitry. R. R. 3-C. G., Moats. Chinchillas Olympia, Wash.
Keepes, Fred. R. D. 8, Yakima, Wash., Chinchillas.
Klaus, Louis J., Chehalis, Wash.. Chinchillas and New Zealand Reds.
Kress, Rosa A., R. R 1. Yelm, Wash., New Zealand, Red and White. Blue Flemish Gray and Steel Flemish.
Ladley. A. L,, 3745 W. Southern, Seattle, Wash., New Zealands and Chinchillas. LaFollette, Scott V.. Route 8. Spokane. Wash.
Lewis, W. M., Care Adj., General’s Office, Camp Lewis, Wash., New Zealand Reds and American Blues.
Leathers, Jas. K., R. R. 8. Box 11. Seattle, Wash., Chinchillas.
Lily, N. A., 2048 E. Kay St., Tacoma, Wash.
MacArthur, A. R., Box 94. Newport, Wash.
Ma rtin. Mrs. E. M.. Box 764, Port Orchard, Wash.
Matzenbauer, C. S., Box No. 170, R. 11. Seattle, Wash., New Z. Blue and White Flem. Mayer, Joe, East 1821 Providence, Spokane, Wash., Flemish.
McCubrey. J. H., R. R. 3. Box 198 Vancouver, Wash., N. Z., Martin Mink, Chinchilla. Merrill, Fred S., R. F. D.. No. 1, Veradale, Wash.
Meyer, Chas.. R. R. 2. Bellevue, Wash., Flemish, W. and R. New Zealands, Chinchillas. Mihelitch. John, 4031 Smith St., Everett, Wash.
Miller, A. D., 3823 Heray St., Spokane. Wash., New Zealand Reds and White Flemish Mix, W.. R. R. No. 1, Box No. 190 Olympia, Wash., Chinchillas.
Morman, Chas. S., E. 2003 1st Ave., Spokane. Wash., Flem. and Am. Checker Giants. Morphy, Wm.. Co-B 6th Engr., Camp Lewis. Wash., Flemish Giants.
Myrich. Preston, R., Portage, Wash.. Several Breeds.
Needham. Judge John. Route 2, Box 214. Kirkland. Wash., New Zealand & Flem. Gi Nelson. J. A., Box 317 A, Route 4. Tacoma. Wash., Flemish.
Newton. Mr. H.. 4065 26th Ave.. S. W., Seattle, Wash.. New Zealands.
Noel, M. E., Veradale, Wash., Flemish Giants.
Oberg, Mrs. Lena. Box No. 164, R. No. 1, Kent. Wash.
O'Brien, Mrs. Jennie O., 1415 So. Monroe St., Tacoma, Wash., Am. Blues.
Ott, A. J., East Syndicate Blvd., Spokane. Wash., Flemish Giant.
Ourock, R. O. ,E. 14 Courtland, Spokane, Wash.. Checks, Flemish and Hims.
Patton, John H., 216 Gouce St., Kent, Wash., Chinchillas.
Pettit, J. W., 1207 E. Grand, Everett. Wash.
Perry. Ira J., Box No. 447, Elma, Wash., Chinchillas.
Petty. A. L., 522 S. Ralph St., Spokane, Wash., Flemish Giants.
Phillips Fox Farms, Yakima. Wash., R. R. 6, Box 154 1-2.
Prechel, H. M., R. F. D. No. L, Winlock, Wash., Flemish and Chinchillas.
Plunkitt, L. J., 1909 East Pacific, Spokane, Wash.. Flemish and Checkered.
Powell. Henry W., 923 Alaska Bldg., Seattle, Wash., Chinchillas.
Powers. E. O., Box 444, Kent, Wash.. Chinchillas.
Rahn. W.. 8802 9th St., Seattle, Wash., Gray Flemish.
Rainier Rabbitry, 5152 Brighton St., Seattle, Wash.
Rice, H. S., North 5022 Stone St., Box 242. Spokane, Wash.. Rabbits.
Richardson. Myron H., E. 403 Henroy St.. Spokane, Wash., Havanas and Chinchillas. Rock. Clifton. North Cove, Wash., Flemish Giants.
Rogers, Chas, I., Custer, Wash., Chinchillas.
Rodgers, Tim, 3718 Hoyt Ave., Everett, Wash., Flemish Giants.
Roe. L. W., Kent, Wash.
Rosenstauch, Sam, 1504½ First Ave., Seattle, Wash.
Rudler, Bertha, Elma, Wash., Chinchillas. French Silver Himalayans.
Schemmel, Harry, 1428 Regal St., Hillyard, Wash., Flemish Giants.
Schomers, Nick, 818 N. Hogan St., Spokane. Wash.. Flemish Giants.
Scott, J. N., R. F. D. 5. Box 502, Tacoma, Wash., Blue. White Flemish, Chinchilla.
Shaw, R. C., 311 S. 28th St.. Tacoma, Wash., Blue Flemish.
Shelton, J. E., R. R. No. 3. Box No. 74-A, Vancouver, Wash.
Sisson. Willard, 614 Augusta Ave., Spokane. Wash.. Flemish Giants.
Skinner, Henry, Bemerton, Wash., Several Breeds.
Starks, W. H.. East 3418 30th Ave.. Spokane. Wash., Chinchilla.
Sumethin, Alvin A., Moclips, Wash., Chinchillas, Lilacs, Silver Fox Giants.
Vanderkinter, Ben H., 3001 N. 8th St.. Tacoma, Wash.. Chinchilla and Blue Foxe> Tayler, W. A.. Rolling Bay, Wash.. Rabbits and Cavies.
Treer. L. A., 553 Stewart Bldg., Seattle, Wash. Cavies.
Ulrich. Mrs. Rowena. 1216 36th St., Spokane, Wash., Chinchillas.
White, F. A.. 1428 E. Crown Ave., Spokane. Wash.
Ward, Mrs. Hattie R., R. R. No. 5, Box No. 327, Centralia, Wash, Chins., and Blue Flen Wilcox. O.. R. Route 5, Centralia. Wash., Chinchillas and Flem. Giants.
Welter. A. R.. 227 C. St.. S. W. Auburn, Wash.. Chinchillas.
Wilson. Drexel. North 4411 Stevens, Spokane, Wash., Dutch, Hims. and Flemish. Wolfe. J. B., Care Hotel Olson, Deer Park, Wash.. Flemish and Chinchilla.
Wood. C. F., R. F. D.. No. 1, Charleston. Wash.. Standard Chinchilla.
Woods, V. K., Mrs., R. F. D. 6, Spokane. Wash., American Blues and Flem. Giant.
Baldauf. John. 944. Highland Ave., W. Va.. Follansbee.
Boyd. Mrs. R. H.. 2138 8th Ave.. Huntington. W. Va., Hims.
Boyd, R. H., 2138 8th Ave., Huntington. W. Va.. Chinchillas, Havanas. Hims and English Cavies.
Crawford. C. P., Box 166. Elkins. W. Va.. Belgian Hares.
Fulks, W. H.. 1115 3rd Ave., Huntington. W. Va.
Fulks, Mrs. W. H.. 1115 3rd Ave., Huntington. W. Va., Chin.
Gerlack. Roy. 412 8th Ave.. Huntington. W. Va., Havanas.
Gould. C. J.. 1224 10th Ave.. Huntington, W. Va., Chin.
Graham, A. L.. Box No. 105, Kingston, W. Va., Flemish Giants.
Grove, Frank, P. O. 548. Elkins. W. Va.. Rufus Red Belgians.
Huntington Poultry & Exhibit Co.. Box 101. Huntington, W. Va., Flemish Giants. Lilly. L. V.. Crab Orchard. W. Va.
Newman. B. B., 102 Oakland Ave., Huntington, W. Va., Hims.
Nicholas, L. D.. Harpers Ferry, W. Va.. Rufus Red Belgian Hares.
Simpson, Frank, Room 9, Loop Bldg.. Huntington. W. Va.. Silver Gray.
Sterkins. C. E., West Huntington, Gen. Del., Huntington, W. Va., Flemish Giants. Tripplett. J. E., 2436 1st Ave., Huntington, W. Va., Flemish Giants.
Webb, K. V., 356 Smith St.. Huntington, W. Va.. Flemish Giant.
Youngman, Jas. H.. R. D. 1, Box 113, Short Creek, W. Va.. Belgian and Flemish.
Alf, Rev. Albert. Pound, Wis., Chinchillas and Havanas.
Anderson, Jesse L.. 410 S. 6th St.. Rex Rabbitry. Fort Atkinson. Wis.. Flemish Giants Havanas and Dutch.
Blanchette, Clarence. 341 W. Canal St.. Chippewa Falls, Wis.
Buss, Dr. V. I., Rio, Wis.
Church, E. F.. 1209 Pleasant St., Jeferson, Wis.
Clark, Frank, Packaukee, Wis.
Damuth, Ed., No. 8 Engine House, Oshkosh, Wis., Cavies and Flemish Giant.
Davis, John, 646 6th St.. Reedsburgh, Wis., French Havanas.
Denk. Louis. Village of Valders, Wis., New Zealands.
Dol Sants, Nickolos, R. No. 2, Marinette, Wis.
Ericson, Mrs. C. V., Box 162. Phelps, Wis., Belgians.
Fisher. C. F., R. R. 3, LaCross, Wis., English Cavies.
Fissler, John A., Key Lock 96, St. Naziana. Wis., Chinchillas and Belgian Hares. Gavinski, Martin, Adams, Wis., Rufus Red Belgians.
Gelbke ,C. A., 1021 River St., Appleton, Wis. Chine. Angoras, Blk. Giants, White Ermine. Gill. J. D. Mrs., Star Route 1, Mt. Tabor, Wis., Belgian Hares.
Glaser, C. A., 637 Mason. Appleton, Wis., Flemish Giants.
Gravel, Mrs. Bertha, Pembine, Wis.
Hasse, J. P., 407 Fuller St., Columbus, Wis., New Zealand Reds.
Herman, Walter, 221 Grant St., Oshkosh, Wis., Flemish, Belgians.
Hunt, Julius, R. R. 6, Box 45, Oshkosh, Wis., New Zealand Reds.
Hyde, R., 297 Foust Ave., Oshkosh, Wis., Cavies.
Jordan, H. E., R. 3, Box 6 B., Racine, Wis.. Am. Blues, New Zealands and Flemish. Kickhoefer, Franklin, R. R. 3, Clintonville. Wis.
Lassallette, Edw., 225 N. Water St.. Reedsburg, Wis., Havanas.
Macky, Waino, Box 403, Red Granite, Wis., New Zealand Reds.
Miller, Earl D., 961 Island Ave., Milwaukee, Wis.
Miller F. A., Box 179, Oshkosh, Wis., American Blues and Flemish Giants.
Negley, Geo. H., Athelstane, Wis., Flemish Giants.
Nelson, Alfred, R. R. 1, Box 39, Prentice, Wis., New Zealand Reds.
Norris, J. L., Spooner. Wis.
Pauls, Chas. P., 410 Plumer, St., Wausau, Wis.
Pfeiffer, Gustav A., Box 47. Randon Lake, Wis..
Porter, Wilbur, R. R. 1. Stevene Point, Wis.
Priest, R., La Valle, Wis., New Zealands, American Blues and Flemish.
Ramaker, G. W. H., R. No. 1, Oostburg, Wis., Chinchillas.
Randerson. Ed., Kaukauna, Wis.
Raess,. John. Darlington, Wis., Flemish Giants.
Reinhardt, Henry, Route 8. Neenah. Wis.
Reinke, Reginald, 722 W. Packard St., Appleton. Wis.
Rice, Miles. Milton, Wis.
Runge, Ralf, Baraboo, Wis., Blue Flemish.
Rivin. Harry. Waupaca, Wis,
Schrader, Ivan, R. R,, 1. Box 70, Berlin. Wis., Chinchillas.
Schrap, Roland W., 149 S. Main St.. Juneau, Wis., Chinchillas.
Smith. W. A., Eau Galle, Wis., Cavies.
Stumpf, Harry A., R. R. 1, Menasha, Wis., Chinchillas.
Thieme, Harry B., Conover. Wis.. Reg. Flemish Giants.
Tiemann, Rev. H. F., 23 Cleveland St., Cedarburg, Wis., Flemish Giants.
Vogel, Emil, 99 Seventh Ave.. Oshkosh, Wis., Flemish and Cavies.
Votava, Chas., R. R. 2. Necedah. Wis., New Zealands.
Witt. Fred T.. R. F. D. 1. Box 106, Clintonville. Wis.
Wolf, Joe, 658 7th St., Milwaukee. Wis., Rufus Red Belgian Hares.
Zindars, Earnest. R. 7, Box 2-B, Oshkosh. Wis., Belgian Hares.
Zumbach, Harold, Calamine, Wis., Flemish Giants.
Cooper A. H. M. D., Lander, Wyo., Chinchillas, Silver. Black Foxes.
Cyplus, Ralph O.. Battery C, 76th F. A., Ft. D. A. Russel. Wyo.
Dadisman, S. H., University of Wyoming, Laramie. Wyo., Havanas. N. Z. and Am. Blues-Greisinger, Phillip, Basin, Wyo.
Austin & Pennoyer, Grand Forks, B. C. Can., Chinchillas.
Barlow. P., All Bay St., Sydney, B. C., Can., Chins, and White Flemish.
Baker. A., Grand Forks, B. C. Can.. Chinchillas.
Beaudoin, Louis. 1 Rue St., Pierre St., Ville St. Laurent, P. Q., Can.
Botwright. Mrs. Barbara L.. 631 6th Ave.. W. Alberta, Calgary, Can., Chinchillas. Boucher. Frank P., 627 Monterey Ave., Victoria. B. C-, Can., Black Sib. and Blue Imp. Bower, Mrs. W. A., R. R. 2. Vernon. B. C., Can., White Flem., Chins., Angoras. Beverns. Bradbury, Fred C., 2882 Inlet Drive. Victoria, B. C., Can., Rufus Red Belgians. Broadhurst, Mrs. Norman, Brentwood Bay, Victoria, B. C.. Can., Chins, Hims. Bl. Beverns. Butterfield, Mrs. J. C.. Bryn Rabbitry, Saanicton, B. C., Can., Chinchillas.
Budge, Mrs. John, R. R. 7, Owen Sound. Prov. Ont., B. C., Can., Flemish Giants. Bullen, D. B. F., Langford. B. C., Can., Blue Beverans.
Carter, G. L., Mrs., 1925 Woodlay Rd., Victoria, B. C., Can., French Silvers.
Chappell.M. T., 58 Woodward Pk.. Toronto, Can.
Charlton. W. V., 184 Rideout St., S. , London. Ont., Can., Peruvian Cavies, Dutch Rabbits. Lop Ears.
Charter, Mrs. H. N., The Manor Farm, Crofton. B. C., Can., Blue Beverans.
Clark, T. S., 554 Dupplin Rd., Victoria, B. C., Can., Flemish Giant.
Cook, A. B., Fort Qu. Appella. Saskatchewan, Can.
Davy, Fred, Sydenham, Ont.. Can.
Drewery. Mrs. E. B., Como Rabbitry, R. R. No. 2, New Westminster, B. C., Can., Blue Beverens, Chinchillas, Glavecots.
Deans, W. K., R. R. 2, Kennilworth, Ont., Can., Flemish Giant, and Chinchillas.
Dyne, Mrs. Bradley, P. O. Box No. 126, Duncan B. C., Can., Rabbits.
Dorner, Henry, Grand Fork, B. C., Can., Chinchillas.
Dorsett, T. J., 2317 Renfew St., Vancouver, B. C., Can., New Zealand.
Finel, A. A., 1361 A Parthenias, Montreal, Quebec, Can., Flem. Black Argents French, Mrs. J. G., 3628 Saanich Rd., Columbia Victoria, Can., Flem., Sib., Angoras. New Zealand and Dutch.
French, W. A.. 3628 Saanich Rd., Victoria, B. C., Can., Flemish, Chins., and all breeds Garver, B. K., Center Rd., Sidney, B. C. V. I., Can., White Flemish.
Gerbig, Wm., 123 DeKay, Kitchener, Ont., Can., Chinchillas.
Gibbs, J. L. A., Roach Hur St., R. M. D. 1, Duncan, V. I. B. C., Can., Champ. DeArg. and Black Siberians.
Gleason, E. S., 41 Wellington St., N., Quebec, Sherbrook, Can.
Greenwood, E., 1068 Bank St.. Victoria, B. C., Can., Chinchillas.
Hearem, C. C. & H. C.. Grand Forks, B. C., Chinchillas, Creams.
Hickford, J. S., Seven Oaks, P. O., Victoria, Canada, Argentene Creams.
Hurst, W. P., Sidney, B. C., Can., Hhins. and White Flemish.
Johnston, F. M.. 34 Nelson St., Brantford, Ont., Can., Chinchillas.
Jones, Geo., Sook Post Office, Vancouver Is., Can., Chinchillas.
Kelley, H. F. Mrs., Lewis Creek, B. C., Can., Chinchillas
Kerry, Edward Charles, Alberta, Wetas Kiwin, Can., Chinchilla Rabbits.
Knight, John William. 1011 Burdett Ave., Victoria, B. C., New Zealands.
Kutter, Rev Jno., Ont., Arnprior, Can., Chinchillas.
Lawrence, Mrs. S. B., Main St., Grand Forks, B. C., Can., Chinchillas.
Lea, Jno. A., Box 370, Summerside, P. E. I., Can., Chinchillas.
LeBIanc, J. E., 337 High St.. Moncton, N. B., Can., Chinchillas.
Lingard, V, M„ 7 Edgerton St., Brantford, Ont., Can., Chinchillas.
Lefurgey & HanBon, Giles Rd., Vancouver Is., B. C., Can., Chinchillas.
MacDonald, E.. 539 Cassier St., Vancouver. B. C., Can., White Flemish Giants.
Lindop, Mrs. F. W., Queens & Lonsdale. N. Lonsdale, No. Van., B. C., Can., Chins, and Chin. Giants.
Mackey, Wm., Box 285, Swift Current Sask, Can.
Little. G. E., Coal Branch. Kent Co., N. B., Can., Chinchillas.
Matthews. Wm.. 3645 Dundas St., Vancouver, B. C.. Capitol Hill, P. O., Can., Flem. Gi. Lumber & Anthony, 28 Northview, Toronto, Can.
Rattray. B. E., 968 Grosvenor Ave., Winnipeg, Can., Chinchillas.
Pott, Herbert E., Lake Hill, P. O., Victoria. B. C„ Can., White Flemish.
Rattray, W., 968 Grosvenor Ave., Manitoba, Winnipeg, Can., Chinchillas.
Schwartz, Mrs. L., Sluggetts, P. O., Vancouver I., B. C., Can.
Robinhood Fur Farms, T. H. Rhodes Mgr., 468 Inkster Blvd., Man. Winnipeg, Can., Chins. Simpson, A. R., 126 Regent St., Kingston, Ont., Can.
Scanlon, C. E., Kamloops, B. C., Can.
Sisson, W. T., Harbon, Rd., Sidney, B. C., V. I., Can., Chinchilla.
Smith, Howard, 240 Grandview, Saskatchewan Moose Jaw, Can.
Smythe, C. C., Halvorgate, Sask, Can., Chinchillas.
Southerland, Mrs. E., Box 276, Kelowa. B. C., Can., Chinchillas.
Tilleson, A. S., 1508 Myrtle St., Victoria, B. C., Can., Blue Flemish.
Stapleford. W. R.. Box 1, Ont., Watford. Can.. Flemish Giant.
Swan, R. F., 1761 4th Ave., W. Vancouver B. C.. Can., Blue Beveren.
Wallace, J. A., Wcyburn, Sask., Can.
Wolley, C., 2895 Inlet Drive, Victoria B. C., Can., Belgians.
Wood, Victor A., 166 Arlington St., Winnipeg, Can.
Young, Fred G., Young, Saskatchewan. Can., Chinchillas.
Allegre, C. F., R. No. 2, Box No. 235. Chinchillas.
Andrews. Lyle, Summer, Washington, J. J. Whites and Flemish.
Axtra, A. L.. Ponsford, Minn
Allen. J. A., Vida. Oregon, Chinchillas.
Anderson. O.. R. R. 4. Inlay. Mich.
Aeschback, L. S., 233 Abbot Rd., Buffalo, N. Y.
Ballard. P.. Hollywood. Wash., R. F. D. Woodinville. Chinchillas. Beherus, M.. Sheltz. Neb.. R. R. 2. Belgian Hares.
Bowen & Snvder. Seattle. Wash. 2020 3rd. Ave.. Chinchillas. Bowles. G., Kent, Washington.
Burch, Doc.. Hills. Minn.
Blake. A.. 115 Pleasant St.. Windsor. Conn.
Bain, L. H., Motor Route A.. Eugene. Oregon.
Bittner. Ed. G.. Holland, Mich., R. R. 1 Chinchillas. 232 Endicott Bldg., St. Paul. Minn.
Clendenon. B. H., R. D. No. 3, Box No. 158, Viheland, N. J.
Colegroe, J.. Sheffield. Penn
Chapman, J. B.. Eugene, Oregon. Chinchillas.
Clark. P. R., 324 Lucy Ave., Salt Lake City, Utah.
Colbauth. Geo., 7 South St., Plymouth, Mass Cleary,G..Seattle,Wash.
Crowder. R., Sedalia, Colorado.
Douglas. R. V., Maywood, Neb. Chinchillas Engle, Mrs. Paul, Box No. 66., Wautoma, Wis.
Elliott, D. B., R. No. 2, Box 26 A., Oregon City. Oregon. Chinchillas.
Facey. A. E. Jr., Benedict Ave., P. O. Box No. 115, Valley Stream, Long Island, N. Y. Ferrel, F.. 1360 Jefferson St., Santa Clara, Calif., Chinchillas, de Argent and Blue Flem. Farechild, B. F.. 1156 No. 1st, Box No. 176. Chinchillas.
fa*gan.H.E., RedBluff,Calif.Chinchillas.
Fenner. W.. Waldo, Wis.
Gild Edge Rabbitry, P. O. Box No. 717. Flemish.
Crowell. L., 45 So. 23 St.. San Jose, Calif. Flemish.
Gelderman, Geo., 413 E. 25th St., Tacoma, Wash.
Goodspeed. H.. 4929 Perry St.. Denver, Col. Chinchillas.
Harrison, L. B.. Jeffersonville, Ind. Flemish.
Hamby, F,. 4401 Red River St., Austin, Texas.
Haberman, R.. Marpley, Oregon. Flemish Hawley, F., Lynden. Wash
Ingalls,C.A., 322StokesBldg.Foxes and rabbits.
James.P.,R. R. 5,31 A.,DeerPark, Wash.
Johnson. Mrs. Walter, Amira. Wash. Flemish.
Johnson, N., 271 San Jose Ave., Los Gatos, Calif Krull. Wm.. R. R. 1.. Clintonville, Wis.
Kirkeby. Mrs. B. F.. 938 W. 63rd. Place. Los Angeles . Calif.
Koester, A. F.. Wyandotte. Mich.
Lemmer Fox and Fur Co., Le Marathon, Wis.
Lister. E. E.. Bedford, Iowa. Flemish Loftus, V B... 11 Fuller Ave., Ashtabula, Ohio.
Leckie. J. Stuart. Middle Bench Road, Penticton B. C.. Canada.
Murray. A.. P. O. Box No. 18, El Cerrto, Calif McBarren. F.. Veronia, Oregon. Fox. Mink and Pheasants Mylroie, Mrs. A. J., 1146 No. 77th. Seattle. Wash.
Maddux. J. W., 79 Willis Ave., London, Ohio.
Myl roie, A. J.. 1146 No. 77th, Seattle, Wash. Chinchillas.
Monk. A. P.. R. F. D. No 44. Clifton. Maine Flemish.
Montague, Amos E., 221 Gibbs St., Coro. Mich. Chinchillas Marbold, B. F.. Greenview, Ill. Flemish.
Overman & Jay. 9125 8th Ave., S., Seattle. Wash.
Osborn, H.. 3525 68th St. S. E., Portland. Oregon.
Osborn, L. E., Estes Pk.. Colorado. Chinchillas and foxes.
Plunkitt. H. H.. 1909 E. Pacific St., Spokane. Wash.
Price, R. E., Box 74. Phexix, Va.
Fhelps, C., 966 Broadway, DePere, Wis Ritz, J. S., R. D. No. 3. Canton. Ohio.
Rotier, H., East Troy, Wis.
Rutherford, A. L.. Elizabethton. Tenn.
Row. J. M., Box No. 218. Lorna Linda. California.
Snow. Chas.. Petrolia. Butler Co.. Pa.
Sunshine Fur Farm. Vermillion, So. Dakota.
Stockford, H. S., R. No. 6. Box No. 88, Vancouver, Wash.
Smith. Chauncy, Box 293, Lorna Linda, Calif.
Simpson, R.. Mills, Mass.
Schoad. R.. R. No. 2.. Newberg, Oregon.
Saunders, C.. Everett, Wash., 1729 Colby Ave.
Scenic Ridge Chin. Farm. Thompsonville. Mich.
Sullivan. Wm. J.. 7 Caswell St., Ea. Taunton. Mass.
Stull. W.. Thurmont. Md.
Taylor, L. R., 47 N. Y. Ave., Los Gatos. Calif.
Urson, Mrs. Viola. 7719 Stone Ave., Seattle. Wash.
Vilmure, Ed. C.. Girard. Kansas.
Wick. C., Box 194, Haynes, No. Dakota White, G. L.. Everett. Wash.
White, E. W., 504 No. 45th., Seattle, Wash.
Wolfe, Deer Park, Wash.
Wehmer, Geo., R. R. No. 5, Princeton, Ind.
Welcher. K.. 315 Jewell St.. Howell, Mich.
Wood. J. L., R. R. No. 5, Dayton. Ohio.
Whitestone Silver Fox Farm. 289 Morris Ave., Elizabeth. N. J.
Warless. E., Box 515. Ford City. Pa.
Ziimbrunn, Amil, Kirk. Oregon.
American Blue American Checkered Giants Angoras Belgian Hares
Belgian Hares (Heavy Weight)
Beveren Blue
Beveren White
Black and Tan
Blue and Tan
Chinchillas Heavyweights
Champagne de Argents Dutch, Black Dutch, Blue Dutch, A. O. C.
English, Black English, Blue English, A. O. C.
Flemish, Black Flemish, Blue Flemish, Sandy Gray
Flemish, Light Gray Flemish, Steel Gray Flemish, White Havanas Himalayans Imperial Blues Japanese Lops, English Lops, French Lilac
New Zealand Polish
Rhinelander Silver Gray Giant Silver Blue Giant Silver Gray Silver Brown Silver Fawn Silver Black Giants Sitka
Silver Blue
Any of the following ailments: Colds, catarrh or snuffles, ear canker, slobbers, pot belly, sore hocks, vent disease, absesses, tumor, rupture, blindness in one or both eyes, lop, fallen (except in lop eared varieties) and side carried ear, tore ear or ears, 3/4 inch or more portion missing showing noticeably.
Off colored eyes, wall eyes, moon eyes, spots in pupil and unmatched eyes.
Crooked feet or legs, bow legs, cow hocked, knocked knees, or any deformed bones in body. (Note tail disqualifications.)
Off colored spots in solid varieties, dyeing or plucking, or full of foreign colored hair such as blue or black full of white hairs.
Wiry, tail screw and bob tail.
Wiry tail: One permanently set to either side.
Screw tail or twisted tail.
Broken tail: When broken more than one-half inch from end and permanently set cut of line.
Bob tail: When cut off or missing, showing same to be conspicuously out of proportion.
Dewlaps should disqualify in competition in the following varieties.
Belgians (not heavy weight Belgians). Dutch, English, Silver, Himalayans, Polish, Imperials, Havanas, Black, Blue and Tans.
White toe nails or nails in colored Flemish, Chinchillas or New Zealands.
Sore eyes. Specimen in moult or otherwise out of condition (but not diseased). Stray hairs, broken teeth or toe nails. White toe nails
in any colored animal except where white feet are specified or white toe nails are a disqualification.
Double dewlaps.
Poor tail carriage, one that is not permanently set on either side but favors either side.
Kinky boned tails and those with knot on end to be severely cut.
Dead tail. When hard and apparently lifeless for more than one inch from end.
Special disqualifications for special breeds specified under heading of breed.
NOTE—All Foreign Standard Breeds not covered by the following Standards will be recognized and judged by the Standard of their respective country.
American Blue
Rich, clear, dark slate blue, with as great a depth of color as possible. Should be free from all white hairs, sandy or rusty color, and uniform blue color over entire body, feet, legs, chest, head, ears, belly and tail.
Points....25Cuts...........1 to 10
Mandolin. meaning slightly arched, not humped. Compact, broad, meaty back, slightly arched, not flat. Medium sized bone, well developed thighs and fairly broad across hips; body tapering from hips slightly towards shoulders; as small dewlaps as possible.
Point3..........25Cuts........... 1 to 10
Well shaped, not too long, rather slim, not blocky, even color. Eyes to be blue and bold.
About 5 to 5 1/4 inches in length, narrow, well set on, tapering slightly to a point. Even color.
Points.......... 5Cuts.......... 1to3
Straight, medium size, dark toe nails.
Points .........5Cuts...........1 to 3
Coat to be free from moult and good deep color. Free from any stray colored hairs, with dense, soft, fine, silky texture. Flesh firm and solid.
Points..........20Cuts.......... 1to10
Bucks 9 pounds. Does 10 pounds.
Points....10Cuts.......... 1to5
Bucks under 6 pounds. Does under 7 pounds. Bucks over 10
pounds. Does over 11 pounds. White patches of hair. Any other colored eyes but blue.
Cuts: Stray white hairs, sandy or rusty color, or any other foreign colored hair, uneven color on body, legs or loins, such as show-ng a silver gray tint. Rough or uneven coat.
American Silver Giants—Blue and Gray
The Silver Giant rabbit resembles the English Silver rabbit in every way but size and length of fur. They are Silver Gray and Silver Blue.
Undercoloring in Grays a rich, deep, blue-black, in Blues a dark pearl gray.
Even throughout the entire body, head, ears, feet and tail.
Distinct, sharp, bright and evenly distributed throughout the entire body, head, ears, tail, and feet.
Points .......... .5Cuts...........1to5
A rich hazel brown in Grays, and a slaty blue in Blues. To be bolt and bright.
Points...5Cuts............1 to 3
Not under 5 inches and carried erect.
Points...5Cuts.1 to 3
Thick, long, and even. Free from moult and hutch stains.
Points...........20Cuts..... ......1 to 10
Neat, long, broad fore and hind quarters, back well arched from neck and exceptionally meaty shoulders. Weight, bucks 10 pounds; does 11 pounds.
Points...........20Cuts ...1 to 10
Neat and healthy appearing.
Points....5Cuts. ..........1 to 3
Bucks weighing under 8 pounds and does weighing under 9 pounds. Eyes other than brown in Silver grays; eyes other than blue in Silver blues. White patches, crooked legs, drooped or fallen ears, putty nose and all general disqualifications.
White, Black, Blue and Fawn. The color to be clear, deep and
uniform all over the animal. Eyes to be pink in whites and a color to match, as nearly as possible, the body color in the other colors.
Points .........10Cuts...........1 to 3
To be cobby and compact, and have the general appearance of a large fluffy ball. Should not weigh less than 6 pounds.
Points..........10Cuts...........1 to 5
To be well covered with a good quality of wool, to be full in the chest and with a well rounded body.
Points..._.....10Cuts ...........1to3
To be well covered with wool, with ears short, stubby and well covered with wool of good quality, and with ear tufts on ends of the
To be well covered with good quality wool, extending well out to the extreme ends. Feet to have a fringe of wool hanging from them. Points................... 10Cuts........ __.lto3
Wool free from mats, to show the effect of thorough and frequent grooming and entirely free from moult.
CONDITION OF FLESH Should be firm and solid.
NOTE—Cut severely for lack of ear tufts, matted fur and hutch stains. Long, narrow heads long, non-tufted ears.
The texture shall be very fine and as silky as possible.
Points..........15Cuts.......... 1to5
The fur shall be of good length from 3½ to 5 inches long. 5
Champagne De Argent
The under color is clear with blue intermixed with black and white hairs.
The silvering must be even all over the body, presenting a sharp bright, silvery appearance, full of life and sparkle.
The coat must be soft, dense, silky and smooth, lying loosely on the body.
The ears must be neat, straight and well set on head, rather high in position; eyes to be dark brown.
The body shape should be neat and compact, not bulgy or baggy.
Condition must be such that the rabbit is clean healthy and lively, free from dirt, eyes bright and coat sleek and smooth.
Size, about eight pounds.
Disqualifications—White patches, crooked legs, dropped ears, putty nose, and eyes other than brown.
American Checkered Giant
Standard of Perfection as adopted by The American Checkered Giant Club
Bucks 11 pounds, does 13 pounds; cuts on bucks 6 points for each pound under 11 pounds; cuts on does 4 points for each pound under 13 pounds. All points equal weight wins but must retain shape. Points
12—cuts 1 to 12.
Long, well-arched, broad hind quarters, tapering slightly to the front but not wedged shaped. Bucks less tapering than does, body carried well off the ground. Points 15—cuts 1 to 15.
Front legs long, and straight, medium bones, hind legs larger, carried parallel with the body and as free from making color as possible. Points 5—cuts 1 to 5.
Large, well proportioned; bucks more massive than does but avoid bull-dog type. Points 5—cuts 1 to 5.
May be black, blue or A. O. C A. O. C. means Gray, Tortoise, Yellow or any other color, but must not be Black and Gray or Blue and Tortoise; any three colors disqualifies.
Shape of butterfly wings circling around nose from lip to lip, body of butterfly to be in proportion to wings and extend toward the fore head. A small spot on nose smaller than a pea or a strip of white along lower edge of upper lip shall not disqualify but will be cut full 10 points. Points 10—cuts 1 to 10.
To consist of a circle of the marking color around each eye, syme-trical in shape, both eye circles to be uniform and clear from ears and cheek spots and butterfly. Points 5—cuts 1 to 5.
Spots of color on each cheek about ½ inch in diameter and separated at least 3/8 inch from eye circle. Points 5—cuts 1 to 5.
Solid color from tip to base, separated frm eye circle and cheek spots. Ears to be 6 inches long. Points 5—cuts 1 to 5.
A strip of color markings following the backbone from base of ears to tip of tail, which is called spine marking. Cut one points for each inch missing. Points 5—cuts 1 to 5.
To consist of two spots or two groups of spots on each side, both sides to be exactly alike. Spots may be from 10 to 18 square inches on each side. These spots or groups are not to extend past midway of body, shoulders to be free from spots. Cut 4 points for each spot forward of midway of body. Points 16—cuts 1 to 16.
Belly and crotch to be free from color marking as possible. Points 2—cuts 1 to 2.
Fur to be long, thick and glossy and not of the fly-back type. Plenty of good hair and free from moult. Points 10—cuts 1 to 10.
To be clean, no stains, spots; not poor or not too fat. Points 5 —cuts 1 t 5.
Bucks 4 months old, 5 to6 pounds. Does 5% to 6% pounds.
Bucks 5 monthsold,6 to7pounds.Does 6½ to 7½ pounds.
Bucks 6 monthsold,7 to8pounds.Does 7½ to 9 pounds.
Bucks 7 monthsold,8 to9pounds.Does 9 to 10½ pounds.
Bucks 8 months old, 9 to 10 pounds. Does 10½ to 12 pounds.
Bucks 9 months old, 10 to 11 pounds. Does 12 to 13 pounds.
A good healthy and thrifty rabbit will continue to grow until it is 12 months old. These weights may be exceeded, but always keep in mind the shape and type of your rabbit.
Colds, catarrh or snuffles, ear canker, slobbers, pot belly, sore hocks, vent disease, absesses, tumors, ruptures, blindness in one or both eyes, lop or fallen ears, torn ears when three-fourths inch or more, portion showing noticeably, off colored eyes, wall eyes, crooked feet or legs, bowed legs, cow-hocked, knock kneed or any deformed bones in the body. Wry. screw and bobbed tail; broken tail when permanently set out of line; white spot within butterfly larger than a small pea. A white strip along edge of upper lip shall not be considered to mean a white spot—a white spot must be surrounded by marking color. Split butterfly, absence of either cheek mark, absence of one eye circle; if both cheek spots are connected to eye circles; if both eye circles are connected to ears or butterfly. Ears under 5% inches. If more than four spots of color marking on both sides forward of midway of body resemble chain.

This does not mean spots on back of the neck. If the strip of color of backbone markings sets off to either side. If more than one-fourth of spine marking is missing in one solid patch or one-half in all. Measurements to be from base of ears to tip of tail. If side mark-ings are connected to spine markings. If no color markings on hip or hips. Sway back, bucks under 9 pounds, does under 10 pounds. Double dew-lap.
A spot of body color in the marking color is not a disqualification but a cut, other than in the hose—then it must be larger than a small pea, or if a spot up from ear base showing very noticeable, but must be at least two inches from base of ears, and be very noticeable.
NOTE—If a spot of color is connected with the spine markings and separated from the side markings, it shall be judged as part of the spine markings and cut heavily.
Belgian Hare Standard
AS Adopted by The National Belgian Hare Club of America
Lopped or fallen ear, distinct white (except under jaws or belly). front foot decidedly awry, Wry tail, total blindness, chronic case of “sunffles”, case of “ear-canker”, case of “vent-disease”.
(A specimen should have the benefit of any doubt.
Specimen—At maturity, eight pounds. At from four to eight months, one pound per month.
Legs—Long in proportion to size of body; thus giving the specimen what is termed "Lofty-Station.”
Heart-Girth—Large in proportion to size of specimen; thus ensuring strong vitality and great lung capacity.
Ears—At maturity, five inches in length.
Eyes—Large, in proportion.
Head—Rather large.
Body—Long and comparatively thin; thus assisting in giving the animal a "racy” appearance.
Back—Uniformly and smoothly arched; without abrupt squareness or reversal.
Loin—Full, round, smooth and comparatively heavy.
Flank—Well tucked-up, with well-sprung ribs; thus preventing “bagginess" in appearance.
Neck and Breast—As free from “dew-lap” as possible.
Ears—Neatly set on, under perfect control, and gracefully and well-carried at a fifty-degree angle.
Eyes—Round, full, bold.
Front Legs—Well placed and straight; from a front view.
Front Feet—Firmly attached to leg; thus carrying the specimen well “up-on-toe,” as viewed from side.
Back, Sides, Shoulders—Rich “Rufus-red;” carried to a good depth.
Hind Quarters—As nearly colored as above and as free from plain-gray, as possible.
Stray Hairs—Above sections, free from white hairs; caused by fighting and other injury.
Ticking—(Black tips on hairs covering sections already enumerated.) Sufficiently plentiful to produce a distinctly “wavy” appearance when the coat of animal is being stroked.
Front Feet—The richest “Rufus-red” possible.
Hind Feet—Tan or buff; the richer and deeper the better.
Ears—Except for “lacing”, rich “old-gold,” not smudged with ticking.
Lacing—(Distinctive black tips of new-moon shape on the ears.) Should meet the golden color of the ear abruptly, be carried closely to edge of ear, and be carried an inch along the thinner edge of the ear, and as much or more along the thicker edge.
Belly—Creamy-white in color.
Under The Jaw—Cinnamon, or creamy-white.
Eyes—Rich hazel.
General Appearance—Males, distinctively masculine, and females distinctively feminine; to ensure their being of prolific tendencies.
Disposition—Alert, and somewhat restless; indicating undisturbed circulation, and plenty of nerve force.
Flesh—Firm and resistant to the touch; giving the specimen greater weight than would be expected.
Bone—Neat, dense and flinty, with no show of coarseness, comparatively.
Ears—Fine in texture; not spoon-shaped or clumsy, comparatively.
Condition—Eyes, ears and other flesh parts, undamaged.
Bloom—Fur, well matured, clean, and in attractive form.
General Appearance—Mandolin shape; long broad back, haunches well developed, tail broad, medium length, carried close to body ........................ .....——,—------------20
Size—Large as possible, but not under 7 lbs., firm clean flesh and
healthy condition ________—-------------------—------ 20
Coat—Long, silky, thick, soft, very lustrious, exceedingly fine, lying
loosely on body _____.________—---------------------- 20
Color—Clean intense shade of light lavender blue throughout....... 20
Head—Bold, not too long; profile markedly bent down; muzzle
broad................................ ...............—5
Eyes—Large brilliant blue, iris to match body color .—------ 5
Ears—Fairly long, well furred, carried erect to form a V.... 5
Feet—Fore feet straight and short; hind feet longer and stronger;
nails blue as possible ...—......................—... 5
Faults—Hairs or eyes other than blue; pendant ears; coarse, thin, uneven or woolly coat; legs bent; slab sides.
The same standard applies with the exception of color which is pure white, including toe nails and must have blue eye also.
The American Chinchilla Rabbit
As Adopted at Colorado Springs, Colorado Convention. By the American Chinchilla Rabbit Breeders Association, 1925
Medium length and chubby. Points 10—cuts 1 to 5.
Firm in flesh, bright, smooth, glossy coat, free from moult. Points 10—cuts 1 to 5.
Medium size, carried erect, evenly ticked and to match the body in color, disqualify large like those of Giant. Upper part of ear must show a distinct jet black narrow lacing. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
Medium size rather fine, short neck and to match body in color. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
Brown in color, large bright and bold, with alert expression. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
To be straight, of medium bone, the upper part of the feet and the outside of the legs to be ticked with uniform shade of gray to match body as near as possible. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
To resemble the real wild Chinchilla, the whole of the body fur from nape of neck to flanks be interspersed with longer hair of jet black, with regular wavy ticking. The under-color to be slate blue at base; intermediate portion pearl gray, merging into white and slightly tipped with black. Admissible neck fur slightly lighter in color than body, but this is strictly confined to the nape, the chest and flanks to be ticked with uniform shade of pearl gray, but of slightly lighter shade than the body, the color of the belly to be light and dense blue next to the skin. Points 25—cuts 1 to 20.
The hairs to be about 1 inch long and very dense. Points 25—cuts 1 to 20.
Underneath white; top black, with tips of hair white Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
Does 6 to 7 lbs.; bucks 5½ to 6½, disqualify 1 lb. either way Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
White patches on body, nose or feet, lop ears, crooked feet, wry or fully side carried tail; too light in color or mixed with brown, or brown patches, white toe nails or any other than brown eyes. Reject energetically all rabbits resembling Giants and any other general disqualifications now recognized by the American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association.
Standard weights for senior specimens as above. For Class A Registrations. Registration weights. (See weights above.) Juniors can be registered in Class B only, but can be transferred to Class A later on if possessing quality required for this Class Registration.
The Heavyweight Chinchilla Rabbit
As Adopted at The Colorado Springs Convention 1925. By The American Chinchilla Rabbit Breeders Association as a Proposed or Working Standard
To be compact, conforming as near as possible to that of the lightweight Chinchilla. The back to form a slight, gradual arch, beginning at the base of the ears and extending to the tail. Points 10—cuts 1 to 5.
To be medium full from top to bottom, with well-filled face and jaw. Neck as short as possible. Dew-lap medium in size. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
As dark a brown as possible, large, round and bold. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
Five inches in length, heavy set, carried erect and close together. Evenly ticked and to match the body in color. Upper part of ear must show a distinct jet-black narrow lacing. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
The legs to be straight and of medium bone. The upper part of the feet and the outside of the legs, to be ticked with a uniform shade to match body as near as possible. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
To resemble the real wild Chinchilla, the whole of the body fur from nape of neck to flank to be interspersed with longer hair of jet-black, with regular wavy ticking. The under color to be slate blue at base; intermediate portion pearl gray, merging into white and slightly tipped with black. Admissible neck fur slightly lighter in color than body, but this is strictly confined to the nape, the chest and the flanks to be ticked with uniform shade of pearl gray, but of slightly shade than the body. The color of the belly to be light and dense blue next to the skin. Points 25—cuts 1 to 20.
On body to be at least one inch in length, very dense and of fine texture. Points 25—cuts 1 to 20.
Underneath white. Top black, interspersed with white hairs. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
Bucks. 9 pounds; does, 10 pounds. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3. CONDITION
Firm in flesh, bright, smooth, glossy coat, free from moult. Points 10—cuts 1 to 5.
White patches on body, nose or feet, lop ears, crooked feet, wry or fully side carried tail; too light in color or mixed with brown, or brown patches, white toe nails or any other than brown eyes. Reject energetically all rabbits resembling Flemish in type and any other general disqualifications now recognized by the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders’ Association except those expressly provided for in above standard.
Any sound color, as free from white ticking as possible. The body color over the ears, cheeks and body in the rear of the saddle line down the hind legs to the feet stops should, in the Blacks, Blues and Steels be clear, deep and uniform throughout. In the Tortoise to be a bright orange shading to a darker color on ears and loins. The body color should be free from white hairs mixed in, or running into the body color The saddle, blaze and feet stops to be white. Points 10—cuts 1 to 3.
The white portion of the rabbit, which embraces chest, throat, front legs and body, starting clear of the front legs in the rear of them and running to the ears. The line where the saddle joins the body color should be a perfect circle around the body. Points 20—cuts 1 to 5.
The white portion of the head. It should be wedge shaped covering the nose, whisker beds and tapering up to the ears, running between same in a very narrow line, and entirely dividing each cheek and ear and joining the white portion known as the saddle.
Cheeks to run to whisker bed and be round, but not touch. Points 15—cuts 1 to 5.
Ears and cheeks of the body color, ears erect, of solid color with no white about the base except the blaze and not to be over four inches in length. Points 20—cuts 1 to 5.
Hind feet to have white markings from the toes to a point one and one-half inches from them up the leg. They should be clean cut and even on both feet.
Cheeks to run to whisker bed and be round, but not tough. Points 15—cuts 1 to 5.
Should be hazel in blacks. In the other colors they should match the body color as nearly as possible. They should be free from spots
on the iris, or from discoloration known as “wall eyed.” They should be clear and bold. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
To weigh under 5 pounds, cobby in shape and compact in form and limb. Points 10—cuts 1 to 5.
Flesh firm and solid. Fur very close and shining, to be even, In good condition and free from moult. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
If over 6 pounds in weight. Large and unsightly patch on body color in the white and where extending below knee, or white in the body color. If body is attached to limb at all, to be severely cut. If patch is inconspicious, cut heavily. For all specks, wall eyes, blindness and flesh spots in body color.
NOTE—Avoid getting belt too far to the front. This will avoid having belt connect with front legs underneath. Also do not have belt too far back. Two-thirds dark color to one-third white.
Blue, Black tortoise or gray. The marking color to be clean, deep and as near uniform throughout as possible. The fur outside the markings to be white, and the spots and markings as clear cut as possible and free of white hairs mixed or running into the marking color. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
To have the spot on nose of the marking color in the shape of a butterfly which is to be even and uniform, with no white spots within the outline of the butterfly. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
To be bright and bold, surrounded with circles, about the size of a quarter, of the marking color, as near a perfect circle as possible. Points 8—cuts 1 to 3.
To be placed below each eye, about one-half inch in diameter, of the marking color, and placed clear of the butterfly and eye circles. Points 6—cuts 1 to 3.
To be not over 4 inches long, with good carriage, of the marking color clear to the base; free from white hairs. Points 6—cuts 1 to 3.
Remainder of head to be free from spots of the marking color and to be round and shapely. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
To start on top of the neck near base of ears and run in a downward and backward direction towards the loins, starting with one spot and running in two rows, from one-quarter to one-half inch in diameter, uniform as possible on both sides. Points 15—cuts 1 to 5.
Group of spots on loins placed as evenly and uniform as possible on both sides alike. Spots to be clear and distinct, not running in together, and from one-half to three-quarters of an inch in diameter with no plain large patches of white between loin markings and chain markings or the saddle. Points 15—cuts 1 to 5.
A line of the marking color beginning near the base of the ears and running in an unbroken line along top of back to tip of tail. It should be narrow at the start, widening over the rump and narrowing again at the tail. The hairs of the marking color should extend out from the edges, giving line the appearance of a herring bone. Points 14 —cuts 1 to 5.
A small spot of marking color on elbow of each leg. Points 6 -cuts 1 to 3.
Six small teats spots of the marking color; remainder of belly free from marking color, and to be as free of the marking color as possible in crotch of hind legs. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
Weight 6 pounds; firm and in solid flesh, with fur soft and free from moult. Points 10—cuts 1 to 5.
White spot within the butterfly. If weight is over 8 pounds. If totally without any one of the classes of markings called for, as no chain markings, no loin markings, no eye spots or no leg markings When saddle marking, commonly called herring line, lays off center of back.
Cuts; For stray spots. Markings other than teat marks, such patches on belly and in crotch to be cut severely, and if extremely large, to be disqualified.
When break in saddle marking, commonly called hering bone, is 3 inches in length, to be disqualified.
Flemish Giant Standard
As Adopted by The National Federation of Flemish Giant Breeders GENERAL DISQUALIFICATIONS
In all varieties of Flemish the following shall disqualify.
1.Specimen showing disease of any kind such as ear canker, snuffles, slobbers, pot belly, vent disease, mange, skin disease. sore hocks, abscesses, etc.
2.Patches of hair removed showing distinct spots as if off colored hair had been removed.
3.Patches of color foreign to that called for.
4.Lop ears, or side carried ears.
5.Moon or unmatched eyes. Blind in one or both eyes
6.Ears under 5½ inches long.
7. Crooked or deformed feet or legs.
8. Broken or crooked bones of any kind or dislocated bones.
9. Over aged specimens in junoir class. A junior should be eight months or under.
10.Ears with a slit 1 inch or more in length or part of ear gone.
11.White bars on front feet that show conspiciously.
12.Screw or wry tail, broken tail, if broken more than one-half inch from end, and permanently set out of line.
Side carried, tail if held firmly to one side; but only to cut in case of partly side carried, or as terms sometimes used nasty-tail carriage, or at times can be carried correctly, other time slightly to one side when hopping or posing.
Tail that has been cut or broken off to extent of one-fourth or more of its natural length.
A small lump or ball on end of tail shall not disqualify but cut severely. Sometimes this lump is caused from freezing or being crushed in hutch door.
Dead bone at end of tail over 1 inch long shall disqualify.
13.White toe nail or nails will disqualify in all colored varieties. All toe nails should match the body color as neary as possible.
14.Broken teeth or toe nails will not disqualify but cut severely. All Flemish should be free from pure white hairs except white.
15.Any Senior Buck under 11 pounds, and any Senior Doe under 12 pounds, any color, will disqualify; except Sandy Grays, Bucks under 12 pounds and Does under 13 pounds will disqualify.
Steel Gray Flemish Standard
The following standards shall govern the placing of awards on Flemish Giant Rabbits at all Shows sanctioned by the Board; also the National Breeders and Fanciers Association of the National Federation of Flemish Giant Breeders. These Standards are based on what would be the perfect Flemish, but If your specimen does not meet with all these qualifications, do not become discouraged but endeavor to attain perfection.
To be large, broad and shapely with uniform color same as body. Eyes to be dark brown and uniform color with reposeful expression. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
As long and powerful as possible. Not flat. With full broad fore and hind quarters. A full plump chest. The body should gracefully arch back from shoulders over hind quarters. Hind quarters to be thick broad and massive as possible in order to obtain weight. Does to have a large, full, uniform, even-carried dewlap. Points 15—cuts 1 to 5.
To be as large as possible, and of powerful, massive build, but in proportion throughout. Points 15—cuts 1 to 5.
Bucks shall weigh 13 pounds or more; Doe 15 pounds or over, and
as much more as possible. Cut 5 points for each pound under weight Points 10—cuts 1 to 5.
Shall be uniform dark steel gray throughout, with even uniform wavy ticking over whole body. Head, ears, chest, feet and legs, except under belly and under tail which shall be as near white as possible All Steels to be as free from brassiness as possible. Free from white hairs. Points 25—cuts 1 to 10.
Long, strong, thick and erect. Well set on with a heavy, stocky base. Color uniform same as body. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
Strong, straight, large and powerful. Color to be as near that of body as possible and free from sandiness or bars. Points 15—cuts 1 to 5.
A full, even coat, glossy, full of life and brightness. Not dead or lifeless. Firm, solid flesh, fur to be close and soft, free from moult Points 10—cuts 1 to 5.
Light Gray Flemish
To be as great as possible, with bucks 13 pounds and over and does 15 pounds and over.
Points 25, and cuts 10 points for each pound under weight.
To be an even light gray, as free from sand or reddish brown as possible. (Steel Gray to be disqualified in this variety.) Color to be even over entire body, except under tail and belly, which should be white. Free from white hairs. Points 25—cuts 1 to 10.
Large, broad and shapely. Eyes dark, uniform and of reposeful expression. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
Long, thick, strong and erect, and of color to match body; with strong stocky ear base. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
Large, long, good shape, with broad hind quarters and chest does to have evenly carried dewlap, well developed. Points 15—cuts 1 to 5
Straight, strong and powerful. Color to match body, uniform as possible, free from white bars or shadow bars as possible. Points 10cuts 1 to 3.
Fur to be close and soft. Flesh firm and solid, free from moult. Stomach shapely and not potty. Points 15—cuts 1 to 10.
Sandy Gray Flemish Giant
To be as great as possible, with bucks 15 pounds and over and does 17 pounds and over.
Points 35; cuts 5 points for each pound under weight.
Color to be of sandy gray with uniform ticking over entire body except under tail and belly, which should be white. The word sandy gray relative to color means a pearl gray color stained with brassiness, sandiness or brownish cast. The animal with the most uniformity of color over entire body given preference—not smudgy or patchy. A clean light gray or steel grav disqualified in this class Points 10—cuts 1 to 5.
Long, broad and shapely. Eyes dark, large and bold. Color of head same as body color. Points 10—cuts 1 to 5.
Long, broad and heavy with good carriage. Color same as head and body color, to have heavy ear base, ears well set on, and not less than 6 inches long. Points 10—cuts 1 to 5.
Straight, long and heavy boned. Color same as body color. Slight cut for off-colored legs and feet. Shadow bars no disqualification. Points 10—cuts 1 to 5.
Long as possible with broad front and hind quarters with slight taper to front (not wedge shape), nicely arched back—not flat. Does to have evenly carried dewlap, well developed. Points 15—cuts 1 to 5.
Fur to be short and close, free from moult. Flesh firm and solid. Stomach shapely and not potty. Points 10—cuts 1 to 5.
Disqualifications same as other varieties of Flemish.
Black Flemish Giants
To be large, broad and shapely, with uniform solid black color, same as body. Eyes to be dark and uniform, color with reposeful expression. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
As large and powerful as possible, not flat, with full broad fore and hind quarters. A full, plump chest. The body should gracefully arch back from shoulder over hind quarters. Hind quarters to be as thick and massive as possible. Does to have large, full, even carried dewlap. Points 15—cuts 1 to 5.
To be as large as possible and of powerful massive build, but in proportion throughout. Points 15—cuts 1 to 5.
Bucks shall weigh 13 pounds or more; does 15 pounds or more and as much more as possible. Points 10—cuts 1 to 5.
Shall be uniform solid black throughout, without ticking, stray hairs or brownish cast. Brownish casts and white hairs will cut, but not disqualify unless conspicious. Points 25—cuts 1 to 10.
Long, strong, thick and erect, well set on with a heavy stocky base, uniform solid black to match body. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
Strong, straight, large and powerful, color solid black to match body. Points 15—cuts 1 to 5.
A full even coat, glossy, full of life and brightness, not dead or dull, firm solid flesh, fur to be close and soft, free from moult Points 10—cuts 1 to 5.
White Flemish Giants
To be large, broad and shapely, with uniform solid white color same as body. Eyes to be pink with reposeful expression. Points 5— cuts 1 to 3.
Long, strong, thick and erect, well set on with a heavy stocky base, uniform solid white to match body. Ears to be 5½ inches long, or more in proportion to body. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
As large and powerful as possible, not flat, with full broad fore and hind quarters. A full plump chest. The body should gracefully arch back from shoulders over hind quarters. Hind quarters to be thick and massive as possible. Does to have large, full, even carried dewlap Points 15—cuts 1 to 5.
To be as large as possible but in proportion throughout. Points 15— cuts 1 to 5.
Bucks should weigh 13 pounds or more; does 15 pounds or more, and as much more as possible. Points 10—cuts 1 to 5.
Strong, straight, large and powerful. Color pure white to match body. Points 10—cuts 1 to 5.
Shall be a uniform pure white throughout, without ticking, stray hairs or yellowish cast, and of fine texture. Points 20—cuts 1 to 10.
A full even coat, glossy, full of life and brightness, not dead or dull, firm solid flesh, fur to be close and soft, free from moult. Points 20—cuts 1 to 5.
Blue Flemish Giants
To be large, broad and shapely, with uniform solid blue color, same as body. Eyes to be blue with reposeful expression. Points 5— cuts 1 to 3.
Long, strong, thick and erect, well set on with a heavy stocky base, uniform solid blue to match body. Ears to be inches long or more in proportion to body. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
As large and powerful as possible, not flat, with full broad fore and hind quarters. A full plump chest. The body should gracefully arch back from shoulders over hind quarters. Hind quarters to be thick and massive as possible. Does to have large, full, even carried dewlap. Points 15—cuts 1 to 4.
To be as large as possible and of powerful, massive build, but in proportion throughout. Points 15—cuts 1 to 5.
Bucks shall weigh 13 pounds or more; does 15 pounds or more, and as much more as possible. Points 10—cuts 1 to 5.
Strong, straight, large and powerful. Color solid blue to match body. Points 10—cuts 1 to 5.
Shall be solid blue throughout, without ticking, stray hairs or brownish casts. Brownish casts and white hairs will cut, but not disqualify unless conspicuous. Points 20—cuts 1 to 10.
A full even coat, glossy, full of life and brightness, not dead or dull. Firm solid flesh, fur to be close and soft, free from moult. Points 20—cuts 1 to 5.
Havana Rabbit Club Standards, as Adopted at Colorado Springs Convention 1925 By Havana Specialty Club
A rich, bright brown all over; as free from other color and tints as possible.
Undercoat a pale slate nearest the skin, surface color to run as deep toward skin as possible. Points 30—-cuts 1 to 10.
Body compact with broad haunches. Points 15—cuts 1 to 5.
Head rather short and narrow with full cheeks. Broader in bucks than does. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
Weight when full grown about six pounds. Points 10—cuts 1 to 5,
Four inches in length, fine in substance, straight and carried up-right. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
Very slender and straight with brown toe nails. Points 5—cuts 1 to 3.
Large, the color of the fur, showing a red light in the pupil having a soft gentle expression. Points 5—cuts 1 to 2.
Shall be short, fine and silky. Points 20—cuts 1 to 10.
Healthy clean and firm in flesh. Points 5—cuts 1 to 2.
Dewlaps cut severely. White hairs cut severely in all specimens DISQUALIFICATIONS
Weight under four and one half pounds (4½) and over seven pounds (7) in seniors.
Ears over four and one half inches (4½) In length. Other than brown toe nails. Any patch of color other than brown. Disease of any nature. All general disqualifications. Registration weight four (4) pounds and over.
White, with marking colors a rich, velvety black.
Ears, short, tapering, and well set on.
Points............15Cuts........... 1to7
Nose, even and well up between eyes.
Points......... 15Cuts............1to7
Front feet, long, slender and markings well on.
Hind feet, to correspond, markings well up hocks.
Points...........25Cuts............1 to 10
Eyes, bold, bright, pink.
Tail, neat, black.
Shape, snaky, body round—not poddy or fat.
coat, short, fine, and pure white, except ears, nose, feet and tail.
Points...............5Cuts........._.......1 to 3
Weight, 4 pounds.
Condition, soft, clean, fiery, smooth coat and free from moult.
Disqualify 5 pounds or over.
NOTE—The color of the markings should be a rich, velvety black. The more dense the color the better. The markings should be on the nose ears, feet and tail. The nose marking should be large and well rounded. It should come well up to the face, between the eyes, and be clean cut and distinct all around. It should be dense all over. Many fail on the sides of the nose marking, the color being weak on the edges. The ears should be entirely black and well covered with fur. They should be short and neat, tapering to the tips. They should be set fairly close together, and not carried apart. The fore feet should be black right to the top of the legs and they should be cut clean there. The higher the markings comes up the leg the better. The same remarks apply to the hind feet. The tail should also be black. The eye required is a pink one, as bright and bold as possible, with no smut or dirty color of hair around the eye.
In shape, the Himalayan should be snaky. A short, cobby rabbit is not desirable. At the same time, a big specimen is not the thing to aim for. While it must be snaky, it should also be small and neat. The long, snaky bodied rabbit shows its markings off to much greater advantage than does a short, cobby one. The coat is white except on the markings, and it must be pure in color and free from stains of any description.
Imperial Blues
Dark blue uniform color throughout the body.
Body color.
Points......... 15Cuts.............1to5
Head, chest and ear color.
Points...........10Cuts....—......._.l to 3
In appearance it slightly resembles the Belgian, having shorter and heavier bones.
Seven pounds.
FEET AND LEGS Medium length, straight and long.
Points___________2Cuts...._.......½ to 1
Color solid and matching body color.
Points...........3Cuts......—½ to 1½
Head ,medium length and narrow, color to match body color. Eyes, large and bold and match body color. Ears about 4½ inches long, rounded tips and set close at base.
Points.........28Cuts...........1 to 15
Flesh to be firm and solid, fur long and soft.
Points 17Cuts...........1 to 10
Over 7 pounds.
NOTE—The color of the Blue Imperial should be an even shade of dark blue throughout, fur soft and bright, and a trifle longer than the other short haired rabbits. The eyes should be large and deep blue in color. The ears should be 4½ inches long, and rounded at the tips. They should be carried erect and well together. Size about 7 pounds They should be shorter in limb than the Belgian Hare, but should slightly resemble Belgian Hare in type.
Or an unequal distribution of the color bands.
Points._...........30Cuts........... 1 to 10
Distinct and shiny, from cream and egg gold to a brick red.
Points.......... 20Cuts............ 1to5
Rather short and thick set with strong limbs, weigh about 8 pounds Points................20Cuts............1to5
Undercolor to match body and spotted over with black patches Points................10Cuts............1to3
To be thick and even.
Points..........10Cuts.....—_____1 to 3
The Japanese Rabbit’s color is intended to represent the rising sun and has circles running around the body at irregular intervals; the bands forming the circles are not regular in size or width; the circles represent the sun’s rays and the undercolor the sun.
Defects are unclear color of bands showing a mottled appearance. Undercolor fading out till it shows pure white spots.
Lops (French)
Shall be 16 to 18 inches from tip to tip.
Points............10Cuts.............1 to 5
Width at widest part should be at least 5 inches.
Points...........10Cuts.......... _1to5
Should be stout, strong, heavy, well rounded and free from any blemish.
Large and bold.
Points.......... f.Cuts.............1to3
Heavy and straight.
Points—..........10Cuts .1to5
Straight and of medium length.
Points............5Cuts............ 1to3
Heavy fore and full hind quarters. Back well arched. Bucks 10 pounds and over. Does 11 pounds and over.
Points...........35Cuts............1 to 10
Points........... 5Cuts.......... 1to3
Flesh firm and solid and altogether of a healthy appearance.
Points.......... 10Cuts........... 1to3
Earage less than 14 inches, tip to tip, and less than 4 inches wide. Ears not suspended evenly from the head, such as one ear down and one or part of an ear in any other position except hanging down.
If the specimen has control of one or both ears, so that he or she is able to raise them.
MEASUREMENT—The measurements of the ears on lops to be taken from the extreme end of one ear straight across the head to the extreme end of the other ear, stretching slightly along the rule; and the width of the ear is to be measured at the widest part and should measure at least one-fourth the length, tip to tip.
COLOR—Lops are bred in seifs and broken colors, the broken colors being any of the colors in conjunction with white. In the broken colors the markings are very important, the saddle and ears being of a darker color; also the specimen should have a good even butterfly on the nose and a dark colored circle around each eye. The saddle should be of a solid color free from spots and the saddle color connecting the head by two lines of color or large dots. The feet and legs to be pure white, although an uneven spot on each elbow is not objectionable but adds to the beauty.
Lops (English)
Should be 18 inches or over from tip to tip. The length and width to strive for is 26 inches long by 6 1/4 inches wide.
Points..........25Cuts...........1 to 10

Width at widest point should be at least one-fourth of the length of the ears tip to tip.
Points.........—20Cuts.............1 to 10
Should be strong, stout and free from any blemishes.
Points____________10Cuts_____________1 to 5
Large and bold.
Points............. 5Cuts____________ 1to3
Medium heavy and straight.
Points______________5Cuts_____________ 1to3
Straight and of good length.
Points..............5Cuts............ 1to3
Heavy fore and full hind quarters with back well arched.
Points_____________ 5Cuts____________ _1to3
Bucks 10 pounds and over Does 11 pounds and over.
Points......... 5Cuts........ 1to3
Points_________10Cuts......... 1to5
Flesh firm and altogether of a healthy appearance; fur glossy and full of sheen.
Points........ 10Cuts...........1to5
Earage less than 16 inches, tip to tip, or a width less than 4 inches at the widest part. Ears not suspended evenly from the head, such as one ear down and part of an ear in other position except hanging down. If the specimen has control of one or both ears, so that he or she is able to raise them.
MEASUREMENT—The measurement of the ears on lops is to be taken from the extreme of one ear straight across the head to the extreme end of the other ear, stretching slightly along the rule; and the width of the ear is to be measured at the widest part and should measure at least one-fourth the length, tip to tip.
COLOR—Lops are bred in seifs and broken colors, the broken colors being any of the colors in conjunction with white. In the broken colors the markings are very important, the saddle and ears being of the darker color; also the specimen should have a good even butterfly on the nose with a dark colored circle around each eye. The saddle should be of a solid color free from spots and the saddle color connecting the head by two lines of color or large dots. The feet and legs to be pure white, although an even spot in each elbow is not objectionable, but adds to the beauty.
Lilac Rabbit
Color—An even pinky dove color to the root of the fur..25 Points
Coat—Exquisitely soft, fine and dense lying close to the body
not a fly back coat...................................25“
Shape—Compact, cobby, broad haunches............._...........15“
Eyes—Color to match fur, glowing ruby red in the dark, large
and full ......... _.................................10“
Head—Short, but not coarse, broader in bucks than in does....5
Ears—Well furred, moderately short and straight.............. 5 “
Legs -Short and straight, with color of body carried to toes. 5 Points
Weight—Not to exceed seven pounds.................... 5
Condition—In goo:l health and firm in flesh.......... 5
White patches on the body. Eyes which do not glow ruby red in the shade.
White hairs or eyes which do not match the body color; brown tint on the feet.
New Zealands
Standard as adopted by The American Federation of New Zealand
The foundation of a breed is its type, and the basis of type con siders both size and shape as being its components.
The ideal of the New Zealand type has been that of a specimen presenting a type that is a medium between that of the Flemish Giants on the one side and the Rufus Red Belgian on the other side.
In this conception the extreme raciness of the Rufus Red as well as its fineness of bone are undesirable and to be eliminated. On the other side the extreme massiveness and length of the Flemish Giant is undesirable and to be eliminated.
In general appearance the ideal type New Zealand should present a rather close coupled, compact frame that is well filled and free from over fatness.
The application of this conception for the specimen as a whole and for its parts, by use of the various measurements laid down in this text and shown in the drawings published in connection herewith.
Ideal total length of rabbit from end of nose to base of tail to be 19½ inches for does and 18½ inches for bucks; said line to be determined by caliper measurement.
The Ideal New Zealand Red Color is here set forth and described as being a rich reddish buff, as deep in tone as possible, but not so deep as to lose the buff element and become a deep mahogany red.
As a fine analogy in animal life, to be used as a basis of comparison, the sorrel red horse is offered as nature’s nearest likeness.
In its general appearance this color scheme should be free from stray white hairs, light or dark ticking, frosty or smudgy effects, and
as near the same shade over all surfaces as possible, due allowance be-ing made for a much lighter shade of color on the belly, over the posterior surface of the thighs, on the flanks and for all surfaces where the skin is made free to permit motion of joints.
The coat should be even, smooth and glossy; the flesh should be firm and solid; the health the best possible.
Particular Considerations
Type—Head to be medium full from top to bottom with well filled face and jaws, presenting a slight curvature between the eyes and nose, but not so marked as to resemble a fish hook appearance.
Length from end of nose to a point at right angles with a line drawn from the center of the base of the ears, to be 4½ inches in bucks and slightly longer in does.
Distance across the head between eyes to be 2 inches for does and 2 1/4 inches for bucks.
Points allowed, 5; cuts from ½ to the full limit.
Color—Rich Reddish Buff, as evenly spread as possible over head and face, making due allowance for slightly lighter shade along line of jaws, and for small creamy eye circles, and for creaminess under the jaws, and a lighter shade between the ears, all of which are inherent points of weakness and to be cut with less severity. Points allowed, 3; cuts from ½ to the full limit.
Type—Medium large, bright and expressive.
Points allowed, 3; cuts ½ to the full limit.
Color—Hazel. Points allowed, 1; cuts from ½ to full limit.
Type—Medium full, thick and erectly carried; ideal length to be 5 inches. Points allowed, 8; cuts ½ to the full limit.
Color—Rich Reddish Buff; as free as possible from ear lacing.
Points allowed, 5; cuts from ½ to the full limit.
Head, ears and eyes should give the specimen an alert, intelligent expression.
Type—Medium fullness, medium width, medium boned, rather strong and short coupled. Color to be as near that of other sections as possible, with allowance made for lighter shade on back of neck and on the under side.
Does to hae evenly carried and medium sized dewlap. No measurements or cuts provided for.
Type—Medium fullness, medium width, medium length, giving a rather short, close and compact appearance.
Length from shoulders to hips, 10 inches, for bucks; does, 10½ inches. Width across at shoulders to be 6 inches; at hips, 6½ inches.
Points allowed, 6; cuts from ½ to the full limit.
Color—Rich Reddish Buff, to be as even and uniform over the entire back as it is possible to get it.
Points allowed, 4; cuts from ½ to the full limit.
Type—Medium fullness in appearance; firmly carried, and slightly rounded as they pass from the union with the neck above to the belly below. Average distance of sides from a line at right angles to the back to the surface on which the rabbit rests when properly posed with its front feet extended and its belly resting on the table, to be 5½ inches.
Points allowed, 3; cuts ½ to the full limit.
Color—The Rich Reddish Buff of the back shall be carried well down over the sides and blend with the belly color without any sharp or sudden breaks, there being a gradual change in shade as the belly is approached.
Points allowed, 3; cuts ½ to the full limit.
Type—Medium fullness, firmly carried, slightly oval surface but free from potted appearance, save in the case of nursing and pregnant does, frowhich due allowance should be made.
Average width of belly where it touches the surface on which it rests when the rabbit is posed, 6 inches.
Points allowed, 3; cuts ½ to the full limit.
Color—Rich Reddish Cream, With credit to be given for the closest possible approach to the general color scheme of Rich Reddish Buff. Stray white hairs in this section to be permissible.
Points allowed, 3; cuts from ½ to the full limit, with due allowance being made for the tendency to run to light cream.
Type—Front legs to be of medium fullness, straight and strong, with medium length of 2½ inches from first joint or union with the body to the second joint.
Average circumference of the leg at its smallest point to be 2½ inches with a gradual increase as the leg approaches the body.
Points allowed, 8; cuts from ½ to the full limit.
Color—Rich Reddish Buff, carried well around the limb and blending with the dominant color of the belly at the under and inner side.
Points allowed, 3; cuts from ½ to the full limit.
Type—Medium bone, medium length and size, straight and strong, of even length on both sides.
Length of foot from second joint to the toes to be 6 inches; circumference of foot to be 2 inches.
Points allowed, 2; cuts from ½ to the full limit.
Color—As near that of the general color as possible, free from shadow spots as possible; as free as possible from ticking of any kind; allowance to be made for a slightly lighter shade that is free from shadow bars and spots. Toe nails horn colored.
Points allowed, 2; cuts form ½ to the full limit.
Type—Full, firm, powerful, well rounded over the back hips.
Length from hips to tail to be 5 inches.
Hind legs to be full, firm, stout and straight. Length of leg from body to second joint, 7 inches.
Circumference of leg at its smallest point to be 3 inches, and to rapidly increase as the leg approaches the body.
Points allowed, 8; cuts from ½ to the full limit.
Color—Same as the general body color and carried well over the hind parts to the tail; well around legs to blend with under color of their inner surface, with due allowance being made for a lighter tendency at the under margin of the thighs.
Points allowed, 3; cuts from ½ to the full limit.
Type—Full, strong and straight, with bone larger than that of front feet. Length from second joint to toes to be 5 inches. Circumference of foot just below the second joint to be 3½ inches.
Points allowed, 2; cuts from ½ to the full limit.
Color—As near the general body color as possible, with full credit for Rich Reddish Cream, and reasonable credit for cream according to its distinctness. Toe nails, horn colored.
Points allowed, 2; cuts from ½ to the full limit.
Type—Straight, medium in size and length, erectly carried over the hind parts and free from crooks and twists of any kind.
Points allowed, 2; cuts from ½ to the full limit.
Color—Upper surface to be same as body color; under surface to be as near that of other under parts as possible; but not to be cut for white.
Points allowed, 1; cuts from ½ to the full limit.
The fur coat should be clean, free from hutch stains, smooth, even and glossy, with due allowance being made for nursing does, and moult-ing specimens.
Points allowed, 5; cuts from ½ to the full limit.
The flesh should be firm and solid as determined by the weight of the specimen as compared with its size.
Points allowed, 5; cuts from ½ to the full limit.
Should be free from all signs of sickness or disease.
Three and three-fourth pounds at two months of age.
Five and one-half pounds at three months of age.
Seven pounds at four months of age.
Seven and one-half pounds at five months of age.
Eight pounds at six months of age.
Eight and one-half pounds for bucks at eight months of age.
Nine pounds for does at eight months of age.
Nine pounds for bucks and ten pounds for does at maturity.
Standard Disqualification
Crooked front or hind feet or legs; crooked spines; wry or twisted necks; tails that are crooked or have deformed bones; ears that fall below the horizontal line of the head as drawn through it from ear to ear; ears that are less than 4½ inches long; eye lids that turn either in or out upon themselves; blindness of one or both eyes; moon eyes; absence of ear, tail, toe nail or any evidence that a possible blemish that would have disqualified has been removed; any other anatomical or bodily deformity.
Mandolin, Flemish, Belgian or other type than that described in this standard. Senior specimens that are over two inches under or over the standard type measurements.
Senior bucks under 8 pounds, or does under 9 pounds, all other specimens that fall under the standard weight of the class in which they are judged.
Specimens that have small Belgian like bones but are hog fat shall be a subject for disqualification; pot bellied specimens in other than pregnant and nursing does. Specimens showing signs of disease of any kind, either local or constitutional, shall be disqualified from contests in the show room and from the right of being registered.
White eye circles; eyes other than the standard calls for; white bars on either front or hind feet; positive white on belly; inside of legs; or other distinct and positively white patches on any part other than under side of tail; white toe nails; light or dark ticking when sufficient to produce distinct smudgy or frosty effects; a general marked departure from the standard color to the extent of being a real mahogany red one one side or a very pale yellowish shade on the other side shall disqualify the specimen that shows it.
Suggestions for Applying the Standard
No specimen should be cut less than one-half a point in any section In which a defect is found; they may be cut to the full number of points provided for in the section in relation to either type or color.
Seniors that are over or under the standard type measurements should be cut according to the diviation, this rule to apply to the specimen as a whole and to each of its sections.
Ear lacing shall cut in proportion to its extent and distinctness.
Light or dark ticking shall be cut severely whenever found.
Stray white hairs on other than belly and inside of legs or on hind feet shall be severely cut in proportion to their extent.
Shadow spots on the front feet or other parts where solid color has so far been perfected shall be cut according to their extent.
Hutch stains should be cut in proportion to the effect they have on the specimen and its general looks.
Poor condition of coat shall be cut according to the season of the cut in proportion to its severity, with due allowance being made for moulting specimens and nursing does, in which case they deserve a reasonable benefit of the doubt.
Decision of Contests
Rule One—Where two specimens are competing, one of which has poor type and good color, while the other has good type and poor color the one having the best type shall win.
Rule Two—In contests between specimens that are equal in type; the one having the best color shall win.
Rule Three—In contests between specimens that are equal in color the one having the best type shall win.
Rule Four—In contests between specimens that are equal in type and color, the one having the best condition of flesh as determined from weight shall win.
Rule Five—In contests where there is an equality in type, color and condition of flesh the one having the best condition of fur shall win.
Rule Six—The above rules are to be applied to senior and six to eight month classes.
Rule Seven—In contests between juniors, the one that shows the most advanced development of good points shall win.
Rule Eight—Baby specimens shall be judged according to their promises of developing good points.
Scale of Points as Presented in the Text
Sections Total LengthType 10Color Condition Fur 5 Flesh 5
Head . .._ 53
Eyes . . 31
Ears _ 85
Back 6 4
Sides .33
Belly .... 33
Front Quarters ... 83
Front Feet ..... 22
Hind Quarters 83
Hind Feet 29
Tail..... 21
Total6030 5 5
New Zealand Whites
By request of breeders of the New Zealand White, that were present at the 1921 Convention of the American Federation of New Zealand Breeders, the following standard is adopted for the variety.
Total assignments made: Type, 60; Color, 30; Condition, 10; Equals, 100.
The type, weights, and points on condition for the New Zealand whites to be the same as herein given for the New Zealand Red.
Being a true Albino the New Zealand White calls for a pure color in all sections covered by fur.
The eyes should be pink in color.
Spots or patches of color other than white shall disqualify.
A rich, pure glossy white, entirely free from hairs of any other color.
Points..........15Cuts..........1 to 5
To be small, neat, compact and elert. To weigh 3 to 3½ pounds. Points...............25Cuts___________.l to 10

Short, very fine, close and silky.
Points____________20Cuts............1 to 10
Short, fine, well rounded and covered with fine fur. To set close together, touching each other all the way, without showing the flanges.
Short as possible.
Points.... _....l5Cuts__________ 1to5
Large, bold and blood red.
Points......... 15Cuts......... 1to5
Flesh firm, in healthy condition, with fur of good quality, free from moult or stains.
Points......... 10Cuts...........1to5
If weight is over 4 pounds. If eyes are any other color but red. If hairs of any color hut white are in the fur. If ears are over 3 inches in length.
The Rhinelander Rabbit
The color must be white ground with yellow and black markings, the white very clean, the yellow from a creamy yellow to intense golden yellow of bricky red .
Body well knitted together, not too slender, and weight 7 pounds to 9 pounds.
Coat thick, soft, set close and the shorter the hair the better.
Eyes large, clear chestnut brown in color.
Ears V-shaped and not longer than 4 3/4 inches and no white.
Markings are creamy yellow to brick red, butterfly nose, one-half
smut black, other half red, reverse color for eye circles; again reverse color for cheek spots; reverse for ears.
Saddle must be without interruption, herring boned, and at least 9½ inches long, black, red and yellow and no white.
Ears striped with same colors, well defined edge and no white.
Markings on sides for show purposes, should be as well defined as possible in regular formation.
Build of body and ears.......................... 20 Points
Regular marking of spots ______________________30“
Size ........ ................................10“
Hair and Color .......... ......................30“
Condition ________ _____________________________10“
Total __________________________________100
Absence of butterfly.
White in butterfly.
Irregular marking.
Irregularities in upper part of ear. Eyes different color.
Madagascar color.
Presence of chain.
Silver, Gray, Fawn and Brown
Under color in grays, a rich deep blue black; in Fawns, a bright orange; in Browns, a deep chestnut.
Points...........25Cuts____________1 to 10
Silvering, evenness throughout the entire body.
Points...........20Cuts------------1 to 7½
Ticking distinct, sharp, bright and evenly distributed.
Bold and bright.
Small, neat and erect.
Thick, short and even length.
Points-----------10Cuts_______ - 1 to 5
Neat, plump, with a good loin and weighing about 6 pounds. Points-----------------15Cuts.......... 1to5
Neat and compact, healthy appearance.
When weighing over 7 pounds.
The ideal color in a Gray. (White and Black). The white is always referred to as the silvering. The black being termed the color. At the tip of the fur the color should be a rich blue black, with plenty of life and lustre in it.
The under color (when the fur is blown aside), should be of a blue shade and extend as far towards the roots of the fur as possible. Be sure not to get or encourage an under color or pale, smoky shade, or a fur which is almost white next to the skin. There should be no brown or rusty tinge on the feet or body.
Fawns—Should be of a deep, bright orange shade, extending as far down towards the skin as possible. The color should extend over the body, head, ears, feet and tail. There should be no suspicion of brickiness about the color of a Silver Fawn, neither should it have a gray tinge.
Browns—There are really four colors instead of two. The essential color is the deep, bright chestnut and should extend as far down towards the skin as possible. The bottom color should be a slaty blue, deep and bright, and should not show anywhere except in the bottom half of the fur. Next comes the silvering or white hairs, which should be evenly distributed among the colored ones. Then comes the ticking which should be even all over the rabbit. On the surface of the fur, brown, white and black must be in evidence and should be in equal proportion.
Silver Blue Rabbit
Color—The Silver Blue Rabbit should be a deep rich blue color evenly silvered throughout similar to the Silver Gray.
Under Color—Deep blue down to skin.
Type—Same as Silver Gray.
Eyes—Blue Nails—Blue.
Color and under color_____________________.____ 25 Points
Evenness of silvering throughout_______________20"
Sharp, even, bright ticking....... . _____ ____15“
Short full coat________________________________15“
Ears, neat and well set on, bold bright eyes___ 10
Condition and shape____________________________ 15
Silver Black Giants
To be large, broad and shapely, with uniform color to match body not solid black. Eyes to be dark and uniform color with reposeful expression.
Points—..........„.5Cuts__________1 to 3
Long, strong, thick and erect, well set on with a heavy, stocky base, uniform to match body. Ears to be 5½ inches or more in proportion to body.
Points..............5Cuts _ ---------1 to 3
As large and powerful as possible, not flat, with full broad fore and hind quarters. A full plump chest. The body should gracefully arch back from shoulders over hind quarters. Hind quarters to be as thick and massive as possible. Does to have full large, even carried dewlap.
Points............ 10Cuts........... _1to5
To be as large as possible and of powerful, massive build but in proportion throughout.
Points........... 15Cuts............ 1to5
Bucks shall weigh 11 pounds or more; does 12 pounds or over and as much more as possible.
Points............ 10Cuts.............1to5
Strong, straight, large and powerful. Color to match body.
Points..............10Cuts.....—......,_1 to 5
White hairs must be evenly distributed over entire body, chest, head, feet, ears and tail with evenness of silver throughout.
Points............25Cuts............1 to 10
A full even coat, glossy, full of life and brightness, not dead or dull, firm solid flesh, fur to be close and soft, free from moult.
Points............20Cuts............1 to 5
Bucks under 9 pounds.
Does under 10 pounds.
Ears under 5½ inches.
All other general disqualification.
Sitka Rabbit
Type—Shape fairly compact; not quite so long in body as the Giant Beveren; fine in bone, slight mandolin arch to back and stout hind quarters. Dewlap small as pos-
sible in does; none in bucks......................... 20 Points
Color—Glossy jet black on surface going well down into he
fur; under coat dark blue............................ 25
Fur—About 1½ inches long, very short, silky, lustrous and
dense —......—...—..............-...—--------------- 25
Head—Very bold and broad in bucks; comparatively small
in does, set on short neck...... .. ________________ 5“
Eyes—bright dark brown, rather almond shape and not too
prominent ........._.............................. 5
Ears—Well furred, and rather small in proportion to the rabbit. To be carried in a narrow V. The large spoon shaped Flemish type of ear to be avoided................. 5
Feet—Fine in bone, legs straight, fore legs short, black toe
nails ____________________________________________ 5
Adult—Weight 8 to 10 pounds______________________________10“
White hairs on body; short fly-back coat.
Faults—Thin or harsh coat, rusty color, excessively pale undercoat. Flat side or lanky shape, small white tip—nose or toes. These are to be discouraged, but are not as serious faults as bad color or quality of coat on body.
NOTE—The breed is to be judged primarily for fur. The difference between it and all other black breeds being in the exceptional length and silkiness of the fur which must be insisted on.
Tans, Blacks and Blues
Black or blue, dense and sound even color.
Points....._.....10Cuts...........„.l to 5
Tan, deep, rich golden color.
Points......... 15Cuts.......... 1to5
Large and bright, hazel in black; blue in blue.
Points..—........ 5Cuts..............1to3
Short, color to match back.
Points...........10Cuts......... lto5
To weigh from four to five pounds; cobby in shape and compact in form and limb.
Points------------ 10Cuts1 to 5
Triangle (just back of the ears).
Fore feet.
Points___________ 5Cuts........ _._1to3
Hind feet.
Chest, flank and, belly.
Points-------------10Cuts___________ 1to5
Nostrils, eyes and jowls.
Points............. 5Cuts.............1to5
Ears, outer and inner margins.
Points............5Cuts.......—....1 to 3
Flesh firm and solid. Fur very close and shining; to be even, in good condition and free from moult.
Points............10Cuts----------. .1 to 5
Specimen over 5½ pounds. Putty nose or white toes. Cut for full white hair; if very conspicious, disqualify.
NOTE—The head and face must be black, with a ring of tan around each eye, the saddle, back, rump, sides and body and upper part of tail black, the lower part of the sides and rump is brindled. The nostrils, jowl, chest, belly, flanks, and under part of tail should be rich golden tan, the deeper and brighter the better, but bright it must be. The neck behind the ears should have a rich tan mark extending from the base of the ears to the center and shoulders in the form of a triangle, which is the definition given to this neck marking. The base of the triangle behind the ears should form a junction with the tan of the chest, which should run to meet it. In front of the ears and at the base should be two small tan spots. These should be clear and distinct. The outside of the ears should be black, laced with tan, while the insides should be tan. In the case of Blue and Tan, the word blue must be substituted for black in the above description.
General Disqualifications. Patches of foreign color in solid-colored varieties; white toe nails or nails foreign to body color in solid-colored English.
Any diseased specimen; sow carrying young; cream or white varieties having black ears or feet; rosettes in any part of coat of English breeds. Blind in one or both eyes; deformities, crooked legs, etc.
Cuts. Torn ears or ears containing holes for the purpose of marking, etc, Seniors to be over four months of age and Juniors to be under four months of age. Eye circles and stray colored hair in solid colored breeds.
Abyssinian, Black Abyssinian, Cream Abyssinian, Golden Agouti Abyssinian, Red Abyssinian, Broken Colors Angora (Peruvian Silkies) English, Black English, Blue English, Brindle Englis, Cream English Chocolate English, Dutch English, Broken Colors
English, Golden Agounti
English, Himalayan
English, Red
English, Silver Agouti
English, Tortoise Shell
English, Tortoise Shell and White
English, White
Peruvians, Black
Peruvians, Cream
Peruvians, Red
Peruvians, White
Peruvians, Broken Colors
Broken Colored Abyssinian
Each rosette to raise and radiate evenly all around, with a clearly defined center without break or gap, and to be distributed regularly all over the body; the greater the unmber the better, providing that each is clear and distinct without running into each other.
Points ___________________________________ 25
Short, harsh and wiry in texture, erect mane running down the back from shoulders to rump, and without flatness or softness of any kind; the scruff or collar to stand erect and pass around the shoulder without any break.
Points_____________________________________ 20
Clear and bright and with plenty of lustre.
Points............. .........................— 10
Short and cobby; not flat sided; limbs well formed, and closely set, without any narrowness or snippiness, with plenty of depth to shoulders and hind quarters.
Points .............................—....... 15
Wide, with fair length; nose prominent, with a well developed moustache, covered with harsh, erect coat on cheeks.
Points -----------------------------------15
Large, full and bright.
Coat close and thick, flesh firm and hard.
Points .....................................10
Solid Colored Abyssinians
Rosettes to rise and radiate evenly all around from a clearly defined center, without any break or gap, and to be distributed regularly all over the body, the greater the number the better, providing that each is clear and distinct without running into each other.
Short, harsh and wiry in texture, with erect mane running down the back from shoulders to rump, and without flatness or softness of any kind; the scruff or collar to stand erect and pass down the shoulder without any break.
Coat close and thick, flesh firm and hard.
To be short and cobby, not flat sided; limbs well formed and closely set, without any narrowness, with plenty of depth in shoulders and hind quarters.
Wide with fair length, nose very prominent, with a well develop-ed mustache, covered with harsh, erect coat on cheeks.
Large, full and bright.
Coat close and thick, flesh firm and hard.
Solid Red English
Color—Deep rich red........—.......—...—..—..—...............25
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body medium length........20
Ears—To match body, shapely...........—.. ..............-....15
Eyes—Large and bold...........—— -.......—......-...-.....— .10
Feet—Solid color to match body........ ......................10
Coat—Short and silky..............................................10
Condition ......................................................10
REMARKS: Red should be a deep, rich, red color with feet and ears to match.
Solid Black English
Color—Deep raven, rich black....................................30
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body not too short, medium___25
Coat—Short an silky, free from all corrugations_________________15
Ears—Slightly drooping, not fallen, with good width between them_10
Eyes—Big, bold and clear....._..................................10
Condition ................ _ .......................—-----------10
Solid Cream English
Color—Pure and even.........................—..................30
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body not too short, medium......25
Coat—Short and silky............—...........—...—..........-....15
Ears—Slightly dropped............................—....— —...... 5
Feet—Color to match body...................................—..... 5
Eyes—Large, bold and clear..............-.—............~.......10
Condition—Flesh firm _______________________-..............—...10
REMARKS: A delicate cream is desired, free from a lemon or brass tinge, with feet and ears to match.
Solid White English
Color—Pure and even______________________-.—..—..................20
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body medium length............20
Ears—Shapely, color to match body............-...................-15
Coat—Short and silky.----------------------------------------------10
Eyes—Large, bold and pink------------------------------------------10
Feet —To match body color —.---------------------—----------------10
REMARKS:White ears and feet are essential. Smudge and
black spots will disqualify.
Solid Chocolate English
Color—Deep, rich and even.............—.--------------------------30
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body medium length----------20
Coat—Short and silky________________________—..............-...10
Ears—To match body, shapely............................-.......15
Eyes—Bold and large..........—...........—..-..........—.......- 5
Feet -To match body color---------------------------------------10
Condition______________________—.-................ ....... 10
REMARKS:Chocolates should be a rich, dark chocolate color,
with ears and feet to match.
Solid Blue English
Color—Deep, rich and even...................................._..30
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body medium length.........20
Coat—Short and silky_________________________________________.10
Ears—To match body, shapely..................................15
Eyes—Bold and large ---------------------——------------------ 5
Feet—To match body color...........—.........................10
Condition .......—....—...—------------------------------------10
REMARKS: Blue should be a dark, rich blue, free from rusti-
Solid Cinnamon English
Evenness of ticking on body, chest and feet.................... 30
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body medium length..........20
Eyes ------------------------------------—---------------------10
Coat and Condition __________._________________________________15
REMARKS: Cinnamons should be a cinnamon shade, even and free from eye circles, having even dark ticking all through, with ears and feet to match.
Solid Golden or Silver Agoutis
A Golden Agouti should be of a rich, deep golden hue, with even dark ticking all through, with chest and feet to match. The belly color should be a bright, rich red and as narrow as possible.
A Silver Agouti should be of a bright silver hue, having even dark ticking all through, with chest and feet to match, the belly color to be as narrow’ and near white as possible.
Evenness of ticking on body, chest and feet____________________30
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body not to be too short.._ 20
Eyes __- -________________ ---------------10
Coat and Condition —_— _______________________________________15
Tortoise and White English
Patches—Clean, clear cut and distinct as possible...............25
Equal distribution with uniform placing ..._____________________25
Color—Red, black and white as in standard of these varieties....20
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body not too short..............10
Size—Large, well proportioned...................................... 5
Eyes and Ears------------------------------------------------------ 5
Coat—Short and smooth-------------------------------------------5
REMARKS: Colors should not be intermixed or brindle. Patches to be cut clean and evenly distributed.
Tortoise Shells
Color—Red and black .......................—..........- ..-..._._15
Patches—Clear and distinct .............—...-..... ......... 45
Eyes—'Large, bold and clear-----------------------------------— 10
Coat—Short and silky------------- —...........................—10
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body not too short --------10
Size—Large, well proportioned ................—--------------- 5
Condition—Firm of flesh---------------------------------------5
REMARKS:The colors should be a deep red and black, and
equally distributed in small patches, the smaller and more uniform the better.
Dutch Marked English
Blazed and cheeks .................................................15
Clean neck ______________________________________________________10
Saddle...—............—............—.....—....— ...........— 10
Undercut __________________________ - ---------------------------10
Feet Stops ..................-.................— ------------- 5
Size ——..............-.......-...-—■....................— — 5
Shape—Broad shoulders, roman nose, body not too short.-....... 5
Color ---------------------— —-—- ............................10
Condition ....................................................— 5
REMARKS: The markings to be placed same as the Dutch marked rabbits.
Nose—Markings well carried up to eyes ----------------------------15
Feet—Markings well carried- up — ---------------------------------10
Ears—Black to base ................... ...........................—10
Density of markings -........................................-...20
Purity of white free from brass coloring .........................15
Eyes—Large, bright and reddish color ...............—--------—....—10
Shape—Broad shoulders, roman nose, body not too short--------------10
Condition _____________________________________________—------10
REMARKS: Markings to be placed same as the Himalayan rabbit.
Color—Intermixture of red and black -------------------------------15
Even mixture of colors, clean and distinct________________________45
Eyes—Large and bold .......—..........—----------■ -■.....- 5
Feet and ears match body color —......------------------------------ 5
Shape—Broad shoulders, Roman nose, body not too short-------------10
Condition ........................................................—10
Solid Colored Peruvians
Sweep (rear coat)—Of as uniform length as possible................15
Density of Coat—To be very dense .................................—15
Texture of silkiness of coat......................................15
Side Sweep—Hair to be as long aspossible......................15
Color—To be of a solid color, freefrom off-coloredhairs — —---15
Head Furnishing—Fringe should fall well over the shoulders and
furnished so that it falls in a thick mane .-.....—.....~....-15
Condition ........................... ............................10
Broken Colored Peruvians
Sweep (rear coat)—Of as uniformlength aspossible .............—15
Density of coat—To be very dense------------------------ —15
Texture of silkiness of coat .....................................15
Side Sweep—Hair to be as long as possible .............- ---------15
Color—To be of a solid color, free from stray off-colored hairs .—10
Head Furnishing—Fringe should fall well over shoulders and furnished so that it falls in a thick mane ...............-....—.15
Condition ...................................................—....15
. 5 .10
White toe nails, except when called for. Toe nails in colored varieties not to match body color. Any foreign color in a solid color. Any disease specimen. Cavies showing signs of carrying young.
Slit or torn ears. Ears punched for marking or showing signs of having an ear tag will not be disqualified, but we wish to discourage this habit.
Junior four months or under. Senior over four months of age.
All cavies entered at shows under National rules not specified In standard will not be passed on by the judges.
Broken Colored English Cavy Standards
This committee feels that there should be a standard and a class on Broken Colored English to encourage the improvement in type especially; also the exhibiting of this class by novices. Standards to be as follows:
Color—Any two or more colors. Spots to be as clean cut as possible, free from rough, ragged edges or smudgy or intermingling
Shape—Broad shoulders, short Roman nose, body not too short. High, full crown ....... ........ . _............. —......—..30
Coat—Short and silky---------------------------------------------10
Ears—Slightly drooping, not fallen, with good width between them—10
Eyes—Big, bold and clear .........................—..—...........10
Condition ________________________________________________-______15
Size—Large as possible ......-.—......-....-.........—..—....-10
All the firms represented in the following advertisem*nts we believe to be honest and reliable. We request you to patronize them and show them that we appreciate the support they have extended to us in the issuing of this book.
American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association
Is the best small stock magazine for those who want service—
Is brim full of information for the rabbit and Cavy breeder—
Tells what is taking place in the rabbit industry in every section of the country—
Sec. Weygandt’s association news published every month in this magazine. Subscribe today so you can get the news of your association each month—
Contains a Fox and Fur Farming Department, Pigeon Department, and regular departments devoted to the various breeds of rabbits, as well as instructive articles on all kinds of small stock.
Published Monthly.
Send 10c for sample copy $1.00 Per Year; 3 Years for $2.00
Published By
Lamoni, Iowa
Silver - Leaf Rabbitry
Extra Heavy-weight Quality Stock
Wildcroft Rabbits
H. G. Stadtler
True color bred strain of Grays, not mixed with Blacks, Steels or Blues.
Line bred Grays that haven't thrown one off-color youngster in the past five years.
Sooner or later they practically all come to the Grays for size. Raise Grays and fill this demand. For the Real Big Ones write to
Rio Grande Rabbitry
123 Vassar
Albuquerque,N. M.
Chinchillas Angoras
Breeder of Excellent Flemish Grays, Steeles and Blacks
H. S. PETER R. R. No. 1, Burt, Mich.
Stone Ridge, New York
2087 W. 14th Street CLEVELAND, - OHIO
515 Cherry Street MYERSTOWN, PA.
Ben H. Lester
Breeder & Shipper of
Pedigreed Flemish Giants in
Breeder of
Whites and Creams
29 Highland St. Cambridge, - Mass.
S. L. HOOVER, Marion, Pa. Franklin County
Young Stock for Sale Write Me Your Wants
Write Me Your Wants Satisfaction Guaranteed
S. L. Hoover
English Cavies
Reds, Blacks, Whites and Creams
Breeder and Exhibitor of
Heavy-weight & Pedigree FLEMISH GIANTS Gray and Steel-Gray
Rabbits Weights from
12 to 18 lbs.
W rite for
LEWIS S. J. GRIFFIN, Proprietor 812 East Costella St.Colorado Springs, Colo.
Steel, Sandy, Light Gray, Black, White.
When you want new stock write GRIFFIN.
Best and Most Up-to-Date Obtainable 25 and Duplicate Book form Post-paid, $1.00 100 and Duplicate Book form Post-paid, $2.50
Licensed Judge and Registrar for both RABBITS and CAVIES
Strong, healthy stock, carefully selected, and suitable for breeding .... The
kind of rabbits you will be proud to own.
German Shepherds—Great Danes
Right as to pedigree and blood lines—and right as to character and disposition. Raised in daily contact with children. Ideal playmates and protectors.
Fawn Colored Great Danes a Specialty
Visitors Welcome
RABBITRY (Reg.) and KENNELS (Reg).
Argente Cremes—Chinchillas
Phone Setauket 158 MRS. CHARLES KAPP, Owner N. Y. C. Address. 250 W. 42nd St.
In one of Judge Fehr's books, he writes that “we” who are at the disadvantage of severe winters and extreme hot summers should not be envious but rather glad that we can get new breeding stock from our neighbors in California, since
California’s Ideal Climate enables one to raise and
produce better rabbits.
If you could see our general stock of
FLEMISH GIANTS you would immediately confirm his statement.
The famous Santa Cruz Mountains in California overlooking the Pacific Ocean is the home of Whitaker’s Mountain Fur Farm where some of the finest
in the world are raised.
Why Send To Europe for Your Breeding Stock
Your great opportunity lies in our Stock priced at $25.00 per breeding pair. With each order goes free advice and seasonal bulletins compiled by Dr. J. Atwood Whitaker, sole owner of Whitaker’s Mountain Fur Farm with twenty-five years experience as a small stock breeder.

FUR Farming of FUR Rabbits and Foxes is the Salvation of the World’s Fur Supply.
Whitaker’s Mountain Fur Farm
Office: 889 Geary Street San Francisco, California
Whitaker’s Mountain Fur Farm
Office: 889 Geary Street San Francisco, California “WHITAKER” CHINCHILLAS FOR PELTS
Importers and Breeders of FUR RABBITS
High Rate of Evaporation Giant Redwoods Natural Wild Animal Solitude Spring Water
Best Health Resort Climate Accessible
Show Record for September 1925 at the Leading CALIFORNIA Shows 81 Entries43 1st Prizes
3Chinchillas placed 1st; 1, 2nd; 1, 3rd; 8 Specials, 1 Silver Trophy Cup with 23 Rabbits placed on Prize Money.
High Grade New Zealands from Registered Class “A”
Young Stock for sale at all times Write me your wants
Certificate of Vaccination Issued with Each Purchase Registered N. Z. Bucks at Stud Fee $2.00
Member A. R. & C. B. A., Inc., and A. F. of N. Z. B.
R. S. HODGIN, Proprietor
Ocean View, Va.
High Quality Standard Chinchilla Stock is All That We Want to Sell You.
Wherever You Buy Insist on Standard Colors It Will Save You Time and Money
516 So. 2nd Ave., R. 2 Box 15 Arcadia, Calif.
Flemish in
Blacks, Steels, Natural and Light Grays
My Stock is Class "A” Registered 18 to 21 lbs., and winning firsts at such shows as Pittsburgh Spring and Summer Show. Washington and New York State Fair, Syracuse.
YOUNG AND MATURE STOCK FOR SALE AT ALL TIMES Imported English Lopears with oarage from 24 to 26 inches, registered, pedigreed and having won Firsts and Specials at all the leading shows.
Colors are Blacks Sooty and Golden Fawn.
Young and Mature Stock in Both Breeds for sale at all times at $5.00 and up each CORRESPONDENCE A PLEASURESATISFACTION GUARANTEED
FRANK MILLER 797 12th St. McKees Rocks, Pa.
Member of
American & National Associations
Breeder and Exhibitor of
High-Grade Pedigreed and Prize-Winning New Zealand Reds THAT ARE RED
Red feet, red ears with nice creamy bellies.
A Few Good Young Ones Generally on Hand at Fair Prices ALL BREEDERS REGISTERED AND PEDIGREED Certified Pedigrees Furnished Member of
A. R. & C. B. Ass’n. and A. F. of N. Zealand Breeders
434 E. Marden St.Washington, Penna.
Breeder and Exhibitor of Prize Winning
Member of
H. V. P. and P. S. Ass’n. and A. R. & C. Breeder's Ass’n. LABORATORY STOCK AT ALL TIMES
B.D. HILL, Mgr. R. F. D. No. 1 Norwalk, Ohio
Won 7 prizes out of 10 Rabbits. Showed over 100 Chinchillas at the Show. Have some very fine Rabbits from these prize winners. U. S. STANDARD
We Have Quality Stock That Will Please.
White Flemish Giants New Zealand Reds and the
Fur Chinchillas
Out-door raised, very HARDY and HEALTHY
None Better for the Price
It is a great pleasure to raise our big healthy fine coated Cavies
We Have All Kinds and Colors English
Peruvians and Abyssinians You will have to see them to appreciate them
English and Abyssinian Cavies
Our Cavies have won in all the big shows
Quality Stock for Sale A.t All Times
C. J. SCHIFFERT 71 Saxton St.
GEO. E. MARSHALL Lockport, N. Y.
We are proud of them and glad to show you our stock VISIT US WHEN YOU CAN
P. S.—Enclose stamp for reply.
C.P. PAULS, General Mgr.H. A. PAULS, Secretary
W. C. PAULS, Sales Mgr.G. H. PAULS, Treasurer
Breeder of
384 Montgomery Ave. Providence, R. I.
Harrison Valley Rabbitry
Harrison Valley, Pa.
Members of All Leading National Associations
If we have not what you want at inquiry, will try and procure the stock you wish at let live prices.
L. E. Abbey—E. W. Hauber Proprietors
Jack Meiling
Breeder of High-Class
FLEMISH GIANTS in all colors
Geo. E. Ott’s
Registered and Commercial Stock
N. B. F. A. and N. F. of F. G. B.
17 Holland Ave.
BataviaNew York
Spanish Fork, Utah
Bred from Pedigreed Stock For Sale at all times
Natural Gray Flemish Giants and
(Hi-Priced, But the Best) Registered Stock
J. E. Metzger
Gresham, Oregon
Good Blood of Pedigree Stock We Strive to Raise the Best
“Our Motto”
The Sunset Rabbitry
E. B. ARNOLD, Mgr.
COLLEAGE PARK. GA. “Dixie's Largest Rabbitry”
Hillcrest Rabbitry
Breeder of
Box 41 Pearl Breach, Mich.
E. S. Babbit I. W. Leach Proprietors 36 Barnum St. Taunton, Mass.
D. L. MIERAS, Proprietor
Breeder and Exhibitor of Pedigreed and Registered Stock Flemish, Gray, Steel, Black and Champagne De Argents
All stock sold Guaranteed
Official Judge and Registrar
Route 1
Arcadia, California
Box 55
Breeder of registered and pedigreed FLEMISH GIANTS AND NEW ZEALANDS
Specializing in White Flemish
Excellent foundation stock available at all times. Shipments made subject to money back if not satisfied. Pedigrees and complete descriptions of dams and sires furnished.
Your correspondence answered promptly.
California Flemish ClubA. R. & C. B. Ass'n.
National Flemish Ass’n.
119 Grove St. N. E.
Grand Rapids,Mich.
The Kind Anyone Would Be Proud to Own. We Have Them in Young and Matured Stock in STEEL GRAYS and in the NATURAL GRAYS PRIZE WINNERS WHEREVER SHOWN Bred from 15 lb. & 17 lb. Pedigreed and Registered Breeding Stock PRICES REASONABLE
MR. and MRS. IRA M. MILLER, 217 Summit Ave., GALION, OHIO
Phone State 1667Member of A. R. & C. B. Ass’n.
Finest French Silver Champaigne De' Argent’s Obtainable IMPORTED PEDIGREEDREGISTERED
Prize Winning Stock
Winning Bucks at StudStock for Sale
All Entries in Fall Fair Were Winners
1925 Woodley RoadVICTORIA, B. C
FLEMISH GIANTS Steel — Natural Gray — Black
See My Special Pedigree Blank for Giant Breeds Sample sent on request. 50 for 90c Postpaid.
2069 No. Fourth St., Columbus, Ohio
Winning in the Keenest of Competition the Grand Championship Three Years in Succession.
Pre-eminently the Finest in the U. S. A.
Winning at Colorado State Fair—2 Firsts; 2 Seconds, and 9 Other Prizes. Also First Prize on Chinchilla Pelts and Fur Display.
Get the Best
A. C. Staudt
Bechtelsville, Pa.
Price Reasonable
F. I. Williams
Rabbit Pelts
North Adams Michigan
West Cleveland Rabbitry
MRS. J. A. GOODWIN. Owner 727 W. Cleveland Ave. Spokane. Wash.
Registered and Pedigree Stock Always on Hand.
Breeder and Exhibitor of
Flemish Giants, Chinchillas, New Zealand Red, and English Cavies. White Mice and Rats
We Raise
Fame Rabbitry
Vancouver Island. B. C. Canada White Angoras Finest Woolens Imported
English Champion Pedigree Stock
Write me for Prices
Their wool sells at $18.00 a pound, spun
Prize Winning Pedigree Stock Pedigree Siamese Cats
New Boston, Mich
Satisfaction Guaranteed
Edmore Rabbitry
Breeder and Exhibitor of Registered Stock
Light Gray, Steel Gray, Black
All Stock Sold Guaranteed
Oscar F. Schultze
In 4 Colors
American Blue and New Zealand Red, Rufus Red and White Angoras
No Culls Sent Out—All Stock Shipped C.O.D. for Approval.
39 Main St. Norwalk, Conn.
S. B. Miller
1009 E. Allen Ave. Fort Worth, Texas
Monthly magazine devoted to care of rabbits and other furbearing animals and small stock.
Yearly subscription price
Three years for $2.00 Send 10 cents for sample copy
The Pet Stock Journal and Hares and Rabbits
The Pet Stock Publishing Co.
Galion, Ohio
American Blues Whit® Flemish Himalayan
Line Bred
Our foundation stock is from the best Chinchillas blood in England. Bred and selected for us by Mr. T. J. Ambrose, and are descendants from such noted champions as Sir Mervyn, Sir Nigel, Boston Surprise, My Diar’e and Westwood, Sir William, Dams-Beauty of Leicestershire daughter of Pauline, Lady Victoria Percy’s noted winning dam, Annette, My Fancy, and Silver Fleece.
These does are headed by the best stud buck we can get and his breeder, Mr. Ambrose, claims he is one of the best Chinchillas bred in 1925—Sire, Sir Mervyn. Dam, The Countess.
764 Laurence Street, EUGENE, OREGON.
Member of
American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders’ Association American Chinchilla Breeders’ Association
MRS. H. L. BROWN, 4455 Montalvo Street, Ocean Beach, California.
Member of
American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders Assn. Asso. Rabbit Breeders of So. California. San Diego Co. Rabbit Breeders Asso.
Havana New Zealand Champagne de Argent
3431 Garnet St.
Los Angeles, Calif.
Eau Galle,
Breeder of
502 Cedar St.
Peoria, 111,
When in need of GOOD BIG FLEMISH GIANT RABBITS. All Colors. Drop me a line.
The Lankershim Rabbitry
Breeder of
Young Stock from Prize Winning Ancestors at all times
Registered and Pedigreed Stock Marked Up to Standard
Correspondence Solicited
Flemish Giants
PRICES RIGHT Satisfaction Guaranteed
518 Summer St. Akron, O.
Breeding Stock for Sale
MARK WEST, Proprietor
Nine Years a Reliable Breeder of RUFUS RED BELGIANS
Wiart’s Rabbitries
Black DutchBlue Dutch
New Zealand Reds
Member of A. R. & C. B. A. Akron Rabbit & Cavy Club
Wiart’s Rabbitries
R. F. D. No. 1 Hooper, Utah
Geo. H. Jayne, Prop.
Elmsford, N. Y.
Gilbert & Metcalf
Breeders and Exhibitors
New Zealand, Blue Dutch Havana and Silvers New Zealands a Specialty Sannen Milk Goats
Maumee Poultry & Pet Stock Ass’n.
W. F. GILBERT Maumee, Ohio
Licensed Judge A. R. & C. B. A. Inc.
A. B. METCALF Maumee, Ohio
White Poultry and Pet Stock
White and Blue Flemish Giants
White New Zealands Blue Ribbon Stock White Collies
E.B. Hitchco*ck
Levanna on Cayuga Lake, N. Y.
Mountain View Fur Farm
Flemish Giants
Breeder of Registered CHINCHILLA RABBITS
Blacks, Steels, Light and Sandies
R. D. Gibson
Route 3, box 127-A Salem, Ore.
R. F. D. 9
Black, Steel and Gray
White and BlackWhite and Blue
All breeders are of standardweight YOU
Must Be Satisfied
A. G. Hixson, R. D. No. 1, Scottsdale, Pa.
3790 Bigelow Blvd.Pittsburgh, Pa.
Breeder of SUPREME
English Spotted and Dutch Rabbits
Licensed Judge and Registrar —Satisfaction Guaranteed—
Breeder and Shipper of Registered and Pedigreed FLEMISH GIANT RABBITS
Write me your wants Stock Guaranteed
D. A. BEAM, Prop.
Shippensburg, Pa.
Wallowa Valley Fur Farm
Pedigreed Boston Bulls
Licensed Registrar
Mrs. Verna Burt, Owner
A. J. BURT, Mgr. EnterpriseOre.
Flemish Giants
Sunshine State
Prize Winning Chinchillas at Reasonable Prices
“The Bell Rabbitry”
374 Ferris Ave. Belvidere Gardens Los Angeles, Calif.
Prompt Replies to All Inquiries
Sunshine Rabbitry
H. M. RICKMEYER, Prop. Box 1005 Aberdeen, S. D.
Personally Selected from Registered and Pedigreed Stock
Fred HutchinsonProprietor
Always Some Good Stock in These Breeds CHINCHILLAS. FLEMISH GIANTS, and SILVER GIANTS
Member of:
A. R. & C. B. Ass’n.
American Chinchilla Rabbit Breeders’ Ass’n.
Treasurer G. C. R. B. & F. Ass’n.
Licensed Registrar.
J. J. and E.N. LOVELL, Prop’s.
Breeders and Exhibitors Black, Blue and Tortoise English,
Elliott and Whitehead Pet Stock Farm
1630 No. Grange Ave.
Sioux Falls, S. D.
Breeders of:
Breeders of
BREEDERS SOLD ON BUYER’S APPROVAL Money Refunded if Not Satisfied
ROSS PINKERTON, Proprietor 812 So. Bend Ave.
South Bend, Indiana
A reliable outlet has at last been established
Pelts Held 10 Days After Check is Mailed and Will Be Returned if Receipts not Satisfactory
Make Your Shipments Direct To:
Breeders’ & Trappers’ Fur Exchange
Members of American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association and The American Chinchilla Rabbit Breeders Association.
For FOOD, FUR and FANCY All Stock PEDrGREED and Eligible to REGISTER Prices Reasonable
Satisfaction Guaranteed or Money Refunded MRS. F. A. MUNNEKE504 So. 9th St., CLINTON, OKLA.
Breeder of High Grade
AMERICAN BLUES “Rabbits. That Satisfy”
1811 E. 24 St., R. R. 1Oklahoma City, Okla.
“CHINCHILLAS SUPREME” Importers and Shippers
Breeder and Shipper of Pedigreed Flemish Giants from Registered Stock
In Steel, Gray and Blacks
Young Stock and Breeders for Sale.
D. B. ROHRER, Pres.B. D. ROHRER, Secy.
Breeders of
All Pedigreed Stock of Quality WRITE FOR PRICES
Members of N. B. & F. A.andAkron R. & C. C.
Our Standard:
Black Siberians and Blue Imperials
Registered and Pedigreed Stock Satisfaction Guaranteed
FRANK P. BOUCHER, Proprietor
Male and Female Stock from Prize Winners at Challenge Show, 12-29-23, Canton, Ohio
Harry E. Almendinger
From Prize Winning Strains Fully Pedigreed QUALITY STOCK ONLY
Pacific Coast Rabbitry 653 Pennsylvania Ave.
Member of:
A. R. & C. B. A., Inc.
N.F. N. Z. B. A. F. F. G. B. A. R B. of S. C. R. B.
If It’s Quality You Want. We Have It.
Pedigreed and Registered Stock —also—
S.C. Rhode Island Reds Prize Stock
Licensed Registrar
P. E. Greenwood
P. O. Box 1031 VICTORIA. B. C.
Cherokee Rabbitry
4058 Cherokee Ave.
Fur and Stock Rabbits French Havanas
New Zealand Reds and Whites
Inquiries Quickly Replied To.
We guarantee and will back up all Rabbits after proven as Breeders.
Member of:
American Rabbit & Cavy Breed ers’ Assn.
Flemish Giants and
New Zealand Reds
Breeder of Registered
Grey and Steel Flemish Checkered Giants
Member of
N. F. of F. C. B. and A. R. & C. B. A.
552 Dupplin Road VICTORIA, B. C.
American Federation of New Zealand Breeders’ Association.
The American Fox and Fur Farmer M agazine
Silver, Blue, Cross and Red Fox, Otter, Marten, Fisher, Beaver, Muskrat, Mink, Raccoon, Skunk, Wolves, Deer, Karakul Sheep, Milk Goats, Fur and Meat Rabbits, Cavies, Dogs, Wild Ducks, Geese, Pheasants, Birds, Frogs- Trout, Ginseng, Golden Seal, Wild Rice and other Water Plants.
In season we carry articles on Trapping, Dressing, and Handling of Raw Pelts.
Fur Manufacturing and Fur Fashions.
Subscription Rates, $2.00 Per Year in U. S. Sample Copy 25c Advertising Rates on Application.
U. S. A.
Route No. 2
New Westdn, Ohio
Chestnut Lawn Poultry and Rabbit Farm
FOSTER BROS., Proprietors Box 16, Randolph, Ohio
Are the BEST Which Money Can Buy.
Winnings for the last five years at all the Leading Shows. Madison Square Garden, Baltimore, Canton, (O.), Akron, Lima, Detroit, Toledo, Toronto, (Canada), etc. etc.
8 Silver Cups, Numerous Specials. (4 Bucks at Stud).
Also Breeder of White-faced Red Cornish, winner of First Cleveland—1924. First, Akron, First and Special, Toronto, Canada, First-Special, Madison Square Garden. Eggs in Season.
Albert B. Banchet
88 Massilon Road, R. F. D. 1, Box 12.EAST AKRON. OHIO
All Registered and Pedigreed Stock Many Blue Ribbon Winners
J. De Vries
E. 3403 32nd. Ave. Spokane, Wash.
Gray Flemish Giants and New Zealand Reds Reds are Bred from Prize Winner of
I.W. Taylor and Vilmure’s Strain.
$2.50 to $5.00 Each According to Age.Trios Cheaper.
972 So. 8th West St.Salt Lake, Utah
“The 3 Big F’s”
“FOOD” “FUR” and “FANCY”
Breeder and Fancier
Registered Stock
Geo. H. Jayne Strain Winners at Many Shows and the New York State Fair.
Wm. C. Clare 165 West Utica St. Oswego, N. Y.
"Where Only the Best is Sold for Breeding Stock” Chinchilla Rabbits a Specialty Our Foundation Stock Imported from England ALSO BREEDERS OF Flemish Giants for Fox Feed.
Raccoon, Mink, Foxes. Silver. Red and Blues.
Yes. we are in it all over and have been for years. So we know what it pays to raise. Test us once.
D. L. SESSIONS, Manager
The “Twin Lakes” Silver Fox Farms Company KENT, OHIO.
Breeder of
STEEL GRAY, LIGHT GRAY and BLACK FLEMISH Fancy Breeder and Shipper of Meat Stock WRITE ME YOUR WANTS Member of N. F. G. B. Association
No. 53 No. Dartmouth, Mass.
Utah’s New Champion SANDY BUCK
Jumbo Prince, Reg. 2285B, 17 Pounds. “Son of Leviathan”
7 Firsts, 1 Second, 1 Third, 3 Fourths, 1 Fifth, Best Steele and Best Sandy Gray, Utah State Fair 1923. C. S. Gibson, Judge.
SEVEN out of Fifteen SILVER CUPS.
Best Display Steele, Black, Blue and Sandy Gray Flemish. Best Display Flemish, All Varieties Competing.
Best Display Dressed Rabbit Meat.
Best Display, All Breeds Competing.
14 Firsts, 16 Seconds, 11 Thirds, 14 Fourths, 7 Fifths, Utah State Fair, 1924. Lewis S. J. Griffin, Judge.
Competing in 28 Classes, I won 28 Firsts, 10 Seconds, 5 Thirds, 5 Fourths, 3 Fifths, Special Awards on Steele, Light Gray, Black, Blue and Sandy Gray Flemish, Utah State Fair, 1925. H. K. Carter, Judge.
Trace my blood lines back to “Allendale Ace,” “Country Gentleman,” “Supremacy,” “Gray Knight,” “Master Piece,” “Jack of Clubs,” and many other noted winners, including “David I,” who died “AN UNDEFEATED CHAMPION.” With the blood lines of “Leviathan” Imported German Stock, I have IMPROVED MY STRAIN. NO WONDER THEY WIN.
Importer and Breeder of Chinchillas and “FAMOUS BIG BONE FLEMISH”
2435 So. 5th East
Member A. R. & C. B. A. Inc. N. F. F. G. B.; A. F. N. Z. B.; A. C. R. B. A.; Utah R. B. A Inc.
Licensed Judge and Registrar.
Rufus Red Belgians New Zealand Reds Flemish Giants Gray Giants
1124 23rd St.
JOE WOLF Proprietor
Pedigreed and Registered Parents. I also sell Rabbits for Meat Purposes.
Milwaukee, Wis.
Box 317-A, Route 4Tacoma, Washington
Breeder of
Their bloodlines Have Won FIRSTS and SPECIALS Wherever Shown and Have Produced as High as 22½ Pounds in Weight.
Satisfaction Guaranteed
1813 Railroad Ave.Aberdeen, Washington
FLEMISH GIANT RABBITS Black Grey and Steel Grey
Fancy breeder with Pedigree also for meat stock.
53 No. Dartmouth, Mass.
Breeder of
Flemish Giants and New Zealand Rabbits
NEW ZEALAND REDS A SPECIALTY Satisfaction Guaranteed
R. F. D. 10Fort Wayne, Ind.
Member of A. F. N. Z. B.
MC’S RABBITRY AND FUR FARM Breeder of Cross Foxes
Also Gold Certificate Chinchilla and Flemish Giant Rabbits QUALITY not QUANTITY our MOTTO
Can Book a Limited Number of Orders After June 1st, 1926.
E. J. McDermont, Prop.
Gen. Del. Bend, Ore.
A. E. BALDWIN, Manager
Pedigreed from Prize-Winning Stock
High Grade Flemish Giants and Chinchilla Rabbits
John F. Schmidt
138 E. Main St. Hornell, N. Y.
Member of A. R. & C. B. A.
Fishers Rabbit Farm
BLAINE FISHER, Prop. Rices Landing, Penna.
BREEDER AND EXHIBITOR OF English Cavies in Black, White, Cream, Chocolate, Dutch, Tortoise and White and Cream Peruvians in White, Cream and Broken Colors Rabbits in Checkered Giants and American Blues Havanas and Chinchillas
My Motto: “Satisfied Customers"
Member of: U. G. B. A., C. C. C.. N. B. F. Assn., Inc
FRED T. WITT. Proprietor
Bred for Color and Quality
All my stock are pedigreed and most all of them have won prizes at leading shows.
Health is my first consideration.
R. F. D. No. 1
BOX 106
Clintonville, Wisconsin
Breeds Rabbits and Cavies of Quality Registered and Pedigreed
F. W. CLOSE, Gray Flemish, Checkers, American Blues.
Klamath Falls, Lake View Route.
A. R. RENNER, Licensed Judge and Registrar See ACE RABBITRY AD.
Box 595, Klamath Falls, Ore.
W. C. VAN EMON, American Blues and Cavies.
Box 157, Klamath Falls, Ore.
H. E. (Cap) HANSBERRY, Chinchillas, New Zealand Reds, Silver Foxes, Blue and Cross Foxes.
Rocky Point, Ore.
A. E. HACKENSON, Chinchillas, New Zealand Reds, Silver Foxes. Rocky Point, Ore.
L. M. CUMMINGS, Chinchillas, Gray Flemish, French Silvers.
R. D. No. 1, Klamath Falls, Ore.
H. R. MILNER, Flemish Giants, American Blues, and Cavies.
Box 614, Klamath Falls, Ore.
E. B. MILNER, Flemish Giants, American Blues, and Cavies.
Box 614, Klamath Falls, Ore.
DONART’S FUR SHOP, W. W. Donart, Prop., Taxidermist and Furrier. We specialize in Rabbit Furs.
SAM GOBER, Gray Flemish Giants and American Blues.
Klamath Falls, Lake View Route.
A. R. RENNER. PresidentH. E. (Cap) HANSBERRY,
H. R. MILNER, Secretary-Treasurer
OUR MOTTO—We Never Sell Rabbits We Would Not Buy or Sell at a Price We Would Not Pay.
An Empire Awakening. The Land of Opportunity.
The Gateway to Crater Lake.
Klamath Rabbit Breeders Association
Breeder of High Class
In Grays, Steels and Blacks Also Havanas
G.H. LOOSE, Prop.
National Judge
35 Bond Street Phone 1496 R Ashtabula, Ohio
Breeders of
HIGH GRADE MINK Young Stock Usually for Sale
Write for Prices to—
Champagne Game Farms
We Buy Your Raw Hides Also
1415 Clinton St. Sandusky, Ohio
WM. PARRY, President, 1041 Pine St., Cincinnati, Ohio.
JOHN J. LENERT, Vice-President, 316 Main Ave., Elmwood Pl., Ohio.
FRED HUTCHINSON, Treasurer, 1148 Cedar Ave., College Hill, Cincinnati, Ohio.
CLYDE OURSLER, Secretary, Mt. Washington, Cincinnati, Ohio.
Breeders of the Following Varieties
Association meets second Sunday in each month at different member’s Rabbitries
Seward Berhow
Box 323
Can furnish same in any quantity and any age. from 10 weeks to 10 months old With or without Pedigree.
My new location permits me to raise more and better rabbits and also to sell at a price to fit anyone’s pocket-book.
Rabbit and Cavy SUPPLIES
We Are the Only Supply House in the Northwest
ORDER FROM US AND SAVE EXPRESS 20 Page Illustrated Catalog Free We combine SERVICE and QUALITY
I Specialize in Out-door Raised Flemish That Are GIANTS WITH QUALITY None but FIRST CLASS stock sold as breeders Pedigreed. Registered and Healthy YOU MUST BE SATISFIED
I have the live and let live prices and a square deal for all Correspondence Invited Young, Matured and Bred Does
From Imported Prize Winners All Ages at Very Attractive Prices
Correspondence Invited
R. N. Haverstick
R. No. 3, Box 144
Licensed Judge
Breeder and Exhibitor of
English Cavies
Cream, Chocolate, Black and Silver Agouti
Prize Winners at Most of the Large Shows,

1134 S. Seneca St. WICHITA, - KANS.
Kansas Breeders and Fanciers Association
If you are a breeder of Rabbits, Cavies or Pigeons you should join this Association
M. STONER, Secretary
1134 S. Seneca StreetWICHITA, KAN.
Red and White New Zealands Imported Chinchillas American Blues
American Rabbitry
Breeder of Pedigreed and
Prize Winning Strain
P. 0. Box 1024 SANTA ANA, CALIF.
Have For Sale at All Times FLEMISH GIANTS and NEW ZEALAND REDS Let Us Have Your Next Order for Stock.
We Ship on a Money Back Guarantee
We Are Absolutely Reliable Address all inquiries for stock to
Publicity Manager 1323 Zollars Ave.
Association Secretary,
1208 Hustis Ave.
Breeder of Natural. Steel and Sandy Gray Flemish. All my breeding stock is registered Class A—including many prize winners.
I showed 4 head at the Lima, Ohio, Convention Show winning 1st and 2nd on Sr. Sandy does: 1st on 6 mos. doe; 1st on 6 mos. old buck.
HEAVY STOCK FOR SALE AT ALL TIMES Stock Guaranteed—including ages and weight.
Princess Pat. Class A, 20 lbs.— Winner of Ten Firsts Undefeated.
SIZE—15 to 19 lb. Breeders.
TYPE—Big Bone, Massive Frame, Long Bodies.
COLOR — Gray and Sandy Gray for Generations Back.
Argente de Champagnes (French Silvers)
of the Best Strains in America STANDARD CHAMPAGNE SILVER COLOR “Silver Silvers”—not Black Silvers
New Zealand Reds
Reds That Are Reds—Top and Bottom
All Priced Right. We Are not Trying to See How Many We Can Sell, but How Good We Can Produce Them for You.
All Stock Fully Pedigreed and Guaranteed to Register, free from Disqualifications.
EVERY BREEDER REGISTERED Also the name, “Ace” Rabbitry
If you want “Ace” Quality Breeding Stock we have it for sale When writing state exactly what you want YOURS FOR BETTER RABBITS
Box 595
Licensed Judge and Registrar All Breeds A. R. and C. B. A. Open for Judging Contracts Member N. F. of F. G. B.
President, Klamath Rabbit Breeders' Association 1st Vice-President, Southern Oregon Rabbit Breeders’ Assn.
Flemish Giants That Are Giants
Kaser’s Rabbitry
Registered Chinchillas
Ideal and Standard Chinchilla Champ Strains Healthy Outdoor Rabbits
Prices on Request
Those wishing to make money can do no better than raise Rabbits.
I handle the best pedigreed stock that money can buy.
Let your wants be known by writing me for full particulars.
Giles Hollis
Junction City Rabbitry
New Zealand Reds Exclusively
Write Me Your Wants
‘It Pays to Buy the Best”
Sunnyside Rabbitry
We have them in
Descendants from Winners
R. B. Murdock
Harry Grot John & Sons
FLANDREAU, S. D. R 4, B 14
Satisfaction Guaranteed
All Stock
Guaranteed as Represented

Blue Flemish Giant Rabbits
7408 Normal Ave.
MRS. J. FRENCH Member of A. R. & C. B. A. A. C. B. A.
N. F. of F. G. B.
W. A. FRENCH Judge & Registrar of A.R,&C.B.A.,
The A. B. C. Chinchilla Farm
3628 Saanich Road VICTORIA, B. C.
Breeder and Importer of High Class Stock and a Winner of Many Prizes at Many A. R. & C. B. A. Shows.
All Above Stock Are Pedigree and Registered from the Best Imported Stock. Young and Adult Stock at All Times.
All Bred at Our Canadian Rabbitry from Excellent Prize Winning Strain of Imported English Stock.
We Sell Only Rabbits That Have Been Raised By Us.
If You Do Not Like Them, Return to Us in Good Condition within Two Weeks and We Will Refund the Money Paid.
You Will Be Pleased to Own “A. B. C. Rabbits.” Address Your Requirements to
Breeder of
Bowman Brothers
1830 E. Bowman Street SOUTH BEND, IND.
The excellence of OBERON STRAIN CHINCHILLA RABBITS is something more than quality, something more than pedigree, something more than beauty. It is even something more than a combination of all three. Excellence is SUPREMACY.
OBERON RABBITRY 268 Inca St., Denver, Colo.
Cavies of Quality
Member of A. R. & C. B, A. and
N. F. of F. G. B.
The Lethe Hall RABBITRY
Pedigreed Class “A’’ Stock Utility
Breeder and Laboratory Specializing Foundation Stock
Henry C. Barron
A-29 Terracina Boulevard REDLANDS, CALIF.
t Can Supply You with High Class English Cavies in Solid and Broken Colors
Exhibition and Utility Stock
Laboratories Supplied
9031 Hillside Street OAKLAND, CALIF.
Pound, Wisc.
Checkered Giant French Silver New Zealand
747 No. Claudina St.
Registrar. A. R. & C. B. Assn. Member A. R. & C. B. Assn.
A. R. B. of S. C.
Bedford Rabbitry
Pedigreed New Zealand Reds Fine Youngsters for Sale at all times
Special Prices from Three to Five Months of Age Let me know what you want.
Member of A. F, of N. Z. Breeders
A. R. & C. B. A.
Write to Pound Rabbitry Before You Buy
Breeders and Exhibitors of
Write us for information and mention this advertisem*nt
Mrs. C. E. Scanlon
Member of the A. R.& C. B. A.
P. O. BOX 165
Your stationery and catalogs speak volumes for your stock.
We will make them prize winners in style, quality and selling punch.
Give us an opportunity
Member of A. R. & C. B. A.
D.S. SOALE, ProprietorR. No. 4, Peebles, Ohio
I Raise New Zealand Reds
I am also MAGAZINE AGENT and can supply anything published anywhere.
1 have catalogues for distribution and they are free for the asking.
MRS. MAGGIE McCOY, .... Proprietor Breeder of English Cavies

Solid Red, Solid White and Cream, and Spotted All Good Quality
Member of A. R. & C. B. A.
PHIL. F. BOLAY, Proprietor 6355 Cherokee StreetGermantown, Pa.
Young Stock for SaleAt All Times
Member of
American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders’ Association and Chinchilla R. B. Association; also Philadelphia Rabbit Breeders’ Association
No Lop Ears or Wry TailsYoungsters Only
Priced to you to re-sell at a profit
Giants That Are Giants For Sale.
Can Sell More Than This Rabbitry Can Raise.
Satisfaction Guaranteed. Money Back if Found to be Otherwise Than Represented.
John Richter’s Specialty.
Extra Large Bone, Broad Head, Great Length are the First Requirements for Breeding Does and Bucks in
“John’s & Playfair’s Rabbitries”
Turney’s Poultry & Rabbit Yard
We Specialize in New Zealand Red Rabbits Stahl's Gold Certificate Strain
Write us for Prices on Young Stock Fine Buck at Stud Fee, $2.50 Our Stock Registered in A. R. & C. B. A.
E.TURNEY, Manager
Box 661Wilson, Okla.
Guinea Pigs
469 Avon Avenue NEWARK, N. J.
Eikenberry’s High Grade Flemish Giants
Real Giants in Size, Heavy Bone and True Flemish Type—the Kind of Stock Anyone Would Be Proud to Own.
All Correspondence and Stock Will Receive My Personal Attention.
The Right Kind at
The Right Price Satisfaction Guaranteed
Wallace Bros.
Weyburn Sask. Canada
Pedigreed, and direct descendants of the Celebrated “IVOR” winner of the International
Will Have a Bunch for Sale by Spring
Remember the Address
Write, we will answer with Pleasure.
Charles E. Young
3926 Tennyson Street DENVER, COLORADO
WALLACE BROS., Box 96 Weyburn, Sask., CANADA
Hugh P. Holcomb
We Make a Specialty of Chinchillas
The best fur and meat rabbit grown anywhere.
Have a limited number for sale at all times.
Blue Beverens and Chinchillas
Woldspur and Champion Epworth Royal Strains
Exhibition and Breeding Stock for Sale
Correspondence Invited
Bunny Ville Rabbitry
Breeder of
1 am an exclusive breeder of this popular rabbit.
My foundation stock are of the best. There are none better We have no pedigreed culls. If you are looking for good breeding stock, I know I can please you.
Stark Rabbitry
Breeder of
Plymouth Meeting Pa.,
Breeder of
Flemish Giant Rabbits
Satisfaction Guaranteed
H,E. Stark, Prop
Box 93
Langford Rabbitry
D. B. F. BULLEN “Marshwood”
Langford, B. C., Canada
MRS. H. F. KELLEY Louis Creek, B. C., Canada
Glasford Rabbitry
Breeder and Shipper of
New Zealand Red
American Blue Flemish Giant Rabbits and
John Miller
R. R. No. 3
Breeder and Shipper of
Fully Pedigreed
A prompt reply to your inquiry
Priced to Sell
Kay Douglas
All Stock Guaranteed as Represented
ROUTE 2 GALENA, O. N. F. of F. G. B.
A. R. & C. B. A.
Burrell Brothers
Registered Flemish Giants
Write for Description and Prices
All Stock Sold Guaranteed Official Registrar
Elmer Casady
Breeder of New Zealand Reds and
1126 No. Dearborn St.
Indianapolis, - Indiana
Flemish Giants
New Zealand Reds
Registered and Pedigreed Stock
All Stock Guaranteed
Leo A. Ford
Pedigreed and Eligible for Registration
Prices according to Age and Quality
Theodore B. Wildes
SO. DARTMOUTH, MASS. Phone Connection
John Zapushek
905 Humboldt St. PEORIA, - ILLINOIS
Warren’s Flemish Giant Rabbitry
The home of Steels, Black and Light Gray Flemish Pedigreed and Registered
Four Entries:—Best and First 6-8 Light Gray Doe, First and Best Steel Flemish in the Show; First 6-8 Steel Doe.
Four Entries:—First and Second, Steel Sr. Does; First, Light Gray Sr. Doe; First, Sr. Steel Buck.
Write For Particulars and Price List on Stock at All Times.
139 Standish Ave.Plymouth, Mass
OSCAR I. LUMBERT, Proprietor
Breeder of
Flemish Giants
Gray, Steel, Black
All Breeders Registered
P. O. Box 215 Bensenville, Ill.
Carters Small Stock Farm
FRENCH SILVERS(Silver Foxes Only Rivals)
English Gray Call Ducks Rhode Island Reds—Bantys Super-Mammoth Toulese Geese
R. B. MILLER, President
Breeder of:
T.A. HOWLAND. Manager
‘ Red, White, Black and Blue’’
Route 12Box 1032
Bert Weaver
Breeder of
Himalyan and Dutch Rabbits
High Quality Guaranteed WRITE YOUR WANTS We Please our Customers
ORDERS BOOKED NOW My Breeders are all Registered
M. R. B. Box 139 BEND, ORE.
Young and Mature
For Sale at All Times
Fred Farrel
1360 Jefferson St.
The Greenlake Rabbitry
The Real Honest to Goodness Small Stock Breeders’ Newspaper
Read by Small Stock Breeders from Coast to Coast and from the Gulf to Northern Canada
It Gives You
1.America’s best service to small stock breeders.
2.Reports of the foremost shows from every
3.News of the small stock world from every-
4.News of the various organizations, local and
5.Educational articles of the highest value.
6.An interesting and instructive Fur Farming
7.Everything to make it true to name, “The Real
Honest to Goodness Small Stock Breeders’ Newspaper.
The Fancier is recognized today as America’s leading Result Bringing Medium for small stock breeders, and its columns are used by the country’s greatest breeders. Advertising rates on application.
Subscription Price, $1 Per Yr; Three Yrs., $2; Sample Copy, 10c
Dept. 34, P. 0. Box 447YORK PENNSYLVANIA
“Atta Boy”
Member: A. R. & C. B. A.; A. R. B. & S. C. ; A. F. of N. Z B.
851 Springdale St,
The Fair View Rabbitry
Breed ersof
Shipments Prompt and Prices Right
The Rabbit Breeders Exchange
Is Now Firmly Established
We are in a position to accept any and all rabbit pelts for the purpose of pooling them and selling to the very best advantage at the very best prevailing market price.
Working in co-operation with the American Rabbit & Cavy Breeders’ Association and directly responsible to its Board of Directors for the management of this Exchange, we offer a most reliable outlet for your rabbit skins from baby pelts to the best Chinchillas.
Immediate returns on all shipments, large and small, the only deduction from gross sale price being the ridiculously low commission provided for by the American Association for the purpose of defraying expenses of operation.

Write for Shipping Instructions. Correspondence is a real pleasure.
Rabbit Breeders Exchange
General Manager
65 Highland ParkwayRochester, N. Y.
The Supreme Success of All Magazines Devoted to the Rabbit and Fur Animal Industry
(formerly “American Rabbit and Cavy Journal”)
It is the only monthly journal that actually meets the need of
all those who are raising or interested in rabbits and other fur-bearing animals.
Learn How
Such as Rabbits, Foxes, Mink, Skunk, Muskrats, Opossums, Etc.
It’s the Biggest Help for Breeders Everywhere
Below is a partial list of the regular items that appear in every number of this monthly. Things of vast importance to all breeds—
Selection and Breeding of Stock—Feeding—Housing—Plans —Hutches—Genera! Care of Stock—Markets for Breeders— Fur Markets—Meat Markets—Practical Cashing in Ideas— Show and Association News—Splendid Illustrations. Etc.
Your prosperity may depend on whether or not you write your name and address on the coupon below. DO IT NOW!
Only--ONE DOLLAR----Per Year
Tear Off This Coupon and Mail it in TODAY
115 G. B. East 31st St.. Kansas City. Missouri.
Gentlemen: For the enclosed dollar please enter my name on the subscription list of “FUR ANIMALS” to receive the magazine for one year-—
commence with..............................issue. If 1 am not more than satisfied
with first three issues, I am to tell you. and my money is to be returned.
.St. or R.F.D.
SPECIAL One set of plans “CASHING IN ON HARES" will be sriven FREE with each subscription, while the limited number of plans last. You can tret a copy if you send in your subscription NOW.

To Succeed In Raising
Profitable Stock
R. R. No. 1, North Canton, Ohio
American Checkered Giants Champaign De Argents and BELGIAN HARES
Of The
A Beautiful Fur in Natural Color
W. B. GARLAND, Proprietor
(Licensed Judge and Registrar)
A New Book
The Rabbit That Is Making the American Rabbit Industry By Edw. H. Stahl
Every man or woman interested in the wonderful Chinchilla Rabbit—in producing the best breeding and show stock—and in making real money out of their business in raising rabbits—should read this interesting and practical book. It contains the secrets of successful Chinchilla Rabbit raising, boiled down for the busy reader and practical breeder, who wants to know the essential things he should know to make a success of the enterprise.
Here is a Brief Review of Some of the Things it Covers
All about this magnificent breed; how to raise, house, feed, and general care; what a real Chinchilla Rabbit should be: weights at all ages from weaning time to maturity; history: also pictures showing the real Chinchilla Animal and comparison made as to color with the now famous Chinchilla Rabbit. This section is also illustrated with many other fine photographs, etc.
All about this breed of the Chinchilla Rabbit Family; it’s advantage over the standard Chinchilla Rabbit—if any—showing photos of many fine specimens —also weights which the rabbits should make from month to month up to maturity. Other important features, etc
Wha is an American Chinchilla Giant? Will it ever become popular? The advantages and disadvantages of this breed; splendid photographs of America’s finest specimens ; table of weights from weaning age to maturity, etc.
Even the latest standards are published—with full explanation, in clear detail. so that anyone reading same, will be able to understand the Chinchilla Rabbit Family, and how to judge them.
---64 Pages and Cover-
(Remember, Your Money Back if You Are Not Entirely Satisfied)
Pocket Companion
For Rabbit, Cavy and Small Stock Breeders
Write for it today, it shows you the essential things necessary to conduct a successful Rabbit and small stock business.
Salt Spools
The only spool made by Hydrolic Pressure by machinery especially made for this purpose.
1 Dozen spools Pure Salt ....... ...$1.00
1 Dozen Spools Sulphurized Salt. .... 1.00
1 Dozen Spools Mineral Salt ......... 1.25
Box 112 Holmes Park, Missouri
Finest Quality Pedigreed
Start with One Buck and Five Does all for SI00.00
The Big Fellows $15.00 Per Pair
Silver Black Foxes
Standard Silver Black Foxes
Interior Alaskan Silver Black Foxes
Alaskan Blue Foxes
We specialize in furnishing breeders for beginners. Research laboratory on ranch with keeper of fifteen years experience.
Write for prices, folder and parts.
The World’s Premier Fur Producing Rabbits
Chinchillas and White Beverens
Chinchilla Rabbits Have Taken America by Storm. Only a few years old—still, at most of the shows we find more Chinchillas than of any other breed. As to quality of our Chinchillas, we unhesitatingly say that the show room tells. IT PROVES THAT WE HAVE THE STOCK as our winnings surpass those of any other breeder on the American continent.
That Famous “Sta Chin Champ
We Bred and Raised That Remarkable Rabbit in our own rabbitries. “Sta Chin Champ,” the best buck ever exhibited in America -a buck that has to his credit 13 winnings under five of America's leading judges a buck that, so far. has been in a class by himself not only in the show room, but as an outstanding individual specimen.
Our Customers—They Win, Too
We Have Other Big Winnings, Too. We do not exhibit at small shows without competition- we show and we win at the largest shows. In fact, it is seldom that a Chinchilla shown by us fails to place.
Everywhere Our Customers Win
with stock purchased from us or with stock raised from the stock they bought of us. Whether we show or whether our customers show prizes are won just the same. That’s because of QUALITY STOCK—FIRST AND ALWAYS.
We have on hand at all times stock that is fit to show that will always give a good account of themselves.
This Is Comparatively a New Rabbit so far as America is concerned. We were the first to import them into this country. It is a white rabbit with pale blue eyes—the fur is wonderful soft texture, and the hair is about two inches long, very dense and thick, and particularly attractive, as an outstanding feature of this new breed.
Shown at the Colorado Show
We Exhibited Some of Our Best Specimens at the recent Colorado Springs Convention, and they caused quite a sensation. Judges from all over the country were very much impressed by the appearance of these rabbits, and pronounced them a wonderful addition to fur rabbits, and a splendid future for them.
They weight from 7 to 8 pounds which makes them an ideal breed. There are but few really good specimens in America at this time. We believe we have the best, and are importing some every month, and can supply some of this stock (in a limited way ) to those who are interested.
Write Us for Further Details
This is the Age of Fur Rabbits— They are the foundation of a permanent rabbit industry. The leading meat rabbit breeders claim they can get something for the fur, they can then make a bigger profit on the meat. Better investigate about this White-Beveren rabbit right now if you wish to make some money supplying breeding stock to take care of future demands.
We have some very interesting information to give you regarding Chinchillas and White Beverens. May we send it to you without obligation? If so. then write us by today's mail.
Box 115, Holmes Park, Missouri
EDW. H. STAHL, Secretary
Holmes Park, Missouri
The American Chinchilla Rabbit Breeders Association, is the leading spirit, in the boosting of Chinchilla Rabbits.
And you join the largest most wide-awake specialty club in America. Dues are $1.00 a year and you get on receipt of your membership the club's guide book, a real book on Chinchilla Rabbits, which has 100 Pages of real information on Chinchilla Rabbits, in fact all about them, from raising to feeding to judging and exhibiting, when you have this book you can tell by its wonderful illustrations alone just what a real Chinchilla should be. Address
Baggerly’s Blue Ribbon Flemish Giants
1st, Sr. Gray Buck; 1st. Sr. Gray Doe; 1st, Sr. Steel Gray; 1st, Sr. Steel Doe: 1st, Sr. Black Doe; 1st. 6 to 8 Steel Doe: 1st, 6 to 8 White Flemish Doe; Class of 12. Heaviest Rabbit in the Show. 16 lbs. EVERY RABBIT ENTERED WON FIRST at the Last State Fair. 1925. WHERE QUALITY COUNTS.
All Stock Free from Any Disqualifications. Any Stock not Satisfactory can be Returned at My Expense and Money Promptly Refunded.
3024 Calumet Chicago, III.
$50.00 REWARD
The Famous Flemish Rabbitry
Hares & Rabbits Supply Co.
To any one in the United States or Canada who has not received a square deal from the Hares and Rabbits Supply Co. We have been shipping Rabbits and Rabbit Supplies to all parts of America and Canada. and to Germany. England, Spain. France, China, Czecho-Slovakia, Mexico, Cuba and Hawaiian Islands for the last 13 years, and if our Rabbits and Supplies didn’t MAKE GOOD WE DID. We are proud of this record. We are still in business and ready to serve you in the future as in the past. Send for our catalogue and interesting proposition to agents.

Guide Book and Standard, 1926 (2024)
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